Bs6VR6

Hi all, Quick question, I've read through almost the entire dedicated thread and whilst this question was asked within, it never got answered so thought Id ask it here in the hope of getting a concrete answer. Basically already had the six hose set on the car originally, just finished the rear set up with new mk2-mk4 converters, but as I have now upgraded the fronts to 312 TT brakes I obviously need the front banjo fitment hose. Question is this, is it possible to fit a converter on the end of my existing Goodridge hose to convert it from screw in type (original) to the new banjo fitting? Save me a nice wedge and as they are only about a year old I'm a bit annoyed I now have to replace them. Thanks in advance. Max,

Thanks for the help with the other bits guys, but still desperate for the non-abs firewall bracket. Cheers, Max,

Thanks for all the advice guys, had a good look now and there seems to be lots of good options, think I'm gunna go for two of the aps ones mounted side by side in the bay in place of the original abs pump, quite happy with that solution. Thanks again. Max,

Sounds exactly the same as mine just before the slave cylinder let go, no pedal and no changing gear, good news is it is an easy fix, literally two bolts holding it in, its bolted as said to the top of the gearbox, can get a photo later if it helps as my box is out of the car so easy to see the part your after. Check for fluid on top or down the sides of the box, mine was only subtle but still visible. Cheers.

Hey, thanks for the replies guys, a manual bias valve was the option I was going to go for, think my terminology may of been a tad lax. I did clarify in my wanted thread but although it will be used for track days and hill climbs it will predominantly be a road car, or will at least share duties. my idea would be to dial in a standard 'road' set up using the roller in my mates garage, that they test handbrake efficiency on, mark this on the valve and use this on the road. when I take it to tracks etc you can wind it on slightly, or experiment with bias but have that base setup to revert back to, does this seem feasible. Was going to fit it on the firewall in position of the original abs pump. I have already fitted the two separate lines so will be using them both as a safety net of the duel lines. Ebay have a huge number of these, best place do you reckon? Thanks for all the info guys. Max, Shean, yeah did consider the Teves 20 system, but for a number of reasons discarded the idea, be interesting to see how that system felt in comparison to the original though.

Vag-Hag :- Hi mate, yeah Ill have it, working up in hereford mon-fri at the moment so can swing past on my way home one night next week. Which days best for you and how much do you want for it. Cheers, max. Lilfuzzer, think I will have the bumper iron off vag-hag just due to location, how much to post the regulator down to me mate, I'm in Portishead near bristol. Cheers guys. Anyone help on the firewall bracket??Or advice on an alternative???

haha, mounts were there. My old one was utter shagged, just a blob of corroded metal, so it may of already been removed entirely, also simplified the new brake lines massively, I shall have to do some more research then, just hoping one of you brainy bunch may of already done it;-)Mainly concerned with whether I definitely require one with the two separate rear lines, finding the compensator shouldn't be a problem. Thanks for the input.

Sorry, probably over sold that aspect, I will be doing some, but it will be predominantly a road car, The new interior and complete sound deadening put rest to any 'stripped' Motorsport credentials, its just my abs never worked anyway, in fact I've never had a car with it, plus its a old and fairly basic system anyway. Toyed with the idea of the mk3 golf system but For ease, financial restraints and the above reasons I've decided to do away with it.

Oh Ok, on the 'Oichans' non abs guide he appears to fit an inline one, in the engine bay itself, it is a small bullet shaped thing, I was hoping there would be something similar, but able to take the two lines?

Hi guys, Rebuild is continuing and due to a number of reasons, mainly the planned track days and hill climbs I am retro fitting a non abs setup to the Rado, have everything now bar the blasted firewall bracket, but have a few questions fro any brake experts put there. Have already run the two separate lines to the back, my question is this, do I still have to run a rear brake compensator when two lines are used(from my research I would say it does) and in which case, which one do you recommend? Any advice would be appreciated. If useful I have a 312 front brake set up and the upgraded mk4 rear callipers on the rear, master cylinder is mk2 golf 22m with appropriate servo. Cheers, Max.

Hey, Thanks everyone who helped out with my last list, greatly appreciated. Anyway, few more items needed to push on and one of which is proving a total mare. NON-abs firewall servo bracket( I know there is an option of combining two other brackets but the intended part would be ideal) Front bumper metal support bracket, have a bumper skin, just need the crossmember it attaches too. passenger door window motor. That is all, for now, any help would be much appreciated. Cheers, Max,

Hi fla, I will definitely take the ignition looms and doors looms, and if it is only teh aux pump connector missing then I shall have the engine loom as well, pm me a price mate all posted to portishead and I'll get back to you thanks. Purple tom, ill take whichever of teh doors is in better nic, colour is not important as there all getting painted. also definatly have the rear brakes off you, pm me a price, postage may be a pain, but if you could get a price Ill go from there. Lil fuzzer, running standard corrado VR6 box, the only original part from the car apart from the tailgate, lol. Cheers guys.

