bmwcompact

I believe that there are a no. of distributors that will fit the 9a. When I replaced mine a while ago I searched the web for donors and found the following list.They all take their drive from the camshaft and are 16v engines. The Hall sender is sometimes slightly different but i think they will all fit OK. 1.8 16v KR corrado Golf/Jetta MK2 gti 16v Passat 1.8/2 16v scirocco 1.8 16v Bosch nos: 023752 then 10,28,35,44,or 46, VW: 051505 then 237, 237X , 205A, 205B,or 205C VW: 027905205P VW: 0986237667 My own 9A has 051905205C

You are correct in saying the ABS master cyl is obsolete and does not appear to be available anywhere. The ATE ABS master cyl with vw part no 358 611 019D has a bore of 23.8mm (reflected by the 6123 in 10.6123-0600.3). About 6 months ago I spent ages searching the internet/this forum and others for info in the belief that a new master cyl must be available. I even contacted ATE. All to no avail. I concluded that the only option was to find a good used cylinder. The 0600.3 part appears to reflect manufacturing date/ irrelevant mods to the part so can vary. My original cyl, for instance, is 10.6123-0680.3. My spare is a slightly later manufactured cyl from a MK3 Golf and is 10.6123.0690.3 There are threads on this and other forums showing complete replacement of the braking system with that from later VWs to get around this problem.

Sorry to hear the sensor replacement didnt fix your problem. Im not good on car electrics but I have noticed that sometimes problems are caused by broken wires/poor contacts rather than defective sensors. Have you thought of extracting the ECU, inspecting/cleaning contacts, checking cable continuity from throttle potentiometer, temp sensor, lambda sensor etc to ECU or even trying another ECU (if you can borrow one). It might be worth a try rather than continuing to buy/replace parts in the hope of a solution.

Theres no small spring on my 16v. I replaced the regulator this summer and only have the large spring!

Look at http://www.vwspares.co.uk-they have pretty well everything you might need at much better prices than VW.

Not sure what info you are seeking? Generally the part which is the problem on the wiper mechanism is the short linkage (about 8ins long) on the drivers side. The plastic ball joint wears and it keeps popping out. The replacement part is 536 955 325. If you can find one in a dealers its about £14.50 (some have old stock). Its been obsolete since early this Summer. My dealer got me one from Germany and charged about £25.

In my many years of VW ownership I have never removed an intermediate shaft (polos, jettas, golfs, scirocco and corrado). I have the Haynes manual for a MK 2 Golf and Haynes 1647 for Passat 88-91 which covers the 9A engine. What I do know is that the intermediate shaft can be pulled forward out of the engine once the seal flange is removed but only with the engine removed-theres not enough space with the engine in situ. You dont need to remove the sump or oil pump to do this. The Passat manual shows a photo of the shaft removed and says the journals should be inspected for wear. Theres no mention of its bearings. The Golf manual says 'If the shaft is in good order, but the bearings in the block are worn, this job is beyond your scope: you may even need a new block, so seek expert advice." Maybe its the shaft journal which is worn. Haynes sometimes says a job is not possible and it is! Your mechanic would be best advised to seek advice from someone in the trade who deals with VW engines and knows the score. Maybe someone on this forum whose rebuilt an engine can offer a more optimistic note. Good luck-I am interested to hear the outcome. Just found this -may help your mechanic and sounds more encouraging than Haynes: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=9&cad=rja&ved=0CGsQFjAI&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.clubgti.com%2Fshowthread.php%3F239239-9a-intermediate-shaft-bearing(with-pic)&ei=GzihUIK0CaeW0QWopYGIAQ&usg=AFQjCNEm3pIbi5BsQ_079CiINV-PTAKPCA&sig2=cqSkUQIsDh0KUiHDGr8MOQ

On the 9A the white and white/black are for the ISV-theres no WUR on a 9A!

