Redfox

And follow the thread on here to prevent the well known bulp-fires. Better to prevent. Cheers, Redfox.

Here in Denmark we have 92 octane (nobody buys it), then 95 and 99. In Romania for example, they've introduced 101 octane. Nice ;) I only run mine on 99 and only from the ame company, and only from a separate hose, not a shared one. Yes, in the us it's measured differently, so right on that. Many V8 are made to run on low octane with not so hig compression (standard). In Denmark the 2,8 Liter have 172 Hp and the 2,9 Liter have 190 Hp. The 2,8 were used in Golf, never in Corrado's here. Also the G60 upto 1990 had 160 Hp. After that vw introduced the "P"-head with matching inlet and exhaust, which produced 177 Hp, because of VW Motorsport using them for hill climbing or Bergrennen. There are some nice 16v's still doing that even today. Can be seen on youtube. Anyway there's the Jet model, also only high on equipment, no more Hp's, And then there's the Cabrio and the van models. Ultra rare. Cheers, Redfox.

That's the way to go Rado!!! Kudo's to you. Cheers, Redfox.

Exactly, be a robot for the oncoming ec slavery... ;( Cheers, Redfox.

I just think the prices for BBS RM's and RS's have gone through the roof. Had two set's of RM's and sold them for around 200 GBP a set, all nice and original, and not tampered with. My old set of 15*7" RS's I sold for 700 GBP with 4 brand new Toyo Proxes T1-R in the correct 195/50-15 size. More narrow is dangerous to drive with. In my experience the RM's are inferrior wheels, being soft metal, heavy and not as nice made. Still nice wheels though. But the bolts don't go all the way through, and that may become a problem, once renovated. Now I have a set of 16*7" RS's 4*100mm also. Perfectly straight and original. May keep them for a project in future. So, for a Corrado I would go for the RS model in 16*7" et 28 with 215/45-16 all around, not to destroy the good behaviour af the car. Wider wheels in the rear may send the rear end out in a turn. This is a sportscar after all. Perfectly neutral handeling is what I am after. Also the RS's are lighter, so it makes the handleing better, than with heavy wheels, which can surely be felt. Just my two pence, Redfox.

Today I spent some time with a friend helping me to change the fluid for the hydraulic clutch. Having the ultra fat manual, it dissapoints me big time, as I couldn't find a propper description of how to do, but I am either looking the wrong place, or it's a minor detail, that any VW mechanic will know how to do. Normally It's just pushing new fluid (dot 4) through, but since this baby have the nasty electrinically controlled VW abs (utterly crap), it have to be different (of course) ;) So on with how to do for others to enjoy. - First disconnect the two plugs on top of the fluid container, that sit's on top of the abs unit. - Overfill the container to somewhere midways between the "max" marking and the top of the container. - On the rearside is a hose connected to the clutch cylinder in the rear right side (seen from the font lights on my left side driven Corrado). This is connected to the lower slave cylinder (also with a bleeding nipple) that sit's on top of the gearbox, connected to the clutch, Take off the rubbercap and spray a bit of loosening fluid like wd40, or similar. - Use a 11mm ring spanner to loosen it a little bit, then close it, then connect a propper sized clear plastic tube to the bleeding nipple. - Get a friend to slowly (or moderately) depress the clutch pedal min. 20 times, and HOLD it down. - Turn on the ignition. You should then hear the electronically controlled abs pump push some fluid forward through the system, to get pressure. - Loosen the bleeding nipple apprx. a quarter of a turn, and then close it again. You should see old discolourated fluid pass through the clear plastic tube, into a ½ Liter cola bottle or similar ;) Since cola is toxic, this is a well suited bottle ;) - Have your friend turn the ignition off, and release the clutch pedal. - Pump the pedal again like mentioned above and repeat process many times, until you have fresh clear fluid into your toxic bottle. - Repeat, and remember to refill the container with more fluid. It must never reach the low point. - continue untill the fluid container is at "max" marking or suck it up with a syringe, plastic tube or whatever, if there's a surplus. - Test the function of the clutch pedal. It should be firm, but not hard, and there should be pressure almost from the upper position of the pedal. - Take a test drive and enjoy. Note: After releasing the pedal, it may keep being down. Lift it up manually, and just pump 20 times or more again. Job done. Dispose old fluid propperly into a chemistry crap place or similar , as it is highly toxic, and you don't wan't your good looking neighbour (woman) to have funny children ... ;) This was the way I did it, and it works nicely. Do it a lot of times, and there should be no air or water trapped inside the system. Redo every year (as you of course drive your Corrado very hard) and no probs should arise, otherwise every second year as normally described. The effect pf it was, that I can now change gear more easily. Less of a clunk when going into reverse, and less hassle to get it back into neutral. Quite improved. Cheers, Redfox.

