VW_OwneR_85

immo and immisions stuff in the ecu switched off, down pipe needs to be either modified or a 24v conversion DP brought, use your existing 02A vr gearbox as thats a direct fit with the mounts so you wont need that transmission it comes with, then your need to get the mk4 loom spliced with the ce2 corrado loom {thats the job you should get done first before you start stripping the front end of the car} and jobs a gooden, theres a thread stickyed at the top about this conversion , have a butchers.

so the problem you have is that one side on the rear sits lower then the other?, it could be as easy as replaceing the top mounts, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Corrado-2-9i-12v-VR6-92-95-REAR-TOP-STRUT-Mounting-Kit-RH-FSM5118-/260912596177?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3cbf9a44d1 jack it up and have a good look at the spring and its perch and basicly make sure it all looks healthy, check the other side to make sure sure both springs are the same , make, condition etc etc ,

" buy cheap buy twice" " you pay for what you get" those two sayings allways haunt me when ever i need to buy anything over £100 car related, is there anything wrong with the current dampers? if there still good and no signs of oil leakage, just replace the springs and top mounts, or if its just one side thats a little lower check the top mount, or do you want adjustable suspension so you can play with the ride hieght etc? i went with weitec hicon , £450.00 so there not expensive but there not on the cheap cheap scale,

i got new weitec shocks with new top mounts and bearings, also if it was a problem with either the springs/bearings it would make that noise when stationary steering full lock both ways, i did this the other day 10 times either way and it was silky smooth, mine only does it when crawling forward/backward on full lock like in a 3point turn, you know what,next time im out in the C im gona get myself into a big empty car park , and drive around on full lock! if its cv related then it should crack like an absolute biotch!

my rear wishbone bolts {on both wishbones }werent overaly tight, they were tight ish but maybe loose enough to cause a noise, havnet had a chance to drive it yet , when i heard the noise last it sounded like it came from towards the passenger side and it was a crack!! like metal clicking in and out ,so i was thinking maybe it could be the metal sleve that the wishbone bolt goes through twisting as it wasnt overaly tight? , i already replaced the outer cv joint on passenger side as the boot was split, so maybe ill do the inner aswell, if i stripped it down you think there would be signs of damage visible? but yea i too would be thinking cv joints as its full lock related and happens when on the move, i tryed going full lock either way stationary for about 10 times either way and i got no funny noises

perfectly good car ruiend! looks like its been through pimp my ride,

^ LOL dont hold back, but i kind of have to agree with you on that, Less is more , sometimes its better to just roll with plain n boaring, just found this on vortex prety much somes it up, corrado seats are mk2/mk3 right? http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4469162-DIY-mk4-seats-in-a-mk2

yea basicaly you got a {rough dimensions} 6mm high x 10mm wide bead of adhesive that runs around the whole perimeter of the window , theres a few ways of doing it, but basicly you need to cut that adhesive {lol obviously} if you remove the trim peices on the inside for the pillars and the headliner { the headliner trim peice at the front not actual headliner} your see the adhesive, what i did was i punctured/ sliced a hole through with a stanley knife from the inside , then i poked through a wire saw and had my friend on the outside on one end and myself on the other on the inside and we just went around the whole perimeter of the screen like that, with wire being flexible my friend just kept the wire saw away from my paint, {even though it didnt matter} heres some pics, its realy not that hard of a job , this lower section is a bugger to cut due to the angle and you got to pull up on the inside to clear the dash , but this pic will give you an idea of how the adhesive sits, the corners take awhile to cut aswell, bye bye rust! same rust on drivers side, car saved! heres the wire http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WINDSCREEN-GLASS-CUTTING-OUT-REMOVAL-WIRE-AND-HANDLES-/220694105279?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item336264ccbf this may do the job quicker tho http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WINDSHIELD-REMOVAL-TOOL-CAR-WINDOW-REMOVER-BONDED-WINDSCREEN-CUTTING-BOND-/280867377136?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item4165000ff0 allow 3 hours to do this, { edit 3 hours to remove screen not rust repair n paint lol}

prety sure thats the coolant distribution pipe , A.k.A Crack pipe, there known to get brittel over time and crack as there made from plastic, look at the pic in this link, you see theres a bung on the far left side, well that could be where its comming from, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/COOLANT-PIPE-NEW-VR6-GOLF-MK3-CORRADO-VENTO-PASSAT-TRANSPORTER-T4-2004-/390412277323?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5ae662964b

