jimpy66

Thanks, but now got one from stueyb........

I'm looking for the front section of the plastic tunnel for a late VR (dont know if they were ever any different- anyone know?) Its the section that the gear lever gaiter assembly sits on. I dont need the gaiter and its plastic frame, though I'll take it all if need be. I already have the handbrake and rear section tunnel. Any colour will do as I'm wrapping it in leather. ooerr :grin:

Could be all the above, but certainly sounds like classic ISV symtoms- see here for details- viewtopic.php?f=1&t=100703

And with seats back in car- happy result :D 30012011656.jpg[/attachment:3ipcltiq]

Edit- on the second light I managed to spring off both ball joints- they're brass, far left and right in the cowl and click into the white widgits, but the force needed is also just about enough to break everything..... you've been warned :eek: 29012011655.jpg[/attachment:5i5soz85]

Thanks chaps- I'll maybe give Mr Simonez a go first and see how it goes...

The cream headlining is a bit grubby but worst of all has a lingering stink of nicotine from past owners- anyone know what works best to clean?

I've got a set of Sonar lights and they look great (IMO) but are only available for LH drive- therefore will fail an mot here. When Sonar say they're not convertible to RH drive, it's not an idle threat- it can be done, but it's nearly impossible to do without wrecking them. I couldn't find any real details on this, so here's some photos for the brave man who wants to risk all........ First you've got to heat em up to soften the glued lenses.. stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdf29012011644.jpg[/attachment:1j2e37gr] Then gingerly prise them off- took me twenty minutes to take off one- even at this point on the photo, it wouldn't just come off- another five minutes of easing needed Corrado92.pdf29012011645.jpg[/attachment:1j2e37gr] Then comes the flipping hard bit- you need to remove the internal assembly from the housing and it's just not designed to come back out. passat climatronic wiring diags.pdf29012011648.jpg[/attachment:1j2e37gr] Take out the rubber bung from the hole shown above then prise off that white hook you can see- if you break this, its all over :pukeright: climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdf29012011647.jpg[/attachment:1j2e37gr] Now you have to try and slide the lens assembly fascia (with the slot shown above) off that white widget. Mine was glued on and it was only luck that the glue gave way first. Be warned that the fascia is made of very brittle high-temp plastic and just wants to desintegrate. This is the easy end :pukeleft: 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf29012011652.jpg[/attachment:1j2e37gr] The lens assembly will now be held only at the other end with the same slot/widget fastening, but this time you cannot 'slide' it off- it has a little inaccessible screw there to stop you. Instead you have to prise off the ball joint behind. The other end was also a ball joint, but there is no access to prise it off. 29012011653.jpg[/attachment:1j2e37gr] Dismantle the lens holder and you'll see the metal shade that cuts the light from opposing traffic- just unfasten it and turn it over. Because of the lens, its upside down and the 'wrong' way about anyway, so if in doubt, stick a torch in and point it at a wall. Hope that helps- I wish someone had done this for me. Best of luck though if you try it :turn-l:

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Meant to add- the dye is recommended as spray on for best results, but I prefer to rub it on with a cloth- lets you get it right into the worn bits without just smothering everything with a heavy spray- but depends how bad the leather is- probably if the wear is only slight, spray would be best. I'll make a point of posting photos again after some use to show how it all stands up to long term wear. That's the one thing you can never find anywhere. I'm also trying the resin dye on spare plastics- I reckon that this would work on a well prepared dash- not everyone's taste, but will be interesting experiment.