Would really like the leather handles, but I suppose they are already sold. So I would like to ask, if they only fit the new style interrior, or the old one? Cheers, Redfox.

Cleaned up edges and corners behind doorlocks, wheel arch edges, behind petrol flap, draincornersin front of doors edges, underside of doors etc. Then wnet looking at two Dino 246GT. Nice cars ;) Now I'd better go lube the spoiler preventative ;) Cheers, Redfox.

I would be interested in knowing about that too ;) Cheers, Redfox.

Very nice car. Cheers, Redfox.

That's the wat to go! Bigger garage! Respect! Looking forward to see it being built. Cheers, Redfox.

Okay, time for a small update: I finally got around to insert the inflatable backrest supports in the Recaro front seats. It went like this: [ATTACH=CONFIG]68588[/ATTACH] Here's the seats before and after the installing of the pillow. Right, there's nothing to see ;) Then here's one of the pillows before inserting them: [ATTACH=CONFIG]68589[/ATTACH] Here I stick it in behind the backrest leather. Real easy, no fuss: [ATTACH=CONFIG]68590[/ATTACH] Didn't want to shorten the airtube, so just placed it nicely behind the leather, and place the blower where it's most out of sight, AND easy to use while driving: [ATTACH=CONFIG]68591[/ATTACH] Finally, a shot of the inflated backrest support. Can be varied infinetely and it really does a magnificent job on old backs (like mine). It help exactly where many people tend to "fall down" with their back, as it supports the back so it does not get a negatively shape which equalt pain. For the more weightminded of us, these pillows are really light, so they do not slow down your Corrado's performance. Worth taking into considderation :) So get a pair and do it on your Corrado: [ATTACH=CONFIG]68592[/ATTACH] I read on other threads that some people want to sell their Corrado because of bad sitting comfort. I can recommend the Recaro seats for superior sitting support, position and less fatigue. In the same time they are heated, multi adjustable, electric adjustable, and now with air backrest support. ;) That surely must be a good soloution for drivers with back problems. I think this is a great mod, as it's in line of my idea with the Corrado. It needs to be a real driving machine, and many small mods makes it exactly that. Therefore it's worth for me to make sure I have a really good working place/driving position/no hintrance Corrado = more speed in corners ;) Anyway, more will follow later on, as I am not finished with my Corrado seat project. Much later... Cheers, Redfox.

really impressive work. A mean and great looking Corrado. What is the cam cover? Does it offer better cooling? I also want to ask if the Schrick oilpan lowered your oiltemp? and if it hits the ground when driving, as it sits deeper? Cheers, Redfox.

Hi Science, No, I don't have the VDO part number, only the VW Etka number (535-919-561B). From the list you have supplied, would that be the 360-033 part (2936 psi warning version) ? That seems to be warning at 2,06 bar, not 1,8 as in the VW case. Or the 7 psi version from the list? Does that influence anything? Like for example warn when driving normally when warmed up, as the oilpressure would be 2,0 bar? Cheers, Redfox.

HI all, I also installed the late style vdo into my centerconsole. I have the blue/white single wire ready in the engine compartment, and I went to VW to get the special sender. Not available any more ;( Grrrrr... So, does anyone else make it? Can it be bought? Is it sitting in the mounting hole, and the normal oiltemp sensor on top of that new sender? Or is the correct one a two pole sender (wrongly described in Etka)??? Etka page 212-00 is showing it. Only mentioned on page 212-10 as well. Btw. I want to retain the original 1,8 bar warning function. I guess I have to find such a double pole common ground vdo sender. Dead or alive, I want such a sender. Please help ;) please, please, please... Cheers, Redfox.

