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Where would people recomend to get stuff balanced? I am in ireland, but would not mind getting a crank and flywheel sent over to be done. Thanks Nice setup there on Ebay!

Interesting Reading there Chrismc What your saying seems to make sense to me. Electronic injection, like your t bodies, will leave more scope for more power but the cost of doing so means that some internal work may be needed on the bottom end. 200bhp seems to be the limit of the k jet and as a result when things are running at their upper limit they need constant tweeking to maintain a good result. With Efi it is not as difficult to maintain a high bhp as there are various sensors that will adjust the variables to maintain the power. So for me, or someone else to get a reliable 170-180 bhp, then k jet should be ok, but for more its time to get into the efi areas. Anyone agree?

@Alex, we always learn too late :lol: What i have seen is that the there is a massive difference of opinions. I rekon that k jet is limited and will need to be modded for the moment, then i will fire in the digi pants maybe and give a definitive answer. From My reading of specs and the like, the use of digipants and a different set of injectors with a chip and fpr will make more bhp with a nicely modded engine

Here is a little info from a mk3 Rally car that was for sale a few months back. This is a vw motorsport engie, it gives an idea, i know the power was higher in some of these Manufacturer: Volkswagen Type: ABF Displacement: 2.0-16V Horsepower: 235 Torque: 240 Induction: Verparts Roll throttle system Heads: stock, adapted Block: stock, adapted Main Caps: motorsport grade Crankshaft: stock,polished, balanced Connecting Rods: stock, weighed, balanced Pistons: JS race pistons Camshaft: Schrick Valves: size upgraded Valve Train: adjustble sprockets intake & exhaust Clutch: hardest organic LUK Pressure Plate: spring rate motorsport type, balanced Flywheel: reduced mass, balanced Exhaust: Supersprint 4-2-1 63 mm Total Time: 10 000 Races: none, only tests And here is a pic of the engine

is it just the part that clips on the fuel rail? and has the plug running back to the ecu from it?

So from readin this, a ported head, inlet manifold and exhaust coupled witgh a modded warm up reg and a rolling road session should make a 9a good for the bones of 200bhp with some cams?

Interesting, so what bottom end did you use Olly?

Wow, the thread has grown, thanks lad's As Alex said, the car is not slow by any stretch of the imagination, but it is limited by the fuel injection, a set of cams and a remapped/chipped(custom code are supposede to be good with abf, and ex AMD Geoff who is ocassionally at stealth) setup should give a nice power increase from the 150 standard. As for over 200 bhp from k jet, i am sure it can be done, but the costs of getting 200 bhp out of mechanical injection must be very high, with electronic it is a lot simpler, you can chip, it change injectors, change fpr and various other small things to increase the bhp. But this is just an info thread i am looking at, i got the abf engine for a very good price and it has almost everything there, so it would be reasonably easy to do. Keep the info coming. With high power k/ke jet what sort of specs are they running? I know the abf was used in the mk3 golf rally cars and they were good for 250+bhp Thanks

I am considering this conversion but i am just wondering has anyone done it? I am nearly certain its a plug and play conversion

I run Yokohama Advan Slicks on track, well i did till i killed one of them. Only run slicks on the front too the put a huge load on cv's, gearbox and bushes, but i think they are worth it as a set of slicks will do ususally a season of track days where as road tyres get killed quite easily. As Dinkus says they can cause oil surge which is not good for your bottom end barings or any of the engine. I have done a fair few track days in different cars and feel that a porperly setup car, not properly set up for road, will be quick, slicks will make the braking, accelerating and cornering. A shrick baffled sump is a good investment and a mk2 diesel windage tray too.

corrado starter motors are all the same, but not the same as a mk2 golf with a rod change box

whats the standard weight?

I like what your doing here! The LM's really suit the corrado. what cage are you getting?

I know alex's car, it was a beast I have his mates old 16v and i need to do an engine rebuild as the crank pulley slipped on me and did some damage to the engine. I want to get as close to 200 N/A as i can

Well in Ireland they are lots more expencive but apparently the rules about overtaking seem to be very strict in the uk i would be up for a uk track day, once i get my car back together anything up to about £150 would be acceptable and wheather it was just corrado's or not would not be an issue to me. North of england is good for me too as its not too far from holy head :lol:

As the question says, is anyone running a decent power n/a 16v engine my crank pulley has sheaed and its time for an engine rebuild i am just wondering if anyone has done a big power 16v, i am talking high compression and prob 2L the mk3 16v rally cars ran up to 14:1 so any corrado's running big power?

Gearoid, that the best place to have the car! VR6's car looks sweet alright

Gearoid, i would nearly leave it aqua and make it go faster! you will end up with 2 cars polished to perfection that you wont drive :lol:

Well i was out on track on sat, had a great day, had to mind my brakes didnt melt, so i will neeed to upgrade them soon. but anyway, i noticed the timing had gone off a little, but thought it may have just been out a tooth as when i inspected it nothing appeared to be wrong. then i pulled into the pits and noticed a noise from the pulleys, i looked and it was as if the power steering bracket had come loose, i firstly checked the 4 alan bolts in the crank to make sure it was not loose there, but they were fine and then checked the pump bracket and it did seem a little loose, but nothing too bad, so i left it went on fir the rest of the day and had a blast, thenm drove 35 of the 40 miles home for the car to die on me stopped on the side fo the road with it not wanting to start, now i kinda suspected the bottom pulley, but was a little annoyed to find i was right. i stripped it today and it has no key left on it and the loosesness was due to the bolt workjing its way loose, only a turn mind you, but enough. has anyone ever doweled the crank to overcome a torn keyway? its either that or get a new crank, its an abf bottom end. Anyone got one?

I have a wiechers bolt in one

Thanks Lad, i think its the fan switch, there is no run on switch on my engine, but when i went down at lunch to have a look at it, i tried it and the fan didnt come on, it seems to have fixed itself, i think that means it time for a new thermo switch. Wierd prob Thanks Again

Thanks, i will go down to the car park and check in a little while

Right, my fan on my 2L 16v keeps running, it drained the batt on me the night before last and now i have to unplug it to switch it off. Now i have not checked relay's etc because its dark, but is there a control unit for these on a 16v i know there is one on a VR, but not sure wheather its the thermostat or a control box that does the switching. Thanks

Alex, a front mount intercooler changes a g60 so much, it gets more constant boost @Tristan, that looks like it could work quite nicely

Cool looking! i like it