2cc

Yeah, I'd be up for a couple for the valver and vr. Sorry they only have electric fans though, but.....a la WRC "The fans are really good. They've been keeping us warm inside the car" :D

Most often seen? Has to be Dark Burgundy Pearl 'cos its parked outside my window hahaha

Down to MikeE, he gave me the number. C

1JO 412 303 Cost me £8.10 each from my stealer

A cautionary tale, or, how could I be so stupid? Think I'd know better by now. Just thought I'd share this wth you - might be of help to some and amusement to others. So I lowered the 16v by 25/30 back in March (Koni T/As, Eibachs) and have been somewhat unhappy with the weird and nasty noises it's been making when coping with potholes or dropped drain covers; but felt really great on good surfaces. Discussed several times with the suppliers who agreed that everything was fitted as it should be and there shouldn't be anything wrong wth it. Also spoke with a couple of performance garages who also couldn't suggest anything. I know a few people have had trouble with the Konis so I was starting to wonder whether they were at fault. Then I spoke with Mike Edwards at Longleat last w/e who said to cut the bumpstops down. Did that yesterday. What a difference. I didn't realise till I took the weather shrouds off the damper that she was actually sitting on the bumpstops. :shock: Like Mike suggested, I fitted the shortened Mk4 Golf fronts and cut two segments off the backs. Now I have sprung suspension instead of solid rubber - like it's supposed to be LOL. :oops: Now I must say in my defence that when I did the same mod to the VR6 a while back, and asked specifically about bump stops, and was told that the originals would be fine - and have to say that she feels fine on them (though I will have another look at them once I get the clutch sorted out). Thanks Mike. PS VAG replaced a front bearing and flange (which they b******d up) for free last Wed so now my brakes work properly again - no squealing or vibration, so I'm :) again.

Not got mine yet. When did it come out?

Two of you, spotted several times in/around Trowbridge as I've been bimbling about in the Burgundy valver. One Red, one Burgundy - sorry didn't clock the models but both lookin good

The boys at AMD sorted me out with a 'suitable circlip' from the spare box, so still no idea what the vag part no is. It has made an amazing difference to ease of selection, second especially.

The pipe runs inside the car along the passenger door sill (with the rear wiring loom) up and across the rear seat pan, its probably just behind the side trim panel but you can see it under there if you remove the seat cushion. Then into the boot space under the wheel arch carpet, goes to rear of wheel arch then up into he body void and out through the rubber gaiter (probly a joint here too but never looked) into the top of the boot lid then down inside the frame to the wiper motor. I've found the joints appear in different places, like the valver has one under the boot carpet, but the vr has a joint up behind the wheel arch void - guess it just depends how long the bits of pipe were when they built it. Sounds like yours have come apart under the boot carpet, tho' mine usually falls off the wiper motor. hth

Cheers Duncan, It gets more insane by the minute, just tried the dealers, the alternative number has some barring against it - apparently a Skoda/Seat part. Might have to try them. Or, he says, one of the mechs might have something in his tool box that'll fit :shock: Course I could try wrapping a paper clip round it :) Hey ho, something else that will probably take weeks to sort out. Maybe AMD will have one on Sat.

Anybody know the right part number for the circlip that limits lateral throw of the gear lever on a 1990 16V? Dealer has supplied me 2 different ones, neither of which fit (no surprises there then) ! Part no of one is N0123276, but don't know the other one. Cheers guys

Jedi, I put Koni T/As and 30/35 mm springs on my '95 VR last year and very pleased I am too. As the guys say, the lower spring mount and shock absorber is a complete assembly, unlike the early 16v (maybe others as well?) where you can take the shocker out the mount and replace it. As far as I know, the spring top plate was always the same size, but when I first offered up my new springs the plate fell inside the spring - basically the top coil was too wide. Got back to the suppliers and they said 'oops', new correct size springs in the post. Only way to find out if the bits'll fit is to drop a strut and take it to bits, but its real easy. Just remember to mark up the alignment of the strut with the hub so that the wheel alignment is as close to original as you can get it, though I would always go for a full re-align after taking this apart. hth have fun

The "whoosing noise" you can hear is produced by the vacuum assist reservoir. It should not be particularly load. If you run the engine to evacuate the reservoir, then switch off the engine you can apply the brake pedal a few times and hear the noise die away as the pressure equalises; the pedal pressure also changes as the pressure changes. Regarding the other comments about brakes not working for a few seconds & grinding noises I'd say get it in the worksop NOW cos you have some problems.

Hi richn, bit confused (well I am gettin on a bit) by your description which seems to suggest that the rubber mount is above the bodywork. From what I can gather you are looking down onto the top of the strut from inside the engine bay. The rubber top mounting (which also carries a bearing) is fitted onto the top of the damper piston above the spring and spring top plate. When you offer this up to the mounting hole from under the wing and push it upwards, the rubber mounting will fit right up against the bodywork (but inside the wheel well). As you say, the top plate then drops over the damper piston and held on with a nut. There will be a gap (varies abit depending on model and type of mountings used) between this top plate and the bodywork. When you take the load off the strut (ie jack the car up) the strut will drop a bit and the top plate then rests on the bodywork - basically it just stops the strut dropping through the hole. If this is what you meant then its quite normal. hth

MickeyT, The glass should be glued on to the frame. You'll have to take it all out the door to do a proper job of bonding it back together, pretty straightforward but a bit fiddly,

could be a fashion statement Topaz Gold - the new Black

deffo not bo m8 did u set kes on her?

Mickey, The glass should be glued on to the guide

I've met two round here, both with VR6s, but neither are on the forum. Both proper C enthusiasts, one of them track races.

Mine are also loose, the plate has little plastic pegs on the top corners which protrude into the boot lid and have plastic nuts holding it all together; the bottom edges are held in by hook like protrusions. Problem is that the pegs are prone to breaking off. My dealer says the plates are still available at about £40 + VAT a time. I have not got around to getting any yet so haven't tried to strip the old one off the car - looks like its only the lock mechanism holding it on but don't know how much fun that will be to remove. Anyone actually done it yet?

Some confusion here methinks. The cat is at the front end of the system (under the gearshift) and has a stoneguard bolted underneath it. As Roddy says the brackets often break free and need rewelding - the noise usually becomes apparent at certain rev bands. If you are talking about heat shields near the 'fuel pump' I think you mean the fuel filter as the pump is inside the tank. The question is, is it the shield that is loose or is it the exhaust moving to such an extent that it hits the shield? If the shield has come loose then you will have to remove the main exhaust box so that you can re-fix it to the floor pan. If it's the exhaust moving too much then I'd suggest the rubbers are weak and should be replaced, though from what you say I'd suspect the latter. HTH

Hi mk2vr6, I have the same quite often with my vr6C. I changed the blue temp sensor which made no difference. If you blip the throttle about half travel & release, then hold about quarter open as you turn the key it should start more readily (does for me anyway). I'm pretty sure it mentions this in the owners handbook, so apart from being slightly annoying it has to be fairly normal.

This does sound like dodgy electrical connections to me. From your symptoms I would be tempted to make sure the plug on the abs brain hasn't worked loose for some reason (it shouldn't because there's a spring clip securing it but you never know). It's mounted behind the plastic shield in the left side footwell. Oh, yes, the rear sensor connectons are under the rear seats, so if all connections and resistance readings look ok then I'd get it vagcom'd. Don't own it myself so can't be certain, but the fault memory may be able to identify what's wrong. By the by, abs not working will not affect your ability to brake - it just means if you lock em up they stay that way till you relax the pressure (just like any car without abs).

How bizarre. Had my 6 stood for a few weeks till I got around to wiring in a new alarm (my dead fuel pump story) and she fired up lovely afterwards. Left her warming up while I cleared the workspace when this horrific clattering started from the top end. Frightened me to death and was worried about what might have just broken. Backed her out of the w/shop onto a sideways slope for a couple of mins and the noise miraculously disappeared - and no recurrance. How weird is that? I have noticed though that if I leave the 16v for any lenght of time it sometimes takes a while for the tappets to re-oil and quieten down, but thats a different story coz it's all in the sump.

Oh yes. Mine has done that. It doesn't seep/drip - believe me it bloomin pours in