bmwcompact

Welcome to the forum. I was in your position about 6moths ago-A 16v off Ebay for around £750 and 134K and a few issues. Its taken me a while to sort mine, (I had some of your problems). Some things will be straightforward, others take a little more time/effort/money than you expect. The general rule appears to be that unless you're lucky you'll end up spending £1000 sorting brakes, suspension, maybe wheels/exhaust/electrics. It surprising how quickly it adds up. Ive had lots of vws in the past so thought it would be easy-it wasnt all plain sailing My biggest breakthrough was getting the fuel consumption from mid twenties to mid thirties: I achieved this by ditching the old/aftermarket lambda sensor and replacing it with the correct Bosch unit. ( £54 if you know where to buy it) Best of luck-you'll get lots of help here!

Would you like to do a straight swap for my pearl grey 16v? Sorry mine doesnt come with those nice leather seats and the paint works not so good but it does have Tax and MOT for the next few months!

Im a 16v guy (256mm discs) but in my idle moments I have looked up ETKA to answer your question. There is a different backplate listed for the ABV, PG variants with 280mm discs. Left: 3A0 615 311 Right: 3A0 615 312 So if you believe ETKA then you do need to change your front backplates to fit 280mm discs. I recently bought a rear backplate from VW-they are larger than the front-it was about £15.

If you remove the fusebox cover you will find the list of fuses written on the underside: fuse 4 (starting nearest car centre) brake servo, rear wiper and ABS. Mine is 1994 2l 16v and I'm sitting with the cover in my hand!!

If you get 2 bolts with an angle grinder, this may allow the cat to be lowered a little giving more room to attack the third bolt. You may be able to saw it or even shear it with 2 ring spanners/sockets. The problem is I only have hands on knowledge of the 9A engine not the V6. According to ETKA for V6: Seal is 1HO 253 115C if you need it? Bolts: 3 off N0102478 M8x35mm, nuts: 3 off N0221464, but they dont need to be VW! There are lots of V6 owners on the forum-maybe someone else can add something.

You dont say which model you have. On my 2l 16v 9A engine I have 3 loose bolts attaching cat to downpipe. I had my cat off 2 weeks ago to replace the Lambda sensor so I know this for certain. Just had a quick look on ETKA and I believe its also the case for other models. The 9A has a metal ring, the others a seal, but all have 3 off M8 bolts/nuts.

Lemforder or Lemfoerder (theres an umlaut over the o) are the best for wishbones, topmounts, bump stops, rubber bushes etc but not as available as Febi which are cheaper but not as good, though regarded as OE. Carparts4less (Eurocarparts) or Germanautopartsdirect are my sources for Febi parts. I recently sourced Lemforder rear subframe bushes for my BMW but couldnt find any for the Corrado rear beam and therefore used Febi. Many use Febi engine/gearbox mounts as the only acceptable standard ones other than VW parts (though of course others fit upgraded mounts).

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CORRADO-PASSENGER-WING-n-s-/180942166730?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3ACorrado&hash=item2a20fe5aca#ht_500wt_1202 Its not mine: just thought it might be a possibility for you!

Re temp sensors. I have just been through this with my 9A engine. Sensor 5 above is only for the gauge. Sensor 4 thermo time is not fitted on a 9A. Sensor 3 gives the ECU its temp info-this is part no 026 906 161: you can get it from vwheritage for £14-90 inc vat and postage (Its a Meyle quality part- the original was Bosch 0 280 130 040 which is not easy to find). However for what its worth I dont think this is your problem.

Sorry I cant help with possible misfiring issues-intermittent problems are always so frustrating to solve-and it may be a fuel problem since you say its more likely when cold. As far as the ref sensor is concerned I second Jims statement that the car will run whether it functions or not so thats unlikely to be your problem. I had my car several months before I found and then connected this sensor. The car has 2 knock sensors so thats not the function of the ignition sensor. It tells the ECU when ignition has occurred on cylinder 4. The ecu controls when the spark occurs in terms of advance/retard (largely down to the Hall sender in the distributor) and how much fuel to put in dependent on speed, load and temp. I think the ignition ref sensor is there to confirm to the ecu that the appropriate advance/retard has taken place-its a feedback loop for the ecu. I am no auto electrical expert so someone out there may say Im wrong!

I have a new and unused Jetex back box with hook hangers suitable for 16v or G60.

Ive recently replaced the Lambda sensor on my car 94 2l 16v 9A engine. The correct Bosch part as already given on this thread is 0 258 003 165. Its sold by http://www.carparts4less.co.uk as their part no 710441475 @ £54.66 with free delivery. For those thinking about undertaking the task I should add it was impossible to remove the old sensor in situ. I tried releasing the cat at the front end for better access to no avail. I ended up removing the cat from the car and used heat to try to free the sensor. After cutting the old sensor in half a socket and long ratchet were used to finally free it. Refitting was straightforward with new bolts/nuts at the fore end and a clamp at the rear.

