A1 VR6

There's no substitute for elbow grease, I have a spare tin that you can have :lol:2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfMagnecor1.jpg[/attachment:3uk23y7x]Magnecor2.jpg[/attachment:3uk23y7x]

Looks a nice car - welcome to VR ownership, Aqua Blue looks stunning in the sunlight :)

He's probably on the Zonda forum as we speak John saying a corrado followed me out of London today :lol:

Very nice Michael - take it green's one of your fave colours :lol:

I will if you will :lol:

Well pleased, had the car Mot'd yesterday and it passed for a 10th consecutive time. Only thing commented on was slight play in the os/r wheel bearing so I'll nip that up a bit and sorted :D I also decided to have a look at the emissions print from the first time I got one to this latest one and there is literally no variance, the car is always tested at the same garage so that looks pretty healthy too :D He also said all the bushes are in remarkably good condition as I commented that they must be due for changing soon and he's amazed that the original exhaust is still in such good condition - that is a pain as I want to get a Magnex stainless but thought I'd wait for the original to give up and it's showing no signs of doing so :(

Kip's right, you need a 10 bar sender for the Corrado guage pod but it also needs to be dual pole. You retain the standard temp sender. These people sell them but sorry can't remember the thread size. http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/INSTR ... index.html As an alternative you could buy the original Audi sender that went with the guages and use a t-piece. The oil pressure sender appears to be 5 bar not 10, part number 85-D-250 000 and that has an M10x1 thread.

Hello Alex, welcome back :cheers: - but no engine to swap I'm afraid :(

Always a relief when it passes Fay :) Not being smug but having mine done next week and hoping it passes for 10th consecutive time - call it an obsession :lol:

They're doing Dodo Juice sample packs at the moment, and you can buy a pack of 4 hard waxes or 4 soft. Think I might buy the hard wax pack to try it. http://www.theultimatefinish.co.uk/Stor ... ductId=532 Would I have to remove the Purple Haze with cleanser before starting again with the hard wax?

Great stuff Shaun, I just used the clay bar all over first then the purple haze. What's the advantage of the blue velvet hard wax in between?

Blow torch is good, also give them a good soak overnight with plus gas but give them a whack with a hammer first to break the seal. You need a splined socket bit rather than allen bit (can just round off the inside of the bolt head) and a breaker bar. I used a 10mm bit which is slightly oversize and hammered that in. It can be a bit scary when the breaker bar is starting to bend then bang and they come undone. Also a good idea sometimes to try and tighten them a bit more first. Good luck :)

Was my daily until about 6-7 years ago and I was on a car allowance but increasing business travel forced me to buy a company car. Couldn't part with it so it's now Sorn'd between October - April and has 6 months summer use only so doesn't even qualify for the poll I guess April is approaching fast though so MOT and service next week, off Sorn and back on the road - can hardly wait :)

So you managed to get another VR Dave :) Post up some pics when you get the 301's on.

Great work Dave - looks like new :clap:

Are you sure you need to rebuild them Stan? Reason I ask is that having owned a MK4 in the family for 9 years I've had to strip the rear brakes 4 or 5 times because they've seized up. Nothing wrong with the seals or pistons, it's just the pads that seem to stick in the carrier and all they need is removing, all the contact points cleaned and regreased and that does the trick. This advice was given to me by a VAG mechanic friend and he was absolutely right. Worth a try first I think :)

They can be attached to the back of the door cards with double sided sticky pads if you put them in the correct position. That's where my MB Quart ones are :)

Got the cover from Niko in Finland who used to post on here - think he only had 10 made in Germany. It's stainless steel and I sand blasted the lettering on after getting some transfers made up. If you paint the cover just make sure you degrease and prime properly. Apart from what you've mentioned I think you only have to disconnect the ISV but it is about 5-6 years since I did it. Only thing I would say is no matter how much you polish there will be slight pitting if you look closely as it's a casting - well worth the effort though :)

The shape of the manifold means you can easily do most of the hard work with a standard flat sander. Use a rough grade paper to start then just work down using finer grades of paper then eventually hand polishing with wet and dry. Very difficult though unless you remove the manifold from the car. You can buy allen keys with a hexagonal socket and a ball on the other end which allows bolts to be undone with these inserted at an angle - very useful on the VR manifold given where they're sited. I would also recommend a new gasket for the manifold and throttle body and manifold bolts as the last thing you want is unregulated air leaking in - these aren't expensive. The other thing you need is a torque wrench - the manifold bolts need to be set at 16 ft/lbs IIRC. Hope that helps :)

Why don't you try this :) http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewto ... 93&start=0 If you put a small sub box in with the angle of the rear about the same as the angle on the rear seat and then a panel in front of it then you can fix your amps to the back of the panel then access them with the rear seat backs down. I've also made up side panels and not had to fix the panels to anything. You lose hardly any space in the boot this way.

As I said Paul check here :) http://www.the-corrado.net/wiki/index.p ... ting_guide

Joking aside, you're absolutely right Jim :(

I say break - just makes the remaining ones potentially worth more :lol:

Nice one Michael, looking great as ever 8) . I've got the MOT end of next month then back on the road 1st April - can hardly wait :)

First try holding down the disarm button for 15 - 20 secs to resync the remote to the alarm. If that doesn't work disconnect the battery for about 15 mins then try again. Worked for me - the original vw alarm can get screwed up if the battery goes absolutely flat.