Hofmiester

Hey Chris, do you want to mini convoy down? I think it will be an early start for us Northern lot as its at least a 3 and 1/2 hour drive.

That looks ok to me mate, sounds like you have a jobsworth on your case

Yeah, agree with the guys. For £1000 you can get corrados that are scabby but are at least running. There was a Blackberry one on eBay earlier this week that went for about £900. Was running and no major rot, needed some work on the brakes for an MOT. I think you are better off breaking it. If the leather is good then that's worth £500-800 depending on condition. Those two good wings are worth £40-50 each. Then there is all the easy to remove bits like wheels, steering wheel, headlights (£40 each) fogs etc, bumpers etc Even if you just sold off the interior, wings, easy to remove other bits then you have well over a grand. Then you could either offer what is left to someone on here for a couple of hundred quid or let the scrap man have it. Ron

Hells yeah!

Just original Blackberry. I had a rotten passenger wing and the only rust free one I could find was Dragon Green. Plus the bonnet that came on my car had a few dents and was stone chipped so I bought another but while in good nick, the shade of paint didn't really match. So I'm having the front end of the car painted, also got a set of freshly refurbed RH Cups in Anthracite to go on.

Pics?

No worries mate and looking forward to hearing more about your finished car. The gauge pod is easy to make, took about an hour and a half. I can write up some notes if it helps you. You might want to buy a spare vent (I paid £10 from ebay) or use your own but I'd buy a spare. Or you can buy one from SWG but they want £40! http://www.swgmotorsport.com/asps/ShowDetails.asp?id=261 I should be getting my car back any day now from the body shop.....I really hope they do a good job as I am really fussy and it will bother me if it's not perfect. Walter Bell has a great rep though and the fact he was painting an Aston Martin last time I was there gave me confidence.

Spent some time making this last night. Auto meter gauge is a good match for the rest of the dials, Green illumination and orange needle.

"Having just undergone a thorough and costly restoration, the car is now ready to be enjoyed for another 10 years"

I approached both when looking to get mapping for my Vortech. I was disturbed by the reply I got from United Motorsport, the person who replied did not give me their name in the email but said that I should stay away from Vince (Stealth) as his mapping had blown several peoples cars up....This really lowered them in my opinion. Vince was super helpful and went out of his way to tell me more info about what I needed and didnt need in my Vortech build. He also did the mapping at a great price and the car runs better than when it was standard. Plus every other tuner I have spoken to seems to have respect for his work.....I think it was a low blow from the guys at United. I went with Stealth in the end.

Get in.....result

Get it on......makes a truely awesome noise!

Does redex really work or was that just some kind of RR mistake? I always though Redex was BS

It depends on what charger you have as the newer vortech ones dont take the oil from the engine. For the V9 the general concensus is that 5w-30 or even 10w-40 is too thin and not good for the oil seals which like a thicker oil. However if yours is a sealed charger with it's own oil then you dont need to worry. I'm running the charger, no oil cooler and my oil temp is if anything, a little lower but that might be due to the oil temp sender now being mounted on an adaptor for my oil feed. The oil temp reading may be less due to that but if so it will be marginal as its only 10mm away from its original location.

On mine, I also moved to Millers CFS 10w-50 oil.....very expensive but aparently will keep the charger in good shape for longer and the thicker grade works well with a higher mileage VR6. So far my car hasn't used a drop of oil, runs quieter and oil temp is lower with the charger on than it was before when I was unsing synta silver 10w-40 I have an oil cooler and new Hella radiator going on over winter just to be sure though.

Totally agree with n3p, the rotrex would probably be the better option if money is no object. You get the power lower down the revs but much like a turbo due to the planetary drive being able to spin the impellor at up to 100k rpm, it is prone to peaks and spikes of boost. The Vortech is directly driven by engine RPM via a gearbox, so it's the same delivery all the time. The down side is that the peak RPM is in a linear built up to rpm and bost doesn't even begin to build until 3.5k to 4k So low down in the revs, day to day traffic driving you get bugger all. But get the revs up and it really goes.....I was at 6psi at 6500 rpm and it sounded like Airwolf (for those of you brought up in the 80s!)

They are separate on the corrado too, those ones in the pic are an aftermarket upgrade.

Fingers crossed matey.....I get exactly the same grief, my Mrs says that the car has become an obsession, a 3rd person in our marriage but I tell get that at least I am not out drinking, gambling or womanising...well I don't touch anyway ;)

Nice colour combo mate, we need to all meet up again......do that insane run around Helmsley :)

mmmmmmmmm lush

Are you doing the install yourself? There are a couple of bits I can think of. 1) MAF location - All the VF kits mount the MAF on the end of the charger intake pipe, which is only about 12" away from the impellor. Most people find that their car idles rough when the MAF is located here. The issue is that on the Corrado, there is very little room and so they put the MAF 12" away, stick a filter right on the end (which also doesn't help with MAF readings) and that's it. I did a LOT of reading on this and by relocating the filter to the otherside (in the Passenger side bumper corner) and putting the MAF further away from the charger, you can get a very steady idle. Mine idles smother than it did with a stock airbox! I used a Neoprene flexi tube (I paid more for the double skin) like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140671550957?var=440038041992&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 You can just set my setup in this pic We also wrapped some silicone pipe around it in the places where it touches the cross member (it is tie wrapped into position) 2) Reduce the complexity of the intake system as much as possible to help reduce the chance of boost leaks etc. In my case I ditched the rocker cover PCV and went with a oil catch can. Originally I just stuck a breather filter on there but I got some really bad fumes and so I mounted a can and then routed the air vent down behind the wing....no more smells. This then frees up the vacume nipple on the TB to be used for you Diverter Valve and Boost Gauge. I wasn't really happy with tapping the Brake booster vac supply as it means you need a really long vacume pipe to stretch across the engine bay. 3) Remove the driverside headlight, makes the install soooo much easier 4) If your car has the oil feed line/return, make sure you route it carfully so it doesn't rub on anything while driving 5) You may have to remove the bracket for the fuel lines that supports them just before they go into the rail. On the V9 charger it was very tight and so we removed the bracket and cut a circular groove into the V9 backet for the fuel line to pass by.

No, I had one stolen about 10 years ago.

Just make sure you check the serial no, the one stolen from me was no 246

Haha....well in all seriousness, I think when you do get her on the road, with the power we were talking about the other week at lunchtime.....it's going to be very quick, 100bhp more than mine will be awesome. Get it finished Chris!

Pah! I still don't think Verity exists ;) she's like a Ghost car that only Chris can see....when he's had a few beers