bmwcompact

Agree with seanl82 on possible suppliers: try to get Lemforder (as they are often the maker of the original part) though they are not so common, many go for Febi engine mounts as they are widely available and not expensive. Theres a huge variation in price and sometimes the best is found on Ebay, though that may not be for all the mounts.

I beg to differ: there are a whole no of distributors that fit. Basically any distributor that takes its drive from the cam on a VW 16v engine fits, ie corrado, golf, passat. There are lots of different part nos but they are all basically the same. The recon dist I have on my 2l 9A was described as suitable for Golf GTI 16v ie KR engine. VW parts nos that are suitable: 051 905 237, 051 905 237X, 051 905 205A, 051 905 205B , 051 905 205C or 027 905 205P

Hi James, good to hear from you. I went for a spin again this morning and it really does feel like a different car (and its still to be aligned). It now feels solid like I always expected it to be. I wish I'd done this last Summer. Hope the work continues to go well with your VR6.

Yes it doesn't take up much space: it comes flat pack and the 2 feet are bolted on.

Kevin I'm sure I've read your post on the subject several times and this was one of the reasons I decided to do it. I suspect the hub was worn by a previous bearing as the one I removed didn't show signs that this was the cause. I reckon someone in the past didn't notice or more likely couldn't be bothered to replace the worn hub. Have you read my earlier post on my new press? I'm about to do a front bearing on my PUG 306. Its currently sounding like a train-it happened very quickly and no one could mistake the cause.

I’ve never been happy with the ride comfort/handling/feel of my 16v since I bought it last year. I’ve replaced the shockers, wishbones, track rod ends, drop links, anti-roll bar bushes, top mounts, rear beam bushes, engine mounts, and changed to 15” wheels in my efforts to bring the cars ride and handling up to par. The car was obviously greatly improved but still somehow not as it should be. Despite having no front wheel bearing noises and finding no detectable play in the front wheels, I decided to replace both front wheel bearings. Removing the knuckles was easy because of the recently fitted parts. The offside bearing felt a bit dry but not rough/noisy when the knuckle was removed from the car. The nearside was worse, there was play both radially and axially: the inboard inner race was loose on the hub. Since this cannot be rectified, a new hub was required. I took the opportunity to clean up the knuckles with an angle grinder flappy disc and painted them. The ABS sensors were seized in place. To prevent problems in the future, new sensors were fitted using stainless steel capscrews. All went back together quickly this morning. Camber was roughly set, and off I went to see whether there was any improvement. It was immediately obvious that the car now feels solid: that loose/light feel to the steering wheel has gone. The transmission noise that’s always been a part of the car has also gone to be replaced with the noise of the engine. Obviously the car still needs to have wheels correctly aligned but its clear that worn bearings/wheel hub were the problem. I think I have just verified what many members have previously said: replace all rubber, ball joints, trackrod ends and if there's still a problem, do the wheel bearings! Photo shows worn hub: shiny bottom half as it should be/interference fit with race; matt top half had loose fit race allowing play in the hub. [ATTACH=CONFIG]73893[/ATTACH] Photo shows knuckle cleaned/painted with new bearing/hub fitted. [ATTACH=CONFIG]73892[/ATTACH] Photo shows new ABS sensor fitted with s/steel capscrew (wheel with old hub retained) [ATTACH=CONFIG]73894[/ATTACH] (For those that don't know it: the front wheel bearing has 2 rows of balls, enclosed in a single outer race but has 2 separate back to back inner races)

I have just replaced both the front bearings on my 16v. The task was made easier by my recent purchase of a 6 ton press and set of bearing/seal drivers. Total outlay for these was £88.31 inc delivery (ordered Sunday and arrived Tuesday at 10am). I have replaced many bearings/bushes in the past using drifts (large sockets) and a hammer or metal discs and a length of stud iron. However for a fwd car, when doing a front wheel bearing, I have always taken the knuckle to a garage for them to do the pressing. The press and drivers were bought from http://www.kmsdirect.co.uk. They advertise their range on Ebay and Amazon but the cheapest deal is done on their own website. (Today they don't list the press on their website but its still on Ebay????) The photo below gives an idea of the size of the press (knuckle with bearing fitted had just been pressed onto a new hub). It has a sturdy frame, an adjustable height table for the workpiece and is powered by a hydraulic cylinder resembling a bottle jack. The pressing ram is simply a metal rod guided through a tube in the framework. The set of drivers are made of aluminium with dimensions suitable for most bearings. This is clearly not a professional piece of equipment. For the home mechanic who only uses a press once in a blue moon, it’s a great addition to the workshop. It took but a few minutes to dismantle/rebuild the hub assemblies. I expect it would good for wishbone bush replacement. I thought some forum members might consider as I do, that this was a small outlay for such a useful tool and might be inspired to follow my lead-buy the kit and do your own bearings! [ATTACH=CONFIG]73891[/ATTACH]

I agree, these are high quality bearings used in many industrial applications, but do you know who sells Timken or NTN bearings for the corrado?