Some years ago I had (for 10yrs) a Mk2 Golf gti 8v (112 bhp) and (for 5yrs) a BMW E30 318is (140bhp). I used them both regularly. For long journeys eg motorway the E30 was superb, so comfy and unstressed and gave 30-35mpg depending on driving conditions. For fast cross country travel here in the lakes the Golf was better, lighter and more nimble and gave 33-40 mpg. The BMW was a much better built car and never suffered from any corrosion. In those days I did 20K/yr. Now I have a BMW E36 compact 318ti sport (140bhp, 88K and 13yrs old) and a 2l 16v Corrado (140bhp, 136K and 18yrs old). Both give about 30/34mpg though for short journeys the BMW mpg is better. The BMW has better brakes (Ive overhauled the corrado brakes). The BMW has better suspension ( Ive replaced almost everything on the corrado suspension. The BMW has no corrosion and great paintwork. The corrado is faster (acceleration) especially at higher revs. I like the look of the corrado. Ive spent a lot on the Corrado and had it less than a year. Ive spent almost nothing on the BMW in my 4 yrs of ownership. I always wanted a corrado but couldnt afford one when I had the Golf-that is my favourite car to date! The corrado hasnt lived up to my expectations in terms of performance/handling but having personally (almost) sorted it, I will be keeping it as my Summer hobby car. It would never replace the BMW as a daily!! Ive just reread your post. Ive owned about 12 VWs and only 3 BMWs over the last 40yrs and would say BMW built quality/reliability is better than VW. So for a 1.8 16v corrado, age is your enemy, and unless someone has sorted it, you should expect some issues!

I've not had the head off my 9A engine (head gasket/heater matrix had already been done) but I have replaced the 3 front end oil seals: camshaft, intermediate shaft and crankshaft. So its only a thought but you might considered doing these while you're at it if they have not been done. Both the camshaft and intermediate shaft were leaking badly on mine when I bought it with 134K on the clock. No one has mentioned overhauling the head ie removing/inspecting/cleaning valves and regrinding them. Its something I did on my 8v golf gti, scirocco, polo etc when the head gasket got done. It depends on how confident you are and how much time you have. I bought a tool to remove the valves, and I am sure you could borrow/hire one if you decide to do the job! I have Haynes 1647, Passat May 88 to 91, not the commonest manual on Ebay, but I think thats the one any 2l 16v Corrado owner should have.

All 3 oil seals are the same. 068 103 085E is one number but there may be others since the seal probably fits various engines/cars which may have different nos. They are widely available, Ebay, Febi from lots of sources, etc much cheaper than VAG. Its a good idea to change all 3 seals. I changed my belt and camshaft seal only to find I still had a leak-it was the intermediate shaft seal (drives oil pump). The handbook says the seal housing should be removed to replace this seal. The crankshaft seal presents some with a problem-they cant lock the crankshaft to remove the crankshaft pulley-theres lots of info on the forum. Similarly its important to use a new crankshaft pulley bolt and to torque it up correctly. There are lots of problems with this coming loose if not done correctly. (again documented on Forum) I'm assuming you are happy with setting the timing/tensioning the belt. I have a 9A, and I have changed all 3 seals.

See my response to your pm.

As above. I have also read on this forum that its important to bleed the brakes before attaching the handbrake cables otherwise the pistons dont self adjust correctly. Sounds possible but I have no personal experience to validate this-maybe worth a try?

OK I have a 2l 16v not a G60. You are concerned about noise-how many boxes do you have? Apart from the cat (which you say is not present) I think you should have 3 boxes. The front one is small, then the so called suitcase box then the rear silencer. Many cars inc mine have the small front box removed. My car isnt noisy-it has the cat, a supersprint suitcase replacement and rear silencer. Do you still have the suitcase or has that also been removed? I think many cars only have 2 boxes but where legally required still have the cat. and are fine noise wise. However there are reports here of cheap s/s systems being fitted that are noisy-supersprint, miltek, magnex and Jetex seem to be the preferred quality brands. Another point to mention is that the original system was 2.25 ins OD but many stainless replacements are 2.5 ins OD. If you are just replacing the rear silencer then you need to be sure its the right size for the rest of your system. As has been mentioned, earlier cars have hook type hangers, later cars have simple bars and rubber hangers to suit. I think you will have hooks. Finally if you have 2.5 in OD pipes and you want a rear silencer with hooks I have a new stainless Jetex silencer bought for a G60 but never fitted. Its the standard box design with oval tail.

http://www.vwspares.co.uk TRW carrier @ 18.96 inc vat if you cant find a good used one.

