Bs6VR6

Mk3highline:- yes this is indeed true, but apparently you can use the idle valve from the vr6 and do it that way, as much as I admire all of those who have gone through the effort of doing it oem or retaining as many of the original features these things don't bother me. As long as the revs and speedo work, I can get the oil temp and the basic warnings(low/high oil pressure) I'm happy. Never looked at my mpg, never had a working outside temp, and to be honest with that engine in that car, I'm sure I'll be having to much fun driving the thing than to worry about a lack of features. I've removed Abs as well so it's gunna be a bare bones Corrado😉.

Jim, I re-trimmed my headlineing about a year ago before she went into the garage, I just popped the clear light lens out of the surround and sprayed it black, you loose the little symbols admittedly but the end result looked very tidy, sprayed visors with vinyl paint and headlineing was done with black felt like fabric from a local haberdashery, whole lot, paint, cloth, glue probably cost me £20, end result was sooo much nicer than the horrid, marked grey original, will be putting it all back in once she is complete, up to you how far you go and how nice the fabric is, but it was cheap and looked good, another option for you. Max,

Hi Sean, yes, well at least the emerald system does, you can get them preconfigured when the ecu is sent out to you, they advise a rolling road session though to optimize performance. Oh and kev, I dont plan on running it with the DBW, was going to fit an obd1 throttle body with a plate to attach to the 3.2 intake, does this further remove my need for the ,car, loom?

Kev, you sir are a gent. Right, that is now making sense, well the Audi engine loom to emerald part is. I do not have the car loom that you mention. I'm aware of the standard two that both terminate into the Audi ecu. All I have is the 'engine' loom and it is this that has been cut, but from what I now gather this is not such a massive issue as they would have to be cut anyway and terminated into the emerald ecu. I plan on running the engine without MAF, lambdas, etc, so do I even need the 'car' loom? Can I not just wire a live to the ecu? On the 'engine' loom side, Surely I could just extend each wire so that they reach back to the standard ecu location as per your very helpful pics. I'm aware I cannot join the crank wire due to signal interferance, so would it be ok to just run a complete new length and terminate it onto the correct plug and then back to the correct ecu pin out? I'm happy with that side, and confident I could do that if in possession of the relevant wiring diagrams/information. So thank you.

Kev, thanks for replying mate, I know we spoke about this last christmas, delays(time and money) have meant everything moved slower than i planned. Can I just clarify a couple of things with you? Are you saying I don't need the emerald jumper loom, That I can use just the existing Audi loom the one I have has been cut, conveniently:bonk:, where all the wires join to form the main trunk, which I assume then terminates into the original Audi ecu, correct? The actual web with all the various connectors, for coils, injectors etc is fine, just the main trunk. Are you saying trace the wires back from the various sensors, injectors etc, and then where they would then terminate into the audi ecu, instead terminate them into the relevant pins on the emerald ecu? In which case is it ok to keep all the sensors as per factory with the same factory plugs or do I also need to change these for emerald versions? Sorry if this is coming across as a tad slow, just want to make sure I've got it correct in my head. Still unsure with regards the standard Corrado looms, the three white fuse box terminated plugs, F, G1, G2, how can I keep these standard if they first travel through the factory ecu? (ok, think I may of just had a bit of a brain freeze. Do I terminate the corrado side into emerald plug then into ecu, then audi engine loom into emerald plug and then onto engine as per original loom, thus the two plugs in the emerald ecu) This wiring has been one step forward and two back, just when I think Im getting my head round it throws up something else and I realize how little I know, but I'm determined to get it sorted. Idiot, those addition photos never came through when I first replied, that clears things up a bit, my understanding of where to terminate the audi loom was pretty much there then, my other questions remain though mate, picture paints a thousand words hey. Your a gent, I really appreciate the time mate. Max

