jonnykillpop

How much you wanting for it, your in Edinburgh are you?

P.S. Just noticed your Did Have and Now Have, been thinking of buying another VW, still keep this Corrado I think, and fancy a R32 engined Corrado, if could find really nice one or a MK4 R32 Golf, se you've had both, which is Best? 4 Motion Golf is it? Are all the R32 Golf's 4 wheel drive, excuse my ignorance used to be an old Ford man.

The CAT could well be the original, had the standard VW exhaust on before I recently changed, I'm thinking the CAT could be partially clogged, it does pop on the overrun a bit, not sure if normal for VR6, suspect not as much as it is, if little improvement over a new cat could be big improvement over an old partially clogged one? Plus the CAT's the fattest and lowest part of the exhaust and scrapes just slightly if come out of my garage at certain angle and a few multi stories. Anyone got a decat the wanna sell?

There was thing on Fifth Gear last night, had a VR6 Corrado (very nice white one, looked just like mine) with 96 000 miles, Dyno'd it and was making 177 bhp, they then lobbed a bottle of Redex through it and made 184, then changed oil, filter (standard), new set of NGK plugs and new set of leads and was up to 189 bhp, (1 bhp below factory from day one) a real testament to how good the VR6 is and lasts. Guessing there'll be a run on Redex over the next few weeks, that's over 1 bhp per pound, probs 2 bhp if ya buy it at Asda. P.S. I was fancying a decat anyway, and would expect that would be one of biggest simple bhp improvements you could make given the choking nature of Cats, anybody know what BHP increase that would bring. My engine only got bout 10 000 or so on it, and got Induction kit and SS Exhaust CAT Back so should be 190 bhp at least, would it make over 200 with Decat? (Don't think Induction makes much bhp diff but does sound amazing! that really why got it)

Yes looks like was plugs, Europarts and CTS do the single electrode ones but hav'nt had chance to get there in opening hours so took number 2 out, which seemed to be the slightly misfiring one, and gap prong to electrode clearly more than 0.7, difficult to measure but I'd say 1.0 or more, did'nt even try adjusting, put an old plug in that seemed closer to 0.7 (still the NGK twin electrode)though a little big and no misfire. I'll get set of single electrodes on weekend and expecting it to go better again, plus can check and adjust the gap on these perfectly, any time. The plugs have only been in couple of thousand miles or so, colour/condition of them perfect, was slight misfire not total, but deffo will be avoiding them in future.

Cheers think I'll try the single electrode ones, never had probs with NGK's in past on different cars, but never liked the idea of the spark travelling down the insulation but assumed NGK know what their doing. Anyone know what the gap should be but can't really measure or adjust with normal gapping tool or feeler as go to rounded insulation. I think the gap is too big or something, or does'nt like running down insulation, spark is strong as hell, was jumping over an inch to bodywork. Can spark be too strong, and track through any insulation?

Hello, my VR6 has had 2 sets of VW Leads, Magnecors, and is now on a set of 10mm Red Beru ones been on for few months. Always develops a slight misfire after a while, all leads seem fine when tested off car. The latest Beru's were perfect until last week and slight misfire starts. Taking off with the tool and putting back one normally cures for bit, but these Beru ones and the VW ones never seem to come loose like some cheaper ones. Had new coilpack, cam and crank sensor, MAF, lambda, blue temp. etc. etc. pretty much new everything, and abosultely perfect until slight misfire. The spark is really strong when take lead off and attach lead (any lead) but seems very keen to track the spark from the metal lead holder bit at end to the bodywork. Only ever had the NGK twin electrode plugs, the ones where the spark is meant to jump down the insulation if you know what I mean, I'm starting to suspect them, anyone had probs? You can't measure the gap with a normal feeler guage as goes from the insulation to tip not tip to tip. Gap too big? Spark trouble jumping to insulation? Only got the NGK's as heard came out factory with these. Anyone tried any other good plugs with tradition electrode tips? Hard Bosch's getting a right slagging on here I think.

