2cc

Well the strip down to discover the cause of the green beast's chattering clutch is coming on. Good job I’m in no rush and I have a nice warm shed to work in as there’s tons of stuff to remove to get at it; place looks like a car boot sale! And getting the gearbox off is a real laugh with only one pair of hands. Thinks – it would be easier for a girly ‘cos they can multi task – no offence ladies :lol: Now I just have to encourage the lower chain cover to part prom the block so I can see how bad things really are. Can’t see the bottom pad yet, but the top one is worn through to the backing plate :shock: , so I’m just in time with that. But, surprisingly, they still run quietly. The chatter was caused by the pivot end of the release arm rubbing on the outer cover of the pressure plate casing. Not sure exactly why that should cause it to rub, but the arm has cracked on both sides and has bent a bit, and the friction plate and bearing are well down to the limit. All of which accounts for the pedal being on the floor! Ordered a pile of new bits from my vag man today: Friction plate Pressure plate Release bearing Release arm Release arm ball pin Release arm retaining spring 3 Eng mtgs (and a bolt) 2 Rubber mtgs for the aux water pump 10 Flywheel bolts Coolant Chain casing sealant Crank oil seal 2 Seals for the temp sensor block Upper chain Lower chain Upper slide Lower slide Upper tensioner pad (Mk4) Lower tensioner & pad Upper tensioner bolt (Mk4) Anyone want to hazard a guess how much? Should get it all on Thursday so I can start the rebuild, but could someone please tell me the torque figures for following: Upper & Lower chain slide bolts Lower tensioner bolt Chain cover bolts Flywheel bolts Temp sensor block bolts (wouldn’t want to crack it would I) Cam cover bolts Inlet manifold joining bolts Cheers guys. I’ve taken loads of pix & will post some up soon. Might even write a ‘how to’ for your pages Dinkus.

Aha, looks like the caps your culprit then. And I used to think the AA were pretty good but this should have been simple stuff for him as its leaking as bad as you say! Still, we all have off days...

Some of us are m8 :lol:

chris you nutter - made me laugh

BUMMER. Feeling 4u m8. Not not not the thing we wanna hear. Know what you mean about diesel Kev, had me doing a schumi, all crossed up :shock: , in the works truck the other day - quite exciting in its way

Glad you came off best; still a bummer spoiling your paint tho'

:lol: :lol: :lol: you guys kill me

Holy s***e I don't think i could sleep nights with my babies surrounded out there in the street like that. Big up to your paint man tho'. Did you escape the wvm's attention? He He Andy/Jim, yeah that was some loud fun wasn't it? Wonder how many heart attacks we are responsible for :lol:

CIPO, have you had any work done on that hub before the noise started? Had similar on my Valver, drives you INSANE doesn't it. Turned out when I checked it all that stealers had distorted the drive flange when fitting new bearing. It doesn't need to be much out of true to cause the pads to rub and produce the squeal, though mine didn't make a noise when braking to a stop. But might be worth a look. A new flange and bearing, courtesy of stealers, fixed it.

IMO the AA man is talking round things. But that said, if you are loing a header tank full in 15 mls I would expect you would be able to detect steam venting (from wherever the leak is) when she's up to temp. It'll come out as steam cos, as the AA man rightly said the coolant will be at pressure and will boil off when escaping to the outside world. Favourites are: hoses, the two plasticky things that join the pipework to the block, the header tank cracked, or the cap itself (I believe it has a pressure relief valve in built but may be wrong on this one). Oh, I'd reconnect the matrix by the way. HTH

kevhaywire wrote and it pops off Is that straight from the Haynes manual of removal techniques then Kev? :lol: Busy today but will attend to breaking it tomorrow Cheers

OK so I'm finally getting down to sorting the clutch and timing chains, but will someone please tell me how to disconnect the big multi-plug on the side of the engine - without breaking it. Be blowed if I can see how it works! Tks

Cheers Hasan, I forgot to mention yesterday that when I try to add http://127.0.0.1 to trusted sites my lappy will only let me enter it in https form; don't know if that's relevant. Tried dumping the firewalls too with no joy. Anyway, I am also beginning to think that the disc has corrupted somewhere along the way which is preventing the boot-up. :( Have to see if I can check it out somewhere else. Thanks

Sigh. I too am having complete lack of joy. The cd used to run ok on an old borrowed laptop so not sure what it was running. I gave it back because I bought a new laptop, with intel celeron and running XP. Initially when I called I tried to load the programme it seemed to be doing the right things but then dislayed the "jrew.exe" fail message. Since then I have de-installed and tried all the tips on this thread, but now when I try to load the programme nothing seems to work. I get the initial window asking me to select a language, which I do and hit ok. The disc spools up then stops and absolutely nothing happens. Anyone got any ideas?

Nice job Ant. Did you get the master cyl problem sorted? Make sure you do all the nuts and bolts up properly this time LOL Look forward to seeing you both (any chance of bringing the avatar out as well :lol: )

Or, looking on the bright side, maybe we'll get some footage of us going over 'em all crossed up a la WRC LOL

Thought you were gonna take that off Jim?

Bummer. Glad you still have her though; imagine if it had just been a gap in the car park.

Just seen this. Fantastic :lol: Probably not his phone tho so some other poor sod will get the bill.

If it was a proper 60's "S" then I'd agree with you Mike; I was there!!. They were awesome in their era. And for anyone else old enough to remember, that rattle from the idler gear on tick over was fantastic.

Fuel pump is a possibility. Mine got tired and gave the symptoms you describe. New one, no probs.

I've used Bath Motor services for some time now; spent lots of money and built up a good rapport. On the whole I'm pretty happy with them. Admittedly, one of their mechs did screw up a front bearing & flange recently but they did fix it for free when I showed 'em it. Or you could try Bath Performance Cars (cheaper than vag). They are v good on the mechanics, just had my tracking and camber reset on the valver and she handles real nice again (I've just got to sort a bit of column play now), but don't know if they have any knowhow on the VR engine. Depends what you want done I suppose.

Dinkus, so is the office gonna fork out for new rubber?

I must get broadband - only took 22 mins to download on dial up. So how did you disable the ABS? Interesting bit of pitching on the front end So how many miles did you take of the tyres then :lol:

Yep, doesn't look as bad as I was expecting. As said above, bit of body shop and probably need all the suspension bits for that side, track rod & rack hopefully ok as the force was outwards rather than 'into' the rack. Sub frame should be ok as its a pretty solid lump. Course we all know about the cost of new vag parts, but shouldn't be a write off by any means from what I can see here. If it means anything, I got away with needing a new wishbone, ball joints etc, 2 wheels (totalled front left and somewhat bent rear left) and geo after hitting a "breeze block" (never did fnd it after - the police happened by and had a look) at about 75 on the motorway some years back in the valver. Thought I was gonna die :shock: :shock: at the time. Good luck