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Redfox

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Everything posted by Redfox

  1. Redfox

    The Rising

    All right, so back after some holiday. I've bought a new plastic trim that sit's between the doorglass and the doorcard, so should eliminate a little crack in the old one. I've shelled out for a set of my dream wheels, the BBS RS 3 piece split wheels in 7*16" and 4*100mm holes. I will work on them over summer or maybe next winter to make them look how I like them. More later. Cheers, Redfox.
  2. I think there are a number of things you could try to help your back problem. First of all adjust the backrest more upright, and do not set the seathight low, as you'll bend the hips more, and block off blood and make pressure on the main nerveous system that goes into each leg. Many people suffer from this. Next you could have a more soft suspension, soft enginemounts, bushes etc, to make it more forgiving to drive in. And have smaller wheels (15") with 55 profole or 55 profile. Should give a little bit too. I find the Recaro seats much better for a person with back problems, but not so supportive sideways in the backrest side support (bolsters). The Golf II Recaros were much better in this department. Otherwise the same apart from heat, electrics etc. BMW used a lumbar support thet you could inflate witha arubber ball n some of their cars, to prevent the back from falling forward and giving pain. This can be built into the Corrado Recaros too. I have just bought a set complete BMW Recaros and over the winter, I'll transform my Corrado leather seats into having the bigger backrest sidesupports and also have the inflatable function from BMW version, plus keep the Corrado heat and electrics. This should all in all give the perfect seat for preventing back pain etc. plus max. support. You could also look into one of Recaro's ergo seats with lots of manual or electric adjustabilities. These are specially made for people with all kind of problems, and can be adjusten in many many ways. Built in onto the Corrado Recaro base, and it should work jsut fine. The beemer will have some of this ergonomics into it, therefore no pain (or at least at a later stage). Hope that you solve it. Cheers, Redfox.
  3. it's only you... :) Cheers,Redfox.
  4. I also say wtf as I was telling him first. And I wrote him a lot of times. Crap. If someone don't want to honor their own advert, then just don't make an add for it. That is my two cents. At least have the curtesy to reply. :( At least people on here like Dave16v and others I have dealt with, are honorable good people who keep their word. And that is the way to do it. Redfox.
  5. Hello Gingernuts, I am abroard, but coming hom eth e29th. Still want to buy your roofrack. Please give me a sign :) Cheers, Redfox.
  6. No, leave in on the rebar. And take the whole front bumper off the car. Cheers, Redfox.
  7. The adjustment point you're looking for, is where the horns both on to the bar behind the plastic bunoper skin. So to adjust this, you need to take it off. Easy job. Cheers, Redfox.
  8. Just a quick question on width then: how does a Corrado handle with some BBS 15" Rs's in 7" front and 8" rear (et 16 and 18)? I think rubber woukld be 205 in front and 215 in rear. Cheers, Redfox.
  9. Sure the cat may be there, but normally a wing is also sealed, not only screwed down. Worth a try. Cheers, Redfox.
  10. Think so too. Btw. the plastic holders on the wings are fixed in their seating, so they are not adjustable. So if you raise the bumper in the front, it will look silly with airgap at the rear towards the doors. Anyway, I am sure you will correct it ;) Be carefull with the 4 bolts that hold the bumperhorns, as they come off ease, but can destroy the thread when screwing them back in, by stripping the thread. New bolts and coppergrease are your friends. And remember don't drive without the front bumper, as the bolts also hold a front cross member (or whatever it's called)... ;) Cheers, Redfox.
  11. Hi and thanks for the answer. Yes I am sure it's the correct set. Bot on sticker and parts. I spoke to my frined who helped me putting it on the other day, and when I return home, we'll try to cut off the rear bracket and change the angle of the whole tip-part to give it some space to raise it. nice looking, and now booming after 150 kilometers, even if it have 3 silencers, but bad made system. Cannot recommend it at all, but don't take my word for it. Others may have a different experience. Just want to show people what they may buy before they do it. I'll post back when it's been done or taken off. Btw, how fast is your 20vt Corrado? Cheers, Redfox.
  12. Don't really know, but I tried lifting mine a bit all over, and it wasn't possible. In your case there just may be a slight bend on the bracket that holds the bunper in one side. The holes are elongated a bit where the brackets (horns) screws on to the big metal bar behind the plastic bumperskin as far as I remember, so it gives you a slight bit of adjustment. The Corrado was never a car with tight tolerances, so there will be some air between. Look also for the plastic holder on the front wing, as it can break. Hope it helps. Cheers, Redfox.
  13. Redfox

