chuck

I think that looks superb with the whole angry snarling face thing going on at the front. Well done Hyundai. I take it its just a concept tho????

I have now received a new VT mount after returning the one described in the first post. This one is good. :D Idle is smooth, and there is a noticeable reduction in engine movement, expecially at low speeds - much more comfortable to drive. And it lives up to VT's claim that there is no increase in vibration! Credit must be given to VT for accepting and sorting out the problem so quickly and hassle free, and they assure me that they have never had this problem before. Much happier now, tho it would be even better with an uprated gearbox mount............. :roll:

Just answered your question about Sciroccos mate, but realised after writing loads that I had hijacked someone elses thread. Ooops Have sent you PM.

as far as I know the only valves fitted under recall were infront of the bulkhead, i.e. in the engine bay, not in the cabin. If you open the bonnet, you'll see two pipes behind the engine(gearbox side) leading into and out of the bulkhead. If these have a silver valve on the in, and a black valve on the out, then as far as I know it has had the recall carried out. If you've water in the footwell I'd suspect something else, unless you get steam when the engine is hot!!

Definately not the other mounts that are knackered. Replaced the old GSF solid rubber mount this morning (in 15mins!!), and its so much better. Still too much movement in my opinion, but just better than the VT front mount, and it sits nice and steady at idle too. Think I'll be returning it. Real pity - I thought this was going to be the dogs danglies...

One of 2 things. As Gavin says it could be an air leak. Check all the vacuum hoses for cracks (and that they are all attached!) Might also be the ISV. Check that this is buzzing when the ignition is on (should constantly buzz, starting from when the fuel pump primes). If its not, thats your problem. Give it a sharp knock with a hammer - that should free it. A more permanent fix is to take it off and soak in carb cleaner overnight. Its a VERY common problem on the valvers (has happened to mine three times in the last year), do a forum search against "ISV" and you'll see what I mean.

The others have been recently replaced. Main rear one a few weeks ago, and the rear Gearbox one a few months go. The front GSF one was less than a year old, and is still intact, so I really don't think the others are gone. Its really annoying, I thought this was going to be one of the best mods. Did an engine mount upgrade on the old rocco for £40 and it was excellent. No bouncing on acceleration or deceleration. Just done the biting point test, and the VT mount gives by about half an inch. Is this normal??

I just bought and fitted a VT front engine mount, and I have to say that I am very disappointed with it. :( There is only a very (very) small reduction in engine movement under acceleration and lifting off, and idle is terrible. Not harsh at idle, but bouncy. The solid rubber GSF mount I took off was superior, especially when you consider the £150 price tag on the VT one by comparison to the £20 GSF one!!! :x

Hey mike. I got them with the wheels from http://www.performancealloys.com They are based in Antrim and their number is 028 94 46 5151. I think they were expensive, but you can try them anyway. Advantage is that they are only half an hour up the road!

anyone?? I'm 'giving' the car to my dad soon :? :( for a few months (years??) while I'm away, and I want it to be perfect when I hand it over. Would incorrect CO adjustment as described in the first post be the cause? I don't want to go adjusting something that might need specialist equipment to get right, especially if its not likely to be the cause. Cheers

Hi, I have recently noticed this. It only happens when I floor it, and then lift off quickly. There is a strong, though brief, surge just at the point I lift off. Its more noticeable in higher gears 3+, though it will also happen in second. I have reset timing recently, though it idles and revs fine, and there seems to be plenty of power (maybe very very slightly lumpy on idle - I couldn't find a long enough allen key to adjust the fueling thing on the airbox). Not really a big problem, but I'm wondering if the engine is giving 100% the rest of the time. Anybody any ideas??

:lol: Yea it hurts - for hours! :oops:

The noise on cold starting isn't a problem by the way. Only if they are still noisy after a couple of minutes. They rely on oil pressure building up inside them to take up the slack on the cam (as opposed to the old type where you would have to shim them as they wore down). All the noise indicates is that they are becoming slower to build up pressure. As henny says its a time consuming job, so I would say its best to leave it until one dies and makes that cold starting racket all the time. Most valvers have rattly tappets for a couple of minutes when cold.

Try using Mr Muscle Plug and Drain Cleaner. This was a local mechanics tip for cleaning clogged heat exchangers. Worked a treat on mine, the amount of gunk that came out was amazing. Its a bit awkward to use as its very thick, but if you disconnect the 2 hoses and reconnect them facing upwards, it makes it easier to pour the stuff in. Pour the stuff in, and leave it for a few hours, then stick a hose on the end of the out pipe and blast the gunk out. There's a few threads on here about removing the matrix, and it looks like a dash out job (tho someone reckons it is possible without taking the dash out). Also as andy says, the recall or safety vaves do have a habit of sticking.