I think someone has made a mistake with the price (probably should be 49 not 29). Look at their prices for all other variants of Toyo Proxe T1R15'' tyres. The last time I took advantage of such a 'good offer' I had several weeks of emails trying to get me to pay the proper price, non delivery, and after about 3 weeks finally had my credit card refunded. You may get lucky but if lots of people suddenly order they'll soon spot the mistake.

About 10yrs ago I had a scirocco with fuel injection. I had the same problem as you-but in my case serious oil/water contamination. The car had about 130K on the clock and I assumed it was the head gasket despite the fact that I had overhauled the head at around 120K. The problem was the oil cooler!! I was advise to change my radiator because it was difficult to flush out all the oil and have a decent cooling system. I don't know whether this was really necessary but I bought a new radiator too. My 16v corrado has 136K on the clock. Reading your post has made me nervous. For the sake of £30, I think I should change the oil cooler! Carparts4less.co.uk has the best deal.

You guys were lucky if you got one from a VW dealer recently at the list price of £13.20 ish.!! Ive just waited 3 weeks or so for one from Classic parts in Germany via my local VW dealer at a cost of £25.20 (apparently I had to pay a share in the postage costs). The part no is 536 955 325, unique to Corrados, wasn't listed online by either Classic parts or Heritage parts. The good news is that it has transformed my wipers. For the first time in my ownership the wipers now actually work-no polo/TT mods-just standard kit. If when you grab your wiper its possible to rotate it several inches-mega movement-then its likely this linkage is worn and causing problems. Photo is the old worn one replaced today!

Yes right part, and yes the Hall sender is in the distributor. (If you Google 'Hall sender' you'll find that this inpulse sender is also technically a type of Hall sender-its all about sensing current changes/magnetism) Ive never been clear about the function of the Impulse sensor (sender). The car runs without it fitted (I found mine wasn't fitted after months of ownership). Some have said it is the device which tells the ECU engine speed and hence determines how much to advance the ignition. I would have thought that info would come from the Hall sender in the distributor. To me it seems to be a feedback loop for the ECU (a check on whether the ignition is doing as its told). I'm happier with mechanical things, what I cant see I struggle to understand.

Sorry but I need to correct your terminology!!! The 2l 16v 9A engine has 2 knock sensors. These are bolted to the front of the block. If pre-ignition (pinking) takes place, these detect this, feed the info to the ECU and the ignition is retarded. There is also an impulse sensor (an ignition reference sensor). This is what you are talking about:part no 051 905 381. Its a small inductive coil through which lead 4 is threaded. It tells the ECU when an electrical pulse firing cyl 4 passes along the lead. I dont think it matters about its position along the lead but I was told that the pointed end of the sensor must point to the distributor. If you have VW leads the connector pulls off the lead-its not screwed on- and it requires effort to remove it. It should then be easy to thread the lead through the sensor. Unfortunately its a tight fit. I resorted to pliers to squeeze the metal crimping on the ignition lead. I have read someone removed then refit the metal crimping. So in theory easy, in practice it seems like you're going to break something!! Hope that helps.

You should inspect the rubber bush in the pedal that the cable hooks into. If its worn or torn, the cable slips out and suddenly you've no accelerator. I posted the info on the forum a few months ago. Theres a guy on Ebay who sells them but he's on holiday until 26th Aug and has nothing listed at present-cost £2.50

Different type of bearings front and rear. Rears wear and need to be adjusted to take up the slack. Fronts non adjustable. That's my answer. Lets see if anyone disagrees!!

I noticed there was a red 8v for sale in York (was it on Ebay or the forum?). It sounded OK and I thought the guys going to Harewood would all be going to check it out if it was still for sale. Looks like you got there first. Hope it turns out a good one and you have a good journey home. Just found your other post about exhaust systems. I bought my 16v back in Feb after looking for an 8v. I had a Golf 2 GTI for 10yrs and was always happy with the performance, low down grunt and economy (37/38mpg regularly). Ive talked to a couple of people with an 8v as their daily and they say the same. Have fun!!

Great shot of the car and the scenery isnt bad too. I think corrados always look good from that angle.

Good! I should have said, mine has a 15 amp fuse in pos 4-you said it had blown before. Do you have correct fuse?