Update: there is no clip but the rubber bush in the pedal arm should hold the cable hook. Bush part no 431 721 559 not available at present (3 weeks from VW Heritage) but costs about £10. There's a guy selling them on Ebay £2.50 plus postage 69p so thats where Ive gone. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-ACCELERATOR-PEDAL-BUSH-RUBBER-VW-GOLF-VW-T4-TRANSPORTER-ETC-NEW-/120881107123?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c251350b3

My recent idling problems were caused by a very wet air filter! Its rained none stop here this summer and at times the wind has been so strong the rains been horizontal. It took a few days to find but in the meantime a new temp sensor and Bosch Lambda sensor have done wonders for my fuel consumption. The car now idles fine though I suspect I may still have my long time intermittent running issue. I cleared the fault codes and they have not reappeared. EDIT: I was thrown off scent somewhat by mistakenly believing this car had a thermo time switch. This came about by ref to Haynes Golf 2 and Passat manuals, previous VW cars Ive owned and Vagcat which is clearly wrong. My car 1994 with 2l 16v 9A engine has 2 temp sensors, one is for the temp gauge and the other vw 026 906 161, (Bosch 0 280 130 040), is the one which signals the ECU. This is the important one because it is used by the ECU for control on startup and whilst the car is running and will affect the fueling of the engine appropriately.

Cables free to slide , no binding, just looks as though the rubber bush in the pedal arm isnt capable of retaining the hook anymore!! Update: there is no clip but the rubber bush in the pedal arm should hold the cable hook. Bush part no 431 721 559 not available at present (3 weeks from VW Heritage) but costs about £10. Thats for the bush not a new cable, 'lol' is what I think you youngsters say on such occasions.

Simple question: 2l 16v should the hooked end of the cable at the pedal be held in place by a clip? Theres no clip on mine and the pedal and cable parted company this morning. It could have been dangerous, fortunately I was only going slow and I was less than a mile from home. If theres a clip has anyone got one cos Im sure theyll be obsolete-failing that a photo-otherwise I think Ill be bodging something.

Here is the latest update on my problem! I changed the distributor for a used unit ( in case the hall sender was the problem) and added a new cap and rotor. I changed the temp sensor which on a 9A with KE injection only goes to the gauge I believe. I think the ECU only gets info from the thermo time switch which I havent changed. I should add Ive cleaned the throttle body and checked engine bay earths. The result was the car started and ran but hunted around 1000rpm. I went for a spin and noted the temp gauge now shows the engine warms in a short time and operates a little hotter than previously indicated, now 95 ( proving the original was faulty as it used to take half an hour before the gauge showed 90) Today I fitted a genuine Bosch Lambda sensor ( I had to remove the cat to extract the old one). The car still hunted around 1000rpm on first start. Went for a spin and saw that my indicated fuel consumption has improved-quickly got to 30 rather than slowly climbing to 26/28. Noted that with a warm engine tickover is now steady but at 1500. (The factory plugs are still in place so it should be less than 1000) Checked engine fault codes and got 00522 (G62 temp sensor), 00533 (idle air control regulation) and 01257 (Idle air control valve N71). I then removed and cleaned the ISV for the second time, verified it responds when voltage applied, and inspected for leaks for the umpteenth time. On refitting the ISV no improvement. I dont understand why none of these codes came up previously. So is the problem the thermotime switch, the ISV or the ecu which controls the ISV based on the info from the thermo time switch or none of these? (EDIT the car has a temp sensor vw 026 906 161 for the ECU and no thermo time switch). Ive reread lots of similar posts on the forum and these symptoms have many causes (including issues with fuel supply/metering head) Finally lets not forget the original problem only a few days ago: an intermittent issue of starting but failing to rev up which degenerated into not even ticking over, but again once overcome, car drove OK. Comments appreciated.

I bought one recently from KUR2Y. I pmed him to say I was impressed with the build and improvement to the lights. However I too thought there was no suitable mounting location (2L 16V). I suggested that he canvass a few folks for a suitable location for the relays and then modify his looms to suit. He seemed happy to do this. So whats the solution?

Thanks for the feedback-Ill keep you posted. Currently waiting for a few bits to arrive ( GSF Beru cap and rotor). Will eliminate HT ignition ct problems first. My Lambda is an aftermarket bodge so has been on my list of parts to replace anyway, so will replace now with a proper Bosch unit. I've replaced the temp sender since the car has always appeared to warm up slowly despite a new thermostat-but am unclear whether this is just for the gauge or also sends a signal to the ECU. My own thoughts are around the cold start injector/thermo time switch/ISV. (EDIT as above this engine has no thermotime switch) I have to say I am much happier with mechanical issues. The key point is that this fault occurred 2 or 3 times over a 5 month period and now seems to have suddenly worsened.

