chuck

Well, that wasn't too hard. I got it changed without taking the whole drive shaft out, tho I did require a big hammer :wink: . Anyway, cheers guys.

Try bleeding the clutch first, as there could simply be air in the lines. Failing that, then as Kev says, the slave will need replaced. Stick your foot on the clutch and hold it there for a while - several minutes. If the biting point feels to have moved even further down, its likely that the slave cylinder is sh@gged. If it doesn't change anything, then its likely that bleeding it first might help. Bear in mind too that some people opt to change both the slave AND master cylinders when this happens.

Yea, its easy enough. 3 screws remove the unit from the car. The plastic surround will pull off. You'll see lugs holding it in place - if it sticks, you might have to prise these free, but other wise it should slide off. Then prise the 10 or so metal clips off. These hold the glass to the unit, and can be removed with a screwdriver, tho hold your hand over them when you prise them off, otherwise you'll spend some time trying to find them again. Oh and prise them off the plastic housing first, otherwise you might damage the glass, and vice versa when your pushing them back on. DON'T touch the reflector when the glass is off, I noticed that a damp finger will start to remove the silver!! Good luck.

yup, lift pump, common problem on the valvers (is yours a 2.0 16v Or a VR6??). EDIT: Ha , I said common problem, what I mean is that this can often happen, especially when the car has done in excess of 100,000 miles. So not really a weakness or a problem then :wink: . Probably a good idea to replace the main one too anyway, as the extra strain (working without the lift pump) usually sh@gs it. It really annoys me that what is a common, simple problem, is always mis-diagnosed by so called specialists. :x Bet you they don't even know there is a pump in the fuel tank...

Two switches for the fan. Thermoswitch in the radiator (which I assume is the one you changed) switches on when the coolant temp is high, and one that switches on when the engine bay temp is high (on the front left side of the head, by the alternator bracket/engine lift point (as I recall) - black and yellow with 1 spade connector) Does it still do it when you disconnect the switch. If so check the other sensor, If this is earthing it will turn the fan on. Failing that check out the fan loom. Its simply a conector to power, a connector to the thermoswitch, and a connector to the fan. Maybe a silly question, but did you put the connector onto the switch the right way - I've found several times with GSF/ECP parts that the connectors don't match. Your engine temp is not getting above 80 probably due to the fan being on constantly (tho it should really get closer to 90 unless theres another problem - thermostat). Play around with these connectors, you should soon work out whats not working :D EDIT: BTW as regards your last post if your fans on all the time it will soon wreck a bearing - happened me, in rush hour, at roadworks...

I might have to do the inner too, tho it looks like you can drive that one out OK. Like you say henny I was unsure as to how much abuse the inner joint could take with someone "gently tapping" the outer joint off. Tho I'm pretty sure the guy who did the other side didn't take the whole shaft off. I'll have a looksee tomorrow.

Hi Henny, you mean take the shaft out and grip it in a vice? Cuz if so , I'll have to take it somewhere else, as I ain't got a vice.

I'll be attempting this tomorrow for the MOT on saturday (it'll be kinda like an exam at school/uni - its testing me on all the work I've done on it this year). The Haynes manual for the golf is a bit unclear. Does the whole shaft need to come out for this? If not, how do you "...drive the outer joint from the driveshaft..."? Also any hints on releasing the hub nut would be great. Once the rain stops ( :x ) and I can get at it, I'll soak the nut in WD40, but I tried last week and it wouldn't budge. Car started moving backwards, and I nearly broke my back.

I thought the Boge turbo gas were standard rate. Are they uprated???? Makes sense I suppose as Boge do sell gas and turbo gas ones.

M8, check out the link in this thread http://corrado.atx-hosting.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=5045 Basically it says "Headlamps The headlamp lenses and the plastic outside trim ring were made larger to fill the gap between the wing and headlamp; you have to look closely to notice this. The rest of the lamp is the same, so early lamps can be fitted with later lenses and trim rings." So looks like you could use the lights, and possibly use your own lenses and surround. Or if US spec don't fit, you could source these. Either way, I think (based totally on this article) the early Euro spec ones should fit, might just be a slightly bigger gap to the wing and bonnet tho.

Toyos are great, bags of grip. Haven't gotten it to step out yet - even in the wet, then I don't really drive it on the edge all the time. Does seem to be a soft compound tho - had 'em just over 6 months now and fronts are nearly half down. Even still, I wouldn't replace them with anything else. Oh yes, and another thing, the rim protectors are huge, really give that square look, and really useful as I park on a kerb too.

Will, I have done it, I don't know anybody else on here that has. I think its a terrific mod. No more broken handles, no more pry in damage (worst you'll get is a broken window, before the alarm scares off 90% of the thugs trying to get in or nick it, not to mention the time wasting with "where the f@ck is the handle"). It can get annoying at times tho, as you need two hands to open the door. I have also been told that Corrado doors are heavy with tight/sticky door seals that can prevent the door poppong open as it would on othere cars where you might more commonly see shaved doors. To be honest I haven't noticed this yet, tho I do live in Ireland, and it really doesn't get as hot here as somewhere, say, like Texas. I suppose you could lube up the seals with a graphite spray to stop 'em sticking. Just a point tho to bear in mind before you start. As for the details, check out my info in this thread. http://corrado.atx-hosting.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=825 and also my thread in the gallery http://corrado.atx-hosting.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=1135 I'm also working on tidying up the wiring a bit, so have drawn out circuit diagrams which aren't posted here yet as its still a work in progress. Tho the way it is now has worked without hiccup for the past year. Feel free to PM me for more info.

