Dec

The sender for the oil temp is a single pin sender at the back of the head on the passenger side. It's right at the top, near the rocker cover. so could well have been left unplugged when you had the cams changed! :wink:

Exhausts in!! Needed to remove the rear subframe to get in in though! :mad2: And the exhaust section needed to be trimmed slightly to fit into the standard exhaust! Going to re-wrap the turbo manifold tonight and get the last few bits bolted on tomorrow.

Nice work! Good to see it (almost) came apart relatively easily! I snapped a scissors type ball joint separator trying to get the tie-rd end out of the hub once! Dunno how long it had been in there but it definitely didn't want to budge! :shock: :shock: That weld plate looks a bit ratty alright... :pale: I'd get a wire brush, some rust killer and some underbody sealant at it asap!

Hello! :wave: I think a couple of people on here have already been eying up the US spec front bumper from your car, after they saw it on Ed38! :lol: As for the value of the car itself.....No history, LHD, poor bodywork, obviously no T&T, and unknown charger history (?) would all count against it. I'd say £750 - £1k. It would definitely be worth more as parts though; as it has some nice goodies! :eek: :cry:

Welcome to the forum! Car looks very tidy! 8) Unusual to see Sebring alloys on a late rado!

Cheers guys! :D Will hopefully be bolting it all back onto the car over the weekend. It does look like an interesting piece of modern art sitting in the corner of the living room at the moment though! :lol:

Looks like the cable that goes to the fan overrun switch on the O/S front of the rocker cover. Try grounding the wire somewhere and see if the rad fan comes on. :wink:

Give all the nuts a good soaking in Plusgas / WD40 overnight to make it a bit easer to remove them tomorrow. As some of them can be a right bugger to get out, especially the retaining nut + bolt on the balljoint.

lol...basically does the same thing as K-star but made by a different company. Milford Microsystems made the K-star iirc (but deny all knowledge of it now :scratch: )

Most tend to be happy enough running on it. But for those that weren't, when Super leaded was no longer available, the choice was to 'de-tune' the engine by getting the timing adjusted, or to go for the K-star or VSAM routes. :wink:

It's for the KR, afaik the 9a's were happy enough running on unleaded as standard so didn't need it.

It's a piggyback 'ecu' for the k-jet system. Depending on which K-star model you have it can be custom mapped to control ignition timing and fueling. It was initially developed to allow k-jet cars to run properly on lower octane unleaded petrol, when leaded petrol became unavailable. Do a forum search and you'll get a bit of info on it. Realistically it's pretty old stuff now and the manufacturers couldn't even give me any info on it when I contacted them! So, info and support on it will be zero! :?

Skived off a conference I was supposed to be attending this afternoon to go and FINALLY pick up this bit of shiny pipe that has cost me SO much time and money! I fabricated all the pipework myself, and left it into the welders to actually get put together. Between one thing an another, it's been in and out of there for the last few weeks (my last mod to it was the external wg pipe linking to the main downpipe) But it's finally back and looking pretty good! Everything all lines up perfectly and all the welds are pretty nice and have been polished out :cheers: Just need to get the grinder out and trim a small bit off the straight end of the pipe, as I purposely made that slightly too long.

KR head has three of the single pin (#5) senders, instead of the two pin (#3) plug in that photo. I cant remember offhand which one of the three is for the temp gauge, but they are all identical, so temporarily swaping the plugs around to check for a reading on the gauge should work!

hmmmm.......I always thought that both horns (high/low tone) were behind the front grille! That's the only place I've ever seen them, but I have only owned early spec rados! :?

Yup, I've had my name down for tickets for the last 3yrs, never got anywhere! :(

8) 8) :dorky: :tongue:

Ah yeah, I remember that thread! The photos of the two estates for sale were on another forum too! I'll see if I can find them, as imho they looked quite cool!

They are the rubber bushings where the rear beam/axle bolts onto the two brackets on the chassis. If you look under the car, just infront of the rear wheel you can see the side of the bracket with a large M12 nut + bolt that goes through the centre of the bushings. They aren't too expensive to buy themselves. But are an absolute nightmare to remove the old bushings from the beam, and to press the new ones in. There's a special VW tool for doing the job, but it is quite expensive! You're looking at a few hours labour in a garage + parts to get the job done, as the whole rear beam really needs to be removed. I've heard it costs about £250-£300, but I'm sure someone can confirm for definite.

Not on all of them! The early 2.0L's came with the early spec interior. :wink:

Not really a whole lot in it between the two, 2.0l pulls slightly better from low down, while the 1.8L is more 'rev happy' The clincher for me would be in reliability though! The 1.8L fueling system is more basic and doesn't come up with nearly as many random idling and cold running problems! And if it ever does, 99% of the time it's just a vac leak through a loose pipe, or an ISV that needs cleaning. Couple that with troublesome abs sensors on the 2.0L and I know which one of the two I'd go for!

Got to fly some full on aerobatics in a Bulldog (old Raf trainer), with a retired Raf test pilot. As part of my Msc in aerospace dynamics of all things! Handy going to a Uni with their own airfield, planes and pilots! :shock: :D It was some rush! 8) 8)

Aye, that's definitely worth a go! It's very difficult to get those windows lined up correctly as they don't have the leveling arms taht the proper window mechs have to keep the window from going off line! :?

Ahh, that's one of the dealer fit elec window mechs that were fitted to some very early rados! The fat pipe you have there is actually for the motor cable to 'retract' into when the window is lowered! (so should be left lying along the bottom of the door) The wiring is like that on the two other models I've seen, so it's not a bodge by the owners, it's a 'bodge' by the vw dealers themselves. Just make sure all the connections are well insulated, as there isn't much that can be done to tidy it up a whole lot. :roll: No matter how hard we tried to grease the mechs etc on one of those kits, there was no way the motor was going to move the window any faster. The motors all have VW part numbers, but the parts were discontinued when we asked about them. I stripped the kit out my my rado and replaced it with a standard window mech form a slightly later car. Involves taking the mechs out of both doors. Swapping the entire window + central locking loom(s), all the switches are also different, and the proper window control module needs to be fitted behind the rear doorcard. This also tidies up the fusebox, as those dealer window kits wire the relay directly into the fusebox! :wink: