Bs6VR6

Hey all, Just thought I'd give you an update on how I got mine resolved. Ended up replacing both the slave and master. Still the pedal had a notch in the last bit of movement that meant it wouldn't return correctly. Upon closer inspection and after a fair bit of head scratching it transpires that a previous owner had fitted a small retaining screw through the pedal and into the white clip on the end of the master cylinder. The slot it locates into must of got splayed in an earlier life I imagine. Refitted a tiny grub screw and low and behold pedal now feels superb. In fact after driving the landrover for work recently I feared it was too light but think this may just be in comparison. I used a Delphi master cylinder off eBay, cost about £50 but appeared good quality and has same pedal figment so no need to change this. Only modification needed was to rebend the high pressure outlet but this is easy enough. All appears well now. Getting it mapped this weekend then hopefully MOT next week!!

Hey, I'm after a passenger outer window scraper late style. A full bonnet cable with trumpets etc. Sunroof to headlining seal and the front headlining trim, the panel that runs along top of windscreen to hold leading edge of headlining. Monies waiting. Cheers,

Steveo, I may just give this a go for peace of mind. Is it then just a case of taking the clamp off, bolting the slave back in and job done? Do you bleed it with the pedal up or down? Sorry for all the questions just want to be clear in my own head as you hear so many differing opinions on which is the best method. VW owner, good to hear, could just of been a case of it settling, if it's remained ok till now I'd imagine everything to be ok. Cheers,

Looks the buisness mate, I'm in the same boat, as soon as the clutch is done I can get mine MOT'd, I share your frustration bud. Except your paint is far far nicer than mine lol!!!

Just wondering if either of you boys had an update on how it went? Glen, I noticed you asking for info as you reckon your clutch fork may be bent? I take it the pressure bleeding wasn't a success, hope it isn't anything too serious? Anyway, my bits should be arriving wednesday guys so I'll let you know how it goes my end then. Bizarrely, went to the garage yesterday and had had the clutch pedal down pulled it up and low and behold half a pedal again? WTF? How can a system that is so simple be so bloody difficult and confusing??? Max,

Thats a bargain mate. I feel a bit like ive been mugged off now

Yes mate, that looks the job. Fitment of those new MC looks good, I was thinking of tapping an M8 thread into it and fitting some spare head studs to secure it, but with two people M6 nuts and bolts would be fine hey?! Clutch line looks great. Be interested to know if it feels sharper or more spongy compared to oem, obviously not gunna know till its all bled in properly. Nice work though. Which slave you using? Max,

Superb, look forward to it. I'll do the same once mine arrives, hopefully be of use to others hey. Thanks mate. Max,

Sanksy:- we tried it, wouldn't allow the fluid to move with the pedal up, is this a sure sign the MC is knackered? Glen:- that's reasuring to hear��! I managed to find a company that did a Delphi MC, same layout as the one in the German ebay link but is advertised as OE quality so should be ok. Again has no bleed nipple on the MC which could be the cause of the bleeding woes and why pressure bleeding is necessary. I may still try the syringe back bleed method from the slave? Have you tried this? Pleas keep me informed as to how you got on as looks like I'll be doing the same next week. Cheers, Max,

Right, I've decided to get a braided clutch line made up from master to slave and going to order a new master cylinder from a link on German ebay. Same pedal fitment as mine so no need to change that. Only difference is the high pressure outlet comes directly out the back rather than at 45 degrees. Solve this with a 90 degree adaptor out the master that then attaches to braided. Should hopefully have it all by the end of next week. What a pain in the arse, assumed this was gunna be a 10min job, x£'s and 1 week later hopefully it'll be sorted!! They do test you don't they?! Sanky:- your probably right mate, I'm in denial! Cheers

I have rebuilt the car from the shell up mate so all 3 components have sat in a garage for a year and a half. Think that's where the nightmare began. All worked fine before it was taken off the road. Now replaced slave cylinder. Might just bite the bullet replace the master and the line and be done with it. Just so frustrating as I hadn't even budgeted for this as I assumed it would work as it did when it was removed. Bloody corrados. The best we could manage was for the pedal to firm up, would release from the floor but wouldn't return to its full upright position and just felt limp. Really appreciate the time guys, and any other ideas would be great before I she'll out but I think your probably right, master is at fault!

Yeah I did think that was right myself, as long as the pedal was down fluid would flow no issue, if you raised the pedal it would stop completely?! It was probably a bit less than 19 as I did relese a bit from the valve before hooking it up. The master cylinder is the original, so probably 20+ years old now. But the weird thing is I took the end of the line out the slave and got my mate to press the pedal and it was putting out fluid. Also when you bleed it the 2 person way it would shift fluid out the slave. So it's pushing fluid. But it won't get a firm pedal, and we got half a pedal a couple of times but then it would just go to the floor again. You reckon the master is shot then? Because I'm fresh out of ideas. Something so easy hey! Edit:- yeah seen that vid mate, but it's got new resevoir, new slave the only old parts are the master and the line itself!!!!!