FPR should'nt get that hot full stop, certainy not after couple of minutes, it's knackered, it's 167 and ECU is 109 from memory neither should get hot

My VR6 suffered from a constant drone/moaning sound from rear but only seemed to occur on odd occasions my wifes mother was getting a lift in the back. She's now been banned to my wifes car only and the noise has never recurred.

Had similar prob hot starting and was just the fuel pump relay, take the cover off the fuse box after run feel the fuel pump relay if it's pretty hot to the touch needs changing, mine was feeling very hot just touching cover so imagine what the workings are like inside, give it 15 mins to cool and started fine. Swapped mine for relay in wifes little Seat(same one 167 from memory and started straight away) then got new one plus ecu relay which was getting bit too warm too, and perfect starting since. Cheap easy fix so worth looking at first. (Had exactly same prob on few high tuned V6 Capri's, big hot V6's, relays sit exactly same place in drivers footwell, and manifolds run close drivers side bulkhead, their gonna oveheat and give up eventually)

P.S. If your Pressure Regulator is dodgy I'm told 5 bar ones which you can get for VR6 are better anyway and VW only fitted 4 bar one for emission regs. and slightly better mpg figures, but for everyday running does'nt really effect, though hav'nt tried one myself.

Yeah it is or my VR6 always had 4 bar since bought it, and yes the 1.8t fits as got one in garage and fitted when had similar prob., mine turned out to be the crank sensor (also take rubber bung of plug and check wiring at end most of them are frayed or nearly worn through) but hesitation was mainly a brand new Lambda sensor from Europarts which turned out to be dodgy, ran better disconnected. They did change it no bother and now runs perfect. Also had new coilpack, 10mm Bremi leads, cam sensor, and TPS,temp sensor and MAF turns out nothing much wrong wi the old ones but never hurts to have spares of all these, and now running incredibly well, but the crank sensor and lambda were deffo the culprits. Check your MPG, with bad crank sensor was showing 16 to 19 tops, soon as changed 25 min even when screwing it, over 30 on a motorway taking it easy. If ya local, South Shields, Tyne and Wear, or if anyone local having similar probs ya welcome to come round and fit any of these bits to eliminate, as pretty much full set of spares now. I refitted the Corrado Fuel pressure thing as though nearly identical the Corrado's has much bigger diameter hole at end, and mine looked just about new (mine had new engine shortly before bought it so probs is) had the 1.8t one fitted when had dodgy lambda in and made neither better or worse.

My VR6 is a coilpack so does'nt have the cold start valve, but I've also got a 2.8 injection Capri, had loads of them, and has exactly same cold start valve and they can leak and dribble might give you higher idle and rich running rich even when not connected, you can take it off and run if plug hole should run cold start valve will operate for few seconds if cold enough then stop, if keeps going it's bust. Also had a 3.1 Stage 2 engined Cologne V6 with it wired up as a 7th injector, worked well, but Capri's don't have ECU's probs. would'nt work with an ECU car, would wreck settings. P.S. probs got a spare Capri one in garage somewhere.

The oil temp will display dasshes until it's reached bout 70 degrees or so, the outside temp is a sensor down by the front grill, next to towing point, maybe gave up or just needs a clean, mine has'nt got sensor on, so does'nt display on mfa but can't say ever bothered me, presume it's just display and does'nt effect engine management, unless anyone knows differently, it's got plug just never had sensor attached

Posted this for VR6 but will apply to 4 cylinder too think Mine would'nt start sometimes when hot, give 15 to 20 mins and was fine, someone suggested fuel relay and as nobody had in stock local swapped for fuel relay in my wifes 1.2 Seat Ibiza, exactly same part number (relay 63 from memory) and been fine since. (Listen for fuel pump priming when hot if won't start if is'nt good chance it's relay and only a few quid, so worth swapping) Got new one since but until read this forgot to swap my wifes back and put new one in, but my wifes Seat never had a problem with my VR6 dodgy one in, maybe because the Seat never gets as hot and does'nt overheat it.