the only thing that you should worry about is paint damage from removal, which will lead to corrosion, so once the screens out just have a blady good nose about for surface rust or any paint damage where the old adhesive is/was , this needs to be sorted before the new screen is fitted, thing is if you werent there the fitters would just bond the screen back in anyway! hence why you get rust like this!! which in a few years time might mean that your cars going to the scrap heap because of some lazy Wxxxxxx!!! i dont know your situation or how you are with tools, but i would get it booked in to just have the screen removed and then you can clean up and re paint the areas if needed yourself, and basicaly have it fitted another day, any paint that is in the window channel you can do DIY as its all hidden by the rubber seals, but obviously you have the choice if you want to send it to a bodyshop, at the end of the day you know its done right.. or if you dont have any time to diy, book it straight into a bodyshop and have the screen removed on there premises and have them clean it up and repaint the channel for peice of mind ---------- Post added at 5:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 5:06 PM ---------- fla i have done this whole proccess of windscreen removal and re fitting DIY, so if you have any questions about doing it , just ask

i had a similar problem with mine last year, but the bolt sheared in half, had to drill it out and re tap it, worked out great in the end, its funny how i thought this job was gona be a fun easy job , how worng!! glad you got yours sorted, if any of you are gona try this , i would start to soak it in penetrateing fluid a week before you plan on working on it, smack it with a hammer couple of times, maybe even use a blow torch,

ok , what i would do is replace the interior for cloth, even if you have to buy a cloth interior, sell the leather interior seperate! and then sell the car complete, or try and sell it complete as is for the price you hope, if its gona get brought for peanuts you might aswell have the leather interior for yourself,

iv got this to look forward to, mine so needs it done, might be worth asking the mk3 guys on vr6 OC as its prety much the same thing,

dunno but when i had my bike frame powder coated, it chipped like crazy!! it is a very hard scratch resistant finish but seems very brittle and when it chipped it chipped!! would imagine stones being thrown up from the wheels would chip the hell out of it, dont know if that was because of the way it was done by the powder coater or thats just the way it is? the frame was sandblasted prior to being done,

a couple of reasons, Because they look cool!! there a alot rarer to see on todays roads, VR6!! and i wanted a project car so i wouldnt get board of just driveing it from A to B , did i say VR6?!!! prety much sums it up for moi!

when my vr had idle/running problems it was down to the MAF, the connection plug was flooded with water!!! might be worth checking yours or giveing the sensor a clean ,

realy realy glad to hear you arent breaking a corrado because of an engine fault!! have you looked into what this fault is or could be? ,

lol so you already new you had a blocked drain, the waters more then likely trickleing down the inside of the pillar plastics,

heres a good little video of a scratch repair , hopefully give an insite into the work involved for people out there that dont know, its prety simple as its just a door and can be masked up as a complete panal so there wont be any lines hidden anywhere also the repair on this rear quarter is very simple as it has panal gaps where he can mask into and completley clear the whole area in one with no blend lines. now compare that to a corrado!!! where would you guys mask off?? you can now see why the corrado would be a little harder and maybe cost abit more then an average car to repair.

cool, theres bound to be someone thats done a3 seats into mk3 , either way i think the best way would be to just whip both seats out and flip them upside down and have a butchers! cheers.

a3 is mk4 chassis so im gona assume its mk4 based, cool so mk3 seats fit straight in a corrado with no mods? they just sit high? just came across this {not literaly , ohh errrr} http://wiki.the-corrado.net/tt_seats_fitting.html cant imagine them to be much different to a3 seats,

anyone else done this? iv recently picked up an audi a3 1.6 with mint black leather interior for £200.00 as the gearbox has gone, im thinking either fix the gearbox and sell it on or remove the seats and make them fit into my corrado, and then maybe find a cloth interior for the a3

had this on my mk3 golf vr6, it turned out to be the sunroof drain being blocked, open the sunroof and from outside look into it, your see the tray that collects water and in each corner of the sunroof there is a drain hole with a pipe attached , the rear pipe exit behind the rear bumper and i think the front exit behind the front wings, either way just check there not blocked by carefuly pouring water down them , obviously if the water flows out nice , it isnt blocked, if it backs up and doesnt flow out , you gota problem!!

yea waves show up like crazy on a high gloss finish, its not the clear shrinking {if clear shrinks at all, it will shrink all together and not in isolated areas} its highs and lows that havnet been striaghtned by block sanding previous to colour, once your base coat {colour} goes down thats it , theres no return to fix high n lows or anything else for that matter even deep sanding scratchs cant be fixed after the base coat {colour} , it has to be removed in your filler and primer stages useing a guide coat and by block sanding in X pattern to get it straight , if you try and remove a high/low after clearcoat has been applied your asking for a repaint, as your only sand through it , heres an example of highs n lows from the badge delete which have been highlighted by a guide coat, at this stage your hand cant even feel them! but if you added the colour and clear , i garuntee you could surf them waves!! proccess is , more guide coat and keep sanding untill its all gone , add more primer if you burn through to original paint, you can roughly make out 6 circles where the badge holes were , black is a low, completley sanded primer circle is a high,

my rears stick out by an inch 1/2, all my treads is within the arch, havnt been stopped yet but i think given the oppurtunity it will happen, so i'll make my deffence now lol