Hey, Sorry tried to clarify above. Fluid did flow with eezibleed kit but only when clutch pedal was depressed. If you lifted the clutch pedal the fluid flow would stop. Checked spare tire at garage it was on 19. Fluid appeared clear with no bubbles but still no clutch. I have no bleed nipple on master as it is the original vr6 one. Cheers,

Thanks for the reply supercharged, I don't think I explained it clearly. It does flow just under the eezibleed, but only with the clutch pedal down. If you raise the pedal whilst the fluid is flowing it suddenly stops. The fluid appears to run clear but still no pedal. You can move fluid just by using the 2 person, pedal pumping method but at best we manage to get half a pedal with a bit of guts but then the next pump it will go completly. Is the flexi on the clutch line supposed to move and swell a bit then? I might check the feed to the master as I only used a spare bit of fuel line. Wondering if it's not a complete seal could it be sucking air back in through here? Seriously running out of ideas and don't want to have to replace line and master if it's not needed!! Cheers, Max,

Right, having a total mare bleeding clutch. Brakes have been done and are fine, clutch I assumed would be the easy part, I'm being proved very wrong. Initially tried using the 2 person pedal method. Couldn't get any pedal and was a struggle to get any fluid out the slave bleed nipple. Removed slave and attempted to back bleed through the slave using an improvised squirter bottle. All this did was turn the slave inside out, I essentially prolapsed my slave cylinder. Mint then. Ordered and collected new Pagid slave. Also got eezibleed kit. Attached this to new slave, opened slave bleed valve and joy of joys torrent of air then clear fluid. However still no pedal. Fluid would only travel out of slave with clutch pedal depressed, once lifted back up, fluid would stop flowing?? Attempted to try 2 person method again and managed to get half a pedal yet with the next pedal push and bleed valve open lost all pedal again?!?! This would repeat with the best result being half a pedal and yet when you attempt to clear remaining air you would suddenly loose all pedal again?! Noticed the flexi line was swelling a bit and making a funny noise, is this the cause? Is my master cylinder dead? Should I just give up and buy a Honda? Loosing the will with this now. Just need a clutch and she's ready for the MOT. Nightmare. Thanks in advance, Max, Edit:- have had all three components removed and sat on shelf for a year and half, could this have damaged the master? Slave is brand new pagid item.

Happily having got the two sections back from infinity the exhaust system now fits. Still not entirely happy as the downpipe site very close to the pas pipes but I'm sure these can be manipulated out of the way. Kev quick question, in my haste(a running theme) I overlooked the bit regarding 4motion cast manifolds and the difference to the 3.2 exhaust ports so haven't enlarged them to match. Is this likely to cause major problems? I will source an extra set and get these done so will replace them but for the purposes of getting it started am I likely to run into issues or is the possibility of a hot spot just something you wanted to avoid? Like I said will get it rectified just wanted to know if it would cause me potential issues in the short term? Cheers Max,

Just a quick update. The downpipe finally arrived, did have the lambda bosses in it but even after having trimmed the rear mount it was pulling the exhaust tight to the drivers side of the tunnel. Have had to do away with the first silencer(jetex exhaust) and get infinity to redo the first two sections. I have got the to weld in a 6 inch flexi to the section that bolts to the downpipe. Hopefully this will allow it to fit and run central through the tunnel. Not impressed though. It isn't a fit and forget part and in my case required quite a bit of extra money and bits to get it to work. Not great when it's already cost you best part of £400. Definatly would advise doing your own if you have the tools and skills.

Thanks for the response guys, even if its not exactly what I wanted to hear:( Kev remembers correctly, going standalone, using the Emerald K6 system. Bit to far along for any changes as the ecu is ordered and the wiring done accordingly. So hoping its not too much of a compromise going the way I have! Sadly, It doesn't support DBW thus the fitment of the cable throttle body. I'd read and heard from a couple of people that the Alpha throttle body fits but is actually too big, the internal size(If I remember correctly) and not ideal. But as with anything this could be incorrect. So adapter plate it is then, wonder if I just took the inlet and TB to a machine shop they'd knock something up??

Quick question guys as I haven't been able to find a concrete answer. I'm fitting a obd1 throttle body to the 3.2 24v inlet manifold and understand the bolt patterns differ so won't be a straight bolt on job. Has anyone already done this? I'm assuming an adapter plate needs to be sourced, is there an off the shelf item you can buy? Or would anyone have a diagram with the relevant dimensions I could blag to get one made up? Thanks in advance. Max,

Sound guys, Northern, if you've got one and its in good nick ill have it, pm price if you want. Failing that, fla ill give you a bell. cheers. Max,

As above really, looking for an original corrado obd1 throttle body for my 24v conversion, let me know what you've got, cash waiting. Cheers. Max,

Edit:- part number for the part listed in the pic below is 022 131 119 b. The part I am after is on this page, sorry I cant link photo direct but my computer skills are somewhat lacking. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=20610&page=96 Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. Max,

Right, must of been a long weekend, as I've gone back today with clear eyes/brain and I'm basically just a wally. I had unbolted the rear coolant outlet when painting the block. Might of been why I was struggling to find it yesterday. Now cannot for the life of me remember where I put it so will be hunting for that later. Regarding 12v or 24v coolant set-up, If I were to plumb it up as per the 24v could I retain the Samco hoses or would it require a new set? I know the aux pump is located down the front fed by the left most core plug feed. Has anyone done it this way or is it far easier to just use the 12v set-up? Don't really wanna have to fork out on a new 24v pump and hoses at this stage? Cheers,

I've got a couple of pics to show what I mean I'll post them up in a bit to show you. At the front as I have removed the heat exchanger I now have 3 spare pipes. One in the crack pipe and 2 in the block. Looking at the front of the car would I block off the left one and join the crack pipe and right one together, is this correct?

Alright mate, thanks for the reply, I think were on about different pipes mate, the one going to the top hose does go to the header tank and again to the heater matrix, it is the other(shorter)heater matrix pipe I am on about? Yeah I had an obd2 set up before I pulled it all apart so wasn't an issue then. I will be running it on a cable throttle but running emerald stand alone. Been told with good mapping the lack of idle valve can be overcome just wondering if any others had first hand experience. Cheers,