Dec

Yeah the MSII processor seems to give a lot of benefits alright! simple plug in upgrade too! Apparently the Megaview will only show AFR when used with MSII aswell! I got my Megaview II kit for $135 (£65) from diyautotune, while ordering the lambda!

Yeah the Megaview will show the AFR when used with a MSII apparently! I wouldn't be confident enough in my welding 'skills' to weld the exhasut myself. So I'll cut everything to shape myself and then have to resort to finding someone to weld it together for me!

Ahh...cool cheers!! 8) 8) Was actually looking at pics of Vr6 engine bays to try and figure out if the TB was any further away than on the 16v's! But couldn't really figure it out from photos alone! :lol: :lol:

Went for the Innovate LC-1 wideband in the end. Ordered it from the US, as the exchange rate makes things nice and cheap there at the moment! Was Very tempted to splash out on this! LCDash Digital Touchscreen dash...it's 8) 8) 8) Left to do: 1) Stick together the last few silicone joins on the pipe work, once they arrive in the post. 2) Finish off 'modifying' the sump! The oil drain flange is in it...but it is refusing to go back on the car with the new windage tray fitted :? 3) Mock up the downpipe with the ss pipe I've ordered, and get it welded together 4) Drill and tap the inlet manifold for vacuum lines and brake servo pipe etc 5) Refit new busings, disks, pads, brake lines, bearings etc, to the powder coated rear beam I bough a while back and get it fitted 6) Fit the Megaview kit into the dash. Not exactly crucial though! No more than a few days work (fingers crossed), once all the parts show up! 8)

'supercharger clicky' One of these?.....wouldn't waste your money on it tbh!

I've fitted a short runner modified S2 manifold to my 16v. The throttle-body is now towards the front of the enginebay, and not the back where it usually sits. So! The accelerator cable is now a couple of cm too short to really work properly with the throttle-body. Is there any standard accelerator cable that can fit that's a bit longer than the standard 16v cable? I've been looking about on Vagcat etc, but it's pretty difficult to try and find out how long each cable is :?

Not all that much progress I'm afraid :( Spent all my spare time stripping that Black valver I bought, so I have 'emergency' spare parts if anything goes wrong with this one down the line! Everything else I need to finish (stainless steel for downpipe, pile of silicone bits, wideband O2, Megaview II etc) is currently in the post to me now! Bit the bullet and stuck the last £500 of parts on the Visa card! It's weird, I was actually relieved when I "only" had £500, left to spend on the major parts! Remind me NEVER to add up how much all this work cost :shock: :lol:

Welcome to the forum! 8) Need to be more specific about which type of 'original alloys'! Early /late 16v's came with different standard alloys, as did G60's and Vr6's etc!

the last £500 worth of bits are going to be ordered come payday!...only two weeks to wait and then I'm going to really get stuck in and get it finished off!

I'd still 100% recommend the Megasquirt relay board to simplify the wiring!......really makes everything nice and simple! just plug the wire from each sensor into the labelked port in the replay board!.....saves making making a cock-up and frying the MS board too! 8)

Definitely an oil pressure warning buzzer! Check the wiring to the two senders on-top of the oil filter housing if the oil level is ok! May be better off replacing the two senders, as they are only a few quid.

Used one of these before and I cant fault them at all! 8)

I had a late bonnet on an early valver and it didn't match up with the early wings very well. It was slightly higher than the wings along either edge!

Sure you don't have a late spec wing with an early spec bonnet or v-v?

I have a Toad immob on mine too. Same deal with a relay clicking around the fusebox somewhere too, haven't really checked which relay it is though, but it's deffo not the same replay as the hazard lights. The main control unit on mine is stuck in behind the cubbyhole in the centre console.

I have the passenger side ducting off an early spec car going spare, let me know if you need it. :wink:

Nice work! That front panel should be repairable, as most of it isn't structural anyway! Mine looked something similar. I just used a wire brush + sandpaper to strip it all back to bare metal. Gave it a few coats of rust proofing, and then three coats of black hammerite. One question though!......Is that a coolant pipe that runs through the front panel? I don't have one there on my early valver, so was just curious! :lol:

I reckon it's not actually the top mount you are spinning around by hand, but the plate that is on-top of it! The mounts are held in by the weight of the car, so whether they are fupped or not, you wouldn't be able to rotate them. If you pull off the black plastic cap that covers the top-mounts / "plate" you should see a recessed bolt. I reckon this must be loose! It's not a big problem, the top-"plates" are there to stop the suspension assembly + top-mounts from falling when you jack the front of the car up off the ground. So, unless you happen to get airborne, shouldn't really affect things! You'll need an Allen key and a deep necked spanner to tighten the nut up again!

Yeah, you can pick up a MK2 Rocco for peanuts! Great little cars, and are nice and basic, so you can fix anything that goes wrong cheaply and easily yourself! 8)

Sounds like a great idea! My main problem with Parcelforce etc is that I basically have to take a day out of the office to sit at home for hours on end waiting for them to show up! would you be able to offer a bit more accurate of a pick-up or delivery time? Or just give a call/text to let people know you are on your way or nearly there? Also with the way you would arrange to collect/deliver things, I guess it would take a few days longer than a standard courier to deliver? (not that, that's usually a problem at all!)

Wow!!....nice work!That's a pretty detailed photo diary of the work too! :lol: don't know how you manage to find anything in that garage though! :lol:

IMHO, having owned rados with both early and late spec bonnets/wings, the early bonnet is much better looking than the late! Late one makes the front look a bit frumpy and fat, so if I were you I'd stick with the early stuff! *expecting a flaming now. :lol:

"mettallic tinking" could easily just be the exhaust heat shield on the manifold! Tend to disintegrate after a while and vibrate away against the manifold causing a ratting noise!

They aren't actually BBS wheels. They were a limited edition wheel called A-rays from a company called P-A racing. I re-badged them with vw badges though. Got them as they clear the Brembos and are reasonably light.

Looks similar alright! Found a pic of mine from a while back Mine has two take-offs for the clocks and ECU on the manifold side of the valve. Wonder how much of a benefit it is to move it down closer to the manifold itself?