Had exactly that prob. on few of my 2.8 injection capris and always the fuel accumulator (FPR on Corrado) so safe bet it's that

As title my rear engine mount on 94 VR6 dohc is angled, got a new one as bolt was snapped, proper VW one, but flat top mount, thought sent me wrong one but people are telling me there all flat, like front one or gearbox one. It's not bent or anything clearly been manufactured this way, engine sits fine, even got a front strut brace and engine sits perfect under t. Car lowered with Koni's all round 17 wheels, everything sits right. Car had lot of work done before I bought it, suspension, engine rebuild, full respray etc. all to high standard so presumably like this for a reason. Had to drill and retap, but was hoping temp. fix, where can I get a replacement top plate? Used the new mount but had to use old top plate. P.S. When I say angled the centre stem the top bolt screws into is straight on front and gearbox mount andd new mount, but angled on rear, so top plate sits maybe 20 degrees from horizontal, are some like this or a one off? First Corrado owned so I would'nt know.

Mine would'nt start sometimes when hot, give 15 to 20 mins and was fine, someone suggested fuel relay and as nobody had in stock local swapped for fuel relay in my wifes 1.2 Seat Ibiza, exactly same part number (relay 63 from memory) and been fine since. (Listen for fuel pump priming when hot if won't start if is'nt good chance it's relay and only a few quid, so worth swapping) Got new one since but until read this forgot to swap my wifes back and put new one in, but my wifes Seat never had a problem with my VR6 dodgy one in, maybe because the Seat never gets as hot and does'nt overheat it.

I just replaced my Cam Sensor, was showing up on Vagcom, running fine but seems a little thirsty still, do I need it reset on Vagcom, clear codes etc. My mates got Vagcom, got diagnosed then went away got part, proper VW one, and fitted myself, did'nt put back on Vagcom.

I'd also check your Cam Sensor Unit that was my underlying problem with hesitation, slight misfire etc., Europarts do new VW ones for £55.00, takes 10 mins to change, Shows up as Hall Sender on Vagcom. And thanks for the offer Jonny but if I dont buy new I cant be 110% that the part is/isnt responsible for the hesitation Im getting.....

I bought a new VW one, as was having misfiring probs. and everybody reckoned coilpack was weakpoint but turned out to be the Cam Sensor, and slightly ropey leads. Old coilpack is reading exactly same OHMS as new one, no cracks splits or anything, did cover face of it in epoxy on someones advice but could'nt even see any hairline cracks and no sparking or anything at night, checked all that. Was gonna keep as a spare but can't see needing, would expect the VW one to last. It's a Beru, not sure if from VW, does'nt look age of car, car had new engine before I got it and would imagine was changed then but could'nt promise it, if your in market. Also got a set of VR6 Magnecor KV85's I'm about to put on Ebay, only used for bout 5000 miles tops, you've got to cut the plastic tabs off the lead channels and they fit in, fatter than standard ones, but I've just got new engine covers and don't want to cut the new ones off, and as got new set of standard leads there put them back on.

Hello, was thinking of changing my front mount on VR6, old one looks past best but no totally gone. I've got a brand new left rear VW one in garage, obviously bottoms or different but is top and insert the same, i.e. could I use it, was thinking would prefer VW one than a pattern one. Would be easy enough to remove but looks like good chance top bolt would shear removing it, fine if the rear one fits, but not if got to order decent one from somewhere.

Hello, was thinking of changing my front mount on VR6, old one looks past best but no totally gone. I've got a brand new left rear VW one in garage, obviously bottoms or different but is top and insert the same, i.e. could I use it, was thinking would prefer VW on than a pattern one, which you've just confirmed. Would be easy enough to remove but looks like good chance top bolt would shear removing it, fine if the rear one fits, but not if got to order decent one from somewhere.

Cheers good idea, think I'll set mine up the same.

Yeah I could easily change mine to that, I already took the PCV out anyway, having a big loop with catch can just gives more opportunity for an vacuum leak. Runs well like that? Just one of those mini filters you can pick up on Ebay, or Halfords was it? How long does your catch can take to fill up by way, or fill halfway up say? Think I'll try it.