Stonejag

Part #20 is labelled as "191837199 clip" so try asking your local VW stealers. Probably long obsolete now but worth a shot as it may have been used on other similar models. Stone

At the scrappy earlier, had barely got out of the car and an excited-looking chap shouted over 'Wow, don't see a lit of Corrados around now - nice to see one!'. Big grin :)

Well, mine turned up - bit of a pain to fit as the middle (submerged) screw is rusted solid on my nearside light so I had to do it all with the light fitted and battery in the way! Huge difference though, much bigger pool of light on the road immediately in front of the car and the beam seems to go about twice as far. Not quite so terrifying at night any more! Definitely worth the purchase. Stone

Bloody hell, £333?! I bought an own-brand one from GSF this morning for £78 inc VAT, with a one year warranty! Johnny: tried cleaning the MAF? Run it for a bit, then kill the engine by turn the key to the accessory power position and leave it there for 30 arcs before turning off - the ecu should keep the wire heated and burn any crap off it. Cheap so worth a try! If not then also make sure the MAF connector is clean and free of water before spending any more... Stone

In the UK, only one side needs to agree you can record a call - which means you can quite legally record any call where they've played you the 'calls may be recorded or monitored' message. You assume they're informing you they might record it but actually they're permitting you to record it too! Might come in handy ;) Not really surprised by their tactics, I had a doubleglazing salesman try that on me once. When I invited him to leave he started on a massive sweary rant about how I never wanted to buy any effing windows and had been wasting his time :lol: Stone

For me the 'Welcome, Stonejag Notifications My Profile Settings Log Out' menubar is overlapping the bit where it shows Forum > subforum > thread, so I have to navigate with Forward / Back rather than the forum links. Dodgy CSS somewhere? This is on Safari version 5.1.2 (6534.52.7) on an Intel Mac running Snow Leopard. Stone

Don't have a pic of it in the car, but here's my spare. The two white plastic inserts hold the pushrods captive - firmly pull straight towards you and they'll release. They just snap in under pressure when you're reassembling. Once you knock the small brass pin out (holding the button in the pressed position makes it easier), the lock barrel should come out forwards, towards the key, when the key is turned. You may need to wiggle the key around a bit and/or use force if the wafers are stuck! Once it's out, you can retumble it - asking nicely at your local indy VW place usually gets you a small pile of wafers and springs - it's a lot easier if you let it sit in a tub of WD40 for a week or so before you try moving any of the pins, though. Hope that helps! Stone

If you read the thread, he's run out of OEM connectors so you can only fit it by splicing ;) Stone

My point is that the same caliper was used for 288s and 312s on both Mk3 and Mk4 Golf (plus Bora, plus Passat, etc etc) and you can't guarantee which fitment you're getting. Buy the calipers first and then get the hoses once you know what you have! I thought 288s off a Mk3 had the screw fitting anyway? :scratch:

Well, I swapped on my epoxied coilpack and it's running fine again :) The leads were new about three weeks ago so I was confident it wasn't them...do check yours though. FWIW my coilpack was totally knackered and you couldn't see a thing when it was misfiring! The crack was right down the edge closest to the slam panel so cylinders 1 and 6 had dropped out. Stone

I bought some Mk4 / 312 guards on the offchance but the holes are in the wrong places so left them off. They don't do much anyway :) Stone

There must be something in the water, mine lost a coil earlier :( It'd been running a bit rough when it got wet for the past few weeks (then recovering) but the cold weather must have finished it off. I start a new job tomorrow and was on a dry run to remind myself of the route in - lucky I did or it would have failed on the way in on my first day :lol: I've got a spare - with a crack in - I've just poured a load of epoxy into it so hopefully it will last me long enough to get a new one... Stone

My sills are totally rotten where they meet the wing, especially on the driver's side (the vertical bolt that holds the wing on just spins freely because it's all corroded away!). Going to get it sorted during my respray this year, but how did you lot approach it? New fabrication or using patch panels cut out of a donor car? I can't see there'd be many with that bit still intact... Stone

In another thread someone said they tried swapping the high beams and it didn't make much difference. Mine are bright enough even without an uprated loom (if I could drive around with them on full beam all the time it'd be fine!) so I'm just going to swap the normal ones and see how much better it gets :)

Different shape base contacts. Corrado main/dip beam is H4, the main beam spots are H3.

Thread a normal bolt with each thread pitch in? Off the top of my head I think normal M10s are 10x1, you can measure with digital/Vernier calipers (well worth investing in, they aren't dear and come in really useful!). If you buy from C&R they'll send you new ones if you get the wrong kind by mistake. Or I can post you some if you like ;)

Doublecheck your banjo sizes before you buy any hoses, some of the 288/312 calipers are M10x1 and some are M10x1.5. Ask me how I found out! :bonk: Stone

Thanks for the tip, been wondering about mine on the last few night trips but would rather not hack my loom up to uprate it just yet. I ordered these ones :) Stone

£15, and you'll get some free front disks and calipers :) No carriers for the rear caliipers, they're still on the car.

I've just noticed that the bleed nipple has been damaged on one of the front calipers - probably still could be removed with care, but I'm dropping the price to £15 as I need the space. Please come and take them away :) Stone

I think you have to swap the door mech as well for those? This is only to tide me over until my respray as I want to get some Audi handles chopped in so I'll pass, but thank you anyway :)

Only one in the country, wonder why :lol: Were they trying to make it look like an R8? I'd put money on those windows tints being illegally dark as well... Stone

I had this - sometimes the light would come on (and stay on) immediately, sometimes it would go off and come on after a few miles of driving. I got one of the rear ABS sensors replaced as it was giving an error in VAG-COM, but it wasn't fixed until I had both rear wheel bearings done and got new ABS cages at the same time - the light stayed on for a long while (~100 miles!) and then went off forever :) The cages aren't dear - I got the last two from VW Spares and they were £7.25 ex VAT each. Worth trying before you start fiddling with sensors as that gets expensive! Apparently they never come out in one piece... Stone

Just spotted this - they look great but you'll need to take them out before your next MOT because the rules are changing: you can't have HIDs any more unless you have self-levelling and headlamp washers. Also the beam pattern will be wrong (the optics weren't designed for HIDs so they focus incorrectly) so it's too bright upfront and dangerously dark further ahead. All the new rules are on the AA's site here - they come in on the first of April. Lovely car though! :)

Mine does exactly that - it's not the motor, it's sticking inside the mechanism. Easy way to check - firstly close it fully, drop the motor and run it backwards and forwards on the switch to check it's moving freely and not binding anywhere inside. Then, replace the motor (remember to synchronise it by running it forward to the closed position first!) and turn the interior light on. Open the roof and close it - if the light dims as the motor cuts out halfway shut, then it's stopped because the overcurrent protection in the motor has kicked in to stop it pushing against too much resistance. You may be able to get it working properly again with careful cleaning and some of VW's magical grease-made-out-of-dead-unicorns but you probably need to strip it out and replace it to get it 100%. I stopped caring after a while :lol: Stone