I've heard of valvers running up to 125 deg C oil temp without problem. Mine sits happily at 102 and rises to about 116 in heavy traffic. Water sits a 90 up to just below the 110 deg mark in hot weather in heavy traffic, but right now it doesn't realy go much above 100 in traffic. The car should quickly warm up to 90 deg (it should never drop below it while running- if it does, the thermostat is stuck open). Max water temp should really be just below the 110 deg. An efficiently running system should be able to bring the temp down before the gauge reads 110. Fan kick in temp is 97 deg C, though because of the thermoswitch and water temp gauge sensor locations being very far apart, the gauge may read over 100 before you can see the fan come on. Theres a secondary ambient temp sensor on the engine that can operate the fan when the engine is off (latent heat build up an' all that). Most people usually hear the fan come on for up to 20 mins in hot weather after turning off. I've just read the date on the original post, so I'm assuming James is already happy with the answers on this thread, but I'm not deleting this. So Corrado4life, your oil temp of 110 deg is not necessarily a problem. It depends on the driving conditions.. If motorway cruising at legal speeds the temp could be just above 100 deg. If thrashing it or driving around a town this will be higher. Mine would average 110 deg around town. Hope this helps :)

The 5th injector is located on the end of the rail on the inlet manifold - rhs when looking from front. It has a blue connector attached to it. When cold, the temp sensor (thermotime switch) on the right side of the head, operates the injector for about 10 seconds, simply injecting more fuel into the engine to make it easier to start. The 5th injector is not used for hot starting. When the thermotime switch packs in, it can be stuck on either Cold, or Hot setting, so either always activating the 5th injector when the engine is cranked, or never operating the 5th injector when the engine is cranked. THis can cause the engine to be difficult to impossible to start when hot, or difficult to start and lumpy when cold (though only for a few seconds). You can check the 5th injector by removing it and pointing it into a jar. Get a mate to crank the engine (remove and earth the HT lead that goes into the dizzy). If its cold, fuel should come out for about 10 seconds and then stop. If its hot, little or none should come out.

yea, take the dizzy cap off and there shouldn't be any oil in there. I replaced the whole dizzy recently,and as I remember it was only marginally more expensive from Euro Car Parts (on an exchange basis) than the VW repair kit, and a whole lot less hassle.

Check for both spark and fuel (take a lead off and use a dummy plug to check for spark)(take an injector out to check for fuel - it simply pops out). Check the cold start valve (on the end of the rail on the front of the inlet manifold)is working (should fire fuel for about 10 seconds when cold), you'll need to unbolt it to do this, but its not difficult. It shouldn't fire when hot. If there's no spark (or a single spark followed by nothing) it could be the hall sender. Check the 3 (?) pin connector on the side of the distributor is not loose.

Yea, they're a decent bunch in there (Boucher I presume?). Is yours the blue VR6 I keep seeing around Stranmillis? If so I think I've seen it parked not a million miles from where I live :D

you really need a lower temp thermostat too, otherwise your fan will be on constantly (it knackered my fan with a standard thermostat and lower thermoswitch after a couple of months). The lower temp thermoswitch I used was from a VW transporter. Part number is 251 959 481K (or 701 959 841) with temp ranges of 87-76'C/93-82'C. Also see http://corrado.atx-hosting.co.uk/viewto ... ermoswitch. By the way, your heater problem is probably caused by (if not an airlock), a sticky inlet valve. Check the inlet pipe on the engine side of the bulkhead - there should be a silver valve (adjacent to a black one on the outlet pipe). Take it out and stick a straigh thru pipe on. If this fixes it it need a new silver valve. Its designed to prevent excess water pressure from bursting the heater matrix by closing when the temp gets high. This definately applys to 16v's, I dunno if the same system is used on the G60, but it must be similar as its the same heater.

Mmmm, full respray, interior retrim, new 16" wheels, head gasket, head rebuild, starter motor, all engine mounts, water pump, water pump pulley, distributor and leads, wishbones, ball joints, bushes, topmounts, rear topmounts, front struts, front springs, all bumpstops, arb links, arb's (modification), rear discs and bearings, front bearing, both front outer CV boots, drivers/passenger windows and window seals, steering rack/bulkhead rubber gaitor, both fuel pumps and some other bits I'm sure I've forgot. But then it was a bit of a scrapper project bought for a grand!! :D 8) All this when I know I won't be driving it much after the end of this year due to spending a lot of time across the pond! How insane is that??!

as danger mouse says, the black plastic cap lifts up - kinda pivots up around the smaller end. But be careful not to break the plastic washer nozzle off, as this is what I was replacing, and iI can now say its a real awkward thing to do!!!!!!!!

check the rack mounts. I thought my rack was gone again (it was only replaced by VW over a year ago :shock: ) Turned out the VW mechanics had not tightened it onto the subframe properly. (really not surprised as I've had to re-do every other bit of work they've done) The creak/groan/knock was being caused by the rack actually moving 5-10mm in either direction. Tightened these 4 13mm bolts properly and all noised disappeared. The rack shouldn't move when the wheel is turned.

Alloy wheel cleaner/protector is the biz for getting rid of all that grease from the inside of your rims.

Wohoo!! :D Car passed the MOT tonight. :D :D :D :D No problems (bar a bit of rust on one of the rear brake lines). I've either replaced or at least removed and refitted most parts on this car since last year. I've spent not just a small fortune, but also a HUGE amount of time on it. First time I've done any major mechanical work on a car too, Have to say right now I'm pretty pleased with myself. Well, a very deserved THANKYOU goes out to everyone on here who has given me help over the past year, and excuse the cliche but, I couldn't have done it without you. I love you guys :cry: Looks like I'll have to go and get very very drunk tonight then. :D 8)