bmwcompact

Just read the whole thread. Looks a good example and a great colour. Looks even better with the work you've done. Dont mind the wheels-look kind of chunky and go with the corrados styling. Roof lining/sunroof work looks like it was worth the effort. Engine bay looks tidy. Have you got VR6 top mounts-they dont look like mine? What brand is the exhaust system-what did you pay and what do you think of its quality/sound-I have an original new 'suitcase ' box and at some point will fit this and need a rear silencer to go with it.

Totally lost for words!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

On my car rear arm obvious, blade 45 cm Front passenger arm is 6 cm longer than drivers, both blades are 50 cm. There's no guarantee what I have is correct-I've never thought to check. Hope that helps.

Assuming you have hooks (1990), I think you have VW 535 253 409A obsolete: Bosal 233-593 obsolete, Imasaf 72.54.06. Imasaf is available from Germany but with carriage 150 euros so more expensive. Non of the vw suppliers have anything, just the few suppliers on Ebay all around £100, no idea what brand/quality on offer. Other options are used mild steel/stainless steel or new stainless. In your shoes I'd look for someone breaking and buy a used system but maybe you want it done asap? http://www.auspuff-sets.de/as-shop/index.php?pc=1LXc09LP2t3ozcc%3D&as=1LWkmJijnezY&va=1LWZkt3P&ac=1LWelZOf39Y%3D

Have you tried VW Heritage? They had a non original crankshaft toothed pulley (027 105 263B) listed and in stock last time I looked (£7.70) but not the bolt ( N 903 670 01)-that doesnt mean they haven't got it. May be worth calling them? Ive checked VW Classic parts, Germany and neither part is listed.

Offficially its a compensating arm 191 711 399.

Do you mean one of these? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-CORRADO-GOLF-II-1-8-86-95-Exhaust-Central-Silencer-/160486482971?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3ACorrado&hash=item255dbd641b

David (davidwort) did you determine whether the 8v top hose is likely to fit the 16v with/without some trimming?

Coming along great James. When are you hoping to have it back on the road and ready for viewing? Mine went back on the road this morning (April 1st) complete with new Lemforder top mounts/improved front bumper/recon distributor etc. A 30 mile trip to Coniston confirmed the effort had been worthwhile. When it comes to rubber suspension bits, VW/Lemforder makes a lot of difference. All we need now is some rain to wash away the salt and some sunshine to enhance our driving pleasure. Hope Oscar enjoyed his Easter treats (chocolate I presume?)

Dont know why 1.8 owners haven't answered. On my 2l 16v top of dipstick is level with the underside of the radiator guard. When I fitted my guide I thought it was seated when in fact in needed to be pushed down hard to properly locate. I wouldn't want you to break yours forcing it if its already correctly located, but if it is too high that could be the reason??????

As above part nos: Reinforcement bar: 535 807 181 plus 5 shouldered bolts: N 904 338 01 N 010 473 01 speed nut and N 015 946 1 panel screw. Splitter has holes for 3 each side, mine only had 2 each side fitted: Its your choice! (Info for those reading this post who want part nos)

Did you find a new hose that fitted or end up with a used one? Feedback will help others on the search in the future.

If you have any doubts about a possible leak in the oil cooler, you ought to check it out/replace it immediately. Mine failed big time on my Mk 2 scirocco without warning- cooling system full of oil and engine bay covered in oil/water.

There isn't an idle screw on the 9a even though theres one on the KR. If you have put your belt on correctly (valve timing) and you've set your ignition timing correctly, it ought to be idling correctly. Assuming it was idling OK before you worked on the head why should it not do so now??? There is a mixture screw on the metering head, set at the factory and you should not adjust this. Owners play with this to try to sort out problems when its nothing to do with the mixture. Leave it alone as this wont be your problem!!! The first thing to check is that everything is back together correctly. Are all the hoses reconnected, including all those small vac hoses around the airbox and to the throttle body? Is the air filter fitted correctly/airbox lid fastened/all electrical connections in place? If there any air leaks on the inlet tract between meter head and manifold it screws up the system. Ordinarily idling problems are often caused by problems with the ISV (idle stabilisation valve). Its possible it could be sticking. Sometimes it can be successfully cleaned with brake cleaner. Its a bit of a coincidence if this is starting to play up now.