easy... http://www.neuspeed.com AwesomeGTI are the distributors in the UK. Their number is on the website

Wow, what happened to VW's plans (ar at least their "reported" plans). G60 built alongside the 2.0 16v and VR6?? The golfs 150bhp engine quickly replacing the 2.0 16v?? And the VR6. If it is still now an awesome car, what would it have been with 24v and 225bhp??? Reading some of those articles nearly makes me feel guilty for modding the suspension. VW were commended for getting it just right first time. Good find - I enjoyed reading those. :D

cheers Tattie, I'll try againg sometime this week. Bit strange as the 'rocco one just pulls out, then you disconnect the cables.

Two types as far as I know. Eibach - only sell as a complete kit - front and back (front is 22mm, dunno about the rear). About £250 (tho to do it right, you need a pair of front eyebolt bushes from powerflex £30, as for some reason they aren't supplied) Neuspeed - do several different thicknesses. Rear is also adjustable. I was on the site the other night and i think the prices were around $190 (??)each. Convert that to pounds. BTW, if you're only going for 1 arb get the rear. Much more benefit from upgrading the rear. The standard front arb is pretty good, so upgrading is only marginally better. With just the front one, the car may handle well wierd :shock: .

check the little temp senders on the gearbox side of the head too. One of them (there are 3 with another at the back of the head) controls the ISV. Can't remember which one, but 1 also does the water temp gauge on the dash. Find that one, then use it to check the others. When mine went, I changed the ISV and the water gauge ones over - meant I could drive, but without the water temp gauge.

Happened to mine. One shop had your problem, they wanted to cut the whole thing out and replace it, but couldn't source a section. The other one said it didn't all need cut out, so they cut out sections of the lipped bit only (sort of a right angle section). These bits are easily avaiable to body shops, as they can be worked to whatever diameter they want. I thought my arches were gonners, but I saw it before it was r- painted, and there were only about 2 or 3 sections of about 4-5 inches long on each arch that needed replaced. The rest of the metal cleaned right up. :D BTW i was told at the time that they could fill and repaint, or cut, weld and paint, but that the welding would be a far more permanent job. They really only recommended filling it if you were tyring to flog the car.

dash ones, how do you replace them?? I tried taking it out today, but it seemed caught on something - do you need to release the cables at the back from underneath it (by attacking it by removing the lower dash). I'm trying to change the bulb over the speedometer by the way.

Got a new rear mount for £68 from ECP today. I had a look underneath the other day and saw a big dent in the down pipe heatshield. Looks like the rear mount is so knackered that the downpipe hits the steering rack :shock: . One possible cause of the knocking that is annoying me so much right now. If that doesn't stop the engine rocking about then its time for a VT front mount :) . I hope it is easy to fit, as I've had my fill of spending all weekend under it recently.....

Ha, time for a big bonnet scoop from Corsas-R-Us :lol:

LOL :D :D What is with those washer jet things?? Though as far as "illegal" lights go, I suppose its like "illegal" number plates - I'd rather not give them an excuse to pull me over. Kev, good point on the reallignment of lights. When I lowered mine, it kept the rear where it was, and brought the front down. The edge of drivers light pool disappearred below the bonnet line... :shock:

Whats the max power bulb you can legally put in? In Halfords there are 130W 100W and 80W, then the standard 55W. But even the 80W says its not category E approved.... Maybe better to go for the best "Super Brilliance" 50% uprated 55/60W bulbs?

A water pump is only £20-£30 from GSF/ECP. Well worth changing as when i did mine, the highest water temp dropped by at least 5 deg, just from better water flow!! Bit of a b!tch to get at tho, as the alternator and p/s pump have to come off. If you do replace it, make sure a new O ring is included, as yours will no doubt be in bad shape and stuck to the block. Get a new thermostat too, again with O ring, and check that its plastic elbow casing isn't cracked. As for the pulley, be careful when removing it, as mine fell apart, and the bearing surface fell out in bits. Its really really stupid that you have to buy a whole pulley at £130 from VW, when the only bit that needs replacing is a removable plasticky bearing at probably no more than a couple of quid :x :x :x BTW, mine leaked from exactly the same place (noticeable from bottom of p/s pump), and replacing pump and thermostat fixed it right up. :D

Yea the part numbers match alright. just seem that they are not identical. Not hugely different tho, just the GSF ones have deeper flanges, which foul on the bigger arb. Its all ground down to size now tho :twisted: . Ruffy, cheers for info, but I've already gone and ordered a pair of powerflex 22mm dia ones :( (should slide straight on tho...). Problem is I have no way to drill the bush out, I used a sharp kitchen knife on the rubber ones, which made a bit of a mess, and probably the reason for my problems :shock: For info, for anyone with Eibach anti roll bars. The official word is the Eibach expect you to open out ( :shock: ) the existing rubber bush to allow the roll bar to fit. (annoying as Neuspeed provide a complete new mounting kit - apparently). Powerflex are the only company that manufacture a poly bush to fit the Eibach's 22mm dia. The only outlet for these (besides buying from Powerflex directly, but they prefer to make batches and will charge extra for small quantities) is a place called C&R Enterprises (01159785740). The part number is PFF85-210-22 and is priced at £30 ish.