bmwcompact

2 off Uniroyals ordered from Mr L @ £31.50 each and a £10 donation made to the forum in lieu of his services as requested-with thanks.

Is this of any interest to you-its not mine. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Corrado-2-0-8v-Middle-and-Rear-Exhaust-section-backbox-volkswagen-/290848931396?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3ACorrado&hash=item43b7f27e44 ---------- Post added at 2:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 2:14 PM ---------- Is this of any interest to you-its not mine. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Corrado-2-0-8v-Middle-and-Rear-Exhaust-section-backbox-volkswagen-/290848931396?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3ACorrado&hash=item43b7f27e44

Thanks for your replies David and Jim. You have both confirmed what I thought-its not really an issue!

When it comes to body panels and external/ internal trim, you have to buy used parts either here, breakers or Ebay. Because of the limited nos of corrados made, there are no huge stocks of new parts out there: anything unique to the corrado may be difficult/impossible to find new. Corrados seem to be more valuable broken rather than sold as a whole so there's a steady stream of used parts from these cars. Many mechanical parts are similar to Golf 2 and so are widely available from different manufactures/retailers. VW don't support the corrado too well, and obviously parts are expensive when available. VW classic parts in Germany and VW heritage their agent in the UK have some hard to find parts. Some parts can be found in Germany/America. This is a good forum with many long term corrado enthusiasts and help in sourcing parts is usually available. Just dont buy a corrado and expect to be able to find every part in an instant. Having said that there are many here who use their corrados as their daily. Welcome to the forum and good luck with your search for a car!

The December 2012 issue of the Sprinter had an article on setting up the Corrado suspension/steering. It mentioned several times that the tracking should only be adjusted using the offside track rod, and that the dimension of the nearside track rod was set/fixed and should not be altered. What is the correct length for the nearside track rod as this was not given? (It was stated the track rod would need to be removed to set to correct length). Is it the same for all variants? I am sure lots of cars have had track rod ends replaced and hence the track rod length changed. Why is this important?

(I have sourced an ATE 10.0501-7836.3 (note 7836, not 7835) from a Golf 3. Does anyone know if they are interchangeable? Does 7836 supersede 7835? They certainly look the same.) When I looked for a spare ATE brake master cylinder, ( looking at golf 3 cylinders for my ABS corrado ) I came to the conclusion that the last group of numbers after the dash signify mods/revisions/manuf. date. I may be wrong but I think you are probably OK and have simply found a slightly later unit! When I contacted ATE about substitutes they simply stated the master cylinder was now obsolete and there was no alternative, ie they weren't interested!

I dont have a G60 but offer the following which you can check!! The feed hose is 191 819 371E (the longer of the 2 ) Return hose 191 819 373H (specifically for G60) Im not sure which hose is the one you need. If its the feed (the longer one) then the ebay link gives you a new hose. If its the other one, not sure what the difference is (there are A,B,C and and H), but it would appear the return hose in the advert is the wrong one for a G60. Hope this is some help. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-MK2-1-6-1-8-GTI-HEATER-MATRIX-COOLANT-WATER-HOSES-191819371E-A115-/200877122076?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3AVW&hash=item2ec535a21c ---------- Post added at 9:33 AM ---------- Previous post was at 8:12 AM ---------- Both 191 819 371E and 191 819 373H are available from VW Heritage, Meyle parts @ £5.50 each. You can search for them by part no.

A slight digression but relevant! I have a 94 2l 16V. I recently removed my front bumper to make good a previously bodged repair and to tidy up whatever else I found. So the apron was cleaned up and repainted. Headlamps were removed, dismantled, cleaned and reassembled. Fogs/sidelights cleaned. Stainless screws sourced (Ebay) for fog lights, headlamps and air deflectors. The radiator fan cowl was somewhat corroded so cleaned up and painted. With battery and airbox removed, all front end/lights wiring loom rebound in tape sourced on Ebay. Then I spotted this post! I tried to remove my radiator brackets. One came off no problem -the other seized. Eventually removed. I cleaned up and painted the brackets and renewed the bolts. All reassembled with coppereeze. So, if the radiator ever needs replacing I now know the brackets can be removed and that its necessary to remove the radiator grille to access the bolts for the radiator/air deflectors before the radiator can be removed. I need a replacement bumper grille ( the old one had a third missing and what remained was severely damaged ). I belief I have a source. Hopefully all will be reassembled soon. The front end will look better and I will know the rust worm has been successfully repelled in this area. My simple message: Its winter, lots of us have a Corrado as a second/Summer car, and this is the sort of work to do now that costs little and improves the car's appearance/longevity greatly. Remove your bumper and see what's lurking there!!

I see VW Heritage sell Meyle top mounts for the 16v (357 412 329) at about £12.50 each. Has anyone tried these and like to offer an opinion. First Line mounts are widely available (about £20 each), so again has anyone an opinion on these. Carparts4less are advertising Lemforder at £14.70 each (but it may be necessary to check thats what they will actually supply). I currently have Febi which were fine on my Golf mk 2 8v GTI, but I can confirm above info: mine appear to be disintegrating after only 3K miles on the 16v Corado. My own choice would be Lemforder!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOLKSWAGEN-CORRADO-2-9-VR6-STORM-GREAT-CONDITION-FSH-ONE-LADY-OWNER-SINCE-1999-/170972944485?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item27cec81865 Saw this on Ebay and thought of you-maybe mileage too high but otherwise looks interesting??

