Hofmiester

I bought new helper springs for my KW V1s and they were £22 each

Looking sweet mate, looking forward to seeing pic with it all back together

Thanks Jim, the guy I have been dealing with is Peter Alt and the last conversation I had with him was when he sent me a final PDF quote for the 7 wheels, I asked him if he could check the part number compatability, he said yes but it may take a little while........then radio silence and that was over a week ago

£57 from TPS, £65 from the dealer

Yeah that would really help Jim, I think either Peter has sacked us off as he can't be arsed to go find out if the wheel is an exact match for the UK Vr6 one.....or somthing bad has happened to him :(

I've stripped all the crumbling g foam now, cleaned the mech with compressed air. Like you say, bits in the cogs too. Going to recover the flaps in neoprene and grease mech with silicone spray. Then I'm ready to put this all back together! Btw bought a butane soldering iron for the wiring repairs....awesome bit of kit!

Ordered some adhesive neoprene sheet to replace the foam....fingers crossed it is a comparable match

Stick me down too please Si, what are the payment details? Thanks for organising this!

Any left?

Make sure you buy Hella (about £140) best quality and when I compared to a cheap £100 one, has more fins and is about 1cm thicker

To be honest, I had them and took them out. They are quite badly made and so prone to flickering, look cheap in that the face design has a fairly naff font....plus there is no needle stop so the needle just hangs there at the bottom. Not great and will probably fall into the depths of chavdom like the White faced dials on the 90s

Et35 195/45/16

Yeah, it is hard to understand what is and isn't coming with this kit

Just wonder if somthing has happened to him, maybe he's off sick? He was very good at replying before.

I've mailed him every day and got nothing back so if no response by Friday, I'll refund everyone. Gutted :(

This morning I've been examining the heater box to see why the heater controls in my car were broken (usual, directional control) When the Bowden cables are disconnected, they all move freely so they are not the issue as is normally the case. Moving the arms on the heater box showed that they were really stiff so I took a look inside.... The foam that coats the flaps inside has all crumbled away and jammed up the mechanism, which must have put strain the the control unit and eventually broken it.

It's crazy, it is all alarm related so basically the guy that fitted it back in 2004 was a real Cowboy :( ah well, it hasn't gone up in flames yet and I'll be able to sort this easy enough.... Just more work!

It's come up well, good job as the rest of the day hasn't been the best. I always knew my car had some less that ideal wiring. When I bought it, I had little tidy up but now, with the dash out I've been having a proper investigation. Peeling miles and miles of crumbling insulation tape has revealed some pearlers! Check these wires just twisted together out! Also check out the pile of redundant wire and other electrical chaff I've found and removed...a tracker...old alarm wiring....the remains of a massive ice set up that was all just tucked under the carpet and not connected. But this is the best one, 30A ingnition cable, spliced into a speaker cable ad then down to a tiny bit of cable...FFS! I knew the NVQ in electronics would be worth having one day :)

It was just the basic leather colorant kit, I just did the wheel and the side bolsters of the driver seat. Final finish will be satin but I've not put the top coat sealant on yet as you should give the dye a few days to properly set. http://www.furnitureclinic.co.uk/Leather_Colourant_Kit.php I didn't use their crappy spray gun, used a mini spray repair gun connected to a compressor :)

It's a furniture clinic kit, just asked for VW black. Basically comes with chemicals to strip the old coating off the leather. Then you spray on the new coating and then finalise with a coat of sealant (not done that yet) Kit is about £35

Also got cracking in filling all the cavity sections with rust prevention. Picked a product that is both a preventer and also a cure for any existing rust, was about £3 more expensive per litre than just wax. Used a compressor and a Shultz gun to force it into all the gaps. 6bar really throws this stuff :) I used the little trim holes in the sills to get into them with the gun fitted with an extension pipe. Also did the rear quarters, inner arch etc pleased to see it is totally rust free in all the nooks....should do another 20yrs after this treatment

While all the interior is out, I wanted to try some leather reconditioning techniques and products. Heard great things about "liquid leather" and also "furniture clinic" products. Firstly used the liquid leather 2 part cleaner and conditioner on my seats. Applied the cleaner into the seats using a brush, being sure to work it into any cracks and gaps etc [ATTACH]77270[/ATTACH] Then, once dry apply the conditioner, then allow to dry for a day or so....very easy but took about 2 hours to do the 2 heats. I moved my seats into the kitchen to get the leather warmed up first by the Aga. Great results, seats are very soft and the shine has gone, left with a nice satin finish. [ATTACH]77271[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]77272[/ATTACH] Also used FCs leather kit on my wheel. Stripping the coating and re-painting it black with a spray gun. Came out really nice!

Hi Folks, Just a pretty boring update, Peter at VW Classic is taking ages to get back to me on the check on fitment. I've chased him twice but no reply. He may be off sick or something but I have everyones money so I'll chase again next week. If we still hear nothing by next Friday, I vote we cancel and I'll refund everyone. I'm sure he's just been off for some reason but it is very annoying!

Yeah, if it is the same plot then I wont even bother washing the car before hand, let along spend 5 hours polishing for it to be ruined in 10 mins

Yeah, this is awesome!