2cc

bristolbaron, snap, I'm tooling around in the burgundy baby while the beast is in bits - hopefully not for too much longer now. pm me & we can think about date/place maybe

Welcome Adam, your comment says it all. Plenty of posts in here re ABS so should be able to sort that pretty easily. CU somewhere soon no doubt *mod edit - fixed your quote for you - Henny*

Both mine were insured with NU (one fully comp, one tpft), but I recently asked whether I could have em both fully comp and they said yes. And the biggest surprise was it now costs me less than before. Mind you, must bear in mind that I am a greying wrinkly (no, make that distinguished looking) :lol:

Sorry to hear you may have to sell Jim. Hope things work out so's you don't have to. Don't think I've seen ACC about Andy but usually have the eyes skinned - colour?

My clutch and chains replacement job has sort of grown into a bit of an eng bay refurb and last night I decided I had to remove the coolant transfer pipe as well as the oil filter & cooler, the block looks nice in new black paint now. Yeah, you guessed, I broke it :x cos it was stuck in the block, but the good news is my dealer had one in stock :) which I collected this morning. Later I am about to refit the temp sensor housing and discovered it has started to split - :( . But have just called me dealer and that is also in stock - and with all the sealing rings and clips. Wahay :D And cheap too, the transfer pipe (new part no is 021121050C) is £14.51, and the temp sensor block (021121117A) is only £22.37. Also just found the Pressure Regulator on the inlet was split (does it ever end?) so have just ordered one from the local Ford shed - £18 odd + vat and it will be here tomorrow am. Thanks to all who posted details about this item. Pix and a write up will follow eventually...............

Jimbobbalooba, hi man, yep as Andy says I hang out in Trowbridge, so does bigpantsbaby. Not aware of anyone meeting round here, but we could always start something off. What you driving?

Those are looking good Dave, tho have to say I agree with Blue_Joe's thoughts on the edge blending. Had my vr attacked there a couple of yrs ago so would deffo be interested - just can't make up my mind which colour finish would look best. I used to be indecisive but now I'm not so sure :lol:

Hi fla, sorry didn't get round to posting pix of the rears but actually you can't see them till you pull the disc off cos the backplate covers em completely. Just a shame to have to strip it all just to check em. Pretty standard tools, 13, 15 (open), 17 mm, 8mm hex drive tool - comes with a 1/2 inch drive for a t-bar - don't try and use an allen key cos these take some serious undoing and need some proper leverage, 22 mm skt (I think) for rear hub & some new split pins, 30 mm skt for front hub nut & you'll need new ones as they are one off use jobbies but sorry can't tell you what to torque em up to, also suggest get new bolts (4) for the rear caliper carriers as they get pretty manky, a large cross head screwdriver for the front disc set screws & that's about it I reckon. I use a hammer to get the rear hub dust caps off, just tap it gently on the side (you can get just slightly behind it) and keep rotating it and it will ease out as you go. It's all pretty obvious when you strip it down. I didn't say before, but been said on similar threads, to recheck the rear brgs for play after about a week when they'll have bedded in. Have fun, I'll be away till sun night/mon so will look then to see how you got on.

probably Joe, I did say iirc Could go and look at the bag I 'spose

Not glued, it has plastic clips front and rear and its just a tight fit lengthwise (sorry, did that sound rude?)

damn, somewhere else I'll have to visit tonight...........

:shock: :shock: amazing what you learn on here, I'd often wondered what that was

AND a hex drive to get the b****y caliper carrier bolts out - and 4 new ones to refit cos that's always a good idea.

the words a****y retentive spring to mind, but then he does seem to have a penchant for 'rear bias' :lol:

I recently bought a metal one from my dealer, cost about £16, iirc the part no is T1009

steady kev, with all these jobs and new parts you'll be needing to put her on a 'Q' plate soon :lol:

Know what you mean Graham. Tell us what they find - might help someone else later

fla Guessing you haven't done this before so here you go, photo of the front abs rotor. You can see it between the disc back plate and the drive shaft, its the thing with all the square holes in it. As I said, I'm pretty sure you have to remove the brake caliper and carrier, the disc, and then the big nut (its torqued up real tight but can't recall the figure) on the end of the drive shaft to remove the flange. IIRC the rotor clips on to the back of it, pretty obvious when it's in bits. Reverse process to rebuild and torque the nut to the right figure - dealer could tell you if someone on here doesn't. On the rear its a similar task, remove the caliper and carrier - you'll need a hex drive tool to remove the fixing bolts, Halfords or any tool shop do one with a 1/2 inch socket drive. Then remove the grease cap from the centre of the disc, undo the nut and pull the disc off the stub axle. The abs rotor clips into the back of the disc & can be pried off carefully with screwdriver if intend to reuse, or just rip off and fit new one - just a push fit. Make sure you don't get rust & crap in the axle grease & refitting is, as they say, the reverse procedure. Do the nut up till disc hard to turn then back off till the spacer washer behind it can be moved 'relatively easily' side to side with a screwdriver as lever. This is one of those feely things that you get used to with experience but you don't want it too tight or you'll knacker the bearing when driving it. Too loose, and you will be able to feel the bearing rock after fitting the wheel and waggling it side to side (or top to bottom). Good idea to check this before you put the split pin in. HTH.

Do you mean pass side by 'right'? I'd favour the temp sensor housing seal, or the transfer pipe (runs accross front of engint to just behind the alternator) and has outlets to the oil cooler - could be anywhere along there. Try topping her up and running the engine & see if you can spot the leak.. Sounds pretty major so should be pretty obvious - with luck

Think I remember seeing an article in the sprinter about that - if you were a ccgb member I could look it up and tell you :lol:

fla - Just got you a pic of the front rotor as I have a hub off the car, but am at work and can't post it till I get home later. I'm planning to do some work on the beast tomorrow & will take some pix of the rear but can't post em till I get home later tomorrow night if that'll help. The rears you have to take the disc off, the rotors are a push fit in the rear of it; fronts again its fitted on the inner side of the disc, but iirc you have to pull the hub apart to get at it, its definitely not fitted to the disc tho', I've changed loads of those.

I used to run the valver onn P600s and found them very good both for handling and wear. These were discontinued and had to put P6000 on idc. I agree with anyone who has said they are pants. Both handling and wear rate was crap in comparison to the 600. Wouldn't want em on the VR, that's for certain. Just my 2p

Black dash with beige trim? I got grey dash with my beige, or have you changed the trim colour from original? Or were there some odd combinations when they were built?

Yes, I concur he is right with the prices. I changed mine a wee while ago and the real things ain't cheap. But if you want heated mirrors you gotta pay the money.

Hi Roger, Just seen this post. I'm at work right now but have all the part nos & prices at home & will pm you when I get in later. Also have loads of photos of the job - just got to rebuild it now I've finally got the last couple of bits I needed. There are no doom stories with this, its real easy Rgds Chris