kongo127

That grey car was my first G60. The sticker says LD7Y. Stock painting! :) I miss him...

I don´t know how often you see a Corrado in UK or even in the rest of the world. :?: I have only seen a couple of colours like Tornado Red, Black, Grey. :wink: My car really needs a new painting, so it´s booked to the paint shop. Anyway i´m tempted to change its colour, i know the available colours, and i want to keep an original one. 8) I would like at least to see some pictures from colours that i never saw before, to help me to take the decision. :roll: Like me, i´m certain that there are more Corrado brothers, who would like to see them. I wonder if there is any possibility that people can post here their stock colours, along with their name and colour code... :D Cheers!

mr_fusion, Nice Find!

The water termostat is mechanical and attached to the water pump. Your problem is not related with the blue temperature sender, this one only tells the ECU the water temperature for timing / enrichment purposes. The black sender, which is located next to the blue one is for cluster temperature readings. These senders are not interchangable. It would be such a coincidence to get water sender and oil temperature sender defficient at the same time. So i guess that there´s something going wrong. Hot wire the radiator fan to see if it´s working properly. Then turn the engine on and watch the radiator fan behaviour according to the water temperature seen on the cluster. You may also touch the water hoses to figure which way the water is passing through, to understand what´s the state of the mechanical water pump termostat (open/clese). Hope this helps!

Well there is something wrong for sure mate, because you´re having oil and water temperatures issues. Could it be the water pump termostat? Did you noticed you radiator fan working on both speeds? Keep posting!

A similar situation happened to a friend of mine on his Polo G40. He attached the oil feed pipe into the wrong hole. He run the charger for about 4000km when he started to hear a strange noise from the charger. I did a complete rebuild for him, it´s amazing how the charger didn´t got damaged. It would get damaged if he didn´t stop driving the car, as the noise that he was hearing was the displacer bearing completly sized and worn out!

Are you using the correct lambda probe? If the fuse keeps blowing it only means that the 12v wire is having some sort of contact to ground.

Thanks Blue_Joe!!! :)

Genuine VW G60 Blue Temperature Senders are 16Eur over here!

Does anyone know i can buy that re-facing tool???

I have a spare one in good working condition nearly new. Original from Bosch with connector.

Sometimes i can undo the pulley´s bolt with a 17mm spanner and a quick hit with a hammer (with the belt in position). Other times i undo the belt, and use a spare crappy belt to put around the pulley to help. You can always go to a tire shop where they have those pneumatical guns, making it easier to come of.

Crank and water pump pulleys bolts won´t be easy to take out for the first time! Put some WD40 a couple of hours before doing the job. Don´t re-use the bolts. As far as i remember, you don´t need any special tools, but some quality tools! Keep posting! :)

west-sidereason, Can you supply me the part-number for those beautiful pins / surround? Cheers,

Good point :roll: the rallye also has the better outlet for the charger and supposed to have a higher map sensor? This is a very good question... I have never realised this... But i´ve done the IC conversion! It´s a huge difference, i can tell it!

WOW!!! That´s a beautiful charger! I´m impressed! Keep on the good work GWerks!!!

dr_mat is correct! This is the After-Run circuit that operates a couple of minutes after you switch of the car. You can hear the fuel pump running and also the radiator fan. You can try to disconnect the 1 pin temperature sender that is located on the throttle body to see if you problem remains.

I had the idea that the knock sensor detects the first pinking for the cylinder afected and then starts to retard iginition timing till the pinking disapears... Of course that this process is done very quickly. By my experience, i couldn´t go further than 8 deg. unless run 100ron fuel. This depends on each engine, because each one is different than the other one. These are the safe ignition timing values that i found for G60´s without any pinking: - 6deg for 95ron - 7deg for 98ron - 8deg for 100ron Keep in mind that atmosferic temperatures make a lot of difference!

I love it! Is this pearl grey effect or graphite grey? Nice work!

The paint job looks fantastic! Really shiny! Is this a respray job or did you remove all the paint? Nice car though the roof is a bit strange, or maybe just different to me!

Hello Trakx! Where abouts are you located? I´m in Lisbon! Corrado T60... Sounds nice! LOL

150 PSI = 12 BAR Sounds a lot for a G60! Is your engine modded? I assume you did the test taking only one spark plug out at each time, right?

Welcome to the forum mate! Is there any special reason for this swap? A well tuned G60 supercharged is a lot of fun! Anyway you may have a search on the forum, you´ll find many useful information! Regards from Portugal!

We all know that VW quotes high for parts. But our cars run and drive like VW´s because they use quality parts. If they had cheap parts / poor quality they would not be as they are. So... Almost all Corrados are aged 14, with stock bearings. I wouldn´t mind to buy a new set of original bearings again, knowing that they will last some more 14 years! I would deffinatly go for the FAG brand bearings, instead of buying the same ones more expensive at VW or even some poor quality ones at other shop. Try your local FAG / INA supplier!

If i remember correctly, the original bearings are made by FAG.