G60

that was the same car eh?! i remember your post... thought wow that thing will look good. its coming along well.

i think its one of the best highly modded rados i've seen. like mentioned the arches are a little much, but all the new designs coming out have arches much larger than required for performance, they are justified with their good looks (and they do look good on a lot of em) so i can understand the huge arches. would have been nice to keep the spoiler.. especially now that its rear drive. really like the early bonnet! :lol: anyone have more pics/info or a link?

clean install. nice.

oh cmon s**** isnt swearing you ******. :D ya, will be hard.. but it happens. let me know if you come across one, i need a few bits.. and i'll do the same. cheers. ****mod-edit****swearing-vr6storm

..that's when it'll all be worth it ant! :lol: 8)

canadian spec G60s are the same as european spec except we still get the s**** headlights and we have side markers in the front bumper like the US spec. ..so we get the manual belts, under-dash shelves... your best bet is to try to find someone parting a C in canada and get the manual belt conversion parts from him. ****MOD EDIT****-swearing-vr6storm-you were doing so well too lanny :wink:

you wildman, that should be a BLAST. make sure you build that motor strong! :lol:

the 20v head has a LOT of potential. however, i think you'll find that the difference between 5 valves per cylinder in the 20v vs. the 4v/cyl of the 3.2L 24v VR6 is not enough to warrant sticking with the 20v if ultimate power is the goal. the extra valve is nice but the extra displacement of the 3.2L vs. the 1.8L more than makes up for it... almost double the displacement! if you're going for a dyno or drag queen car and money is no object it has to be 24v VR6 T ... or maybe two, stick another in the back seat while you're at it! :lol: 1000whp AWD corrado??? that's my pick! :shock: :lol:

sorry, car's apart... no starting for meee! :? do you have a cam? do you have a boost gauge? what is your timing like? you can get a rough idea if you have vac leaks or not by seeing what your vacuum is like at idle... but this can be affected by cam and timing. stock motor should be around 17-18... mine's 11 but a) i have a cam b) my timing needs to be reset c) fairly positive i have a vac leak. however, 11 is reasonable for a car with a cam so who knows. guess i'll find out as i keep pulling it apart.

howdy texan. they're all brits on here, they all have the euro lights.. but don't try to get one of them to ship a set to you, they drive on the wrong side of the road over there, headlight pattern is different from ours. lights are lookin good. i plan to do the same.. i also have my indicators in that location. opened up the stock indicator holes for cold air feed.

i said 200 to the wheels kev, everyone who posted before me said 200 at the crank which is really only about 180 at the wheels is it not? i agree, you need to harness the power. my main concern is if the drivetrain will hold up passed 200whp... you start passing the 200 barrier and things start breaking rather quickly.. which is the difference between our cars and a great number of RWD cars... their drivelines are generally far beefier as a rule, being RWD, and as a result the drivelines can usually handle more power without modification.

^ nice one joe. everyone is always stumped by those two hidden ones!

ya i did that one too a few months ago... i messed around with some wiring back there and i must have bumped it too much... noticable power loss for sure. pulled the hose, it was mushy on the manifold end. replaced it (exactly 1 meter please) and the power came back. this hose is critical. if you still have the carbon cannister, yank that shit off of there and toss it in the garbage. there's 1-2psi right there... and now you can use the carbon cannister hole for a cold air intake feed.

no idea. never checked. but those are all likely candidates for a leak. a vac leak is a vac leak. either you've got it or ya don't. after 10-13 years the vac lines in our cars are turning to shite... time to replace.

mocal! mocal. did you try mocal?

with the money you save buying a G60 vs. a comparable VR6, you can put that cash into mods and the G60 will be quicker than the VR. if you want a bone stock corrado that you never modify, yes, the VR is quicker. but spend about $500 on a chip, pulley, FPR, maybe a cam/exhaust and the G60 is quicker. given that VR's tend to be a couple thousand more than G60, cost more to operate, and more to upgrade to the ~200whp mark, i know which one i would pick! oh wait... i did pick. G60 every time. :)

vac line to brake booster, vac line to gauges, carbon cannister, little hose from intake mani to ISV.. all good places to start

i know of some G60's over here that run 13s... stock gearbox. limited slip diff.. i'd say 200whp is about as much as you could want in a FWD car.. 200 to the wheels, not bhp. you just need to control wheelspin in lower gears and a limited slip diff helps a lot. any more power then that and you need to think about syncro.. although i've heard that the syncro system gets a little flaky when you put a lot of power through it so its really a toss up. of course i've never put a syncro system in a corrado so i don't really know. :lol: bottom line.. a 2.9L or 3.2L (or anything in between) VR has more sheer displacement than 1.8L or even a bored out 20v to 2L. more power potential. if money is no object you WILL get more power from the VR lump, obviously. but, as mentioned, the 20vT is a newer design, comes with a turbo (over here anyway, we don't have NA 20v's) and vs. a VR6T i would imagine it would be a far more streetable car. just depends what you want... insane speed or a car to drive around like a sane person. :lol: you better believe if i had a wad of bills burnin a hole in my pocket i'd give a 3.2L VR6T a chance as straight-line track warrior... (even though I'm not a fan of the VR6)... the sheer displacement alone gives it more potential than anything else vdub makes... (that will fit in a corrado, W8/W12 don't count!!). if i was going for a high-power track car (for the twisties) i'd go with an audi 5-cyl turbo...

ant you sick fuck :lol:

you mean with her head behind the wheel of your C eh?? hahaa :lol:

What bug? :lol: that blond on the right is dead sexy.. and looks like she'd be fun in the sack!

some people have made them. could do it in fiberglass.. there isnt any OE cover that fits the C, no.. too bad isnt it.

girls - to do the dishes girls - to clean up my room girls - to do the laundry girls - and in the bathroom girls - that's all I really want is girls two at a time - i want girls with new wave hairdos - i want girls i ought to whip out my - girls, girls, girls, girls, girls! ahem. someone posted wanted pics of girls and corrados... here they be to temporarily satisfy both your corrado fetish and boobie fetish. enjoy. my favourite! caution: to avoid nausea, direct your eyes away from the bug...

i was quoted around $2500cdn but thats with me doing a lot of the prep. i'm also going to pay cash so i doubt i'll end up dropping more than $2000-2500 even after all the smoothing i want done. i'm talking bare metal, proper smoothing (welded, not bondo), interior gutted/painted, engine gutted/painted, wheel wells gutted/painted, and full protective spray underneith. if you're shorter on the cash side, with a little more time, strip it yourself... if you're tight for time but have money to burn, get them to do it all. the price you were quoted seems steep, but i'm cheap and i like to do things myself and deal with friends who give me deals :lol:

looks very nice. ive heard of people DIYing this job... but those results look better than others i've seen. i have aftermarket drilled disks on my G60.. been on them 2yrs since i bought the car. they could be replaced now, but they've held up a LONG time. no warping/cracking and they don't seem to fade at all.