Sound like the ISV (idle stabilization valve). You can try cleaning it with brake cleaner. That may fix it or even make it worse but should indicate if thats you problem. Mine got cleaned a couple of times and then was replaced with a used one. Sometimes however its the potentiometer on the throttle body thats the problem. It tells the ECU when the throttle is closed (ie that the engine is idling) and the ECU then controls the ISV. Again it may have to be replaced with a used one. (new ones cost silly money)

No joke! The lambda sensor is fitted to the cat and tells the ecu whether the mixture is correct. This then controls the fuel input via the meter head. If its defective or a cheap universal has been fitted it can lead to issues: as I said my car improved greatly when I fitted a new Bosch lambda sensor.

I have no experience of the VR6 engine but have had the heads off VW Derby/Polo/Golf 2/Scirocco all at 100-130K as well as other Marque engines. In the case of the Golf (100K) there was head erosion/corrosion and chemical metal was needed. Its often said that a head gasket failure/overheated can lead to head distortion and hence the need for head skimming. I am sure the head can be checked to see if this is required. I have always bought a full head gasket set (Reinz) as someone else has suggested and of course head bolts. Often its difficult to remove an exhaust manifold with the possibility of shearing a stud. Depending on their condition it may be necessary/advisable to replace one or more studs. The same goes for the manifold/downpipe studs (I've replaced some on my 16v when I fitted a used exhaust manifold). I always use new copperised exhaust manifold nuts as a matter of course. I have always removed valves/cleaned off the deposits and where necessary replaced springs/hydraulic tappets. I have always reground the valves. I dont know whether at 200K anyone would consider valve replacement/guide replacement is needed (there'll be a spec for wear). Obviously the gasket kit will contain valve stem seals. As others have suggested getting a recon head may be the best way forward then its all taken care of.

That hyperlink was too clever for me I dont think I can help. A quick search tells me early KR/9A had a 65 amp alternator and later 90 amp: both were Bosch. My own car has a recon Lucas. The one you show is 70 amp. Someone else may know about the pulley issue (for all I know it may be that cars with AC have this pulley/belt arrangement). I am suspicious when its listed for corrado but has the wrong pulley-I've never bought an alternator and had to change the pulley. It may not fit the corrado bracket? I think it may be for the 8v 2l corrado. I can see why it interests you-it seems cheap compared with others. I found some that look correct for £140/160. Someone must have done a replacement recently and can offer an opinion. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-1-8-2-0-88-95-ALTERNATOR-CORRADO-GOLF-JETTA-PASSAT-A561F-/310549344847?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item484e2ef24f looks correct http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ALTERNATOR-VW-CORRADO-1987-1995-LRA00563-/190695683348?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3AVW%7CModel%3ACorrado&hash=item2c66593514 This is the correct part no of the Lucas unit fitted to my car and is 65 amp LRA 563 (note the advert says its new but doesnt say it is Lucas)

Ah! I dont know about that mark (as they say a picture says a thousand words). I have only ever used the mark on the back of the cam pulley/top of the cylinder head-that works for every VW watercooled engine Ive ever worked on. In theory the mark you show should be right otherwise VW wouldnt have put them there. I don't even know if my 9A cam pulley had a mark on its front face.

''The breakthrough appeared to be that the marking on the rocker cover wasn't true to the marks on the cams. I had lined up the cams, them placed the rocker cover on, then done the timing to the mark on the rocker cover.'' The valve timing/cambelt fitting is done before you fit the rocker cover. The timing mark on the rear side of the cam pulley is supposed to align with the top of the cylinder head without the cam cover fitted. What do you mean by 'marks on rocker cover'? If you have fitted the belt aligning to some mark on the rocker cover you've put it on wrong and are probably at least a tooth out.

