VW_OwneR_85

maybe replace the oil temp sender, it might be telling you porky pies

corrado sunday :) spent a couple of hours on it today, new bearings and disc's turned up last week, I used a 30mm socket {shaved slightly using a drill and sand paper} to drift the first bearing race in, then to get the other race in I used a piece of 1 1/2" steel pipe, perfect fit! seeing as my banded steel wheel has no center I can fit the disc and spin it and adjust as required through the wheel :) awaiting final adjustment in a few days time before I fit the grease cap back {cotter pin has been fitted this just an early pic before wheel went on ;)} also cleaned up the old pads using sand paper to remove the old glazeing,, also found out why my sunroof is leaking!! the plastic tray is leaking through a join of some sort! bugger!

mines early 93 and had a red vr badge with a silver corrado badge,

nice, low miles then? surprised you haven't already done it ;)

cheers aide, prety much got the exterior exactley how i want it just need to sort out a nice black leather interior...

my car is officialy insured with the new engine! :) engineers report was done a few weeks back so im realy chuffed about that going well, just need to find the engine number so i can declare that on the log book, iv since disconnected the wire i put in for the vss as for some unknown reason its giving my throttle pedal an intermittent fault which another forum member also had from this, basicly i can drive the car 40min straight no problem but if i stop off some where for 30mins or so then when i start up and move 5meters the throttle pedal doesnt work! i have to switch off and back on again! and its like the for the rest of the journey home , upon starting the next day its fine for a straight journey until i have to stop off, i can live with being limited to 5.5k revs for now , anyway got new rear discs and bearings to go on , this time around useing genuine parts!! cheap discs warped! so i get an annoying squeek once the disc n pads have warmed up!

ah no way makes sense , the cars should of come with both grills , rather then a warning triangle it should of been the summer/winter grill!!!!!!

ah that would make sense about the colder climate , kinda like the oil breather pipe with the blank plug,

over here its prety much £10 a wheel,

iv noticed that the top two slats on a genuine vw corrado vr6 grill are actualy blanked off? is this right? seems abit silly to block out that much airflow ,

yep might aswell get rid , buyer to sort out and pay for pallet courier though, as i dont want the hassel of that, if the OP was local to me i would happily swap it all over at a fraction of the cost aswell..

its had work at the timeing chains before , no proof other then its quite quiet and theres blue sealant on the chain caseing, which is slightly leaking btw, you would want to re seal that and fit a new crank seal at the same time, easy job as its a bare engine with no gearbox attached, edit; im guessing the guides were replaced idk?, if your genuinley interested i will take photos sometime maybe this evening but seeing as its a bare engine you could allways get a timeing chain kit or swap yours over to it,

i have my old corrado vr6 engine that i removed for my 24v conversion , roughly 138k miles but ran fine with no issues , i can put it on a pallet for you if you want to arrange a courier you can have it for £100, would cost no more then £100 to get it to you, so you could have a an ABV vr6 for under £200 delivered,

i normaly do it so its just tight enough to remove the play out of the disc and then back a 1/4 turn , give it a spin by hand and double check for play giving it a good wobble to settle everything , any play take it out, drive it for 5mins then re check.... finger tight imo isnt accurate , the threads may have slight damage causeing the nut to feel tight when in fact its no where near,

right guys ! got a fault thats realy annoying me! so basicaly the only fault i actualy had from doing this conversion was for the vehicle speed signal, i connected that up from ecu plug pin 54 to w-1 on the fusebox and it was fine! i got full use of the rev range! where as before i was limited @5.5k revs , but it seems like a can go for a straight 40min drive no problem! but if i stop off some where for 30mins or so then when i move off, the throttle pedal is dead! i have to switch off and back on again! and its like that for the rest of the journey back home, now 20vtvw connected his vss up to w-1 and lost his throttle straight away! its wierd how i can drive mine perfect untill i have to stop off somewhere and start up again, i have scanned the ecu and it came up with 3 faults 16990 /p0606 ecm/pcm processor {that fault was logged twice} 18047/ p1639 pedal pos sensor 1+2 range/performance. i have since cut my vss wire back to how it was and its been fine for the first longish journey which i made 2 stops and its been fine! havent had a chance to drive it more, im going to replace relay 109 for the newer updated relay anyway , some 20vT conversions must of had this problem surely? , i guess most people that do this conversion throw it in to get re mapped which sorts these little niggles out ....btw the engine is running amazing! hot or cold or anything! i realy cannot fault how it runs! i can live with the 5.5k limit for now as where i live anything above and your asking for trouble but would be nice to have 0 fualts..

