2cc

Just had the thing apart. Now I have a handful of little bits of broken plastic. It does work a bit better now, but there are still some bits trapped in there somewhere. The good news though is that vag have stock of 10 and will be here tomorrow, and they only cost £19 and a few pence Bargain! :lol: all the way PS Ive used my fogs loads of times and not had cracked glass. Would suggest its down to stones - otherwise, why did vag put them on the car?

Dinkus wrote LOL So best not use tem if its foggy right............

Cheers for quick replies guys. I haven't called stealer yet (you never know what's in his cupboard), or GPC cos am at work and don't have their number to hand. Yeah Jim, its for the valver, so tis the early type. That would be no big deal, but if I b***** it completely then I'd have no lights at the back

White C coming out Chippenham by Sainsbugs at 0715. No idea what type cos it was dark. I was in a works car so you wouldn't have seen me. Any takers?

Oh man. Sorry to hear that. Its my worst nightmare....... Hope damage not too bad. Keep us posted

OK the headlights were a bit reluctant to come on when I left home early this morn, but when barrelling down the windy road to work and selected main beam it all went dark :shock: No dip either. Quick panic and application of brakes till my brain caught up and thought to use the fogs. Looks like the h/l switch has deffo had it. Got it on the table now and its all loose bits inside and iffy operating. I don't think these are cheap are they? Searching revealed comments suggesting £75 (presumably from vag) and £51.70 from GPC. Haven't pulled it to bits (yet) as am concerned it won't work at all after that, and from the sound of it would be a waste of time anyway. Anyone know where I can get a new one for sensible money? Part No is 535 941 531B

There's also a spacer between the fan blades and motor which may have fallen apart - fan then scrapes on the motor which could be the noise. See if there is any movement on the shaft - but make sure its cold so you don't get your finger bit.

Re the boot lock, have you got it set in the right position with the key? I can't recall which position you want, but there is a deadlock position where the cent locking doesn't open it. Other comments spot on

Only £1,500 :shock: Get some time in Jim :lol: Difficult decision man, but if its down to the noise/refinement/insurance then I'd say go for the vr - assuming its in OK nick. Can Vince check it out before you make a decision? And like you say, you have no attachment for the G. Want me to look after it for a while to make up the set :lol:

Cheers Gavin, flatting the pipe might be worth a try, though its been on there a while so not sure it would be up to being messed with. Its actually got new rubbers, they were a sod to fit.

Stevemac, its on Eibachs. The springs do hold the weight of the car, the problem seems to be that with a full bump stop the back is a bit high and very firm; with two segments cut off the stops it is far too low (and the exhaust catches the beam); with one segment cut off the height is what I want it to be, ie same as the front (yesterday in damned rear springs in gen chat) What was confusing me was that I expected (normally) there to be a clearance gap between bottom of the bump stops and top of damper, and the stops only coming into contact when the suspension travel bottomed out. Your saying that the stops act as 'helper springs' sugests that they would normally be in contact with the car at rest. Which is what mine now are, just seemed odd is all.

Jeez samm, ouch, with oil loss like that you must have been laying a smoke screen like a WW2 destroyer. Was all this as sudden as you seem to suggest or did she take a while to expire. Bit surprising as the motor is normally pretty bombproof. Has it still got a sump plug in?

Yay, lets all hear it for Dads. :D :D :D :D By the way CorradoWannabe, would your Dad be up for sponsoring my new clutch & maybe a few timing chain bits? :lol:

Hurrah, finally got the back end matched with the front. On the top groove, new bump stops with one segment chopped and the dust(?) covers trimmed 20mm. Height and ride now much better, though shall have to live with the exhaust catching the beam through potholes. P'raps I'll try steering round them. Have to say that I was surprised to find that the bump stops are actualy just in contact with the damper, but they seem to compress quite naturally as the springs are exercised. Can't comment on comparative ride quality as only had oe before this, but maybe I'll try some H&Rs later on - after I've finished spending money fixing the vr. Cheers all

blue G plate at Rudloe 'bout 1pm today. Was that you Walt?