Firstly, I am pleased to hear that the car is now running. I am not however clear what caused the breakthrough: at the end of the day was it a case of setting the valvetiming/cam belt fitting correctly? As for your present running problem, I offer the following: Cars that don't run well unless the tank is full usually have a failed lift pump in the tank. I've read lots of posts about this here and on other forums but have no personal experience of this. However I have removed the liftpump on my 9A to check its operation (my intank pump filter was clean). Its not difficult: 3 screws to remove the black plate in the boot, remove the electrical connection/remove 2 fuel pipe clips and pull off hoses, suitable drift and hammer to unscrew the large plastic cap from the tank and then remove the pump/fuel gauge sender unit. Its then easy to establish whether the pump is working. On refitting you will need 2 new hose clips. Assuming you have got your timing right now, all 3 possibilities for the poor idling have already been given. Lets assume the fuel distribution meter hasn't been messed with and is OK since you say your car did run well for 5 months. The ISV may be responsible for the idling problems. It can be cleaned with something like brake cleaner. Some have permanent success here, others temporary success. I have recently fitted a used one to my 9A (137K) after 2 attempts at cleaning which still left a somewhat temperamental ISV. Currently my idling is perfect. (The 9A has the same ISV as a VR6 either Bosch or VDO) The throttle potentiometer causes lots of problems with the 9A. I personally replaced mine with a used one after intermittent problems early in my ownership. The potentiometer is not a true throttle position sensor. It is merely 2 switches in one. It tells the ecu when the throttle is closed and when wide open. If the ecu does not know the throttle is closed it will not signal the ISV to operate. Hence your ISV may be fine and its the potentiometer thats giving you the idling problem. There are posts on this forum (including several of mine) showing how to test the potentiometer but if its an intermittent problem it may test OK but still cause problems. It costs silly money new (£120??) so usually you have to buy a used throttle complete with used potentiometer. As I said in an earlier post, it is easy to replace everything in sight to try to solve a problem. I would therfore advise you to spend a few hours reading around the above issues. I find the forum search function does not work well for me and usually use Google which brings me back to the best posts on this forum. I have also done other things with my 9A and found the biggest overall improvement to performance/mpg was gained by fitting a new Bosch Lambda sensor. I am not suggesting this is part of your current problem, only that its important for the overall wellbeing of this engine. Edit: Having reread your most recent posts, ie the rich smell which you have always had, maybe your mixture has been altered before you got the car and needs sorting!

I too have 2l 16v 9A. My car alternator has a V belt as opposed to a flat belt. Yes it appears to have teeth but it is not a toothed belt! A toothed belt works like a chain, with each link/tooth being positively located on the driver and driven wheels and responsible for the drive. The flat belt/our v belt relies on friction to transmit the drive between the 2 pulley wheels. A ribbed belt is a type of flat belt that has several ribs along its length: thats not what is fitted to my 9A. As for your alternator, you seem to have forgotten the attachment or link?????????

My only interest in posting answers to questions is to help and encourage those who wish to learn/do their own maintenance. However I also consider it essential that information presented here is correct: these posts will be used by others in the months/years to come. Unfortunately the variations between the different models: Golf 2 in all its variants, Corrado 1.8/2 16v and VR6 often results in incorrect info being offered in good faith, either here or elsewhere. Personally I have adopted the habit of saying 'I think', 'I believe' or 'from memory' if I am not 100% sure of my information. I assume the car is now sorted. Lets hope we get some good weather so we can enjoy driving them: mine goes back on the road next Monday!

Hi, if you have a passenger side (UK rhd) late headlight glass and/or black plastic surround I would like them, and Ill pay postage obviously. Sorry I missed the 'driving past' bit in my eagerness: that probably means you dont want the hassle of posting?

Number 8 gasket: 021 115 446A Bolt M8 x 42, 1 off: N 010 353 3 Bolt M8 x 105, 2 off: N 100 362 03 Sealing plug with sealing ring: 021 115 434 Plug only: N 016 025 2 No personal knowledge, just looked them up Edit: 0.25 bar blue 028 919 081H 1.4 bar black 068 919 081D either 1HO 919 563 if its a temp sender or 535 919 561B if its 0-10 bar pressure sensor????? Like I said no personal knowledge its what Ive found!