Can't help you with originals but.......if you are looking for a solution to crumbling pipes........ make your own using: banjo fitting, conical hose tail fitting, nitrile fuel hose and clips from http://www.advancedfluidsolutions.co.uk. I only made the accumulator to pump hose-it cost me about £11 inc postage. You will struggle to break the connections to the accumulator. On 2l 16v -(1.8 may be different I haven't checked) you need the following: M16 x 1.5mm conical hose tail fitting for 6mm ID hose (accumulator end) M12 banjo with hose tail fitting for 6mm ID hose (pump end: you reuse the hollow pump bolt because it also contains a 1 way valve)) 1/2 Metre nitrile fuel hose 6mm ID and 2 off clips (minimum order length)

SKF or FAG or SNR are the only ones I would use with SKF the first choice (probably originally fitted by VW). I'm in the middle of doing my front bearings with SKF that I bought at a good price (an offer no longer available). There are a few companies on Ebay selling VR6 SKF rears for approx £12 and fronts approx £30. Carparts4less have VR6 SNR rears for £12 and fronts for £30.60 (inc Vat and delivery). The last time I looked GSF were selling FAG rears for approx £17 I wouldn't use Febi: they are OK for some things but not for others. (My Febi top mounts lasted only 3K-similar stories on this forum about their rear beam bushes). Just trawl through all possible suppliers on the internet including Ebay and only consider these 3 premium brands. If you have time you could also enquire about brands like Firstline, Unipart and Quinton Hazell: they often buy in premium parts and simply package them as their own. One of my SKF bearings was packaged as Unipart. And finally, if you are doing your fronts, be aware that its possible you may have to replace the hub. One of mine is worn on the inboard side such that the inner race rotates (it should be an interference fit). I was not aware of any play prior to dismantling.

Eurocarparts/Carparts4less was discussed very recently here. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?80403-Quick-tip-when-buying-parts&p=964692#post964692

Jetex are considered to be one of the best. A full system sells for £360: http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performance/exhaust-systems/car/volkswagen/corrado/1990/1-8-16v/jetex-performance-stainless-steel-cat-back-exhaust-system-single-oval-90x120mm-tailpipe

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Thanks for doing this. I'm interested in a VR set assuming final cost is similar to last time (less than £40 delivered in UK). No emblem required.

The nuts are supposed to be held captive by little inserts in the hollow rear beam. If the bolts are rusted in, then these inserts fail to stop the nut turning. If I remember correctly its not possible to get a ring spanner in to hold the nut unless you first prize out the insert. Obviously it helps to spray the area with penetrating oil and wait for a while. I never refitted the inserts so that future access to the nut is easier.

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If you want a good brand buy Lemforder from Carparts4less. Assuming you have a VR6 then its £17.94 for a ball joint and £10.92 for a track rod end. Lemforder probably made the originals. I doubt anyone will sell these at a lower price. If thats too expensive then I've used QH, TRW and Febi for example: better not to buy anything off Ebay thats not branded and is very cheap.

I have a Jetex Stainless rear box, never fitted, believe it is suitable for either 16v or G60 with hooked hangers. This is 2.5" system, ie larger pipework than standard Corrado so wont fit directly to 'suitcase' box. (markings say TYP 028, ART NO DP028-47 For sale at £100 collected from south Cumbria or could arrange delivery probably £10-15.

Ive been buying VW/BMW parts mail order/internet from Eurocarparts for as long as I can remember. Now that they also trade as Carparts4less at even better prices thats where I buy. Delivery is always fast and free even if you only order an oil filter: if you live in a remote/rural part of the country its the easiest way to purchase parts. But do your homework and see what's available: buy Lemforder suspension/steering parts, Boge/Sachs shock absorbers, ATE/Pagid brake parts, Bosch/Hella/Valeo electrical parts and so on. This way you get quality parts at a discount. If you buy some of the cheaper brands/their own branded goods then you know what to expect! But if you only do 3/4K a year and its not an important performance/safety related part, it may make sense to buy a cheaper pattern part. I also deal with GSF, Veedudmachine, Germanautopartsdirect, AVS carparts: there is sometimes a saving to be made with one or the other depending on whats to be purchased. Fortunately my nearest VW dealer will order nuts/bolts/gaskets/light adjusters etc when asked to do so and even drops them off at a local garage so I dont have to collect.

Have you seen this one on Ebay?? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOLKSWAGEN-CORRADO-1-8i-COUPE-SILENCER-BOX-VW672-/160896133088?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3ACorrado&hash=item25762827e0 You need to check its the right one-it may be the later one for the 9A despite what the ad says!

Caster wheel: 535 837 437. Haven' t stripped out a door yet but I believe thats the part you need.

I asked the question recently: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?78940-Suspension-steering-settings

If it helps, only KR or 9A engined cars from F50-N -000-001 (thats 93/94/95 I think) will have correct part: 535 919 051B. VR6 and 8v have different arrangement.

While you are it, check the rubber bush in the pedal that the cable hooks into. If its worn/torn or perished the hook will detach itself at some point in the future resulting in sudden and unexpected loss of speed. Part no 191 721 559.