Hi James-hope your eyebrows/lashes etc now fully regrown. I was thinking about you and those like you last week as I too was on my back getting filthy. I had been reading a post of someone else doing a mega restoration job and going looking for the onset of rust under the underseal. In my case I decided to replace my rear beam mounts in my search for the smooth ride, and to replace the brake regulator since it seemed my front brakes were doing all the stopping despite recent looking rear calipers. My cause of consternation and cussing were the rear brake pipes-everyone of which was impossible to remove. I ended up replacing 4 solid pipes and 4 hoses. And the outcome? The ride is certainly improved-I think the bushes had lost all their resilience- and though the pedal is a little soft still, the rear discs are cleaning up now. However I didnt do any undersealing while I was there, I didnt sandblast/powdercoat the rear beam (it got a quick cleanup and a couple of coats of paint), I dont have the patience or devotion that you show. My joy at achieving was short lived. The car has started playing up-it runs rough on start up and doesnt want to rev. So Im playing around with the ISV, CSI, the thermo time switch, the throttle potentiometer etc etc . One day I hope to start enjoying Corrado ownership! Keep up the good work. Hope Oscar is well-and dont forget Summer hols are for you to be with the wife and Oscar not the corrados!!!!!

I dont have vagcom but I have a U281 tester-it came up with 00587 mixture control adjustment but thats a result of not running correctly today rather than identifying what caused the problem-it came up with nothing after the previous little hiccups. (It identified the correct problem when the speedo was disconnected and when the polo was missing from the ignition lead). By temp sensors do you mean the thermotimeswitch and other sensor below the distributor? Oil temp sensor and rad sensor as shown by MFA are normal 108, 90 respectively. (EDIT the 2l 16v 9A doesnt have a thermotime switch-it has a temp sensor vw 026 906 161 bosch 0 280 130 040 for the ECU input) How do I check the lamda-the wires appear to be secure and I broke and remade the connection at the plug below the brake m/c. Cant account for the sudden onset of problems today. Ive spent the last few days replacing my rear beam bushes/ brake reg and rear brake pipes and not been near the engine bay!!!

I bought my car 5 months ago (94 16v with 9A engine). On 3 or 4 occasions it has started but would only tick over and not rev up. After a few minutes it would decide to go and thereafter there were no problems-otherwise it has always started first time and ticked over and run well. Today it took a turn for the worse. It starts but runs very rough and stalls-it will not tick over and it will not rev. I did get it to go this morning, and again this afternoon eventually after many failed attempts. Once it decides to go theres no problem-it doesnt stall at junctions etc. But the general behavior is now not to tick over or rev then suddenly to behave well. Ive had a look in the distributor/leads. Ive removed and checked the inlet tract/ vac pipes for leaks, checked the output of the throttle potentiometer but found nothing. The ISV has never buzzed during my ownership but checks out at 8.5 ohms and there is power to it. When the ISV is disconnected the car wont start so it has always been doing something. If I disconnect the cold start injector the car wont start. If I get the car started then disconnect the cold start injector it runs OK. Ive read lots here about similar problems, and the list of possibles is so long. Its the old story- is it ignition or fuel- all I can say is that an extremely rare intermittent problem has decided to become worse. Im dont fancy replacing every part in sight until I get lucky-can we come up with a sensible regime of testing to identify the problem.

Hi Lukasz, Car looks good especially the leather seats and the paintwork. You have the same Westwood wheels as I have, though mine came from an 8 valver-the car had cheap 17" wheels when I bought it. I've had an L reg 16v for a few months and also been sorting lots of mechanical issues. I still have the rear axle bushes to replace, and though my ABS says its OK , I dont believe it operates. At the moment the bonnet is getting sprayed-tried to do it myself but my spraying kit not up to it and it ended up looking like a zebra. Its now in the hands of a pro. Im guessing you are from Latvia or Poland....elsewhere to the East..... ???? You mention the weather-well I was at Uni in Leeds 40yrs ago (Mech Eng), but am now in the Lakes and can say its always much wetter here than in Leeds! Glad you are enjoying your Corrado, I've not quite got to the point where I like mine, I can see the potential is there, but not yet happy with the ride quality.

Right idea but wrong part for your car. I think you should be 191 919 521D. If you search for this on the site you indicated they have these from 3 different manufacturers. May be available elsewhere if you try Google. Always look at Vagcat-the parts catalogue (Google it) for info-you have to register before you can use the parts catalogue, but its a good starting point for info and part nos. Also, Ive found the search facility on the forum throws up lots of irrelevant stuff. If you Google the issue, Google will take you to better more relevant info on the forum. (eg Google 'Corrado ISV' and Google takes you to appropriate threads on the forum.

This is the info I was given on this forum earlier this year (as I said it acts as 2 switches): on a 2.0 16v the throttle body should contain a 3pin connector. Pin 2 being the earth. and 1&3 are Closed and Wide open switch feeds respectively. If you wish to check if yours is working all you need is a simple ammeter and to carry out the following tests pin condition resistance 1&2 Throttle closed Zero 1&2 Throttle Slightly open Infinity 2&3 Throttle closed Infinity 2&3 Throttle fully open zero If youre getting anything else you have a faulty switch,