    The Rising

    Hi all, Small things count too, and these I have bought soem 12 years ago, thinking I may someday use them. They are the little covers that hide the screw heads holding the doorcards. 3 were missing, so I put new ones on ;) [ATTACH=CONFIG]62529[/ATTACH] So now all 6 are in place. Then it was time for cleaning up some small edges around sills and doors: [ATTACH=CONFIG]62533[/ATTACH] This is from before I cleaned it up. Unfortunately it got dark before finishing, so no pics of that ;( Yeah yeah, I know, it's going a bit anal... ;) Cheers, Capfox.
  14. Thanks, Mine seems to have the opposite problem, that being hanging too low. Especially towards the rear end. I tried a few different rubbers, and the original hook, but to np avail. I Think I need to fabricate another hook or something. It also seems as if the welded final outlet (with the tip) is welded too low and/or have a slightly wrong angle in comparison to the original one. This then makes the tip bang on the rearfender, while the silencer hangs too low under the floor. I think that is pretty hard to reverse? Here's a pic of the problem: [ATTACH=CONFIG]62457[/ATTACH] and here: [ATTACH=CONFIG]62461[/ATTACH] Any ideas are most welcome! Cheers, Redfox.
  15. A quick question for the Jetex/Simons exhaust owners: What did you do to raise the rear of the final silencer a bit, so it does not hang so low? And did that help avoiding the clanging on the rear axle? My car is a M-chassis 1991 G60 born with a longer cat. also, did you notice the rear silencer tip getting hot? The standard factory does not (or at least less hot). Cheers, Redfox.
  16. I was getting close to home after a blast at the freeway to free up the new exhaust, and I planted the foot from a stoplight, but only in first gear, then relaxed in second. Then I felt something in my neck, and it was a policecar. They just asked me for a drivers license, and if it was my car, insurance etc, and then asked me if it was a audi quatro? No, I replied politely, it a Karmann Corrado G60. The officer then commented on how nice it looked, and very clean and polished and way too low for him to drive in ;) Then had a small talk about polishing cars and taking good care of them. He also asked why it had this nice humming sound from the engine, and I told him about the G-lader. He clearly did not know, and was positively surprised. They then looked at my all red rearlights, and said the car looked nice. I guess that is better than a fine for reckless driving? ;) Cheers, Redfox.
  17. And take a look at this a 1:35. That's a nice reason to have a Corrado. A nice competition indeed. Actually lot's of reasons to have a Corrado ;) Fortunately. Cheers, Redfox.
  18. i30, what a symptomatical name for a far eastern piece of crap... So I agree completely. Cheers, Redfox. ---------- Post added at 6:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 6:44 PM ---------- Ah, take a look at apprx. 2:20, look at the Corrado in the middle versus the other two cars. That's why ;) Cheers, Redfox.
  19. But good on you that you bought another one !!! I am sure your child will eventually have the coolest father with the coolest car ;) Cheers, Redfox.
  20. Hello Gingernuts, I don't know if yoy just haven't had the time to look at this, but I am still wanting to buy your Thule Roof rack ;) Havent had any reply yet, so looking forward to buying them. Cheers, Redfox. ---------- Post added at 10:26 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:22 AM ---------- Hello Gingernuts, I don't know if yoy just haven't had the time to look at this, but I am still wanting to buy your Thule Roof rack ;) Havent had any reply yet, so looking forward to buying them. Cheers, Redfox.
  21. Eh no, becuse they may, just may, actually be producing spareparts ;) I try to steer clear of fleabay, so agree with you Kip. Happy buyer anyway ;) Cheers, Redfox.
  22. Redfox

