seanl82

Haha, I know that feeling of nervous anticipation! I'm sure it'll look great! Are they sending you any pics of the process, or are you planning on 'just popping in as you were in the area'? lol

Welcome back! looks a very nice standard example. 👍

Nope, full set. One certain member seems to bag all the bargains, and that is an absolute steal!

Yeah but for such a small order, they'll be even more expensive than buying from the dealer!! lol. Its the 10.9 tensile load bearing ones with non standard thread pitch I'm worried about. The others with standard thread pitch I'm happy to replace with stainless. I think I've sorted all the bolts now, its just the clips & clamps I need now. 👍

20% buyer premium!

Thanks Keyo, thats an option certainly. I've found the carrier bolts too. Thought, wait a minute. They're the same as the mk3 288 carriers so checked them. Sure enough, the part number is N90708502 and they're available through heritage. 👍

Evening all, I've picked up a load of bolts today from VW, but there were quite a few that are NLA so they've issued me a refund on most of them. I've managed to find a lot through VW Heritage so will be making an order there shortly, but there are a few I'm still unable to locate. If anyone has an alternative part number or knows where else to get them, I'm all ears! N90184501 - Steering rack mount bolt (through subframe) - M8x75x33 - (x4) N90144203 - Water pump pulley bolt - M8 x 11 rounded hex head (got 2, so 1x required) N90708501 - Front caliper carrier bolts - M12x1.5x35 - (x4 (both sides)) Not bolts; 192422941 - PAS pipe clip - I would consider second hand as mine broke when removing the pipes 357422839 - outer steering rack boot clamp 357422837 - inner steering rack boot clamp - I made a mess of the inner and outer ear clamps whilst trying to crimp them, so if anyone knows the size and where best to get replacements I'd appreciate it. My current steering rack and pulley bolts aren't in bad nick, but I'd like to replace with new if possible. The carrier bolts are looking a bit ropey however, so these are priority. Thanks in advance. :-)

How does the rotating arm/contact look? The bearing could also be worn, meaning the contact is impacting the cap contacts very slightly and wearing them or incorrect spark gap

Ahhhh, £150!!!!!!!! Always you first to the punch!

Ah makes sense mate. Was it single skin before? There are quite a few 70s built bungalows surrounding our house of non standard construction and single skin, which suffer awfully with damp. Ours isn't the best but with foot thick stone walls and no cavity so poor insulation, no air bricks and the only window/door vents from the French doors we put in, it's understandable. No mains gas to our village either so costs a fortune in heating oil bills in the winter months as we have to open the windows for a couple of hours every day to get some air flow!

Well done mate, looks a huge amount of work! I'm sure you had reason, but it surely would have been easier to level of and start a build from scratch!?

I'll post some pics Chris. I only got it as it was the only option from the place I got the paint and cavity wax, and only worked out a couple of quid really as it pushed my order over the free postage threshold!

There are a couple on the previous page mate. I've been over it again since, but you get the picture. There are before pics a few pages back too, it was minging under there originally! Probably spent 24+ hours in total cleaning it (not all in one go or I'd have been overcome by the fumes!) Hard work, upper body aching like mad every time, thinners and gunk in my eyes countless times (yes I should have learned and worn goggles), and hands in bits from catching on studs and rashes from the thinners all over my forearms. Not a job for the faint hearted, unless you have the car on a spit which would have made it soooo much easier from the get go!

Stripped any underseal back to clean metal/primer and wire wheeled bits that needed it around the studs and hangers etc. Thankfully there were no nasty surprises and its all solid with no rot, just a bit of surface rust within a few mm of where it was covered. I've treated those areas with rust converter and primed it all ready for new underseal. After investigating over the past week or so, the old VW D003 500 is obsolete and NLA anywhere. The Dinitrol 447 is apparently close to factory finish, but it would need painting anyway so I've ordered some Gravitex in white and a couple of aerosols of classic green as well as some cavity wax. Have to make the best of a bad situation and short of completely stripping all the underseal off and re-applying, the best option seems to be to attempt to feather it in, and go over as best as possible with the paint so it doesn't stand out quite as much. There is some overspray under there anyway from when it was factory painted, so fingers crossed it doesn't look too out of place. I could re-coat the whole underside with the underseal, but I don't have a compressor and for such a large area, I'm reluctant to paint it all on by hand and do a poor job which just looks like its hiding a multitude of sins. I've also spent a huge amount of time cleaning it so I don't want to just cover over it either! lol

Full on rebuild there Chris, coming on leaps and bounds!

Me too! Tell him I said hello, it's been a while! Looking good Martin, you're picking up some momentum now. 👍

There are early and late types. The late types are 5 pin if I remember correctly, and the also have a red 9 pin (I think) plug which goes below

Not too difficult Chris, just be careful of the guides on the pillar trims that the clips slot into and the front screen trim as if the windscreen has been replaced previously, there can sometimes be mastic holding it on inside. Remove the headlining out of the rear hatch.

Your intermittent wiper is programmable. You set the time interval by having it on intermittent when turning the key, and the time you take to put it back to off sets it. 😉

Did all those when I did the rest of the engine bay bits in 2014. Still look like new now.

I've still got the rubbers, but lost one of the pads since the respray unfortunately

No mate, it's on already, just needs rivetting into place. The car will rarely be in the wet so content it'll last.

They're on later cars I believe. Early ones had the brake ducting

Thanks Doc, I was being a numpty. Skirting and furnishings are all done now too, but don't have photos yet Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

Wow, great work there Chris. Tapatalk won't let me upload pics unless I subscribe to VIP....