DEL VR6

Hi Zippy. Good thread revival! The car has not moved since then and the misfiring has not been cured. I tried a new coilpack, and it was the same. I then bought a new set of leads, and whilst trying to take the old ones out - one "snapped". By that i mean the wire came out but the rest of the top of the cable is still stuck on the plug (probably jammed on) and right down the bottom of a deep hole, i cant get to it to get the thing off without the metal tool. And that's where it's stopped. Because i have not needed the car, it's just been sat there. I have finally found a local mechanic who is willing to spend a few hours tinkering about trying to sort the whole thing out for me. It's going to him this or next week and we'll see. He reckons it's the plugs. I'll keep you updated!

havent read the whole thread, but i'll share a quote from my well trusted tyre fitter when i asked him about Fulruns... "I wouldn't wipe my arse with them. In fact, I wouldnt even fit them to my worst enemies car, they are THAT bad"

Can anyone help with this? I put the old coilpack back on and it's worse. Like proper SHITE! running and misfiring all over the place now. All the leads are in the correct plugs etc. Gonna try the new coilpack with new plug leads tonight when i get home from work. Can only replace the plugs next after that. Can anyone tell me how to clean the ISV and MAF and Throttle body please and where they are loacated?

Sounds like a good idea. Where are they? And how do i go about it please? (I sound so dumb on here! sorry, i'm more used to taking air cooled engines to pieces!)

ttt. thread nature has changed. I need help with this misfiring. It's horrible. If it's not electrical, and it's only related to acceletarion / throttle "open-ness"... it's got to be air related, surely?

Was going to buy it from Eurocar Parts or GSF. GSF say they don't have the leads available. It does, thank you. On a seperate note, at £4 + VAT Each for Bosch Plugs, am tempted to change them at the same time. They must have covered 10k easy if not more, makes sense no? How tight do these have to be torqued up?

edit 2: I've never taken the cover thing off. Have seen Stealth mechanics whip it off in about 10 seconds flat, so am assuning it's just these that need to be undone? And that it's sort of clipped on too?

Edit: Looks like a case of (battery off first)... taking the cover thing off that the leads slot into followed by 4 allen key bolts being removed. Then obviously mark which lead goes where and unlpug them all, and there looks to be a connector on the side. Anything else I need to take note of?

EDIT: You can ignore the bit below because: I have changed the coilpack for a brand new item from BERU and there is absolutely no change and it still misfires the way it was before. I have not changed the plugs or leads. The misfire is only on idle OR when you put a high load of the engine i.e. low speed in a high gear or just feathering the throttle in a higher gear with low speed. When you are accelerating normally or hard, and going through the gears, the car is completely normal and has all its engine power and all 6 cylinders are firing. :help: Morning people. As the title asks really. I'm trying to cure my misfire on the VR. Spoke to a few off you on here in person @ Tatton Park and this seems like the thing to try first seeing we don't think it's plugs or leads at this stage. So, can anyone tell me how to change the coil pack with a bit of a step by step guide so that i do it without breaking anything and not undoing anything i dont need to. As always, thanks in advance.

^^ WHS! ^^

Good stuff on here Jim. I look forward to seeing you and the car at Stanford Hall. Not long to go now!

Not sure yet, will let you know nearer the time.

That's sad news. Glad to hear that you are ok. Cars are replacable. Good luck with getting things sorted.

Jim, congratulations mate :clap: . I know how much you have always wanted a VR6. I know nothing about the one you are buying, but from knowing how patient you have been that it will be a good one. Hope to see you and it sometime soon, hopefully Stanford Hall in a months time? Enjoy tomorow! I remember that feeling of going to pick up my first VR6 so well, one i will always remember with happy memories.

I think there is a small indy VW specialist here is Leicester. I am assuming he will have a VAG-COM in his workshop, by plugging it in, will that tell what the cause of the problem is?

