seanl82

No, there is a tiny little retaining screw. I couldnt see it even with the guide showing me exactly where it was. In the end I just smashed the old switch out and a small part was left in there being held by the screw into the column. Its best once you've removed the shroud, to remove the drivers seat and lay a pillow or two on the bracket, then lye down and use the brake pedal as a head rest. U need to do it all from below. It should become apparent when your down there!:thumbleft:

I cant fault my dealerships parts desk. If I phone (generally with part numbers) asking for prices, and no one at the parts desk is available, they take my name, number, and details of what I want, and I can guarantee a call back within 15 minutes with a list price etc. Both the guys that work on the desk know me by name now, and always give me a 10 - 20% discount dependant on how much I'm spending! :cheers:

Not sure, I've replaced mine beginning of April, (just before 1st MOT since ownership) because there was play in them, and looking at previous MOT's they had been changed, or were an advisory on 5 of the last 6 years! Remember that because they are tapered, they expand sideways and therefore should not be done up tight! (Trust me I know, I made that mistake and destroyed 2 sets of bearings and a stub axle to boot!). £31.69 from VW a couple of months ago, but I dont have the part number sorry.

It had a RR tune at TSR in Nov 08 with the last cambelt change done by them too. I've not touched the Co but read that it should be checked too. I'm relatively confident with changing the cambelt myself, but I've just been a bit overwhelmed with all the other variables to take into account on this setup. I'll ask on the local forum as theirs obviously golf2 valvers that require someone with a bit of knowledge to set them up properly, that are relatively local. :thumbleft:

Hi Gents, I'm a bit of a novice when it comes to early ignition systems etc, and having recently read that the KR really should be run on V-Power (or similar high octane fuel), and the fact I've just changed my dizzy seal, I'm a little worried about the timing, and pinking and all that it entails. :brickwall: I had a bit of trouble (being the retard that I am!) and put the dizzy securing bolts in the wrong holes first of all! By doing that, I managed to scrape off the tipex I'd used to mark where it was originally. I've got it all back and running what I believe to be relatively well (idle seems good, revs up properly, and sounds ok to me) but I'm just a bit worried about pinking and whether I'd hear it before damage is done. Car is used as a daily too btw. I have a new cambelt kit to fit too, so should I do this then take it straight to a specialist to time and tune it properly (CO probs needs setting up too I suppose), or am I just being a little over anxious? End of essay, thanks guys.

Does your driveshaft still have the anti-vibration damper on it? (Round rubber ring). Friend had a similar problem recently on his Starlet GT.

Get the ignition switch from vw mate, it was about £22 iirc, have a look in the part number thread in general car chat, I put it up a few months ago when I changed mine. Dont need new keys or anything, google it, it may come up. Its a bit fiddly, but not difficult, just the tiny little retaining screw that stumped me for a while! Disconnect the battery and you'll be safe don't worry! ---------- Post added at 5:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 5:23 PM ---------- Sorry dude, bum steer there! Parts numbers are in suppliers forum, and I forgot to put the price there anyway! Just had a look at receipts and it was £26.89, although that may or may not have been with 10% discount they sometimes give me. :thumbleft:

I cant find the wiki guide either, and yeah I'd go with ign switch. May just be coincidence about weather types but that would be my first port of call mate.

I shagged my immobiliser when changing my matrix cos i got it wet. It stated but the radio wouldnt switch on, then the windows wouldnt work, then it wouldnt start. I'd completely remove it if I were u for peace of mind anyway. pull a spark plug and earth it on the block. crank the car over to see if it sparks. I did all this, changed fuel pump relay and ignition switch before going for the immobiliser. Hope this helps mate.

Ah my apologies, I'll get my coat now!

I just punch a long screwdriver through the filter and use that to wrench it off. Always worked when the filter wont budge with a strap/chain wrench. Just prime the filter and put some oil on the seal before refitting to ensure it doesn't happen again. :smug:

Not engine out, but gearbox off I'd assume. Reckon somewhere in the region of £150-£200

Have a look on detailing world. Quite a few of the Pro's have been using it during the hosepipe ban, but I suppose when they're mopping it afterwards it doesn't really make much difference. I personally cant see how it won't harm paintwork in the long run. :shrug:

I used to top up with v-power in my Saab when doing a run actually. Noticable difference in power delivery and smoothness whilst cruising, and as I used to go to Bristol twice a month, I did a comparison between the v-power and 95 RON, and MPG was pretty much improved meaning the price difference was swallowed up. (I forget exact figures now). I used to treat it every time I went up.

First I've heard of that mate. Never run it on super and never heard of any problems by not doing so. In fact the majority of the time my fuel is supermarket ****e too as its the closest to home. Only highly tuned cars require higher octane ratings in fuel, and very very few standard cars are recommended this from the factory.

Changed the thermostat for the third time this year. Genuine this time, yes yes I've learned my lesson! Had to change block-cooler-water pump hose as it had a small split and slight leak, topped up after all this to notice that actually my leak is coming from the water pump! :censored: So its all coming off again tomorrow! Also dropped sump and cleaned out the pickup, deffo needed it too! Changed oil and filter, dizzy, rotor, plugs and leads, rear wiper, expansion tank and cap. Got fed up so that was it. Fuel filter and cambelt kit next w.end now.

Used to love Cherry Brandy and Coke. Cherry Coke............mmmmmmmmmmmm The Jose Guervo Tequila is good stuff too, couldn't get enough of the stuff on my honeymoon in Hawaii. I also quite like absinth. Its really not that harsh at all. :thumbleft:

Get the same thing from Waxamomo too! Even a nice little maoam (however you spell it) sweet thrown in! Note at the bottom of the receipt saying thanks for the order from Chris. I spent about £110 last time and he even threw in a couple of rolls of 3m blue tape too! Awsome, and great prices too! :dance: Oh, and its their 3rd birthday this w.end so use discount code "happybirthday" and you get 10% off!

Anything ignition related. Look at the contacts on the dizzy cap first, leads, check condition of plugs as they will give you an indication of problems within the combustion chamber.

Thanks Dave, yeah I went ahead and got the MT90 not long after posting anyway! Its obviously slightly heavier so I thought more protection. Thanks again mate.

Is it not just the springy contact at the back of the plug? I had it on my golf3 as it happens! I just got a small flat head screwdriver and bent it out slightly, so there was more pressure on the base of the bulb. Worked a treat for what was an intermittent issue on mine.

This happened to me when the chimps at ProTyre fitted the flat weights onto the inside of my rim. They obviously moved them as soon as I turned up complaining, but its your only real option if they do catch short of shaving the caliper.

Although the C was never produced in massive numbers, it was still a "Mass produced car", therefore not really a bedroom poster kinda thing. Only cars there are ever sought after enough to do as a replica on "the cheap" are the real classic roadsters or supercars tbh. So as everyone else has said, no.

I'm pretty sure they do iirc. Cant do any harm in running along to have a look though!

I'm about to embark on a major service and overhaul of my 1990 16v. I very occasionally encounter difficulty engaging second gear although no crunching unless I release the clutch too early! . I've looked at the Redline MT oils, and was just wondering which would be better (MTL-75/80 GL4 Lub, or MT90 GL4). Car has done approx 160k, although gearbox was a recon item at TSR in 2008 so may well be an exchange. Thanks. :pirate: