aide

yeh Sam will take that thanks, PM me your paypal addy. sorry SJ make sense to combine postage on the badge.

any joy chaps :)

you can get the small refils, like the size of a 3l coke bottle, yeh they're £15 a pop but I'm only on my second having welded quite a lot, i'll get a proper full size bottle when i start making gates :) kev you're completely right its supposed to be a 15A socket for the 151te, but if you're doing low amps at low frequency then a 13a plug carries the power fine...... so far anyway

some old boys swear by stick welding for panel work, but then they've been welding a long time so have the skills to handle it with low enough amps and smaller electrodes, agree mig is much easier to get started on panels, i wouldn't try it with a stick thats for sure!

considered these before and would love to see proven gains using phenolic spacers, and not just "oh the manifold feels cooler to the touch", proper back to back rolling road tests. is there any tests like that anywhere?

i bought a clarke te151 turbo which is a mig welder and probs nearer £300, really easy to pick up mig welding, but arc welding with a stick is a whole lot trickier to master. if you're going to be an occassional welder, i'd recomend mig, but give it enough time and you'd master arc too, horses for courses. go onto mig welding forums as they have loads of tips on what to look for in the different types of welder. its the best tool i've bought in ages, i bought it to repair round my filler cap, and i've used it too do loads of bodywork stuff, a couple of recaro seat bases and repaired the wifes exhaust all of which i would have had to pay £000's to someone else to do without it. its seriously satisfying melting bits of metal together too lol you'll need a further £50 for a set of decent gauntlet gloves and an auto dimming helmet too.

cheers lads, appreciate it.

looking a few bits as follows please; - drivers side rubber door seal, the upper one that runs round the window frame and which the door closes on - long shot... the drivers side door/ window seal, the horizontal one with a felt inner face, unbent! - 2 tiny plastic surrounds that go round the door lock pins and sit in the door panel - one of the plastic lock pins that screws onto the thread - rear vw badge - plastic covers for the tailgate hinges, both sides - parcel shelf strap - handbrake trim, not the handle the plastic one. - vr6 dipstick In reusable condition please :)

good job. must get round to doing mine this summer, does it make a big difference to lightening the interior, and how long did it take you start to finish?

i just used copper slip on the carrier sliding pins, ready to be shot down but didn't believe there was anything special required when rebuilding them. use a football pump and knackered hose to eject the piston by the way.

I'll take these, let me know your pay pal details cheers.

wow. really impressive work, probably a bit late now, but a solution called vactan does a good job of converting rust that cannot be removed. keep the pics coming.

Well worth getting them done properly, I used a guy of eBay who I'm guessing is same as Kev posted above as he was called mr injector too, flow tested them before and after, new orings and cleaned, and turned them around in a few days. I got a 30% flow improvement on mine, pretty good I thought.

welcome to the forum anne :)

found this in a rush so double check its the correct part for you, i couldn't find the old supplier, but seems GSF are selling them online now. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Pressure-Regulator-Replaces-ATE-type-VW-without-ABS-/280823723525?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item416265f605

even if you find one on a rado or early golf, you'll be lucky if it hasn't seized onto the beam bracket and needs cutting off which is tricky to do without wrecking it. you can buy the original ate item of ebay.

your rocco sends me looking for a :drool: smilie every time!

respect your have a go attitude mate, you just get stuck right on in there :thumbleft: look forward to seeing this develop.

brave attempt, but its really not up to you. corrados choose us, not the other way round :)

not rudi the nasty dinosaur out of ice age 3 then :)

deox-c is a rust dissolver/ remover, it doesn't treat rust, its more suited to soaking rust from parts and the solution works a treat, but the gell isn't great. i'm a convert to 'vactan' rust treatment, basically remove as much as rust as possible with wire brush then paint it on affected part. both the army and panel van boys use it, you can even use a straw to blow it into seams.

nice looking set of motors there, welcome along.

i had to buy my replacement pump from VW, around £80 from memory, as couldn't find the correct type from the usual GSF, EPC etc you could try ford as they used the vr6 in the galaxy.

Welcome along :)

pray you don't find any; - remove the wire from the rubber seal around the filler neck and bodywork, remove the rubber seal with the filler cap off - remove boot carpet, remove circular plate, diconnect pipework and connector to in tank pump - support the tank and progressivel release/ remove the 3nr straps, 1 bolt shoulders two strap ends - you'll need to diconnect one end of the breather pipe as it is threaded through its own hole in the bodywork - can't remember if you have to remove the osr tyre, probably. you may as well replace all the pipe clamps and any flexible pipework whilst you're doing the job, they decay over time.