Stonejag

Yeah, they're Eurocullen ones. Didn't realise how aggressively tinted they were, but they do blend in nicely!

Fair enough :lol: They're pretty dim so I may invest in some high-efficiency LEDs for them. The ones that came with the markers are hopeless! Loving the cleaned-up front though...

That would be because you put yours in 10mm too low. On genuine bumpers the top of the side marker is only a couple of mm from the groove on the top. Stone

That'd be fine, just let me know and we can sort times out etc. They're approx 30cm x 50cm so probably end up approx 75x75x50 when packaged. No idea as to weight - would have thought 15kg should cover it? Stone

Thanks for the advice - going to be quite a long-running claim so I'm hoping they'll just try to buy me off so they can close it ;) Finally got the car back yesterday! :cheers: Looks so much happier for a bit of machine polishing and fresh paint...pretty happy with the colour match too. Shame the bonnet's so bad (twisted, dented, keyed) as it's letting it down now. On the bright side he had some paint left so offered to do a bonnet for £80 when I get one :D Anyway, celebratory pics: Just need to wire in the side markers and get shot of the rest of the rub strips and I can relax for a bit now. I also discovered that if you park a car with fresh paint under a tree the birds will try and make it less shiny for you :lol: Stone

Why on earth would you want to put it back to stock? That there's crazy talk :lol: It's looking a lot better after some machine polishing and fresh paint, anyway! Gave the body shop the ends of an American bumper - they cut out the mounting points and welded it into my bumper so they're recessed correctly like they should be. I really like how well they disappear into the swage line, just need to get the rest of the side rubbing strips off when I'm feeling brave :) Thanks for the tips, should get them wired in tomorrow and I'll finally be free of having to reattach the side repeaters every time I park :lol: Stone

Mate, to be honest they're really too heavy to post at anything approaching a reasonable rate. Happy for you to send a courier if you like though, I've always been happy with Paisley Freight who are your side of the border... Yes they are - grabbed them for my Golf thinking they were the same size but it has smaller strut tops. Stuck them in the ultrasonic bath for you and they've come up quite nicely. Should have specified this is the type that fits on top of the exhaust manifold, not the under-car one. No point in chroming those :lol: Did you see the OMP one peeking out behind it? Was saving it for the Golf but I'll part with it for £80... Stone

Yes, that's what I meant. Bearing in mind that the outside part of the 4-pin external connector is part of the plastic outer housing, do you also need this bit cut out or just the white plastic insert that fits into the middle? PM me with your address and I'll let you know payment details. £50 total posted.

My entire house is full of Corrado parts and it's winding me up :lol: Will my loss be your gain? Pics available on request. All prices posted. Free stuff to be collected or postage paid. Front upper strut brace - genuine OMP part. Black powder-coated bar, natural aluminium strut top plates. Slightly diffferent shape to the polished one but again won't fit a VR6 - from memory I think it fouls on the brake fluid reservoir, but could probably be made to fit with some fettling / relocating. £80 collected or £100 posted. 24v oil pump - improves oil pickup if you're using a 24v sump on your VR (sits slightly lower than the 12v sump). Note this won't fit in a standard steel sump. Good working order. £30 Small and large headlight rear caps - 2 of each size available - free. Headlight reflector assembly - right side. Excellent condition - ideal for Joey modding. £20. Left headlight outer bezel - free Left headlight glass - no cracks - and rubber seal. £10 Internal headlight wiring harnesses - 2 available, £3 per side. Complete right headlight assembly (believed to be late, marked 132 806-00) - near-perfect glass, fully working but top two retaining tabs snapped £30 Plastic windscreen wiper trim surround x2 (not sure which sides - part numbers 536 853 845 and 536 853 830) - free VR6 exhaust heat shield (solid type) - bit of pitting but would clean up nicely with a wire wheel. I started on this but then got bored and got one chromed instead! £10 Thanks for looking :) Stone

Aftermarket or OEM? I know someone made some weld-in kits a while back... I used a 24V sump on my VR for a while (until I cracked it, stupid potholes!) but the baffling's pretty half-hearted. Now I'm using an R32 sump it's much better! Don't notice a massive difference but the main advantage is how high up it sits - way shallower than stock. Doesn't really help you though, sorry! I really don't think oil starvation in corners is as much of a problem as everyone thinks, the pumps are pretty good really. Stone

I now have side markers fitted to the front bumper and wings with no holes in. :cheers: Unfortunately the body shop have put the wings back on without fishing the wiring through and now I can't find them to extend the wiring forward :lol: Could someone please confirm for me where the wiring for the side repeaters runs from the engine bay into the space behind the wings? There are some suspicious-looking thin wires running along the middle of the scuttle panel which I think may be them, just don't want to disturb anything I don't have to. Not mad keen to mess the panel gaps up taking the wings back off, I imagine I'll have to remove the front wheels and arch liners to push it back through... All good fun! Ta, Stone

268s are higher lift than 263s, so without uprated springs you may get valve float if you rev it too hard. No need to take the head off if you don't want to. If you smash the ceramic insulator on an old spark plug, then weld the threaded portion to a compressed-air fitting, you can use air pressure to hold the valve up against the head while you remove the springs and retainer. Then again, if you're going that far you may as well take the opportunity to replace the stem seals and regrind the valve seats. Stone

Thanks all - after measuring I don't think it'll go in the Beamer so I'll hold on until the next round. Been offered a blackberry one not too far away so a swap may be on the cards...!

