vw rule

Hello there, looks like it's just got the one tab catch that you need to press down, in the centre of the connector block. In your photo the tab catch is underneath facing downwards, in the attched link below the photo shows the full tab catch at the top. Here's a photo in a link I've found off the internet that looks to be the same as yours I think: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/300931451681?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=108&chn=ps&device=c&rlsatarget=&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108&ff19=0 Hope this helps. Si

Hello there, I beleive there is just the one bush for the steering rack, which fits to the left side complete with a U-clamp, the right side i.e (drivers side) of the steering rack is bolted directly to the subframe and has no bush or U-clamp here. Have a look at these photo's in the attached link: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?67353-SOLD-G60-Subframe Hope this helps. Si

Good to hear you've got it sorted :thumbleft: Si

Hello ladies & Gents, as the title really is there a difference in them. Because to me one side is straight and flat and has a tapered edge where the bush goes in (MARKED AS GREEN ARROWS) Then the top side to me has a tube stem with flat edge (MARKED AS BLUE ARROWS) Then just behind that is a slight tapered kink (MARKED AS RED ARROWS) I'm just wanting to double check as I've ordered a left side front suspension arm, but looking at it to me it looks like a right side arm that I've received. Here are some photo's below. [ATTACH=CONFIG]81785[/ATTACH] LOWER TAPERED EDGE [ATTACH=CONFIG]81786[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]81787[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]81788[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]81789[/ATTACH] What do you guys think or am I going mad. Many thanks. Si

Don't know maybe they were given it, or bought it very cheap and just thought, hey that's close enough to how it should be I'll just bolt it up. Just seems so strange how they've left it as it is, if it was done by a exhaust specialist then that's scary. Your engine bay in your photo looks mint, amazing. Si

I think you're going to have to change the exhaust manifold, as it's completely made / routed wrong, hence it melting your gear selector cables. You could try wrapping it in the heat resistant wrap, but to be honest I wouldn't waste my time as the exhaust manifold is just too close to the cables in question. Your best bet is to get hold of a standard manifold & down pipe set up, or to get the correct shaped and routed 4 branch sports manifold made if that's what you want. I wouldn't drive it very far in the state it's in now due to fire risk. Hope this helps and hope you get it sorted very soon. Si

Nice looking car and Colour, that reminds me I've got a set of those wheels somewhere, I am tempted to fit them and take of my street fighters. PS have you found yourself walking past your Corrado and glancing at it, I'm still doing it now after 13 years, lol Si

Another one for AVS Car Parts, bought quite a few things from them, and had no problems so far.

Yeah that's what Mike did at the end of the episode, when they had finished restoring the delorean, they took it to a forum meet on or near a race track I think a few years ago. like you say it would be amazing if Mike does the something with the Corrado. Si

Thank you this is awesome. Thanks again :thumbleft: Si

I remember years ago when Mike Brewer had a TV show called Deals On Wheels, and he was doing a review of the Corrado VR6 I think it was a blue one, there was a guy on the show who wanted to sell the car, and Mike was test driving it and pointing out what things to look out for on the Corrado. Do you know roughly when this new series / episode of Wheeler Dealer will be shown on ordinary TV not sky. I suppose in a year or two ? Si

£80.00 scary that is steep. There are some others on eBay for sale, states genuine VAG item, has the name / logo Corrado stitched into the floor mat (black mats) I think they're selling for £35.00 a set, last time I looked there was 3 left in stock. Si

Hello Sprinter53 I've just sent you a PM. I've also had a look on the internet, and looks like MFG Christian is based in the USA ? Unless I'm looking at the wrong thing. Si

Nice work Goldie, cheers. I've tried to post up some photos as well, but they won't send via my mobile at the moment for some reason. It's amazing really that they're still available after all these years. Thanks Jim for adding these to the suppliers section. Si

Hello there, it could be a relay or bad earth, a bad earth won't allow the relay to function correctly as it needs a good consistent flow of current, which can cause the relay to buzz or click as the circuit is too weak. There's two relays next to one another with the number 53 stamped on them, I think the one on the right is for the horns, the horn relay should be a 4 pin. If you pull the horn relay out you should see it's got 4 connecting pins, and each one has a number stamped under or next to each pin. Pin 1 = power to relay (blue / brown wire) 12v Pin 2 = power to the horns (brown / black wire) 12v here once the horn button is pressed. Pin 3 = earth Pin 4 = from horn button = (once the horn button is pressed it should complete the circuit and horns should sound) All you need to have the horns working is power and an earth, if one of these is missing then the horns won't work. You could unplug the horns and try a fresh new live and earth purely to test them, from a separate battery or use a power probe if you have one. And if the horns work then you know the fault is with the wiring somewhere. Also operate the horn button with one hand, while the other is on the horn relay, as the clicking you're hearing might be coming from the relay ? It's rare but relays can and do burn out. Really you need a multimeter or test light or power probe to find the fault, well these can help anyway. Any clues to where you think this clicking sound is coming from, behind the dash or from the fuse box or from the engine bay ? Hope this helps. Si

