bmwcompact
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Everything posted by bmwcompact
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Was this a real or an imaginary problem?
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Firstly I am glad that your compression is OK so your valves must be undamaged. Whilst Wullies analysis is spot on, I have alternate advise. Try to find a forum member or someone familiar with the engine to look at it with you. You've been struggling for a while and just want it sorted. It may be that you are doing something in error that you are unable to see. Lots of us have been there-it happens. I have read on this forum of crankshaft pulleys coming loose and causing a problem. Trying to remove/replace the crank pulley raises more issues for you: how to lock the crank to remove/retorque the bolt; the need for a new bolt; the fact that the pulley socket headed bolts may be chewed up and hard to remove; and the fact that the inner pulley for alternator/water pump (called a vibration damper by VW) may be seized to the actual crank pulley. There must be someone around Oxford who could give you a hand!
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The fuel accumulator for the 1.8 KR engine is 431 133 441C ( I believe to be: Bosch 0438170027 or 0438170040 or 41), and for the 2l 9A engine is 431 133 441 (I believe to be: Bosch 0438170051 or 52 or 0438170061 or 62). Its my understanding that the function of the accumulator is to smooth out pressure fluctuations in fuel supply and to ensure sufficient pressure is maintained in the system to ensure immediate start up. I have however read that some owners have operated engines without an accumulator and experienced nothing more than the inconvenience of cranking the engine several times to start: they have reported the engine runs fine! Can this be true-has anyone a 16v corrado without an accumulator? I would welcome input to a discussion on what accumulator can be used on the Corrado 16v. I believe that the KR accumulator maintains a residual pressure of 2.6 bar, whilst the 9A accumulator maintains a residual pressure of 1.8 bar (please correct this info if its wrong). So, would you be happy with a used KR accum on the 9A or more likely a used 9A accum being put on a KR engine? Since they are expensive (typically £80-170), owners faced with yet another part to replace and failing to find a usable secondhand unit might be tempted to try the cheapest new Bosch accumulator they can find. I cant find any information on Bosch accumulators (residual pressure): does anyone have a source? Has anyone tried one of the cheaper Bosch units eg 043 817 0007 @ £80 on a 16v corrado?
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I gather you have a 1.8 16v with a corroding fuel system. Theres a pump in the fuel tank. This feeds to the main pump under the car. The pipe from pump to accumulator is 191 201 373. This is the one that corrodes-you might still find it at some dealers as its only recently become obsolete (about £45). If you order it from VW Heritage/classic parts it will cost more and you may wait a few weeks for delivery. The accumulator is probably what you are calling a fuel reservoir. Its purpose is to smooth out flow pressure fluctuations and to ensure pressure remains in the system so the car starts on turning the key. Its part no 431 133 441C, (I believe this to be Bosch part no 0438170027). From the dealer this is about £150. These corrode badly so its hard to find a used one unless of course, it had been replaced before the car was scrapped/broken. I have the 2l 16v with 431 133 441, bosch 0438170052-it looks the same and probably fits /works with your 1.8 ( I believe it operates at 1.8 bar rather than 2.6 bar)! The pipe from accumulator to fuel filter (this is much larger than the accumulator) is 535 201 218A and is plastic so doesnt rot. I think its still available at about £35. Both pipes are common to the 1.8 and 2l 16v engines. I have replaced my corroded pump/accumulator pipe with 2 fiittings/nitrile rubber fuel pipe/2 clips at about £12. I should add its difficult to remove pipes in situ from the accumulator, you might have to do it off the car. Also connections at the pump and filter require new copper washers otherwise you may struggle to get a fuel tight connection. I give the above in good faith. Please spend a little time googling (as I do) to satisfy yourself the info I have given is correct before you part with your money!!! If you dont already know search for vagcat, register for free and then access the VAG parts list- a good free source of info.
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I have only 1 mark on my 2l 16v 9A engine flywheeel. The illustration you show is what I expected -I dont have it-I've looked very, very carefully. I take my single mark to be TDC and set up my valve timing with it last Summer when I changed my belt. I used a strobe to set the ignition timing 3 teeth adrift of this -supposedly 6 degrees BTDC. Now that you have found a mark on your flywheel have you turned your engine in the direction of rotation and confirmed that the cam marks, the cam pulley mark, the rotor arm pointing to dist mark, and the single TDC flywheel mark all line up? Until you've done this you cant be certain your valve timing is correct. You may need to adjust the belt. If you then set your ignition timing the engine should run fine on 2 or 3 teeth advance -being out a little shouldn't make the engine run lumpy. I am sure that by now you must be pretty brassed off after all the time /effort you've expended, so I don't want to appear to be rubbing salt in your wounds, and wish I could solve your problem. My concern here is that you have had several separate posts covering one event. By reading these, it appears you've replaced your head gasket but I don't know what issue you had with the car that caused you to do this. You then had a broken key on your cam pulley. You have then started 2 separate posts about flywheel marks. Throughout all this I have no idea when the engine has been turned by hand and when its been started. I suspect you've lost the relationship between cam and crank and at some point done some damage to your valves. I hope I'm wrong! Forum members who are only aware of this post will simply think you need help with ignition timing.