Hey guys, as some of you are aware I'm currently building my own audi engined 3.2 corrado, progress is sedate but steady but at present I'm starting to get my head around the wiring, only issue is I've made this a far more long winded process due to my initial haste. Basically due to my old shell/car being a total lemon I decided to start afresh with a new shell. This shell being an older 16v, so in my haste and ignorance I ripped ALL of the wiring out with the naive notion of just rewiring using looms from breakers, wire it back to factory, get someone to produce the fly loom for the emerald management and away you go, easy I thought..... So here are the questions, mods feel free to move if you think this is more wiring specific, but as it is directly related to a 24v build I thought this a good place to ask. 1. Does anyone have a guide or a link to somewhere that shows a complete wiring layout for the corrado. I have been following the 'central electric 2' guide whilst cross referencing with rubjonnys guide on club gti. Now I have found no issue tracing wires from the colored connectors and have managed to tag and label 70% but my lack of knowledge really come into play with the sheer amount of interconnecting wires and the vast array of single or double connectors, where can I find the info as to where these join or are terminated. I'm aware this probably sounds rather stupid to many of you, but for example the loom that runs to the electric window relay behind the rear door card, the live is ok, but there are 7 other connectors and I can't find the info that tells me where these are connected.obviously finishing with the door looms, but am I missing intermediate looms, I'm sure if I had this info I could figure it out, so please, my ears are open, enlighten me, lol! Further more, if anyone is reading this thinking, you wally that is a piece of **** I could do that in a day, please, come down I have a nice garage a brilliant kettle and financial incentives if anyone fancies a challenge;-) 2) This is the one I'm really concerned with. I am going to be running the engine(a 2007 audi TT BUB) on emerald k6 management, I have found a guy called Richard from london who is going to be producing the fly loom, but from what hes explained to me this will involve splicing the emerald fly loom into the original audi engine loom and will only run teh engine itself, all I will have to do my end is splice in an ignition live, earth and rpm tacho feed. However all the remaining engine ancillaries will run from the original fuse to engine loom. This is where I begin to crap myself a bit. I have the loom in front of me and he made it sound so easy, just remove everything that the emerald system will use and leave the rest. However from looking at it, it appears that everything from the 3 clear fuse box connectors runs to the ecu plug then back out into the large circle connector to the old vr6 engine loom. Has anyone got experience of running a 24v on standalone and if so what did they do with regard to this, any info or links would be hugely helpful. I know I'm asking a lot, and I know many of you are probably thinking I shouldn't be attempting this with such little prior knowledge, but before I started this rebuild I knew next to nothing, every step has been a learning curve and I've learned so much along the way. I've always felt I pick things up quickly, I enjoy the challenge, money is tight so cant afford to just farm everything out and if I do it myself the sense of satisfaction is huge, plus you then know your own car inside out, a very handy skill. Any help, advice or pointers would as always be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys. Hopefully, Max,

Not sure if any of the moderators from that site will see this or if anyone can help here at all but I've logged back onto Club GTi as I need to speak to a member on there but due to inactivity my account was cancelled or frozen. What the hell do I do now, Ive logged back on and it is showing im registered, all log on info worked but cant post anything or send PM's, can anyone on here help at all? Regards, Max,

Cheers swift, lost the first draft but I'll call him later. I'm going to remain positive. But if anyone has any ideas or sources please feel free to chime in😄! Max,

Cheers swift, I will do, I'm in the lucky position that one of my mates dad builds hotrods in his spare time and will be able to mill it down for me so Ill check it won't ruin the mount(can't see how) and get him to do it. I had replied to the other wiring thread but am on my phone and I lost signal and the whole bloody draft just before I sent it. But thank you for the help with that as well mate, I'll call that ebay guy later so fingers crossed.

It is indeed mate. An r32 lump, or more accurately a 3.2 Audi lump going into a corrado. It is a standard vibratech rear mount. I can only assume if the standard mount requires adjustment the vibratech one must also do. Hope that clears it up. Thanks for the reply.

Nobody?

Hey guys, so far you've not let me down in my parts requests so I'm going to try again. Have the engine to ecu loom, came with engine, looking for the fuse to engine loom( I think this is correct) the one that is usually chopped. Engine is from a 2007 Audi TT, BUB code. Anyone have one or know where I can find one I would be eternally grateful. Regards, Max,

Quick question guys, dropped the engine and gearbox back in, no issues, but seeing it sat there it does appear to be slightly crooked. Higher at the drivers side, is this what people are refering to when they say you need to trim the rear mount by 15mm. I have a vibratech rear mount, could I just mill 15mm off the main tower and then just trim the bolt to suit, would this be ok? Also dubsport apparently no longer stock their conversion manifolds all I can find are ones from United motorsport that utilises the 4motion manifolds. Does the rear mount require cutting with these like the dubsport one? Thanks in advance. Max

Ill try and get some, would make it clearer hey, lo.