    The Rising

    Okay guys and dolls, Here's some info on my exhaust swap. Before I had a completely standard 1991 G60 exhaustsystem, apart from the cat being a long type that smooths the powerflow nicely. That is also used on a GTi I am told. Anyway, it's standard, and have never been touched. I looks like this and is quite shot: [ATTACH=CONFIG]62377[/ATTACH] Actually it flows just fine as the engine is standard, and it turns out 177 Bhp and 228 Nm. It's heavy and rusty and beginning to blow. So in comes this Simons/Jetex/whatever name from Ray steel in Sweden, who actually makes exhausts for many different brands: [ATTACH=CONFIG]62381[/ATTACH] As can be seen I have also bought a set of Powerflex exhaust hangers/rubbers for the system. They look somewhat like oem. Unpacking the Simons system, I discovered several problems, that I will discuss onwards. 1': Kit contains a set of fittings, rubbers, hangers, tubes and clamps, that have to be scraped or heavily modified to fit at all. It's a cat back system, and it contains 3 silencers as it is a ressonance system type. The diameter from the cat is way smaller than the 2½" tubing that Simons uses. Therefore the kit contains a conical shaped tube to connect them. The first problem is, that this is not stainless steel, but a very very thin crappy type mild steel. 2': the welding is not stainless, and is not treated with acid to make them more resistant and look better. So this will not hold in the long run, and is ugly as ... 3': the system contains three silencers to dampen it enough to be somewhat like oem, at least under 3000 rpm's, which is okay. 4': the kit contains two hooks to hang it up in, instead of the original hooks. This means that the system was never designed for the Corrado, and moreover not for the 1991 G60 framenr. "M", but instead is a boxed up collection of parts bin system. The system may fit a Golf II G60 better. This I cannot testify at the time. 5': the first silencer is a long thin tube like one, and is way too long to ever fit between the cat and the middle silencer. The middle silencer is suspended in two hooks, and two rubbers. It cannot be moved as such without cutting and welding hooks etc. So it being fixed, the first silencer the gas see, is the long thin one. The longest connecting tube part of this, is meant to point towards the cat. This is not possible in any way, no matter how you cut it: [ATTACH=CONFIG]62405[/ATTACH] Here it can be seen turned around like I did for fitment and flow. 6': the same first silencer is bad made inside. Outside it looks fine, but inside, the gasflow see these three high edges: [ATTACH=CONFIG]62385[/ATTACH] That is very bad for flow, especially on a pressurized engine like the G60 motor or a turbo motor. The thing I did was turn it around, so it fit's better between the cat outlet, and the middle silencer. By cutting a long piece in both ends, I could make it fit exactly. This demands the conical shaped mild steel tube to be cut also in bot ends, and new fitting slicings being made. That would normally not be a problem, but the thing is that there are limits to how much you can cut this device, before it looses structural strength, and becomes floppy and soft, loosing it's shape and becoming deformed. NOT the thing you want to blow a few houndred horsepowers through. Fortunately (or not) I only have 177 (for now), so I cut it, with respect to the two different diameter ends being as long as the diameter plus 1-2 cm. more. This will be on the edge of what I just explained, but once tied up, it hopefullt can hold for a month or so, until I make up a better soloution. Or rather my friend does. He is enourmously experienced in making special charged builds, both in G motors, turboes and kompressors in general, as well as completely homemade special bi cat flappy doored twin sports cat stainless exhausts, made for flowing up to 2 bars pressure on a 700 Bhp R32 engine etc, so hopefullt he'll cut up the system and reweld it or something to fit. So I cut it in both ends, making slices to clamp. 7': That is exactly the next problem. The clamps delivered in the fitting kit is 4 u-bend bolt types, that if fitted will clamp very badly indeed, make dings and bends in your system tubing, and thirdly make the tube ends split open like a flower. This makes it short lived, not tight, and holds badly. These clamps should be throwed out imidiately, and never used on you car or any other car. They are utterly crap. Here's a picture where I use one of the crap clamps because I did not have something else and it was almost midninght. It's in the left side of the conical shaped tupe, which I have cut down in length to fit. To the right is a super quality type clamp, that actually does what it is supposed to - clamp the exhaust parts to sit where you want them endlessly (almost), and is oiginal VW part no. 8L9-253-139A. This is an audi number, but it also sits on a R32 Golf. It's a very good quality and it will not destroy your tubing, making bends, dents etc. Note the position of the clamps, which is not pointing downwards to avoid road inflicted damage, but turned slightly upwards to the side where there's most space, without hitting anything: [ATTACH=CONFIG]62389[/ATTACH] This is a temporary soloution as it is an evening compromise, and I needed it to be back on the Corrado before I travel to the other end of Europe to climb mountains in a few days. The problem is this: 8': Looking at the picture above it is clear, that even though this cat is a good flowing type while being a standard VW type, it still contains some unattractive points, being the strict downsizing to a thin narrowing tube on the exhaust side of the cat. Therefore it is very beneficial for the flow of the complete system, that this is either cut off, and a bigger tube is welded on, or better, a sportscat with a much more free flow is put on instead. I will do the later soloution this summer, when I am back and have time. I will though also credit VW for this exact type of cat, because it have a very long conical shape at in inlet side of itself, and secondly it in not the ordinary ceramical type which is very restrictive, but have the better flowing net like type on heating element to burn the exhaust by-products: See picture down. 9': The placing of the hooks on