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Carparts4less is also Euocarparts and the prices are often appreciably lower at carparts4less. Your 20 or 25% voucher at Eurocarparts usually equates to the regular price at Carparts4less.
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I'm guessing you have a 2l 9A same as me. I changed my belt last year and have recently reset my ignition timing after fitting a recon distributor so should be able to help. However I am not clear about whats happened, what you have done, and what your problem is now. I thought this was an interference engine, so my first question is: if the cam pulley notch was sheared how/when did this occur and have you bent some valves even though you say you've turned over the engine by hand?? Have you removed the camshaft cover to access the marks on the camshafts and camshaft pulley? How are you determining TDC if you say you've found no flywheel mark? My 9A has only one mark on the flywheel seen through the inspection hole (its at TDC) and is used for setting valve timing when changing the belt. It easy to miss it when turning over the engine by hand. Valve timing is set by marks on the distributor end of both camshafts, a mark on the cam pulley and the flywheel mark. Its easy to be 1 tooth astray when fitting the belt and this only becomes obvious when you turn over the engine in the direction of rotation and confirm the camshaft pulley mark and TDC mark on flywheel are spot on. Taking up the slack on the tensioner doesnt necessarily mean you got it right. Until you are sure that the valve timing is correct, you shouldnt think about the ignition timing. But my real concern is about whether you've lost the relation between crankshaft and camshaft and done some damage??
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If you have to buy a new accumulator its a Bosch part 0438 170 052 or 0438 170 053. The cheapest source I have seen is on Ebay at £92 inc postage : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1x-Bosch-FUEL-ACCUMULATOR-0438170052-/321018487402?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4abe31626a
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Its probably the handle mechanism thats broken - a very common problem. The link below is for a repair kit from Daves16v-theres lots of info on the forum about this. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?10426-Door-handle-repair-kit-THEY-ARE-NOW-AVAILABLE&highlight=handle+repair
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I have a 2l 16v too and occasionally have the same problem. I replaced my slave cylinder without curing the problem. However I've noticed it only happens if the car sits a while with the engine running. I believe its caused by the heat generated by the exhaust manifold. There should be an 'asbestos type' blanket heat shield between manifold and master cylinder and a metal shield between manifold and bulkhead-my car has neither. I think the heat lowers the viscosity of the clutch fluid and softens the master cylinder seals, hence causing temporary failure of the master. I intend to provide the required heat shield to see if this solves my problem. If not I have a used master which I will fit as it must be the master which is at fault. As far as I am aware its not possible to buy a new master which is the reason I sourced a used one! I was wondering whether your car is also missing the heat shields??
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Bumper guides £10 posted: please pm details for payment if these are still available.
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Dont know about the dealers but they are often on EBay: here's just one example. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Audi-Range-inc-Golf-Corrado-Polo-Striker-Door-Pin-357837034-Top-German-/120903146703?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c26639ccf Also at VW Heritage http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_spares_Door-Striker-Pin-Golf-Mk2-84-89-All-90-92-5-door-T4-357837034_act_shop.product_pID_60433833_lang_EN_country_GB.htm
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I replaced the Lambda sensor on my car 94 2l 16v 9A engine last year. The correct Bosch part is 0 258 003 165. Its sold by http://www.carparts4less.co.uk as their part no 710441475 @ £57.54 inc vat and delivery. (if you quote CP5LESS then you get 5% discount off that price). I doubt youll find it cheaper anywhere else-the consensus is that its best not to buy some other cheaper unit-the Bosch part is the one to have. I should add it was impossible to remove the old sensor in situ. I tried releasing the cat at the front end for better access to no avail. I ended up removing the cat from the car and used heat to try to free the sensor. A long ratchet was used to finally free it. Refitting was straightforward with new bolts/nuts at the fore end and a clamp at the rear. The fuel consumption increased from mid 20s to lower 30s on renewing my lambda sensor.
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Late bumper with lower grill £10 boot carpet
bmwcompact replied to Big Adam's topic in Parts for Sale
Hi Adam, Ill have your late bumper-its the grille I want! -
Bumper guide 535 807 194: its on the inside below 'Germany' below 'KKP-B'. I was thinking no more than £8 inc postage-its only small and weighs 60gms!! Pm me your paypal details if you want to make a sale.
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Do you have a drivers side front bumper guide. Its the plastic part 18 cms long with 2 'wheels' that bolts on the side and onto which the bumper slides. If you have one, price with postage please.
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OK. What you may not appreciate is that we are not talking about an electrical sensor here. Its a mechanical/hydraulic device with 2 brake pipes from the front of the car and 2 to the rear of the car. So if its remove then the braking system has to be bled. If you looked at the link you will see what it is. The link isnt showing the part any more Put in your cars details and search on 'Brake regulator' and it will appear.
