aide

i'll take the dipstick please.

there's 264 cams too if you like being different :)

welcome back, you're making good progress already :)

yes you can but you need more than VAG-com, check our the DIY vr6 remap thread in the engine bay section.

was i correct in my diagnosis then? :)

as above the brown thermotime sensor allows the cold start valve to function for a preset time, i believe its rated at 50degs/ 20secs. i.e. it functions only for 20secs max and only if the engine temp is under 50degs. its basically an automatic choke for fuel metering. when cranking and if the above conditions are met the cold start injector should receive 12volts, check its delivering fuel after that. the WUR controls a plunger on the metering head, and in turn the fuel system pressure. its heated in two ways, firstly by a heating element through the two wires, secondly by the transmitted temp of the block, it uses both to ensure system pressure is low (i.e. leaner) when the engine is restarted warm. its basically an equivalent of modern ECU emissions control, only mechanical. symptoms vary depending upon failure. bear in mind continuous over fuelling would lead to a progressively worsening idle from cold to warm, faulty WUR could lead to progessively better or progressively worse running cold to warm, yours seems sudden so i don't think it would be either of these. the idle switch triggers the ISV, even if the ISV is buzzing it may not be metering air efficiently as it opens/ closes so many times per second that 1 cycle failure/ sticking in 20 could have an effect. the fact it idles fine when warm suggests its okay anyway. there is a further possibility which is the auxillary air valve, and this would be my hunch, its located near the airbox, its a disc with a sensor plug and two small bore plastic pipes. this valve allows air to bypass the throttle body butterfly during warm up, like the WUR its contains an electric heating element which leans off the air supply as the element is heated. you can test it by chucking it in the freezer and looking through it. cold = open and warm = closed. check its getting power when cold, it shouldn't receive any power when warm, if its not getting power it could be a sensor issue.

amazing, i want one!

you're the man Tom, looks like a cracking wee car now.

the arm thingy span round and smashed the windscreen (Which I had replaced today) on seeing the smashed glass, I became enraged and yanked on my handbrake, and it came off in my hand never seen this thread before, and that's the funniest post i've read in ages, realise its your misfortune but you tell it well :) keep your head up, i got rescued by the AA last week!

there's a mechanical winder on the sunroof motor/ gear Ben in case it fails open, just remove the cover and wind it shut.

don't think theres a sequence as such, you just need to tighten them all progressively so you don't stress the cam too much. torque is somethink like 15lb so its a small wrench job, but tbh i go more by 'feel' for cam caps, firm without being over tight - that probably doesn't help at all does it! edit - i was wrong then lol

the system is rather basic, general rule is if the light comes on and dissapears before moving, then the sensor check has been completed and all is okay, so assume its a mechanical issue, e.g. it senses the front wheels moving but not others. i'd check the gap between sensor and abs ring on the front, and also on the rears, unfortunately the rear check requires the calipers and disk to be removed. i just cleared an identical fault, it would appear at 15mph and above, it was an issue with the rear bearing seal interfering with the signal.

does it come on after you start to drive, or after a few minutes even when still?

that is high for oil. the water/ oil coolers tend to gum up with age and aren't great to begin with anyway, pumps are pretty solid but can of course wear but can be checked with the sump off for backwash. plenty of threads on here about vr temps, consensus is generally 90 - 100 ish average driving, more in standstill traffic or caning it, i'd get uncomfortable anything at 110+ my first vr i bought had temps of 118, fitted a mocal cooler and they dropped by 22degs plus, great bit of kit.

for a moment i thought it might have been my second valver, i sold it to a guy in newquay, different green and reg tho!

good stuff and welcome along, don't be shy and get some pics up - we always like to see rado's getting rescued!

right there with you on that statement! good progress, this will look great once its done.

Cheers for comments, the pictures hide the fact the paintwork needs a lot more rubbing down and polishing, but its getting there slowly, I'm even getting round to finishing the refurb on those vento cups you sold me Karl - only two years after I bought them :)

wham bham and ordered, liking the speed this has moved at, no messing about!

Really nice, you have to be one of the longest terms of ownership of the same vehicle!

been raised befroe and fairly sure its an MOT fail. if it is supposed to have ABS, it should to be working i'm afraid.

MOT inspector's verdict.... "she's a tight wee thing, so much so i had to take her for a quick spin. wish it was mine" lol Had one advisory on handbrake imbalance, it was 38% and they fail at 40% - for anyone who doesn't know, Northern Ireland MOT's are uncompromising government run inspections in comparison to rest of UK, so chuffed it got through! Sorted an intermittent ABS issue at the weekend on the rears, pleased to say rear hubs are still looking like new after a few thousand miles. [ATTACH=CONFIG]50140[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]50141[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]50142[/ATTACH]

You should have payment, cheers for sorting.

front mount only please, i only replaced the rear with oem 3 months ago.

another one who'd keep it standard, to my mind any additional induction 'noise' means induction pulses are being lost to air and cylinder charging isn't being optimised.