colinstubbs

Book speed is 130mph for 16v (1.8 anyhow) and most speedos under-read by about 5mph so an indicated 125mph isn't bad! Try and borrow a GPS or GPS equiped bit of kit and double check your speedo. Mine is 4-5mph under

You gave up then? I overkilled the boot a bit with 2 layers of Damplifier up the sides and 3-3of coats of Spectrum with about 4-5 coats on the floor over the old Dynamat that was on there. It really improved the sub response, I was worried it might be pointless :lol: . Under the rear seats got a layer of damplifier and spectrum while the sides got a couple of damplifier and 3 coats of spectrum, also had some rock wool loft insulation kicking about so stuffed it in the void between inner and out rear quarter skins. Passenger door had a layer of damplifier and 3 coats of spectrum over old dynamat, driver's got 2 layers of damplifier and 3 spectrums and i put big multiple layers of spectrum under the front seats. Didn't bother in the footwells as they're sorted. As thre headliner's out i've damplifiered the roof a bit and i'll prob get some spectrum up there as there's some left. 40sq ft of damplifier and 40sq ft spectrum is plenty! 8) 8)

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

For info the idler pulley was superceded by the solid one because it was such a sh1te piece of design. Mine rattled for at least two years until the pump went, when it was changed. If yours was truely, truely shagged you'll be amazed how much quieter the engione sounds!

Forces boy then eh? Made me the twisted individual that I am :lol:

Cheers!!

no 'C' replicas though.

Mot pass is a good result! Hope the good luck continues! Another one not being broken always good news. 8) 8) 8)

Don't put it off for too long, I had to do mine last December in the dark and the cold, that made it even more sweary than it would have been normally :bad-words: :wink:

Just got mine swapped after two years without any cards or shelves in! What with the sound proofing I've put in it's MUCH quieter 8) :lol: :lol:

Speedo surround (black grooved bit) removed gives you access to the right-hand side, just pop out the fog and demist switches. Careful refitting, there is a bit of a cable trap to the left of the stereo aperture when you push back the headunit.

:nono: A single warning and then on 2nd offense............. ..................... a swift punch to the throat would remedy the problem in my Corrado 8) :lol:

Yeah the choc-blocks were just to check connections worked ok. After that I soldered and sleeved them with heat shrink. 8)

You'd be p155ed off if you curbed them!

The in/out and up/down is still reversed which apparently can only be fixed by re-wiring the motors in the mirrors. :gag: You can live with that! The left/right mirror selection, illumination, etc works as advertised in mine wired as below. Corrado mirror Sw. change (13) (Large).jpg[/attachment:k9rmmeml]2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfCorrado mirror Sw. change (12) (Large).jpg[/attachment:k9rmmeml]

Ta.

I like that idea!

A mate of mine needs to get his Landrover blasted underneath for rust and then undersealed. Does anyone know of a good place for this in the mid-Kent area (he's at Meopham and works in Maidstone)? Colin

But they don't do C's!!!!

The starter is not disengaging when the motor kicks into life, get another one from the scrappy

If he hasn't I have, Just swapped early for late, I cut off the old switches and soldered the new ones on so can advise on wire colours if the knowledge base doesn't help. Some of my wires were different colours to the guide! Colin

Back in '98 Stealers wanted £205 O/S and £215 N/S!!

You clearly have not been trying hard enough, seriously. ;) Pile into a corner, do something stupid like stamp on the brakes, and you'll be piling on opposite lock. I've run out of steering rack before now.. Easy to provoke. You don't even need to be going that fast which is nice :grin: Diesel allows you to spin at about 25mph on a roundabout if you're oh so lucky :shock: , 270 degrees round and missed everything thankfully :pale:

Did this a couple of days ago. You have to take off the lock then insert the rod/plastic sleeve combo in through the smaller bit of doorlock aperture, (I did this with the central locking actuator removed (remove two screws, leckie plug and the air-tube)) then simply connect up all the rods via the plastic sleeve which is REALLY REALLY fiddly and then slide the rod/plastic sleeve over the lock lever. Refit actuator and it should all work - job done!

I just did a Confused.com search putting me down for a standard vaver with no mods. best price was AA who quoted £241.51 with a £550 excess. Tesco value wanted £331.80 with a £675 excess no courtesy car and no window cover!!! What a joke? I currently pay £310 with £250 excess with Eagle Red Star