jimpy66

I've got H & R's, and I can tell you that comfort is not a word I'd use. Better than cheap coilovers because at least H & R make spring rates to suit each variant, so on flat road/track they are very good, but on B roads/irregular surface, they're just not pliant enough- the inevitable result of reduced spring travel.

Five days later, car still starts every time, so we'll call that a cure- many thanks

Ah- so I take it just push lugs from behind then and squeeze them out- great thanks

Thanks- I saw the tabs behind but couldn't tell if they simply located the badge or whether they were a tight squeeze into the holes. I guess then that they are just locators and the badge is held with the glue- the floss/fishing line is a good tip.

I need to remove and refinish the VR6 , Corrado and VW badges on the rear- can this be done without breaking the tabs? I've had a try at it but couldn't get any movement without it looking as if they'd break- any tips?

I've clipped off a sample from the back of a door card to let them identify, so I'll let you know once it comes- and the noise is just about the only reason I bought it :luvlove:

Green, cream leather. Seats need refurb- I've ordered funiture clinic pack- be near perfect once I'm finished with them. Going in next week to take off coilovers and fit oem springs/struts too. Its an age thing.....

I've left 40 behind and can't see 50 yet so here's my tale of cars- brace yourself- you might not have heard of them......... Morris Marina pickup- 45 yes 45 bhp VW Caddy pickup, petrol (almost best fun ever had) Astra Mk1 GTE red (just magic- there never has been a better seat than a Recaro) Astra Mk1 GTE black 205 GTi white (giant killer- could hold out against anything on a B road) 205 GTi miami blue ditto 405 MI16 Ming blue (what an engine!) 306 S16 diablo (engine rubbish compared to 405) Golf Mk3 TDi110 (marriage caused a decline) 406 1.8 (further decline) MB Vito van 110CDi (total collapse of values) A3 1.8T recovery at last- great engine 306 S16 blue (you know how they say you should never go back.....) Golf Mk4 TDi130 silver torque torque torque- and theres' more cornering ability on a banana skin Volvo S60 D5 sport- you can laugh, but the standard sound of that engine is just tremendous :roll: Audi TT 225 good, but not as good as it should be... BMW X3 (for the school run- its a jungle out there!) Astravan 19CDti 200PS (mine- faster than all the above- complete nutjob) and now :clap: Corrado VR6 Storm :clap:

Ha Ha- if you've looked to buy a Corrado before you'll know that 95% of adverts start 'Classic Corrado- completely original and unmolested' Followed by- Lowered, polybushed, bucket seats, strut braces, snap off Momo, boost valve upgrade, superchipped, new wings, bonnet, air scoop, tints, porsche wheels, 50000mm brakes, ten pot calipers...... and then the top ten favourite- K & N! Sound familiar?

Can I have a 3-relay loom for a '95 VR. Don't need OEM connectors! PM me with payment details- paypal or whatever suits thanks.

Yep- I removed relay 109, cleaned terminals and refitted, took the factory immobiliser connector off and on a few times (in dash just behind/below headlight switch), a little WD40 to all these connectors and car now starts first time every time. That's only after one day, but previously it was failing about 1 in 3 times. I'll add to this in future if it changes, but thanks for help.

Thanks- I'll post update once I've checked these out.

Can someone tell me what the difference means between the two rocker cover styles- see photos. One is rectangular, other has 'cut-away' corner at oil filler. Was this engines after a certain date?

Anyone had this problem? Problem mostly when engine warm though rarely on cold start also. Engine turns over, fires strongly for a second then dies. Turn it over again, engine fires properly for a second, two seconds at most and then dies. This happens typically four or five times, then engine starts properly and runs faultlessly thereafter. Further problem has now developed that engine often dies on the road when pulling up to junction and it drops to idle speed. May not be connected to first problem but I plan to change idle sensor as it's pretty corroded and pitted and probably the original item with 130k. Any advice/suggestions appreciated