rmn

Eurospec head info http://www.eurospecsport.com/euro8vhead.htm

Well the eurospec ones are $3000 ish if i remember correctly One of my friends is building a eurospec G60 at the moment, should be on the road next week

mike make sure you give it a good clean under the car get any possable corrosive material off the bottom of the car too

yeah Gearoid get some of your cleaned bits pics up

thast should do it alright :lol:

are they connected int he right order? blue and black not reversed?

email, je pistons and ross pistons, google them and you will get web sites they are both well known pistons and it would be a good deal. you will need more than pistons for 300bhp from an 8v G60 :lol:

standard body modded engine/chassis all the way, same on all cars in my opinion not just vw's

thats very sweet!

How much have we spent...........10k and still counting, car needs paint, mapping, diff this gets depressing on the flip side, my blue corrado has only cost me front brakes and registration

There has been a forge one for years, a lad i know designed it and its running in a few cars at this stage

will post up that pic for you shortly

its a really tough call to have to make

Very tough call! you have the mk2 as a future play thing, so the mk4 could do for the time being. The thing is you have a mk4 v6 4 motion, its now a stealth r32. its got modern suspension, modern engine, modern brakes, modern driver aids and a haldex diff. then you have the Corrado, its a 10 year old shell, its got an R32 motor, its got modern enough suspension(through upgrade), modern brakes(again through upgrade), no driver aids, syncro diff(which i think is Sh1t). We will ignore the interiors, presumable both have nice seats. You, like me, are more into a go car than a show car. The mk4 is a heavey beast in any form and may be powerful but is not balistic quick. the corrado is not feather weight either, but its way more aerodynamic! With the R32 motor i would say it moves quite well! the problem with getting drag times with the corrado will always be the diff, so with a haldex diff and a nice controller unit it would be sweet on the strip. If you go for parts cost, the engine will be the same for both, the corrado is an unholy rip off from the dealer, they must supply vaseline at the parts counter :lol: . the mk4 is cheap and parts are plentyful. On paper the mk4 is the car to keep, but we are not all econimists, are we? I would love to have a corrado like your one, instead i am buiold ing a 16vg60 and i know how much that costs so i shudder to think how much cash is tied up in your car. I feel that if you want to make money, sell the mk4, its the more usable car but is also a lot more salable. If you keep the corrado you will have lots of fun in it andonce youjr bugs are ironed out it will be again one of the most unique corrado's ever! Selling the corrado will be very very difficult, you WILL get what you want for it, but it will take time. We all know lots of people are scare off by propperly modded cars and will only buy standard. I would be saying to build up the corrado, drivwe it for a month or so and have it for sale, see if you get any takers adn if you do let it off with the new happy owner. You know that if you need to you can always sell the mk4! On paper the mk4 is the one to keep, but i dont like them, i think they feel very uninvolving to drive! Just my 2 cents PS welcome back!:lol:

you can get a non shine finish like suade that is the rallye car finish, i think its flock on the dash, i do like the leather but it will crack if its not perfectly maintained

Right i am doing some wiring at the moment does anybody ahve a code for the wires that run from the engine bay to the fuse box, i know the blocks do certain things, but i am talking colors, its a1992 G60 engine loom i am looking for. Would bentley have this? Thanks in advance

thats the one Jay, i couldnt find a pic of it

happened to me, gently lift the bottom of the grille on each of the 3 prongs till they pop out and then you can move the grille forward through a few degrees and get your hand up and then pull the c able between the 2 release pins then get back to the fuse box end to fix the cable. It is usually a crap design piece of metal clip that breaks causing this, i took off the bonet release lever and drilled a small hole in it, put a self tapper screw through a piece of metal bent through 90 degrees with a slotted hole. this now holds the cable and the handle pulls against it! It is good and strong and wont break, plus if you paint it black you wont even see it :lol:

on koni coilovers you can adjust the stiffness by winding th nob supplied on the top of the shocks by default they are on the doftest setting

there is one listed in etka for a mk3 not sure if it will fit a vr though

@24V Renshaw, for Anglesey, think of Chester and then think 80 miles west of it!

Mark get a bead rolled onto the end of the pipe, it gives it something for the clip to pull against. the samco link pieces(metal links for the silicone boost hoses) have a rolled edge to help prevent this blow off happening, otherwise get a newpiece made up just slightly longer, or better angled

Baz, your car has not been used in a while. That is most probably the problem, it seems it is only working on the slow speed but if it gets used a bit it will normally recover, my car was like that i had one speed wipers(damn slow) and now its fine after some use

:lol: this is a good laugh I have a Black G60 with a black interior, i canged the grey one out because its not the best looking. Also have an Aqua Blue 16v with a black interior.

big boys toys, lots of those sort of places, they can be not too good a fit too