Right, although slower than anticipated, the project is still rolling on and now need a few more items to get to the next stage, any help would be greatly appreciated. Wiring looms (VR6):- Fusebox to engine loom. Ignition to fuse box. gearbox to dials,(speedo, revs etc) Both door looms. Bodywork/Chassis:- Front cross member(radiator support, NOT the one with the front engine mount on. Drivers door(complete if possible, really looking for one in good condition, rubbers etc) Drivers wing. Engine:- 24v 2.8 alternator, power steering pump bracket( doing an R32 conversion, and need the bracket that mounts to block to hold ancillaries) Belt tensioner, same as above( if I've read correctly these are the two items I need) R32 crack pipe,( have VR6 samco hose set so will apart from this be running original cooling system). Starter Motor(optimistic I know but if anyone has a new one lying about spare I'm your man, loath to buy one from VW as there prices are somewhat eyewatering. Clutch, looking to replace mine before the engine goes back in, looking for a slightly uprated one, if anyone has a set now surplus to requirements,Ill snap it up, preferably with bearing and arm as well.....if you dont ask..... Brakes:- Want to run the MK4 rear brakes as have refurbished the rear beam ready to be reinstalled, does anyone have a set they planned on fitting and never got round to? I'm after everything, or as much as you have. That's it for now, lots more to request when the time arrives, just need to to be a rolling chassis with the engine and box back in for the bloke to complete the wiring, thanks in advance. Max,

Ill take them sunday mate if there still available, saves me doing them to mine. Max,

Hey Guys, have a few questions hoping some wiring guru may be able to help with. Currently deep into a rebuild with the rado, just purchased a Audi 3.2 lump and have some questions regarding wiring. I am being helped by one of my dads friends who owns a tuning garage, so the car will b e running on an Emerald K6 standalone system, I will also be getting them to provide a custom loom to make installation easier. question is this; What standard wiring do I have to leave intact in the engine bay, I don't want to bog this guy down with too many questions as I want to learn it myself and im finding it quite a steep learning curve. I know it would negate the small engine loom, as in injector harness, cooling fans, fuel pump etc,. but could someone who has done this before please give me a break down on the different looms entering engine bay and which ones will need to remain? oh also, are all late model corrado looms the same or are there differences between 16v vr6 etc. I know engine ones will differ but I also have to replace interior looms, rear spoiler looms well basically everything, so when sourcing new looms want to be sure they are all interchangeable? I'm guessing all lighting looms will need to remain, plus any feed to the instrument gauge, ie, rev counter, speedo etc,as i want teh basic info to still work on standard cluster, stuff like oil temp, oil pressure etc can be displayed using a plug and play display on teh emerald system. My understanding is that the standard ecu is removed and replaced by the emerald system, so any system running off that is replaced, but a beginner guide to what looms should remain and what need removing would be great. I can get an auto electrician in, but would like to do as much myself, I'm no idiot just this is way more than ive done before so any advice would be greatly appreciated. i am currently on page 59 of teh definative 24v guide, so am helping myself as much as I can, lol. Thanks in advance. Max,

Hi all, Apologies to rob for not being able to do anything with the car, but as the guy above has said, maybe to nice to break, so hopefully someone will turn her round and bring her back. Anyway, have sent pm's to all those who offered parts so hopefully that all works out. Just a few more items im after, so hopefully you guys can help. looking for a complete VR6 rear beam, my old one, I discovered was slightly bent due to a rear end accident, realised when I tried to offer it up to the new shell and the holes were about 8mm off, nightmare. Exhaust tunnel heat shield, got a bit excited removing the existing one and this coupled with rusted fixings means I need to replace, the final piece was salvageable but need the pieces forward of that, or if not available some advice on alternatives. Thanks again in advance. Regards, mAX,

Hey guys, thanks everyone for the responses, never fails to amaze me how helpful this forum is. I think though my best option will be the last, to be able to pillage a complete car for parts, especially one in Bristol is the ideal solution. Apologies to all those who offered, not meaning to mess anyone about. Rob, if the offer stands that seems to be the best option, rest assured the parts will be going to a good home mate. Please pictures would be great. I'm free either Saturday or Sunday to pop over mate if that works for you? Thanks again everyone. Regards, Max,

The only other consideration is condition, literally threw any part that was at all damaged or broken so only really looking for parts in A1 condition, paint work not important as will be painting but no rust or dents if possible, sorry to be fussy. Regards, Max

Wow, thanks all for the speedy replies. I'm in Bristol so am more than happy to collect if not a million miles away. Awkward position now as I'm not sure who to take up. Regarding doors, really want them as complete as possible with all rubbers, window mech and glass if possible, are any of the above in that condition? Also wings, am I right in thinking that the vr6 has slightly wider wings than early models? I suppose it boils down to whoever is closer really so I can collect. What sort of prices are you guys after as well?