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Where do I start? Many corrados have an issue with the brake regulator (load sensor). It usually seizes and has to be replaced. Its often a pig to remove and has to be destroyed to get it off the car. It can cost silly money (£100 plus) and then theres the labour element too. Thats why the info I gave above about the cheap source is important. You've been told your rear brakes are seized-presumably meaning no brake force being applied on the rear discs. The regulator controls flow of fluid to the rear brakes: when theres weight on the back of the car, more rear brake force is needed. If the regulator is seized its possible little or insufficient fluid is being directed to the rear brakes. Its also possible theres an issue with the rear brakes as well as/instead of the regulator being the cause. Dont you know someone who can help/take a look and offer their advice? Outfits like Kwikfit love to get their hands on those not in the know. They usually end up replacing everything in sight and presenting you with a huge bill. Good luck!
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Do you mean brake regulator 357 612 151? If so then the best/ cheapest source is http://www.carparts4less.co.uk/other-brake-hydraulics at 45.54 inc vat and delivery. Its the genuine ATE part-I dont think anyone else comes close pricewise. (the link has my car details but its the same part for your 1.8 16v-I checked) I think you would be unwise to fit a used one unless its an almost new part coming off a breaker!
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http://www.germanautopartsdirect.co.uk/VOLKSWAGEN-CORRADO-ELECTRICAL/c2_65_165/p3615/WIPER-MOTOR-1C0955119/product_info.html If you decide on the Febi unit, this firm may do you a better deal. They list at £20.54 plus vat plus carriage. Ive never had a problem with orders from them but its not always in stock and you may have to wait a couple of days. Might be worth a phone call?
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I reckon that you should have 1CO 955 119 (assuming you are rhd) which is on the list-dont know where 536 955 113A comes from? Checked Ebay and there are Corrado used wiper motors for sale with your no 536 955 113A. Febi site confirms 1CO 955 119 also correct for your car.
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Recognising that this forum is a source of info on faults/repairs for Corrado owners I would like to add to what's already been said in the Forum Wiki on repairing/replacing heater controls. If you are not interested in doing this you may wish to read no further. If you are, you need to read /reread the wiki or you might not follow this post! http://wiki.the-corrado.net/late_heater_control_repair.html I have a 93 year build 2l 16v with 137K. The heater matrix was apparently replaced 6 years (10K miles ago) so I wasn't the first to delve here! Like many owners, I found on purchase of my C, an inability to direct air to cabin/footwell/demist. I thought I'd have to live with this after reading posts on the forum and assumed my control unit was shot and was expensive to fix. I spotted a new unit for sale, described as Golf 3, but clearly early 90s Passat (358 819 045) and therefore suitable for mod to fit the C (as outlined in forum Wiki). I negotiated a price and on receipt found the unit to have a date 22 FEB 1990-it was new but it appeared someone had tried to fit it to a car (Golf 3 ?) as it had marks where the Bowden cable clips fit. I removed the centre console to access the control unit. There were problems with 2 screws accessed after pulling out the 2 top vents-you need a right angle crosspoint screwdiver. My control unit had 2 broken tabs, and the right hand (flow direction) mechanism was a scene of destruction-see photo on left. Specifically the main wheel which drives 2 levers was broken on the underside track (photo), its point of rotation on the base of the unit was broken off (photo), the V shaped metal clip shown in the photo was dislodged and the plastic holding it in place broken (photo shows it laying on the middle wheel). The mounting location for the Bowden cable of the top lever on the right wheel was broken and the cable attached with a cable tiewrap (not shown). There were no problems with the Bowden cables: when they were operated, the flaps moved without difficulty. Those who have found an adhesive that they believe bonds plastic successfully may have had a chance to effect some repair here!! I'm mostly a non believer. Having acquired the new Passat unit, I set about modifying it in accordance with the procedure found on the Forum Wiki. No one has stated that patience is required to dismantle/modify/reassemble the unit. Those not in possession of this faculty may find that after several hours they have a heap of plastic scrap-they've attacked it with a hammer in frustration! I found several watchmakers flat bladed screwdrivers helped in separating the front part of the control from the gear wheel behind. (Removal of the dial knob is easy-its separating the actual control from the wheel behind that's difficult). The photo (right) shows the modified Passat unit. The removed parts in the foreground are: the rotating dial with copper contact which has to be changed for the one from the C, the centre front plastic dial and the metal arm previously behind the fan speed dial ). On reassembly you have to fiddle with the angular position of the fan speed front dial relative to the rear helical wheel to get the control knob position right. The V shaped clip on the right side was removed as per the Wiki procedure. The Wiki stated you need to change the fan speed rear helical wheel-thats not so-they meant the front part with copper contacts as stated above. I had a missing Bowden cable fixing clip (where the tiewrap was used) but found someone selling them on Ebay. Its all together now and working the way it was on leaving the factory: long may it remain so. I can only echo the words of those who have gone before me: its the biggest load of crap VW have ever designed/manufactured. How could they make this out of plastic/expect it to survive and charge so much for a replacement? Edit: the eagle eyed among you may have spotted (right photo) that the clear plastic 'spider' sending light to the dials isn' t correctly located -it should be in the centre of the left helical gear. I did rectify before fitting! [ATTACH=CONFIG]71996[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]71999[/ATTACH]