Two today, both blue. First one a VR6 coming out of Bradford-on-Avon about 1pm. I was in the Burgundy valver and flashed, we waved. Second also in BoA (might have been the same) one about 3pm, I just saw the tail going round the mini roundabout to cross the river. I was in the coffee shop - trying to finish today's crossword. Anyone here?

Thought I would join in with some questions for you too Steve. Having put 25/30mm springs on the 16v and left the bumpstops full length the ride was very firm, but I was getting weird thumping noises when going over potholes etc. As you'll have seen from my other posts on this, Mike Edwards suggested that I should cut the stops down. So I cut off one segment, put the car back on its feet, and could see the stop was still sitting on the top of the damper. So I cut another segment off which the gave me a gap of about 30mm betwen stop and damper. But now the back end is sitting too low, and my exhaust is hitting the crosbeam. So, the question is, should I have only cut one segment off, as you are suggesting that the stops actually provide some of the suspension? By the way, I fitted the Mk 4 Golf shorter stops on the front and they have a gap when the car is at rest but the ride height was unaffected. So I'm still confused and looking forward to finding out what I may have done wrong :roll: Tonight & tomorrow morning I am going to refit all original suspension and compare measurements with the new bits.

You will still have the problem of getting the remains of the bolt out of the carrier, but with it off the car you can really grip the bolt stub in a vice and bash the carrier round with a soft faced hammer. I'm pretty sure the part number for the bolts is N0199123 £1.02 each Have fun

That looks pretty good. I keep hearing about 'lowering caps', but have never seen any and can't imagine how they fit unless they are just a smaller (height wise) version of the standard (spring) top cap? But they're not very tall to start with so have I got the wrong end of the stick? Had mine on the ramp again last night and managed to find a bit more exhaust clearance by twisting the main box a bit; this tends to push the outlet pipe up/down depending which way you twist. Unfortunately it still clouts the beam, so looks like I'll have to make up some lifting spacers. The joys of C ownership :D Meanwhile, the VR waits patiently for a new clutch ........

Bout time Jim What with you having 207 on tap an all

Yeah, these can be a bastard to shift. The 8mm spline drive socket is definitely the way to go as you can get some decent purchase on it which you can't do with an allen key. If you do have to cut the heads then I'd tend to agree with H100VW that the clearance will be a bit tight, though not had to so couldn't say for certain. But as you are taking the discs off as well you could undo the bearing nut and move the whole lot away from the hub enough to remove the calliper carrier at the same time. HTH

Welcome mate. Sounds like you got out of bed the right side that day, bargain. Like the guys have said, there's only one answer. Drive it. Look forward to pix or seeing you one day

Cheers guys. The reason I went for the Eibachs is 'cos I only wanted to come down 25/30mm and they seemed to be the only ones with that subtle a drop - everything else seems to be 40mm min. When the suppliers originally (wrongly) sent me a 40 mm set I found I couldn't get the car off the ramp without major interference, and then I couldn't get out the workshop cos the ground rises steeply by the door :shock: so had to put the originals back on. I can understand a front end difference 'tween 4pot and a vr, but I'd have expected the back end to have been ok. So what height H&Rs have you got on 20v turbo? Ho hum. I'll have another look on the ramp tonight and see if I can get the exhaust to sit a bit higher though don't hold out much hope for that. So tell me how do you guys with much lower cars get on with exhaust clearances?

Yay, arrived this morning and read from end to end. Nice one Jeremy, as usual, many thanks your efforts. Like the front cover Jim, fame at last if not fortune :) Real sorry I managed to miss so much of what's been going on this year. RR day at Stealth looked good too, though the vr was poorly (clutch - still waiting in my garage!) then and I was away sailing so couldn't make it anyway.

Hell's teeth will this ever fit right. Now I've cut the bump stops down so that I actually have sprung instead of rubber suspension, the back end has dropped more than I want. Even worse, now the exhaust keeps crashing on the rear beam whenever I hit a half decent bump/hole. Grrrrr Stripped it - again! - and lifted the spring cup circlip up to the top groove on the shock, which has helped a bit but its still catching. Next plan is to get a selection of decent spacer rings made up till I get the height I want. Oddly, the front is perfect. Anyone else had as much fun with Koni T/As and Eibachs on a 16V? On the plus side, with all the practise I've had I could easy get a job in F1.