chuck

anybody here got Eibach arb's??

I have Eibach anti roll bars and since fitting them there seems to be a knocking from the front of the car, only over hard bumps. At first I thought it was the replacement wishbones, but I'm pretty confident I have sorted that (GSF/ECP wishbones are a very different shape from VW ones - no clearance for the arb :shock: ). When fitting (as opposed to neuspeed arb's) there were no front wishbone eyebolt bushes supplied. Apparently Eibach never supply these. So, unable to push the original VW rubber bush on, I cut it out to size with a knife to be able to fit it on the 22mm dia roll bar. Now its quite a thin rubber bush, which I think is causing the arb to knock against the eyebolt over bumps. Anyone who has fitted eibach arb's - what did you do on the eyebolt bush???? I have called Powerflex, and they will do a 22mm dia bush, but will be £30 for the pair! I want to be sure this will fix it before I buy them.

Problem with the 16v is that they use a mechanical metering head to control the fuelling. tho you can get an induction kit for this engine. The company that makes them is Stroeve, and they cost about £120. I've seen a pic of it before, and as I recall is a replacement metering head with a cone filter attached to the bottom. This all sits down in the existing aibox. check this link out - couple of interesting comments on this thread which might save you money, but still see the performance gains you's expect from an induction kit. http://corrado.atx-hosting.co.uk/viewto ... uction+kit

I have just installed an uprated loom made by H100VW, and I highly recommend this modification for the following reasons: 1/ I can no longer recognise my cars reflection at night in windows as "oh that must be me with the dull yellow lights..." 2/ when illuminating a signpost in the distance (or even the road ahead), its my lights, not the lights from the guy behind me!! 3/ I no longer get scared when I see oncoming traffic on a road, I can still see the road and so dont aim "just about 2 feet to the left of the left bright light"!!! 4/ I can't recommend enough doing, like this loom, the main spot lights too (most looms only do the main light) - I really wouldn't want to be caught approaching me at night with full beam on. 8) And its easy to fit - what more can I say??

A i remember when I bought mine, one front fog wasn't working, and neither was one brake light. Seems they share a fuse. If its a fuse, neither of your brake lights should be working. Also check that the fog isn't shorting to anything (my problem was that the connector had pulled thru the rubber cover on the fog and had shorted to the car body).

Hello mate, I'm in a 16V round Belfast - the one without door handles!!

Had to get my arches cut out and new ones welded in due to a bad arch rolling job.. Get it done professionally, and don't do it on the cheap - you'll regret it later..

2-3k sounds very reasonable for a bare metal respray - considering the labour involved in removing the interior etc... I payed around 2k, but mine wasn't bare metal, and some welding was involves, (not to mention a door mod). Check out some other full resprays that this guy has done - especially ones that have weathered a year or so - see how his work stands the test of time...

Hi, I have been given some very conflicting advice on the 50mm inlet. Is this a worthwhile mod to an otherwise standard engine (only mod is a panel filter)? I have been told that it will make a noticeable difference, though I heve read on here that it won't. I also don't wantto sacrifice what little low down torque the standard engine has. Also visually, whats the difference. i saw one on a golf and it was more square (angular anyway) than mine, whereas the one i have lined up looks exactly like mine, i.e. round. thanks

I fit eibachs to my 16v, and though the front was fine, it lowered the rear by near 90mm!! :shock: . Eibach took the springs back and checked them and found no problem with them. My C sits fine with standard springs in :? . They told me a t hte time that they often get people complaining that the rear sits lower than the front, but not ever by this amount. What I'm saying is there may be several different types of spring, and in my experience with them I wasn't a satisfied customer (tho I kept the fronts and got me money back)

Not too sure what the DPS is?? But try a search on here for the ISV - common K-Jet problem. When you say it takes ages for the revs to catch up with your foot, do you mean it splutters when accelerated (sometimes trying to die) - but only for a minute or so when cold? check all the vacuum pipes are attached and in one piece. Cold start valve problems could also impair cold starts...

If its working manualy its not the £240 unit in the boot. Check these out - might help you.. http://corrado.atx-hosting.co.uk/viewto ... ht=spoiler http://corrado.atx-hosting.co.uk/viewto ... ht=spoiler

Hey Henny, How's that motor coming along? Well, that was easier than I thought. Clutch master & slave replaced and whole system bled with nice new fluid - some real dirty muck came out. just the rubber gaitor to do now and it'll breeze the MOT. BTW, "cold and dark" has turned into "cold dark and wet" :(

cheers andy, good info there. It helps to have a picture of what you're about to butcher!!

Anybody? I have to do all this tomorrow, and so far I have 1 bolt off the slave cylinder with the other one stuck!?