Probably exactly that mate. My only concern with them is that I don't think they would cure the initial problem as they seem to weld to the outer wing, or rear quarter panel, whereas the rust I had was on a thin inner skin linking the outer panel to the rear suspension strut, it isn't structural or even visible thus my wondering whether a diy and aesthetically unappealing repair could be a viable/permanent solution, I'm not sure I'm being very clear....

That was only one quote, has to be mobile though due to it being on jacks and only half built, maybe he just didn't want to do it, thus the silly price. Thanks for the options mate, appreciated.

Sorry mate no pics, phones ****e and wont pick it up. Im sure you know the area im on about, it was pretty bad, by the time id cleaned it it was quite a large hole, probably as big as a plug. I just want to know if using the method ive described can ever last or if it will always lead to a return of the rot. Had a quote for about £300 quid to weld seemed a lot for what it was.

Hey guys. Need some advice on a slight issue I've come across. Basically rebuilding from the shell up, had everything stripped, when fuel tank was dropped I found a large section of rot where the locking mechanism for the fuel cover fixes to the inner wing. Also on the bulge that takes the two screws for the top of the filler neck. Basically, I am doing away with the standard central locking as I'm having the company who are doing the wiring, wire in solenoids to all the doors boot ect, for the fuel tank I was just gunna fit a locking cap thus negating the need for the locking mechanism. So question is this. Do I have to get this welded? Money is tight and I was hoping to sort this myself. So far I have cut out all the rot, ground back the the rest clearing away underseal until I'm back to fresh metal with various wire brushes and a drill and treated the remaining exposed surfaces with hammerite rust killer. Can I just use aluminium mesh to bridge the gap, use aluminium filler to bridge the hole, then once dry hammerite underseal/waxoyl the inner arch side and then spray underseal through the boot compartment into the wing to seal the back. The garage I'm working in is dry, would this be a permanent fix, or is it likely to keep rotting underneath, out of sight. My rudimentary knowledge of chemistry tells me if its sealed both sides, no air so no rust, or is this wrong. Advice please? Thanks in advance, Max,

I must admit I was struggling to find anything, how pricy is pricy? Its as much for the aesthetics than anything but don't want to invest in one if its a step back in terms of reliability.

Yeah just checked vag-cat, part number is 1H0609734 or possibly with a d or c at the end, have a check, but I'm sure thats the one. Cheers.

I can check on mine tomorrow as i'm over the garage. They might show it on vag-cat come to think of it. Yeah I think your right, from memory they attached just like the heatshield washers, like folded onto the cable then the whole bracket pushed up onto the studs. don't quote me on that though ;-)

Hey, if its any help to you I was pulling bits off one at the breakers on monday and noticed that along with the clips mentioned there was another bracket that clamped round the cable and clipped to the trailing arm, almost looked like a thin gauge door hinge, and could well of fitted to the stubs if the location tallies. will try and get a photo if it helps as I'm down there over the weekend. Need to get this sorted on mine as well as i've just refitted my new painted beam. Cheers, Max.

Just a quick one, what options do I have with regards upgrading my radiator, will be using spal slimline fans but was wondering what the best radiator options were.Seen quite a few on Ebay but was wondering what, if any, have you guys used in the past, any reliability issues? Any advice, opinions greatly appreciated. For info, the car will be running an Audi 3.2, mainly road use but would like to do some track days and hillclimbs as well. Regards, Max,

Thanks again for the help guys. Jamie if your hoses are this length I'll have them off you mate, send me a pm to sort out payment. Cheers, Max.

Lol, no, probably not, just seems to be constantly 2 steps forward and 1 back. I assume if I contact goodridge direct they do the front hoses seperatly as I can only seem to find the mk3 golf 6 piece set. guess its time to stop moaning and get the wallet out again! Max,