VW_OwneR_85

yea that sites realy good, like i said theres english guys there to, just put UK in the thread title if you make one, also americans have different names for things, cellulose to them is lacquer paint, to us lacquer is the clear coat, so dont ask for a good quality lacquer! lol, also basecoat thinners or 2k thinners they call it "reducer" even though its thinners to us, just bare that in mind if you use the site.

cheers, na no insurance, i took it off the roads last year for rust repair and respray, its almost finished :) just need to start putting it together, yea im thinking just suck it up and take it to them, even though i think its a blatent rip off! they even said if i drop it off in the morning i can pick it up at 2pm when the glue has gone off, so its almost £150 for not even 2hours work and all they have to do is fit my screen which i brought from them! all the prep on the shell is done so no old glue clean up a brand new screen and new seals and trim!

that tubeing is the sun roof drain, if you remove the rear bumper the back drains exit there,theres basicaly a drain pipe in each corner of the sunroof, if you blow up from the bottom it will clear any blockages that you may have, i think this drains the reason my arch rotted! thats a damn good idea about extending the pipe!

how much spraying are you doing? full car?, yea i know what you mean about getting it right, think the best thing is to post up on that forum about which 2k clear to use for what you want, i.e full respray? with a high gloss, there mainly american but theres a few english guys on there aswell which are very keen on answering any questions. but your question with brands might come down to mazda vs toyota, if you know what i mean? they all get the job done its just some prefer mazda and some prefer toyota

just been quoted £150 to have my screen fitted, kinda think this is a huge rip off! as all they have to do is fit it! i have a brand new screen all the new trim peices and seals , i even have the vw/audi windscreen glue and the worst bit is i have to bring the car to them! so im thinking diy! anyone attempted this? or any windscreen fitters here to tell me its p155 easy to do? ,i have the workshop manual which tells you the glue bead thickness and the spacers etc etc so i prety much have everything apart from the confidence...

im prety sure its the same stuff m8,could be labled different by the manufacturer?, its designed to go on bare metal and digs itself in, from what iv been told on the paint forum idealy what we need is epoxy primer as it blocks out moisture and inhibits corrosion, but i cant find anything but marine stuff , dont know if its suitable for automotive use, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/INTERNATIONAL-INTERPROTECT-EPOXY-PRIMER-750ml-WHITE-/220925361760?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_BoatEquipment_Accessories_SM&hash=item33702d7e60 think i might get some but in a different colour for underneith , if its good enough for boats then im sure its good for sills and troublesome rust spots, then just cover over with thick underseal paint ?

i realy couldnt tell you, im assumeing they would have the same fittings but i realy dont know.. post up a pic of your car and the areas that need replaceing, also check out the market place section here and check cars for breaking you may be able to get same colour replacements :)

yea almost to the lip, but aslong as you go far enough to where you can see it ya know? you dont have to go that far, yea a compressor will be needed, you can try the aerosol cans out on a test peice and see what its like? but to spray that gravitex and get the texture it takes like 50psi, an aerosol cant realy put thick paint out like that,btw its **** easy to spray that gravitex, if you do buy a compressor get one with a high cfm something around 9-10 is good then you can spray stuff if you ever wanted to, this compressor is ideal!! with a 14 cfm! in fact the specs of this compared to mine kills mine!!! and i paid prety much the same price, damn!! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BURISCH-Air-Compressor-3HP-90L-Belt-Drive-Twin-14CFM-Twin-Cylinder-/160721262092?pt=UK_Air_Tools_and_Compressors&hash=item256bbbd60c

umm? whats water doing in there?

the early ones are more square up front, google images early corrado then google late corrado and your see, im not sure on the year i think its from 92..