Hi, loads of bits needed, so I'm just going to list them below. When I stripped the car down I junked anything that was damaged or broken, which soon turned out to be about half of the car, so now looking to replace that long list. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Wings, both needed, colour not important. Both Doors needed, preferably complete, or with as much as possible (my previous ones were rusted to hell and had been broken into so top frame and rubbers were split, rusted etc) Front bumper, and all front end, the beam the front mount attaches to, slam panel etc. Mk3 abs system, teves20 I think its called, as complete a system as possible, or advice on where I could look even. That'll do for now, thanks in advance. Max,

Sorry for taking so long to update, as promised pictures of the work done to clean up the engine bay and collection of the new engine. Just cleaned all brackets and bolts,cleaned lots of seem sealer, smoothed over rough sections, rivet marks, indents etc on the turret and inside of the wing. Its nothing crazy, just tidied up a bit. And the engine, really happy with the condition, obviously no way of checking inside, but appears in great condition, came with all auxiliaries, only 50k. Quick question, after reading as much as I can on the swap it self am I correct in thinking if I fit an after market Mocal oil cooler, this negates the front mount clearance issue, only I have vibratech mounts and would love to be able to keep the front one. Thanks in advance. Max,

Right then, Been a bit quite, but been plenty of activity going on with the car. Basically, shell is now ready to paint, going to be matte black for a number of reasons, primarily cost, simply have a limited budget so have had to really think about where to spend the money and have basically decided to spend it on the engine, and running gear. I felt that it would be better to invest in the mechanicals and save up for a professional paint job in a year or so. So with that in mind, I am sending all my front assembly, hubs, drive shafts, sub-frame etc off to be shot-blasted and painted in a couple of weeks, as said the shell has been keyed, and is ready to paint. I've cleaned the engine bay a little, removed a few bolts, clips and all of the seam sealant from turrets and inner wings, I left all of it on the firewall to engine joins, as these looked like water traps so thought it best to leave it in place. Its looking really clean, only been primed as yet. Have purchased a set of 312 front brakes off a forum member, complete with callipers etc, look so much better than standard items, so they will be cleaned prior to fitment. However the main development has been to do with the engine. I'm luck that one of my dads best friends is a bit of an engine wizard and owns a tuning garage in Yate (JPR Power) so the original plan was to get him to build up the current 2.8 vr6, we were going to bore it out to the original corrado 2.9 due to the cyclinder damage 5. it was to be a complete rebuild, everything lightened and balanced, gas flowe head the whole lot, however, a couple of things stopped this. Primarily Johns advice, after stripping the engine he believed that there was a inherent problem with the design of the VR6,(I will now try to relay his advice, or at least my understanding of it.) Essentially an exhaust port ran to close to one of the inlet ports which he said would create a sort of decreasing circle regarding power from the engine, namely, the more power you try to extract the hotter the head will get, increasing the likelihood of pinking thus forcing him to begin retarding the timing thus creating the circle, hope that made sense. He reckons running on Emerald KD6 the maximum he'd want to comfortably extract would be 220-230 before he hit a kinda wall. That said he is a bit of a perfectionist so he may just be worrying unnecessarily. But the end result of a long discussion was that for the money I'm far better off sourcing the newer 24v VR6 as he believes the newly designed head, has twin porting or something which he reckons has been done to cure the previous issues, among other things and thus allow far greater power. Sooooooo, im heading up to north in about an hour for a joyous two and a half hour drive to collect my new lump. An Audi 3.2 24v, with 50k on it. Comes with all auxiliaries, so the plan is to fit this, running with the Emerald standalone, on the standard box. Currently on page 57 of the 'definitive 24v thread' reading up on any potential pitfalls, but from what I've read my main issues will be with fitment, as running the standalone system with its custom loom greatly increases the ease in getting the motor running....hopefully... wish me luck. Will be uploading loads of photos later this evening, thanks for looking. Any advice is welcome. Regards, Max,

Right, after much arsing about i have finally managed to get the photos to load, apologies for the quality there all taken on my iphone. I have to pop out now but will ammend thread with txt for each, just havent got time right now. Were getting there though. So far the pictures you see are all within a three week period, the actual strip down of my original black one, and then swapping the two shells was all done in a week holiday I took from work. I had a bit of help in the evenings but work was largely done by myself, thus the use of two jacks to drop front subframe and rear beam. Very happy with progress so far. The new shell is in fantastic condition, a perfect base for the re-build. Currently using my new toys to clean and tidy the bay, which is proving to be a far bigger job than i had planned on. Anyway, updates later, all for now.

Right, I am currently in the process of uploading all 400 photos as we speak. Fear not, the vast majority are very tedious, and only done for my reference during the re-build. Ill give you guys the edited highlights ;-). Updates later! Cheers,