Been desperate to get this done- the leather is overall in good nick for 15 years, but stained, cracked finish letting the car down badly. stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdf28012011641.jpg[/attachment:1lat7wva]Corrado92.pdf28012011637.jpg[/attachment:1lat7wva] Bought colour matched stain from 'Gliptons', though Furniture Clinic also do it (Gliptons already had Corrado shade on file) The most important thing is preparation- no surprises there. You can read the entire process on their websites, but the gist is: Clean, soften, clean, dye. Just like paint, lots of thin coats are much better than thick ones. To give the matt finish I prefer, I avoid the gloss additive and apply the last coat by dabbing it on with a sponge. passat climatronic wiring diags.pdf28012011639.jpg[/attachment:1lat7wva] I prefer not filling the cracks (you can get leather fillers) as long term they just crack again, and there's no way of stopping the leather folding in its own places. climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdf28012011632.jpg[/attachment:1lat7wva] End result is fantastic really, they don't look 'new' unless you also replace the foam padding, but they do look as if they've been incredibly well cared for. Problem area is always the drivers bolsters- in this case it's worn away at the edge just a little so although the colour is perfect, you can see some missing stitching and wear on the piping. That would mean a re-stitch- more skill than I've got. 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf28012011640.jpg[/attachment:1lat7wva] Gear lever gaiter was horrible- but refurb took all of three hours to come up brand new. 28012011642.jpg[/attachment:1lat7wva] The process can't be rushed- once you've built up the finish over a couple of days, it needs at least a couple of days to toughen up and I think about a week to fully harden- they say don't use for 24 hours after treatment, but longer is definitely better. For all the hype, the 'traditional dye' is a water-based resin stain/paint (as far as I can tell) and given the difficulty of getting it off my fingers, it has impressive adhesion qualities! You can apply it to vinyl in low abrasion areas too, as long as the preparation is thoroughly done. Next step is leather tunnel courtesy of Badgerman, then contemplating leather dash. Obsession now taken firm hold................ :)

Bosch one £100+vat new............

Me too please- just Pm me payment details

Under the rear ignition lead carrier engine cover to the inboard side of the throttle body. Cover needs to be removed to access. Effectively yes. But with VCDS, you don't need to disassemble anything other than the gear shift cover panel in the centre console to plug into the diagnostics socket. . If dirt and deposits are old and hard (bearing in mind that air from the crankcase breather goes through this) 'exercising' it will give only a temp fix- only a thorough clean will exclude this problem

I found that the only way I could get it spotless was to dip some cotton buds in solvent and gently 'scrub' the valve clean. The little revolving cylinder had to be rotated by hand and held in the 'open' position so I could clean all the areas. The odd thing is that mine felt as if it was revolving freely without any of this, but once it was cleaned, the idling/cutting out was cured, so I have nothing else to attribute it to other than it must have been sticking a little.

Do you think it's faster than the Police Capri 2.8? :lol: :lol: :lol:

Help ma bob! Priced lupo wiper arms through a trade friend- after discount almost £90+vat :shock: :shock: :shock: I thought they were 'pennies'!!- and that doesn't include the blades :eek: Maybe I'll just not bother :( Anyone else priced recently?

It's usually caused by the Idle control valve (ICV). It's a little bypass arrangement to allow enough air though to let the engine idle but it's a mechanical device and gets worn/dirty- strip it out and clean very carefully with cotton bud/nail polish remover (but make sure its dry before you put it back on. In old age, it gets beyond repair, in which case this may be temp fix only. If replacing, best avoid cheap ones- stick to bosch, but it's around £100

At 6'3" he'd weigh almost as much as the car- no wonder it went off the road. If he'd just had lunch, it was probably overloaded

They might have been light, but they WERE NOT made of wood- thats a wicked lie :grin:

Yep- says it all. I had two- a white mk1 E666WCS and a miami blue mk2 G808ESJ. What a blast they were to drive. All that piffle about flawed handling- the rear steering bushes helped make the car handle like nothing else on the road- the reason it was so well liked was that no talent whatsover was needed to drive it flat out on winding B roads- it gave you a connection with the road that only Lotus has managed to replicate since. That's a clue- light, light light! Sadly missed. BUT I made the mistake of driving one again recently- like they say- never go back (better in the memory)! Car magazine famously did a test with one against a Lotus Esprit turbo (maybe not the worlds finest supercar) and came up with the same conclusion- ultimately the Lotus was faster, but only with supreme effort and concentration. The 205 on the other hand felt as if it wasn't even trying. I'll be crying next......... :(

Droning was because rear N/S caliper loose- tightened up bolts and drone gone. So has the flippin' rattle that I blamed on my exhaust- was on the verge of selling the Milltech and ordering OEM. What a complete plonker I'd have felt like once I put a new exhaust on and rattle still there!!

Thank ****** for that! :grin: :grin: :grin:

Doh! It's the Calipers...stupid! Spent couple hours last night faffing with exhaust mounts, joints etc, no better. Went to local custom exhaust place and begged them to look at it (since they didn't supply) and they adjusted the hangers on the exhaust to lower it a few mm. No better. Took it to my friendly mechanic who tweaked it some more- bad as ever. Finally someone twigged- its NOT THE EXHAUST! What a bunch of morons I/we all are!! Took off rear n/s wheel- caliper bolts loose. Problem solved

Go for it- chassis WVWZZZ50ZSK003553