yea i wouldnt worry about that idd also still use them, going to be repalceing my cheap "warped" discs as soon as my new bearings arrive and im sure my stubs will look the same...

i dont mean to sound blunt but it will look s**** unless its more red then orange then maybe be ok , to prep them lights properly you need to mask them includeing the center strip , takes time , if it was me idd only want to prep these once, by the time you have wiped the paint off you could of applied a nice 2k clear coat to a nice red base and be done ;) dont forget to key the lights to 600grit,

imo that would look horrid, cant beat all red ;) , but not forgetting there is different shades of red available for this application if you step outside the box ,

putting my abv up forsale as its just sitting there gathering dust! its on roughly 138k miles ran fine before i removed it for converting to 24v , i only want £100 for it , expect a bare engine but it will come with a few other things such as sump ,crackpipe, injectors,inlet manifold, im based in guernsey in the channel islands , so if your close to weymouth, pool or portsmouth you could easily get a day trip over and collect it { via http://www.condorferries.co.uk/} or im more then happy to put it on a pallet but the buyer is to arrange that after payment has been made via paypal, thanks....,

when buying a used engine like that you must never belive what they say the mileage is unless they have solid evidence to back it up,

it doesnt matter what paint you have on your car , you have a solid colour not metalic so you have the choice of useing either a 2stage system a.k.a basecoat/clearcoat or a single stage 2k topcoat, the single stage is easier for the diy'er {the one i linked you}. Maybe someone in the paint industry can confirm this but all the older vw's iv seen {pre 1995 } with a solid colour have a single stage paint from the factory, it would make sense that your car has had paint work done by a bodyshop useing basecoat clearcoat , useing this is fine so is useing single stage the choice is yours ;) if you want to try useing basecoat/clearcoat then heres the stuff http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-2L-Solvent-Basecoat-Paint-VW-AUDI-LP3G-FLASH-RED-/300550664735?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item45fa37321f#ht_1307wt_1038 this needs to be mixed 1:1 with basecoat thinners, you have slow ,medium or fast thinners {the rate it evaporates} depending on what your doing, you will need to apply the clearcoat with in a certain time frame, the tech data sheets for that product will tell you exaclty how long you have , if you leave it longer then the set time then the basecoat cures hard and there will be no adhesion for the clearcaot to stick and it will peel in no time ;) this clearcoat kit is very good value , http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/U-Pol-2k-S-2080-Clearcoat-lacquer-kit-/280728466394?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item415cb873da#ht_1411wt_801

yea i got rightclick i can vouch for them too, all the wireing you need for it is behind the drivers side rear door card,

i know what you mean about warping/bowed wood but most of the timbers i have lying around are prety straight {if you put them on 2" edge not on the 4" side} but remember were not looking for mm accuracy here we just want to know which side is at fault so we can slowly adjust it then drive it to note its improvment or if its made it worse in which case reverse what you have done, were not actualy measureing anything off the timber its the actual driving thats telling us "more turns" or " reverse turns" you just need to know which side to start from , its taken about 5mm -8mm of track rod thread to change my steering from 11 to 11.55 clock , i can do a no hander and track straight so thats good enough for me not to pay a visit to get wheel alignment ;) ill make the final few track rod turns next time its jacked up...

i used that ebay link thing before {its no good} , my m8 brought it but in the end we just pulled the wheel bearing housing/hub out as far as it can and tightend down, done this the same for both sides, thing is all our cars are lowerd and this effects the camber, the lower your car goes the more negative camber you get anyway,theres only so much camber adjustment you can make, i think the only thing you can do is get your car on level ground and get them the same for bot sides useing a spirit level, now for tracking this method is ghetto but it worked a treat for me! and has actualy saved me from getting alinment, my car since i brought it allways wanted to turn right so driving in a straight line meant i had to hold the wheel at 11oclock , so logics telling me that a wheel or maybe both is turned right more then it should, with that i put the steering wheel in the straight position and then got the longest peice of 2x4" wood i could find was about 12ft long , smacked that against the front drivers side wheel and eyed it up against the body didnt look out of place so i went to the passenger side wheel and whhoooa! its damn obvious that this is the culprit!! so adjust this rod to bring the wheel straight "ish" and then test drive and make final adjustments as you see fit,