Not sure if it is misfiring or if it's the cam position sensor or the air mass sensor? Symptoms are: Car sounds very very much like it's misfiring on idle and sounds more like a 4 cylinder ricer, no really it does :( . Also can smell pure fuel from the fumes in this scenario. When you rev it a little harder, it sounds and feels normal. when it is being driven, and you put your foot down hard, there is defo no los of power, no "limp mode" feel to the engine whatsoever. Car feels 100% normal - but only if you are flooring it in the right gears. As you change up at lower speeds, it feels like it wants to konk out... And to follow.... if you are sort of driving as normal and kind of "feathering" the throttle, the engine stars major jerking as though not all the cylinders are firing. Anyone got any ideas what's wrong with the beast? All help as always, most appreciated. Thanks.

i saw your last car @ stealth at one of the RR days, it was pretty cool stuff. I bet this is going to be awesome too. I dont know how you have the patience to do it, but i rate you for doing it mate. Nice to see the pics too, to stop and stare in amazement.

i saw this GORGEOUS corrado in Leicester parked up on London Road near to Devonshire Place a few weekends ago, was a Sunday. Very tasty, with red calipers / poilshed Audi alloys. Was it you?

V cool guide. Mine are all on one key, but need to do the same with my Karmann Ghia. I wonder if it''ll be as easy finding the spare tumblers

So the guy at Parkers is either talking **** or confusing the wire with an abs sensor? Never heard of Parkers mate? if they have the indicators then you can just chop them off but you will probably pay more for them... best to get them from somewhere who has the correct data for the car tbh... As you're mate says it's maybe best to do them both or at least buy a pair - makes sense as he will have to re-do the tracking. I would buy both track rod ends too if they are original, bound to be passed there best at over 100k miles and the reason I said to get one anyway is the boots often split when you take them off and you also need to use a new nut everytime, if he uses the proper Sykes tool he should be ok but if it's coming off the car you might as well stick a new one back on. As always with this sort of stuff it's a case of how far do you go with it... for instance you could change both track rods for another £50 or so (new ones come with the ends) but then you could also rebuild the whole front end for £500ish... Thanks for the answer. Just the sort of reply i was hoping for. Have just phoned GSF car parts to ask about the same parts. They only have the track rod ends, at a price of £8.90 each +VAT For that kind of price, i think it IS well worth doing them at the same time as long the new parts are of equal quality to the originals. Surely a part like this is fairly standard right, regardless of whether it comes from VAG or GSF? ps, Parkers are a motor factors based in midlands. The guy did give me two prices. One for "with wire" and one without and as you said, the without wire pads were cheaper.

So the guy at Parkers is either talking shite or confusing the wire with an abs sensor?

i have a seperate question to do with the front brake pads and a "wire".... The pads dont have anything to do with the ABS sensors do they? Reason i ask is that the guy at Parkers asked if my pads have a wire on them that is connected to the dash and related to the warning light. I assume he meant incase the dashboard has a light / warning indicator to say that the pads are low, as opposed to anything to do with the ABS warning light?

Supercharged, hope you dont mind me asking, can you elabotrate / educate me about why you say about the track rod end? Do they get worn / knackered with age too? Reason i ask is cos my mate who is going to do it for me reckons it's not worth changing it. (them) Also, he said to do both gaitors rather than just the one on the basis that if one has gone, the other might be near to going and with car having done 114'000 miles now, prob best to do both for peace of mind etc. I just looked back at the MOT fail sheet. The pads were not a fail, just an advisory but verbally, he did say he strongly advises it while the wheels are off etc

Nice one Jimbo... you make it sound so easy! At no point have you mentioned cutting your knuckles / getting pissed off with jammed / tight bolts etc. anyway, a few questions.... Is this two bolts around the back of the caliper? (Guessing 13 or 15mm jobies?) Is this the stage where there are like tensioned and shaped thickish wire steel clips which clips the pads into place? Do i have to compress the caliper back in during / after the pads are installed? Is that mainly cos the current ones will be all rusty and old / worn? or just cos they will be too old / knackered to go back in?

thanks for the quick reply Supercharged. Rang the dealers and have been told: Gaitor £18.94 Track rod end £18.73 Clips: Inside (larger one): £2.63, outer £1.54 all plus vat. Do those prices aound about right? PS, for someone that does a lot of the work myself on my cars, i know its a daft thing to ask but i have never done brake pads myself before on any of my cars. What does it entail to swap the front pads? Take it its just clips and bolts, no?