seanl82

Dunno, if its French the chances are it'll give up and fall to pieces pretty quickly! :lol:

Its panel filter only for the KR mate. Complex air/fuel mixture within the metering head doesn't allow for cone filter or anything else. Not much point changing from standard imo.

The reason I got it from Heritage was that it was about £9 from VW iirc! Yeah I know I'm a tight git!! No worries about the heads up. Where the two bolts attach the dizzy to the block, you can see the holes go round with the seat of the dizzy if you know what I mean. This means you can advance/retard the timing through the dizzy by twisting it round forward and back. To ensure its as was, mark the top of the dizzy and do the same on the block. This ensures they go back on in exactly the same place when re-fitting. You then know you've not put the timing out from how it was before you started.

No mate, you need to remove the distributor itself to get to them. The seal in the link is the main seal from the dizzy to the block, and the second one is accessed by removing the rotor shaft itself by removing it as well. I'll try and find the link now that I had when doing it. Here is the seal in the link - http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=replacing%20distributor%20seal%20corrado&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CE4QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fthe-corrado.net%2Fshowthread.php%3F39965-Distributor-and-Seal&ei=ebT6T9mRO8OR0AWb0sH_Bg&usg=AFQjCNEKP970YPRRbdB-ceyjCmnGpQEFBQ The other is accessed by removing the black rotor part. There is a retaining pin that needs to be knocked out and the shaft kinda disassembled to get to it. Its for a KR but no doubt the same. http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=190271 Make sure you mark where the dizzy sits in relation to the block before hand too. It'll need to be re-timed otherwise. :thumbleft:

There are no seals in the cap itself, there are two in the dizzy to stop it coming through. I changed my main one, http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_spares_Seal-for-distributor-Golf-Mk2-16v_act_shop.product_pID_48418815_lang_EN_country_GB.htm?crumbStartPage=1&crumbStartRow=1 to no avail. There is also another, but it requires the dizzy to be disassembled. I never got round to doing this though before she died a horrible death. :censored:

Alright Paul, not entirely certain, but pretty sure it won't I'm afraid mate. Thanks for bump though as they are still available! I'm moving in a few weeks so may go on ebay if no one wants them.

Have a look on VWVortex. Those crazy yanks may have tried it, or something similar using bike TBs. Dunno how much difference it'll make tbh, but using bike carbs gives a little extra in the power department, but that's only achieved by bunging tons of fuel in! Other option is ITB's which apparently yield better results.

Its had no detrimental affect on Lamborghini, so I don't think it will make a huge difference. It stabilises the company and improves QC I think, so Win Win! (Not that there was ever any question of quality within Porsche tbf.)

Such a shame, if she had her super licence, she could have had her first F1 drive last week as well.

Has anyone actually tried VW for this! My local dealer sell 5l Sinta Silver for £18!!

So true! I've not bid on many things due to this fact, as I just assume its from some young un' thats pushed it to its limit. Wrong and stereotypical I know........................

Im still waiting for the cheque! Mine was declared a CAT B write off. Think there is some problem with liability, although a bloke driving into a stationary car shunting us all forward into each other should be open and shut! I only got £1200, I was told to hold out for more, but Im moving in 3 weeks so didnt need the hassle. It is more than twice what I paid for it too!. I bought it back for £34.20 though!!! Sold it to be broken for £175 so made a few quid there as well.

As above, or the cat itself. If you replaced the engine though, would you do it yourself? I'd steer well clear of an engine from a prehistoric rocco though! Best option imo would be an abf from a mk3 golf 16v. Can easily be had for £150 nowadays. Factor in fluids and filters, new clutch, all gaskets and anything else you fancy and your still gonna have change from £500. Nice smooth reliable engine, and a small bump in power to boot!

Your cleaning the throttle body (kinda the same thing as a carb in old money) so thats a srtart. Im assuming he means the cork seal on the metering head, and its the seal on top of the airbox that the metering head sits on. ISV is a small cylindrical item that sits just to the right of your inlet mannifold. It sits in a round rubber retaining ring, and has an electrical connector on the end of it. It also buzzes when the ignition is switched on. To locate it if your unsure, switch your ignition on to turn two then back off a couple of times, and look for the thing thats buzzing.

Much easier if you can get it on the ramps again. The hub is often a biatch to get off though!!!

Yeah I had an MOT failure certificate for an excessively corroded front subframe. (Previous Owner). Not sure if they're still available, but I should imagine not as their specific to the C. The one fitted to mine after the failure was a second hand one I believe.

Maybe someone has planted a bomb inside the car!!!! :bomb::lol: As said its most likely a relay.

Fan switch fuses under the expansion tank

seems a lot of hassle and expense for no real gains if their life span is the same anyway..........:shrug:

Are you definately getting fuel too? Do you have an immobiliser? My old immobiliser was the cause of my problems after it got a little wet after I changed my heater matrix. Very common for any electical problems of this nature to be caused by old ones.

Have you tried disconnecting the MAF and starting it? Only reason I ask is that if your K&N is the older oiled type, it can play absolute havoc with the filament, and Kill MAFs in very short order. I may be way off the mark, but its worth a try!

Has decent feedback too tbf. Bit naughty using someone else's car in the pic though.

I had a look on ebay and eventually found one supplier for the regulator, as it was specific to the model number. You will obviously need the serial numbers off your Alt to cross reference there. Other than that, there are alternator/starter motor/battery shops around, (usually tucked away in some grubby part of town) that could source them for you. There is a grubby little shop on the road into town down here that do the above. Google it, you may come up with something local to you. The ones on ebay were about £11 iirc.

Its obvious its getting you down, and as you hate work so much, its never gonna get any better. Go with the Bakery job for the time being, but continue actively searching for another job. There will be one that comes available, be it in a week, a month, or a year. If you're really unhappy mate, don't continue to put yourself through it. You can then leave with a decent reference, and with dignity. Best of luck with whatever you decide. :thumbleft:

Ah got you, sorry. Here, I'm afraid I'm out. I'm sure someone here will know a bit more, but I fear its a bit late now......... I'm sure if you get stuck, a live feed from elsewhere will suffice though.