2cc

Ooh, that's nice and shiny, tho' I feel inclined to leave the wax in there for protection myself, or are you re-waxing it? If so, with what might I ask? On the PAS, I took the cap off, but it still didn't drain - how weird is that? Hopefully there's plenty in there for now and I'll talk to dealers about a flush & renewal later, maybe. I am not looking forward to fitting the new cross member bushes, bet they were a right sod - maybe they merit going on Kev's "worst jobs" list LOL So are you gonna sell us solid front mounts now then? The only thing I wondered about that was whether it would put a bit more strain on the tranny etc but there's probably some 'additional load capacity' built in.

Green, in Bruton last Saturday, flashed and waved. Red, in Ubley this morning, I flashed but didn't see any response :(

Nice job Andy. Got my other tensioner bolt today so can start getting the engine back together at last. My bits won't be back from coating for about 10 days at least so still a while to go there. Interesting you mention PAS pump noise, I notice mine only dumped about as much fluid as was in the pipes when I disconnected - the reservoir level has not dropped at all strangely. So I wondered whether there was anything 'peculiar' about how to top that up. I was just going to reconnect the pipework & turn her over but don't want to find the level drops & it then draws air into the system as I can't see a bleed screw anywhere. Anyone got any info on this?

Soyez le bienvenue J-E G60 Est ce que correct? Je dit la Francais un peu seulement aussi :)

Those bits are looking good Andy, hope mine come back as nice. Can hardly wait to start getting her all put back together, still waiting for new lower chain tensioner bolts at the mo :( sigh

Gavin wrote: 'Yes, I know you are only 5, but don't bring one home to meet me, ever.' :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Quality my man Trouble is, have you noticed how this generally seems to happen when the oil temp is not even showing on the readout? And I often can't be arsed because, to paraphrase the shampoo ad " you're just not worth it"

Good call Jim, like your logic

B******* And just after getting the boot sorted too. Feel for you Nikki. If I caught anyone round mine I'd likely end up in the nick (or hospital)

Oh, a new block & head too then :lol:

Yeah, very neat Andy. Despite large drip tray mine was still sick on the floor. But isn't it annoying having to take the front off to get the rad out? Was gonna pull mine and clean it up but then couldn't be arsed.

Yep he's a 'good bloke' alright. Right about the hair - mines fast disappearing :D Lavishly illustrated writeup definitely to follow soon's I can manage

Tee Hee, that was slack of me - didn't notice that Kev :lol: Oh dear this task is d r a g g i n g o u t, good job no rush to move the car, had to get away and do a bit of family loss support. Anyway, I spoke to Vince this morning and he confirmed (my concerns) that the chains intermediate sprockets MUST be fitted with the timing mark uppermost otherwise it just don't run right; can't say why but tis the case. Glad I waited cos I put it on the other way up (where you can see the timing mark unobstructed) lol. Just waiting for a couple of new bolts for the lower tensioner now (sigh) and new seal(s) for the oil cooler then I might be able to start getting her back together next week. Really starting to miss her now, specially as I've been caning the valver up and down to Weymouth the last week.

Yep, but I think Vince is taking a long break till new year as I've had no joy trying to get him this week :(

Yeah crazymarcel, I tend to agree with kevhaywire. Not sure about the price tho', links for my 16v cost £26.71 + vat but reckon we're lookin at a vr here so bound to cost more lol. I'll have a shufti under mine tomorrow, but looks like the link from the pix.

Yeah Kev, bits of resin all over the end of the block, might be worth an oil change too if it gets in the sump. The vortex diy thread mentions loctiting the shorter bolt on the guide rail (mine was) to stop it coming out and fouling the chain. The sprocket timing position is odd isn't it, but there is a definite setting point - just that there are two marks on the block, so the sprockets can be at 0 or 180, obviously with the crank and cams at TDC position. I'll do a couple of pics tomorrow. I was just a tad concerned whether the 0/180 question was an issue or not (as long as it is exactly one or the other). From what you say Matt it doesn't appear to be a problem. Only 117k on your tensioner, mines got 124 on it - so you've obviously ragged yours lol.