the rear silencer represents another problem. That is placed too rearward, and should be cut off and rewelded ½-1" more forward, to avoid putting stress on the suspending rubber. I did not have time to solve this too, and it will be remade later on. 10': the next problem is the hook delivered to suspend the rear silencer in. upon using this, it becomes clear, that the rear silencer will hang too low, and look silly. It will therefore also bang and hit the rear axle on the Corrado. This is quite annoying, and will most probably turn a lot of potential buyers off. I will make another hook later on. 11: If you run your Corrado with many upgrade quality parts, like for example KW, or Eibach etc, especially a rear arb in oversize to supplement the front one, the left seam of the rear silencer will have 2 mm space between it and the bolt that holds the rear arb to the rear frame/axle/rear suspention mounting. This shows aain that Simons/Jetex/Ray/whatever did not make this for the Corrado, as they would know that it should have space to accomodate this particular good upgrade. I therefore had to take a sledgehammer and other tools and make a ding in the rear silencer. I won't be seen when mounted, and barely noticable when underneath, but that is truly a nasty thing to do on your new stainless system. Nasty but needed if you want to drive at all. Very bad made by Ray/Jetex/Simons etc. Another thing is that the Powerflex rubbers I bought, lowered the whole system 2,5cm, or 1". Enough to make it impossible to use them. So off they came, and is now for sale if anyone wants them. Never used, but unpacked and only trial fitted. And I also had to adjust the shape of the heat shields a bit here and there to make them not hit the Simons system. I know for a fact, that mine were perfect in shape before. So, the conclusion is this: Think twice before buying. It's a nice made system, though I seriously doubt that any flowing tests have been made. It's stainless, but not fittings and welding that rusts as usual. Putting it on is a more than average joe challenge, and demands cutting, welding and special made tubing before it sits and performs. Having that made, I must say it suits the Corrado and I will eventually make the better flow and fit happen. More later on this. Price is way better in the UK by for example Demons, and almost double the price here in Scandinavia. To make it flow well, a lot of tubing have to be made, incl a modified cat, or a sportscat. Ray steel could make it better in welding and better flow by carefully making a gig that make decent welds, not creating walls inside. That you have to hammer a dent in the rear silencer is also a major dissapointing point as it should be prepared for a propper suspension upgrade, and not hitting anything. A lot of trial and error went into fitting this tonight, plus years of ecperience, so things are tried first, before hitting it with a hammer. Very dissapointing Simons! This hammering is not needed if you do not have an upgrade rear arb! Alternatives are make it yourself from scratch, or buy standard oem VW or another brand. Verdict: That a major downer Simons! And you should admit it and make it better, which I am sure you can. Or sell it for free, to use up stock, and then make a propper one! Will NOT EVER buy Simons/Jetex/Ray/whatever again! Think twice before spending your hard earned money! After: [ATTACH=CONFIG]62401[/ATTACH] As can be seen the rear silencer shall have another hook which places it more nicely, and because it also would be hanging higher, not banging on the rear axle. Soon to come ;) Cheers, Redfox.
  23. Around my waters a Corrado is three times more expensive than say in the UK, but still it attracts me like bee to honey. Because it's not about price, it's not about comfort, not about topspeed, not about an absurd number of electronic gizmos. It's all about the joy of driving it, keeping it and a little looking at it, when having just locked it up and walking away. I don't need a car at all, I almost allways ride my bicycles. I have had a Mk.II for many years, changing it into a small gocart, and liked it. It have a certain charm, but not at all like a Corrado, which costed an insane amount of money when new - 63.000 pounds, and kept it's price well, even after ten years. Newer cars get old too, and get cheaper, so together with the crisis, and a desperate family father who knocked his head every single time he stepped into and out the Corrado, I bought it for a fair amount. Through this last 9 months, I've paid more that I gave for the Corrado in spares ;) I must say I agree with most people here, that the Corrado is a rare, fun, engageing and involving car to drive. It's also not a tall car, and I like them low, them cars. So for me height is also very important. I like exactly the same on my very rare Moto Laverda SFC1000 motorcycle, with only about 250 made/left). Handmade by two brothers in a small Italian town, and backed up 100 % by the villagers who worked there. It's got spirit. Everyone want's one, it's not the price, but only a few are committed to get one and keeping it properly, AND driving the beast, so it'll not turn into a museum piece. Same can be said on the Corrado. The way a propper set up Corrado can swoosh around a corner or through a series of bends, is very very good. Also when compared to modern cars, which for 99,9% are as boring as a used piece of soap. Great car and it put demands to you as driver, so don't be lazy and give it some throttle ;) To sum it up, the Corrado's got spirit, and that is why we chose them ;) A Corrado is a statement about a person wanting a car that is a small compact impossible impractical sportscar that flies. The owner knows it. The other people in trafic knows it. The Corrado knows it. And can be relaxed about it, so no need to prove it all the time to other fast cars. Over time the other fast cars get dull, old and grey. But the Corrado have the integrity to remain itself. That's it. Cheers, Redfox. ps: a Lotus Esprit turbo HC Series 3 (1987) would nearly, only nearly, do that same thing for me ;) And an orange and silver Miura 1967 with golden Campagnolo magnesium wheels ;) pps: Very nice thread ;)
  24. Take a look at this nice one: Cheers, Redfox.
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