yea but no, dont sand because you want to keep the rough texture and sand paper will only flatten that and also wont get into the low spots of the texture, use these green scotch pads and just rough/scuff it up for a good key for the colour coat to adhere, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Starchem-Finishing-Pads-Starbrite-Scotch-Abrasive-mix-9-/300507552944?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item45f7a55cb0 also the first thing you need to do is clean the sills with hot soapy water and remove everything all the oil,tar dirt etc etc otherwise anything thats there will only get pushed and sanded further into the paint and when it comes paint time your get contamination everywhere.yea i only masked up just half way across that body line but my car was getting a full respray so it didnt matter to much to me but you should be able to do it and keep it lookn prety good, are you buying a compressor and paint gear? heres some pics, i sanded the lot flat because i had to reshape most of the sill i also wanted a consistant texture rather then the haveing the oem texture going into my new texture which would just stand out, its primed like that becuase i had to sand out surface rust right next to the sill protector ,you dont have to go that far..

my bumpers still got its gloss which is why iv used it on the rest of the car, dont know if adding to much thinners results in loss of gloss with clear?, which is why i dont thinn it, i just jack the pressure up abit, so may be thats why it lost its gloss?, heres a paint forum iv been useing for a few months, there realy good, any questions they normaly answer with in 10hrs, body shop pros aswell as diy'rs might help with your original question, http://www.autobody101.com/forums/index.php?&sid=a6e776025ab38a51877721ef098c2b6d

yea aerosol wont match that factory finish to well, i had to do the same on the passenger side, i sanded the whole lot back, used u-pols gravitex with an underseal gun on the whole side so it has the same consistant texture let it cure then scuff and prime then colour n clear.

you want a solvent basecoat and a 2k clear coat, {base coat clear coat paint system} the only time you would have a 2k colour is if its a single stage paint with no clear coat that gets buffed to a high sheen, your car will have basecoat clear coat not a single stage paint system, heres the kit ive been useing http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280620898259?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 but you can order it in your paint code, check out my thread for pics,tbh thats not exactly that cheap if you compare it to dupont or ppg,also get a good quality mask! with filters rated for organic vapour 2k paint vapours will kill you!

ahh good stuff! just that door and its prety sorted...

lol im on a mission man, cheers i'll give you a tinkle when its all ready,im hopeing to get it painted tomo if the prep doesnt take to long if not weds for sure, so if all goes to plan thursday evening would be golden but my time estimates are usualy delayed by twice as long, so we'll see :).....

right thought idd best tackle the rust repair on the tailgate as it needs welding and thats easier to do off the car rather then risk welding splatter on fresh paint, 2 main areas which need attention, below number plate light surface rust has cracked the paint and bare metal is exposed also has a big nasty hole in the bottome right corner, i did grind out the rust below the number plate light and treated it then skimed the whole are with filler but i forgot to take a pic, should have the tailgate fitted by sunday at the latest,

ok that sounds alot better, im from the channel islands so idd prefer to use the local company over here, think idd just get a re quote with the mods and see what they say, but yea none of my mods are performance mods, and im 26 with no claims so i think i should be ok then..thanks..

hi guys, how is insurance for modifications worked out exactly? the same as it is for standard? is there a guide or % that they follow, i.e if your paying £500 a year and you want after market alloy wheels or a adjustable suspension, it will go up by 20% per mod?, i want to declare my mods but im worried that they might take advantage and rip my arms off for something thats realy going to make no difference to them, but in a leagle sense its the difference between haveing valid or invalid insurance....

the vr6 is a prety solid engine, i brought an absolute shed of a car thats been through hell and back on 130k but out of all the problems on my car the engine has been sweet, only thing i realy had to do was replace the oil cooler seals and spark plug leads and an oil and filter change as the last time it was changed was unknown {thats how bad it was lol} but as with any car you buy especialy a corrado, dont expect to buy it and not have to do anything to it, just give it a service so you know its been done for sure.

painting and rust repair of the tail gate so i need the spoiler out the way, yea cheers i see what you mean about the hex bolts, didnt realise they were there, makes my life a tadd easier now.. cheers for that

hi guys, can anyone tell me how to remove the rear spoiler without haveing to strip everything out, i see the plastic guides for it do i just split them apart? cheers..

bump still need some,

hi welcome back. in regards to your front spoiler hitting the trailer, im sure you can make some sort of quick release system where you can easliy remove and fit it, wing nut bolts maybe?

yep +1 on this!