Forgot to stipulate: I've only got a loaned BMW 118d to pick it up in so if it won't go I'll be stuck! I did fit front and back bumpers, two wings and a slam panel all in at once but it may not be quite wide enough...

Ronal Turbos were available in 16x7.5, look much the same (except they're actually retro. :lol:) and will cost about £700, if the sets on US eBay are anything to go by. Most of the truly retro wheels seem to be 15", I just bought a gorgeous set of Atiwe Typ 90s for my Golf (15x7) and I thought they were dear at £400! On previous owner's car: Personally I can't stand most 'scene' BBS wheels, they just don't appeal to me. Buck the trend and get some nice five-spokes! Stone

Got my car in for paint at the moment (front and rear bumpers, slam panel, front wings - insurance job) and I'd like to get the bonnet done as well if there's any paint left over, as mine's in a right state. This is a very limited-time request as it'll be done by Friday! If I can't find one in time I'll leave it until the next paint's done... If anybody's got a straight one, within an hour or three from Bedford, that I could collect (or you could deliver!) tomorrow or Wednesday evening, then please let me know. Thanks :) Stone

Hah, classic! Nice of them to check both ends :bonk: Finally dropped the car off at lunchtime today - I gave them the panels on Friday, in the hire car (no sense in messing up my leather, right? :)) and it was great to see them all in primer already. Even better, he'd blended in my US side markers on the front bumper and welded up the holes on both wings, they look mint, really looking forward to seeing them fitted! Shame I couldn't get the bonnet damage covered (would most likely have tipped it over the write off limit and I didn't want to push my luck) as all the rest of the front end will be mint now. If anybody has a cheap Blackberry one they could deliver to Bedford tomorrow then now's your chance! With any luck the injury compo will cover the rest of the respray with the other mods I wanted (Audi A6 door handles, smoothed rear seams and roof) so it won't be such a patchwork forever! Had a hand ultrasound today which wasn't very encouraging so I should be able to kick off the claim after I see my surgeon on Friday. I'd cross my fingers if they worked properly... So nice to drive it again after six weeks off. In love again :luvlove: Stone

I have 100% congestion charge discount so drive the C in London a fair bit. Wished I didn't when I cracked my sump dipping one wheel into a monster pothole, mind :bad-words: It's already like this in much of Europe - on my trip to Worthersee this year (in the Golf, a 1987 cabby) I won't be able to enter a fair few cities because it has no catalytic converter so can't meet Euro 1. Just one of those things... Stone

I cracked two Ultraleggeras, I feel your pain :-( Even aftet they were welded one of them doesn't hold air, gave up for now and fitted something sturdier... One of the roads near me is always referred to in the local paper as 'cluster bomb alley' - I'll take some pictures when I'm next there, it really has to be seen to be believed! As above, they just chuck some tarmac in the holes and then look surprised when it caves in the following week. Crap. Stone

Aaaaaargh. Despite me giving them all the details, including a name and contact number, it turns out they rang a different body shop (next door to the one I specified), who don't do credit repairs :bad-words: So it's probably OK. Or it may not be. Getting to be past caring by now, to be honest! Si: thanks, test results showed 'moderate' compression to the nerve at my elbow so it'll probably take a minor op to relieve the pressure. Either three or four of the tendon grafts in my fingers have torn, getting an ultrasound in two weeks to find out how many :(

Lots of messing around later and the claim processing company have finally heard back from the at-fault party's insurers. Based on the assessor's report they're going to pay for the cost of repairs. Wasn't best pleased to find this out by getting a phone call from their 'preferred' (i.e., crap) body shop asking me when I was booking the car in! :censored: Rang them up and let them know I'd be going to the body shop of my choice instead (a work colleague used to work their and vouched for them) since I'd popped over on Saturday to let them have a look and do me a written estimate. So today of course I got a voicemail saying that since my body shop wouldn't agree to their terms and conditions, I had 'no other choice' but to use their approved repairer... Obviously this is bollocks - provided the quote comes in under the assessor's estimate then the third-party insurers will still pay it - but it means less kickbacks for the claims handlers from not using pattern parts / cheap paint / cheap labour. Millions of reviews of this place complaining of poor colour matches, cheap parts and overspray so it's obviously not going there. What's the fastest way to convince them to stop arguing? I was going to go with a suggestion I ring the ombudsman, then raise a small claims case against them via the Unfair Terms in Consumer Contracts Regulations / Unfair Contract Terms Act, but maybe there's a shortcut? Basically I just want to be the customer - if they arrange it through their own workshop then I have no comeback over quality issues since the contract will be between the claims company and the body shop and I'll just have to accept whatever I'm given. Don't understand why more people don't kick off about this, their selling practices are outrageous. No wonder insurance is so expensive... Stone

Me too. £15 posted?

You may be able to get a look at the sprocket through the ggearbox inspection plate - should be two M7 bolts to remove from the plate adjacent to the dump at the timing chain end. Stone

Went the other way on mine a few weeks back. That's all, but you'll also need a gearbox inspection plate to cover the hole in the flywheel end of the gearbox - the R32 sump is too close to leave this fitted so it'll have been removed. Stone

One was on my car when I bought it - horn never worked right despite much fiddling. Ditched it for an OEM wheel and was much happier! The two huge bolts are standard, you pull both at once to release the wheel. I didn't find it affected the driving position much - you can always move the seat or adjust the column - but I found the slight wobble it introduced quite disconcerting and didn't miss it when it was gone. Stone