Hello, I have a few bots and pieces to do for the MOT. Gonna do all the work myself tho, and I have a few questions. 1/ Clutch slave cylinder - hows this come out? One bolt comes out, but the fwd one hits the gear selector mechanism half way. 2/Any tricks I should know about on the clutch master cylinder removal and refitting?? 3/whats the procedure for bleeding the corrado brakes - I believe its different from golf II. 4/ How to disconnect the uv joint from both the steering rack and the steering column. I need to fit a new rubber knuckle from rack to bulkhead.(subframe needs lowered I think) I am doing this work this weekend, (despite cold and dark :? ), so any help is appreciated. Thanks

Also if you removed the airbox, and the big plastic air intake arm, then it is likely that the two vacuum hoses at the throttle end of all this may have come loose. With airbox and inlet arm in place, feel around under the arm, close to the throttle, that there are two small hoses, one white/clear and the other covered in weave, are attached. Ignition timing is easy. loosen the dizzy, Set it,about center in its movement, drive it, advance it 'till it pinks (by driving again), then retard it till it JUST stops. (advance is turning top towards front of car, retarding the reverse. Failing that, as Henny says, just check all hoses are attached, there are no cracks in the inlet arm, and recheck the timing again - and be very sure the cambelt tension is correct (grab the cambelt between the cam and crank pulleys an the front side. You should be able to turn the belt thru 90 deg by hand and no more)

there's two marks. 1/ Crank pulley. You should line the mark on the inside (closest to engine) flange of the crank pulley with the arrow on the lower plastic cam cover. A bit awkward to see from above. This marks TDC on the closest piston. You could verify this by removing the spark on the piston closest to cam belt, and dropping a very long screwdriver down. Rotate the crank until the screwdriver is as its highest. 2/ When 1/ is set, check that the mark on the cam pulley lines up with the front end of the top of the head - at the join with the rocker cover. The upper plastic cam cover needs removed to see this. If the tensioner was loose ( :shock: :shock: ) it is possible that the belt slipped a few teeth.

Wow, those are dear :shock: Cheers for the info Mike.

Hi, Not corrado related, but my mate has bought a Rangerover. Problem is it only has 3 matching wheels. He's desperately looking for another of this type, which the manufacturer has told him has been discontinued. Does anybody know where he might get one, or maybe even have one? Apparently they're from a BMW!? Make: Breyton Type: Inspiration 18h2 Size: 18" (tyres not important but tyres currently fitted are 255/55 R18) Any help appreciated.

I like the last one, though there's an element of squashed peugeot 206 in it :shock:

I'm thinking of changing muy current setup at the moment. I've just received some good advice, and i'm interested on views from anybody here. Setup right now. (everyting not mentioned is standard) Front - Eibach springs Eibach roll bar Boge Turbo Gas shocks Rear - Standard springs Eibach roll bar Boge Turbo Gas shocks. problems with this setup - the front roll bar knocks on the wishbones (if i ever get this fixed I might just leave it all alone). Its also a bit unsetled/bouncy on uneven roads. So what I'm thinking of Front - standard springs (with a coil removed) standard roll bar Bilstein Sprintline shocks Rear - standard springs Eibach roll bar Bilstein Sprintline shocks. OR Front - Eibach spring Standard roll bar Boge turbo gas shocks Rear - Standard springs Eibach roll bar Boge turbo gas shocks Basically I want to leave the rear fairly soft, but keep the advantage of the uprated rear roll bar, while stiffening up the front end a bit. All comments welcome

mmmm, the 16v rocco. That was supposed to be a blast wasn't it? Not many of them built I believe. Mine was a 1.8i, and it was bloody quick. It was first registered in may 92, and I was told when i bought it that it was one of the last sold, in N.Ireland anyway. Sold it for £450. :( Difficult cars to sell, as nobody knows what they are...

check with VW which other models used that strut. Then go visit a scrapyard :)

What K-star does is control the advance curve, which overcomes the main downfall of K-Jet mech injection. Means it will recognise the lower octane fuel and automaticaly retard the timing (removing the pinking), and gradually advance the timing again over the rev band and depending on load. This is what the more modern electronic injection engines do. The standard K-Jet has to be manually set to account for the fuel type. But it will not adjust itself dependant revs or load. Retarding the timing will allow 95ron to be used without pinking, but it will lose a fair amount of power. K-jet allows 95ron to be used with minimal loss of power as it makes the engine more efficient. I was told by mechanic to advance it as far as it will go to squeeze any extra power out of it. At the moment mines at 5 deg advanced (don't know what factory settings are), thats as far as mine will go on 98ron. This same guy advances the toyota corrolla twin cams to 15deg :shock: