2cc

bristolbaron, reckon I must have seen you a few times coming up Box hill, what time you usually there? Where you work in Corsham?, I'm at the Rudloe (MOD) site at top of Westwells road.

probably asking lots if its been there ages, but agree she looks vclean and oe suspension. One owner maybe?

Hi chap, looks nice. And with coded leads too :)

Oh Chris I just loved your replies. Haven't had such a good laugh since Granny caught her t........... :lol:

That sounds about right to me. The fuel pump only gets a short pulse of 12v to prime the system when the ign is turned on, then it drops to 0v. The voltage is restored when the engine is started and the pump then runs continuously. Know what you mean about the trafic noise - always when you least need it. You'll hear it better if you take out the boot carpet and parcel shelf. You could try putting a permanent 12v onto the pump (connector under the boot carpet) and see if you get a decent flow. Someone on here is bound to know what the unloaded flow rate should be. HTH a bit

really pleased to hear she's fixed Ant and you'll no longer need therapy. reminds me of my old techy fault finding days - what was the last thing that happened before it went wrong, and it's usually something simple.

unless it falls off, then you know it wasn't :roll:

Well, mine's never failed (thinks - is that the kiss of death) but I wouldn't expect it to leak, just not pump like it should and/or be rather noisy. That's a bumer getting towed but hopefully they won't charge you as you do have a permit; but being pessimistic I expect they will because you weren't displaying it. Luck & keep us posted

jboyslick. dunno, depends where your office is, and what time it was. Be lucky to recognise as green as needs a damn good wash - tomorrow maybe? Also spotted a Red Rado with lady driver this morning coming out of Box towards Bath. Any of you girls here??

Welcome Nicedice. Just DON'T hang any on the mirror LOL

The aux pump is on the end of the block behind the coil pack. Difficult to see as it (& the coil pack) is covered by the engine top covers. Have you any idea where the leak is yet? It could well be a hose, the one feeding the heater comes out the top of the head, at the back, and is prone to failing.

Poss air leak on a vacuum hose. Had a similar prob on mine years back (cutting out slowing for roundabouts/junctions - very unsettling at times) tho it wasn't as pronounced as yours seems to be. As you say, not so noticeable at higher revs. Can be a bugger to track it down tho. Luck

jboyslick. 8) At last , seen someone from on here You were looking out the back and I was in a fleet Fix Or Repair Daily doing an Airport pickup so didn't make a noise going by :)

Nice Blue VR6 in Chew Magna this afternoon. Was in a works motor so didn't advertise myself :) Anyone?

I'd suggest it's like me, gettin older by the day so it probably is the synchro. My valver is the same ('90), try some MT90 in it and live with the fact it needs a little longer to synchronise. You could also try double de-clutching

To add to the debate, for what it's worth. I had a recall on my '90 valver (probably got the paperwork at home somewhere) but that was to fit valves to the heater feed/return pipes in the engine bay. The explanation was that the valves closed off the feed in the event the matrix went so would prevent the possibility of the passenger being scalded. I believe also that this work was only for vehicles built up to '93 (no idea which month); the early matrixes were deemed to be 'lesser quality' and better ones were fitted from that point on. When I discussed this with my dealer at the time they said there was no intention of them picking up the tab for a new matrix if the car was more than 3 yrs old, but probably would do if it was younger. So my understanding is that you will get nowhere with a claim on a matrix since every C is more than 3 yrs old, and especially not if its '93 up. I suppose you might be able to get the valevs still, but again it will probably be at your own expense if your car was not on the original recall list.

No idea about the metals used, but the pimply finish sounds like the paint needs redoing. Happened to my valver, respray the only solution.

Utter barstewards. I went hairless when mine got chipped. Probably have had heart failure at this. They just don't deserve to breathe the same air

Or you could get a BIG DOG Ant. Good move with the security boys and No plate report Bally, hope its the last you see of them. You'd think they'd have come in after you'd left , but then (if they were chavs) not renowned for being sharpest in the box.

Woohooo, two in Trowbridge this afternoon. Blackberry VR6 parked outside Lloyds Bank (nearly as dirty as mine) and a White G60? just down the hill - tried out the new air horns on you. Anyone here?

OK. The starter draws a lot of current because it needs lots of grunt to turn the engine over. If you put power on to it when it's not bolted to the engine then it will leap about the place and could well hurt you - not good. When the starter motor rotates, the toothed dog spins with it and is thrown up the shaft; it is this that engages with the toothed ring on the flywheel so cranking the engine. This is the bit that you do not want to be getting in the way of if you power up the starter 'loose'. So yes, could be dangerous and you should take proper care. Right then, assuming you have tethered the starter in a vice or something, but hold it by the body NOT the shaft, then hook up the battery as I said before. Be very careful NOT to short the battery out when making the connections - there is a lot of energy stored in it. At best you will get some pretty impressive arcing, at worst the battery could split or explode so give it some respect. Assuming the battery is up to the job, when you touch the +ve supply to the solenoid 'push on lug' two things should happen. the solenoid (basically just a switch capable of handling the high current) should energise - this is the click you can hear - and makes the supply circuit for the motor which should then spin as described above. If it doesn't spin there are 3 possible reasons: 1. The solenoid does not energise (no click). 2. The solenoid energises (clicks) but its electical contacts do not 'make' so no supply volts to the motor. 3. The motor is dead All the above mean get a new starter, there is no point even trying to fix it. So take care. HTH

What I been missing Jim - you looking at selling? What happening man?

won't that stop the light getting out :lol:

Hi B17 G60, I suggest if you want to test the starter off the car that you hold it down with your foot or fix it in a vice as its likely to jump about a bit. You need to do this with the connections: Connect the batt +ve to the 13mm nut (as you did) and the batt -ve to the casing. You will then need to touch another wire from the batt +ve to the solenoid (the pin that had a red wire plugged on to it when it was on the car). This will energise the solenoid which makes an internal electrical connection from the incoming +12v on the 13mm nut to the motor windings and it should spin round. If it don't go then either the solenoid or the motor windings are duff and you need a new starter. HTH

Yep, agree with you on what it says in the handbook Steve, but guess I'm just lucky to have a particularly quiet pump - ie don't hear or feel it, unless actually using it in anger.