jedi-knight83

true...but trouble is it will always look to high...might ride nice...but looks naff IMO. VW knew this themselves as in the final storm publicity posters they lowered the rear of the car as it looked better :roll:

hey, im gonna have some vr6 calipers and carriers and hoses (and pads) for sale soon...i have been told they are the same as g60 suff and if you have the g60 discs already it will be an easy swap

bonnet doesnt sit level....you not worried about that then? the standard ride it is far to high...you should have lowered it my friend... glad its back though :lol:

Back in the day....lol.. :lol: ..your all so old!! the plastic pipe idea sounds great though :lol:

basslink is cheap, chearfull and sounds great...you can hear mine when we meet up... i dont have 6x9's and my system sounds fine but i guess they would add a bit more mid range

basslink is cool...such a osrted peice of kit... as kev says..work out if its the eadunit or the basslink. try running other cables down the car to see if the current ones have worn through

IIRC then your entitled to get it fixed where you want as long as you can justify it...i.e you prob couldnt get away with taking it to prosche :roll: the insurance company HAVE to repair until your happy though...although now it has been done at one place i think your stuck taking it back to there

no its a proper mount...you can tell as one of the guys unscrewed it from the car at the end of the vid.....and would you duck tape your digi cam to the side of a car :roll:

where did you get the external camera mount?

what happened?

samm_cvr6, also...try doing an ecu reset once the engine is warm (disconnect the battery for 20mins) and then take it for a run (again while engine is still warm) ...i was told that should help MPG ?? if you use a fuel addetive or optimax for that matter you may see a reduced MPG to start but this is due to blocked injectors being partly cleaned and allowing more fuel through...again an ecu reset should help this. Henny, still thinking of coming to the RR day? :wink:

i wont touch the pedal of ignition until the new calipers and hoses are on, then hopefully no air will have back tracked into the pump etc

hi and welcome. best to stick to VW synta silver...i tried to suggest other stuff but everyone told me synta was the best. its fully synthetic and 10w40 weight. use a mann oil fiter. £8 ish from GSF car parts. there is a meet up for a rolling road day in colchester area soon, is that near you?

very cool video!! what was the sound track? i did a similar thing with my crx but the final file was 90 MB and i dont know where to host it :lol: i'll be doing one of my corrado when its finished so i'll try and make it smaller and ask andi to host it on fast purple so what was up with the engine...all that steam...is it ok now?

feck...so it does...i guess the fluid will just drainout until eventually there is air in the abs pump :mad:

im not fussed about fluid on the floor to be honest and wouldnt that cause air to be sucked into the abs pump?

so is it best to suck out all the old brake fluid from the reservoir and thenput new stuff in before doing any pumping and bleeding? that sounds logical to me anyway Supercharged, i'll leave to ignition on to be on the safe side.....seeing as most ppl say to have it on and i doubt it will have an adverse effect even if it is on.

back out into the reservoir where you can schringe it out?....i think i get it although dont like the sound of it

ok, thanks kangarooboy, im thinking that just topping up sounds easier and im sure that way will get most of the old fluid out anyway i will be changing callipers at the same time though so i guess there will be alot more air to pump through before i see fluid but it souldnt be a problem im not gonna touch the abs pump...just gonna leave ignition one throughout still a bit unsure about the clutch...open nipple / close nipple etc...sounds a bit fiddley! may just leave that as i dont want to intorduce air by me cocking it up :roll:

so this e-z bleed thing actually sucks the old fluid out?

ok, where is the bleed nipple for that please? do the same...pump clutch untill new fluid flows through?

sure thing dinkus, im just finalising the purchase of my 288 setup and when i get the parts i'll give it all a go and yes i'll do a simlar write up to last time. thanks Henny, just ignition or engine running? will i need to do the clutch aswell if im changing the fluid?

ok thanks...sounds easy enough and much easier then faffing arounf with bleeding abs pumps and such like.. would it matter if im chaging the callipers?? obviously the new ones will be empty so its just a case of bleeding all the air out isnt it?

so you didnt bleed it dry first? just bled each caliper one at a time and kept topping up the reservoir with new fluid? how do you know when new fluid is coming through the caliper? is it a different colour? oh and was the ignition / engine on? ta

Right...im not after a discussion on types of brakes and brake fluid etc as it has been done a million times before and i know the bits i want... BUT...i havent been able to find a decent explanation on how to change the fluid in the complete system and then bleed it all successfully so i wondered if i could have some help. I want to drain the complete system of all the old fluid and replace with new stuff with a different dot rating so i guess i need to make sure that all the old stuff is definately out before filling with new as i guess its not a good idea to mix. So.... How do i drain the system of all old fluid? How to i fill the system with new fluid (just poor into the reservoir under the bonnet??) How do i bleed the system in the right order (remembering i have ABS) thank you :)