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Hi Lukasz, Following on from James153 I would suspect the throttle body potentiometer (its underneath the throttle body on the end of the spindle). It caused an intermittent problem not unlike yours on my 9A. Its actually 2 switches in one. It tells the ECU when the throttle is closed and when wide open. On a 9A 2.0 16v the throttle body has a 3 pin connector for the potentiometer. Pin 2 being the earth and 1 & 3 are Closed and Wide open switch feeds respectively. If you wish to check if yours is working, carry out the following tests: pin condition resistance 1&2 Throttle closed Zero 1&2 Throttle Slightly open Infinity 2&3 Throttle closed Infinity 2&3 Throttle fully open Zero If you're getting anything else you have a faulty switch. Mine tested OK but then thats the nature of intermittent problems. A new pot is expensive (120/140). No-one sells them used: you have to buy a throttle body complete with the pot-and make sure you confirm its present and working OK. You may find one for £20/30. Note that the system is different for the 1.8 KR engine -it has micro switches so dont get a throttle body from a KR) Fitting a used throttle body cured my intermittent problem. Thats no guarantee it will cure yours: there may be some other issue????? I would certainly check there are no vacuum leaks first-that costs nothing.

I have a 9A 2l 16v. This is what I have: There are 2 pressure sensors on the oil cooler: from memory the low pressure one is 0.3 bar and the high pressure one 1.8 bar. If you remove them the pressure should be stamped/etched on them. The LP one confirms oil pressure on start up/tickover (oil light goes out)and the HP one confirms min required pressure as the revs rise (oil light comes on if pressure insufficient). So as stated above the sensor may be faulty-get it changed asap. It wont do the engine much good if there is actually a problem with low pressure/insufficient lubrication

Yes I read that Andy, thanks. The Ibiza splitter is a possibility!

You can buy an after market Mk2 big bumper chin splitter for under £25. It comes in 2 halves, left and right. That really was the reason I posted. I was hoping someone would tell me for certain that either this or something else would fit. I dont want to spend £25 and find it either doesnt fit or looks terrible. There must be many owners who would love to find a cheap way of getting a new splitter!

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Good luck: I've read carbon fibre is brittle (unlike plastic) and wont survive long. I'm sure members here would be interested in how successful you are.

Sorry-I should have made it clearer. I won't pay £150/200 for a new strip of plastic or even £50/70 for a second hand one. It should cost £15/20: there's no way its worth so much! There are folks on this forum that buy a whole car for only a few hundred pounds. I am looking for a cheap alternative to trying to repair my existing damaged splitter with fibreglass and filler.

Its probably been discussed in the past but searches have revealed little! Is it possible to fit a splitter off any other car to the corrado with or without modification? For example there are many Golf MK 1,2,3,4,5 splitters available cheaply on Ebay. What's involved in getting any of them to fit or is it too much effort with a poor looking end result? Are there any non VAG group cars that have a suitable splitter? Is there no choice other than to try to repair a damaged original or find a good secondhand corrado splitter. Photos of any alternatives appreciated

There are 2 on the oil cooler: from memory the low pressure one is 0.3 bar and the high pressure one 1.8 bar. If you remove them the pressure should be stamped/etched on them. For those that dont know, the LP one confirms oil pressure on start up/tickover (oil light goes out)and the HP one confirms min required pressure as the revs rise (oil light comes on if pressure insufficient).

If you do replace it the best price for the ATE part was £44 from carparts4less.co.uk (back in July) . I think from VW the same part is more like £150.

Nope. Only had my Corrado since Feb and spent most of the Summer sorting out mechanical issues: shocks, wishbones, oil seals, cam belt, lambda, rear beam bushes, brakes, cracked manifold..........bonnet respray-just about sorted now. Its a Summer toy-playing with old cars helps relieve the boredom when its raining and I cant get on the fells or in the garden. Didn't know until recently that there was a VW group in Cumbria-may investigate next Spring.

Im guessing D90s are some kind of wheel???? If so no. My wheels are usually 15 inch Westwoods (fitted to late 16v and 8V corrados) but recently 17 inch Ripspeeds just for the MOT (good tyres).

The valve lever should return itself when tension on the large spring is released. The large spring is attached to the regulator arm (via the plastic clip shown in the photo) and to a bracket. At the bracket the spring hook wraps around a plastic bobbin. The retaining bolt passes through the bobbin to the bracket (there are also washers). There's a slot in the bracket so that you can adjust the position of the retaining bolt to take up the slack in the spring. Sorry I don't have a picture. Hope you understand my explanation. The point is there's a bobbin not just a bolt, and adjustment may be needed.

I like to see a guy rescuing a car and getting stuck in-you seem to have all the skills necessary. Its looking good!! I'm near Dalton in Furness so will keep a look out for you. My grey 16v L reg has just been put away for the Winter. I too was at Tatton (not in my corrado) but don't recall seeing your car!