Hmm, a small update: I finally got around to install the VR6 extra gauges in my G60 pre-facelift. Here's the original wireing that I bought together with the gauges: [ATTACH=CONFIG]68134[/ATTACH] So I spliced out the needed wires from the original wireing and it look like this: [ATTACH=CONFIG]68135[/ATTACH] Then I measure up the size of the extra gauges housing and the compartment in the center-console, and it does not fit, as the compartment is way too narrow to have room for the gauges. Therefore tools and bits and bobs are needed to cut and sand the housing to be adapted to the compartment: [ATTACH=CONFIG]68136[/ATTACH] Then basically I testcut and measured the upper edge of the front face black frame. One the rear of that frame is stamped some numbers. It's about right to cut it with a hacksaw there. I just used a piece of masking tape to have a guideline to saw it straight. A bit of sanding and more testfitting, and it works fine together with the ashtray, which on my pre-facelift 1991 G60 model, have bigger ashtray and cigarettelighter fitment. Then it was time to do some measurement in my cars wireing. I looked around, and behind the fusebox was a blue/white single wire, that happens to lead to the oilpressure feeler in front of the engine. And guess what: it's not connected. So it's just what is needed to give the resistance needed for the oil pressure gauge. The sensor have to be bought. And guess what: VW don't give a rat about spareparts for Corrado's, so it's not available any more. I know, I asked. So get a second hand one, or work wonders.... Come on VW, MAKE THE SPAREPARTS!!! : [ATTACH=CONFIG]68137[/ATTACH] I have now determined what wire is needed for the oilpressure measureing. Then I know that the brown and blue/grey is used generally in the dash to give power to lilght. Theis is exactly the same in the case of the extra gauges lighting. This can be taken from for example the cigarettelighter lighting. I only need one more wire, and there's a total of four wires. That is the black/yellow one. And that is for the voltage measurement gauge. The black/yellow one goes together with the common brown earth, so as mentioned aboce, the blue/grey for lighting up the extra gauges is the only one that you'll need to take from the cigarette lighter wireing. That wire just happens to be hidden in an unused loop behind the centerconsole, so I just freed it up, and connected it: [ATTACH=CONFIG]68138[/ATTACH] I tested the connection at the engine compartment to be sure of it's function, and viola, it works ;) It jsut gives a full reading on the oil pressure gauge, until you have changed to the correct feeler (or rather sender): [ATTACH=CONFIG]68139[/ATTACH] Then I connected it all up, except for fixating the gauges, and it works. Then I had to take a cup of tea and work out a method to fixate the gauges without drilling in the face. I don't like the old style gauges, as it does not look like a original Corrado fitment, even though it is. So I did not want to drill. I came up with the idea to make two small holes in each side on the white rear of the gauges housing, and fasten a small strip. inside that tightened strip, I leaded another one in each side and let the thin ends thorugh a small drilled hole in the rear of the centerconsole storage room. Then I just cut off two stripheads and ziptied one on each end of the strip I just put thorugh, and viola, it sits tight and does NOT rattle ;) And no drilling and ugly screws. The thing is, that the facelifted gauges have a sole 4 pin connector, and the pre-facelift have a few plugs. So I needed to mix that as close to oem as possible. Mission accomplished. No problem at all. It finally came out to look like this: [ATTACH=CONFIG]68140[/ATTACH] I think it looks oem, the lighting is green as the instrumentation and the Blaupunkt cd/radio ;) , and I am very satisfied with the look over the pre-facelift model's look. I hope this can inspire others to make the same simple mod on their car, as I think it's very usefull to have the voltage and oilpressure readable while driving.It's a real sportscar after all! ;) The final look with the Corrado writing: [ATTACH=CONFIG]68141[/ATTACH] ps: sorry for the extremely dirty interrior and the cigarette lighter turned a bit. I just didn't have time to clean it before the picture. Now both corrected ;) Cheers, Redfox.

I would probably repair my Corrado myself, as someone else might make bad repairs, cost me a fortune etc. Buy the parts secondhand, and you'll be positively surprized of what it cost. Labour is more expensive, but if you sort it yourself it's a labour of love. Anyway, if you chose to scrap it, before you do that, think of how to find another one in as good condition, service, lot's of small bit's and parts, lot's of your hours have gone into it. So it kind of sums up to: Repair it yourself, and be lucky that the fat cow didn't drive her nasty ugly lowlife mudracer all over your roof = you're no injured ;) Hope you solve it to your full satisfaction and good luck with that ;) Cheers, Redfox. ps: one day when her misserably lieing life expells, she's going to answer for her doings. Whiplash my ar.. Everything you do, get's back to you in one way or another. Think positively. You're still alive despite her crap driving in her killermachine. And fortunately the police/ambulance men supported you in your standpoint. Not hers.

put in two diode rear blinking bulbs. Works a treat flashing orange on my red tinted rear lights. Cheers, Orangeblinkingfox.