Wahay, finally got a picture to post up. Actually it doesn't show the split too well, but I'll put some better ones up later when downloaded from the camera

Hi Kev, Sadly, my new laptop (xp) refuses to run Bentley despite the various fixes peeps have posted and I've no other books. No, I've not turned it at all, all locked up. But the spindle that the intermediate sprockets fit onto seems to be just that - a spindle - not mechanically connected to anything other than the sprockets/chains. Hadn't thought of calling the guys you suggest as thought they were more into supplying bits rather than this type query. Have tried to att pic of my poorly top tensioner pad about to fall to bits - notice the split by the bottom rivets :shock:

Christmas Day, shiny red, flashed and came past as I was bimbling west along the M4 approaching M32 junction. Didn't spot model as was too busy eyeing your lady :lol: Anyone here?

AFAIK all the horns get a permanent supply with ign on and the circuit earth is made when you hit the button. So I'd suspect a rogue earth. From your symptoms I'd look at the horn connections first, could have water/ice earthing it down, then work back up the loom. HTH

Ahem. Slight embarrassment. Has anyone on here done the chains job on an ABV VR6 engine? When I took it apart I couldn’t see the timing marker on the inner intermediate sprocket so didn’t get a photo of it, but after it was apart I spotted it – I am sure it must have been in the ‘upper’ position, where it is obscured from sight by the chains. The concern I have in reinstalling it is that the thrust washer behind it (and fixed to the block) has two timing grooves, one at the top and one at the bottom. So the question is which way up should my sprocket be fitted when engine at TDC? I have it in my head that with different numbers of teeth on the two sprockets that their relationship will be critical, and that if I fit them 180 out then one may lead the other instead of lagging it – or something, so I want to be certain before I bolt it up. The write up on the vortex site shows the sprocket timing mark at the bottom, but that engine has a pair of simplex chains so is different from mine/ours which has a duplex top chain. And Vince seems to still be on holiday and I don’t want to wait till the new year to do this! Hope everyone had a good Christmas Funny thing Jim, but I did think of giving you a call too……. On the bright side, since my work server has just crashed (again!!!)I’ve come home to check out all the changes to the site instead :)

Er, correction Darren. That should be min 3 cups - one whilst first peering at it, one when the tensioning tool won't tension, then one when you slam the bonnet and stomp off :lol:

Hi guys, engaged brain and called Stealth for the numbers. Needless to say these are not in stock this far south but, of course, Vince had some. Big Up to him and the boys, and I have just got back from a high speed dash up there to collect them. For anyone else still interested in the part numbers, I can confirm that they are: Late type top tensioner pad - 021 109 509E Late type Tensioner Plunger (bolt) - 021 109 507B And of course I have the numbers for the rest of the stuff that goes in there! Final cost £538.86. So it had better last a while. Thanks for your replies fellas, much appreciated. skimask - I can't open your files. My microsoft package (win xp) says it doesn't recogise them - even when I ask it to search the web. dr mat - I know, but i've searched for ages and could never find the numbers. Kev - You were pretty close. I thought I'd attached a pic of the old & new pads on my last post (it was there on preview) but evidently not. Once I learn how to do that I'll post some pix of the job The rebuild starts on Monday :D Happy Christmas to anyone still browsing. Talk to you again when Andi has finished working his magic. Cheers Andi

Great news Dave. HCTYT

HELP. I got all my new bits today(cept the tensioner bolt), but find the new MK4 type top tensioner pad does not fit. It has got an extended pivot tube in comparison to the original part and my dealer can't tell which "Mk 4" we are talking about. PLEASE, has someone got the part number for this new bit. AND I'm thinking the new tensioner bolt may also be the wrong bit (when it arrives) so would like the number fro that also. See pic of the old and new bit[/img] I was really hoping to rebuild her over the hols but am stuffed if I can't get the right bits pdq Thanks in advance

This seems to have generated some interest. My only comment on 'chain rattle' is that people keep talking about it - whether you would actually hear it (cos I haven't) is another matter. Perhaps the best thing is just to have a look - then you'll know. Kev, the symptoms and noise was just as you described - wonder whats going on inside your bell housing (no jokes please we're British) But more importantly. Nobody want to guess how much the bits cost? (Actually Timo my spares man identified all the bits without any help) Someone please come back with the Torque Figures so I can rebuild it................. Just managed to get the bottom cover off - back to work on it now