I have the same problem on my new Simons 2½" stainless system. In the package are some new hangers that needs to be installed to make the hanging points work. More or less, as they don't sit correctly anyway, especially the single hanger for the rear of the rear silencer. How about cutting the hangers on the exhaust system, and weld them lower, so they may raise the system, as it sits way too low under the car? Or something else? Cheers, Redfox.

HI all, I am (almost) ready to connect the VR6 model extra clocks (two clocks in one housing) on my 1991 non facelift G60. I have the interrior wireing from the VR6 in case something should miss in my car. Question: Is there any difference between those internal wireing nets (behind the dash)? Question. Do I only need part no. 535 919 561B which is some sort of extender for the connector? Question: should I just connect the blue/white wire to that spade on the (extended) sensor? The rest is kind of simple I think. Hope some of you can give a shout about that, so I can go happier to this years VW meet here in DK ;) Cheers, Redfox.

Okay, so today I took a drive in the sunshine around some nice country roads. The birds were singing, the sun shining etc. etc. But I couldn't hear the birds because of all the terrible squeaking and rattleing inside the Corrado... Upon reaching home, I took the upper black plastic cover on the luggage compartment door off, as here was clearly a squeaking sound on both sides. I repositioned the original felt as here, as tehy had clearly slided far away from their original position: [ATTACH=CONFIG]66621[/ATTACH] Then I looked at the clips that hold the plastic trim, and bent them a bit to squeeze harder as here: [ATTACH=CONFIG]66625[/ATTACH] Thinking that this is not enough, I cut some pieces of black felt and double taped them on, as here: [ATTACH=CONFIG]66629[/ATTACH] Then these two nasty little pieces of trim was tested and felted too, and put back like this: [ATTACH=CONFIG]66633[/ATTACH] Then I felted the two little areas on the rear speaker shelves, that the parcel shelf slides into. Then off for a test drive, which turned out to be SUCCESSFULL ;) Two irritating sounds less! Now I can hear some less noisy sounds from the c-pillar trim pieces, so that is the next area to look into. Argh! My new cigarette lighter is rattleing when clipped into place (not when I hold it in the hand). More later, Redfox.

Hmm, the page went nuts, so a last comment; I did not have to adjust any cable, I have the old version, where both are adjusted above the gearbox. Just loosen one nut at a time, and centralize them. But as I said, I didn't have to. Gearshift is surely shorter, and just perfect. I just want to strengthen the spring that centralizes the gearstick left-right. Mine was faster and stronger. Will report back on that if I find out. I took a spin, and it surely handles shifts better and quicker ;) All Corrado's should have one. Thanks to Dave16v from this site, for making my shortshift. Give him a shout, as this is a must have for all Corrado's. Cheers, Redfox.

Finally an update, while watching LeMans: The travel and the quality of the gearshift in the Corrado's leaves something to be desired. So time for a shortshift. I chose the one from Dave from this forum, and it works nicely, precise and... short travel. [ATTACH=CONFIG]66101[/ATTACH] First I took off the gearknob and leather surround: [ATTACH=CONFIG]66125[/ATTACH] Unscrewed the obd connectors and put them aside: [ATTACH=CONFIG]66129[/ATTACH] Took off the front horizontal bolt that holds the rod and spring: [ATTACH=CONFIG]66133[/ATTACH] Then loosened the two console bolts: [ATTACH=CONFIG]66137[/ATTACH] Then loosened the rod itself: [ATTACH=CONFIG]66149[/ATTACH] I took the rod off with out taking the exhaust off, by grinding this bit away to make space for taking the rod off. tilted the mech downwards towards myself, and levered it a bit to the left. Then the rod came out quite easy: [ATTACH=CONFIG]66157[/ATTACH] The I took off the gearstick, and took away the little lower clip: [ATTACH=CONFIG]66161[/ATTACH] I took the lever out the gearstick and inspected for old lost clips etc, and greased up everything incl. the lower ramp where the ball is sliding: [ATTACH=CONFIG]66165[/ATTACH] I greased up where things connect, and slided in the new modified shortshift: [ATTACH=CONFIG]66169[/ATTACH] Place the remaining parts in reverse order, and it's done. I spent 1½ hour. I gave the grided a bit of rustprotection and Flash red:

Hi, I would like to buy the plactic charger top cover and bracket for the listed 10 gbp plus postage to Denmark if possible. Cheers, Redfox.

Ah, good to hear that. Cheers, Redfox.