Oh well tomorrow it is then, no worries. Just as a back up I've had one sent out to me that came today, I've only recently got in so have just opened the box up now. It was inside a clear bag taped up with loads of bubble rap around it, and loads of shredded cardboard in the box, really packed well. It looks good white primer on the back mirror outer casing, and what looks like grey primer on the oval stem arm, comes complete with the double wiring plug and the black oval rubber base gasket, which has also got Germany stamped on it. It's also got the thick black plastic on the front of the mirror unit, which surounds the mirror glass. The new unit also swivals i.e (you can swival your mirror inwards) same as the orginal. I've also compared it to my mirror on my own Corrado, it does look like the perfect match. But will have to wait and see what Goldie says tomorrow as well. This new mirror looks 100% as it does in the Ebay photo on this companies sale page. But like I say lets wait and see what Goldie thinks also i.e tomorrow. Si

Any news has postman Pat bean yet Goldie? Si

Please let us know what you think to these mirrors Goldie once you've seen the product. Many thanks Si

Also the rear light units are available at Classic Parts. The part numbers and cost are as follows. FOR ALL CORRADO'S Left rear outer light (Indicator, Brake & side with reflector) Part N.o: 535945111 £82.56 euros = to £59.75 Left rear inner light (UK Spec so just reverse no fog) Part N.o: 535945107A £72.10 euros = to £52.16 Left rear inner light (LHD Spec reverse with fog) Part N.o: 535945107 £72.10 euros = to £52.16 Right rear inner light (LHD spec just reverse no fog) Part N.o: 535945108 £72.10 euros = to £52.16 Right rear inner light (UK spec so reverse and fog) Part N.o: 535945108A £69.00 euros = to £52.16 FOR ALL CORRADO'S Right outer rear light (Indicator, Brake & side with reflector) Part N.o: 535945112 £82.56 euros = to £59.75 Hope this helps. Si

The left window regulator is now available at Classic Parts, cost is £208.25 euros = to £150.70 Part number is: 535837401A These were over £300.00 back in 2012 from the main dealer. Hopefully the right window regulator will be available soon. Also the Corrado door skins from Classic Parts were just over £500.00 a side, but I think they've dropped this part now, as the complete doors are now available, well the left door is. Cost is £299.00 euros = to £216.35 Part number is: 535831051AN (Left Corrado Door) Hope this helps. Si

I've just found this on Ebay states they're the original genuine item, N/S i.e left door mirror unit for £36.00 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-VW-Corrado-wing-mirror-RHD-536857501A-/201321722812?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2edfb5b3bc And O/S i.e right door mirror unit for £36.00 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-VW-Corrado-wing-mirror-RHD-536857502A/201321722550?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D30111%26meid%3D4835e5afe7074109a38ec590db1e3f62%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D201321722812&rt=nc But I'm not too sure if they are genuine or copies, plus if early or late as I thought there is a difference in the wiring connector plugs, between early and late mirrors ?? Si

Nice one this is going to be so useful. Thanks again Si

Hello Goldie, I would try and bleed the clutch slave cylinder first just before you remove the gearbox, just to be sure. There's 3 parts to the clutch unit, 1 = clutch pressure plate, 2 = clutch assembly, and 3 = release bearing. (1) Old warn pressure plates can split and brake up which includes the centre springs snapping, or can be warn down to the rivits which then give poor clutch clearence, i.e hard to engage gears. (2) Old warn clutch assembly these can have warped warn surfaces on the disc face, or weak springs or rivits which makes the assembly unit flex too much causing poor clutch performance. (3) The release bearing wears like any other bearing so may become noisy once clutch peddle is raised, or the bearing can wear deep into the pressure springs in the back of the clutch assembly, causing the clutch to have pressure / clearence problems. Or it could be a selector fault with in the gearbox but it does sound like it's clutch related. You know that strong smell you get from braking too hard or for too long, and your brake pads really stink, well it's the same smell when your clutch is burnt out. A test you can do is have your handbrake on plus engine running and select 4th or 5th gear, then let the clutch peddle up and the engine should stall, if the clutch is warn / burn out then the engine won't stall due to the clutch slipping. Plus a load metallic scraping sound with the clutch peddle up could mean a warn release bearing / pressure springs. Things that can be checked / replaced with the gearbox out are: Rear main oil seal. Flywheel surface disc and ring gear. Gearbox diff seals. Input shaft oil seal (this is in the bellhousing, the release bearing slides on a tube flange, the seal is behind this tube flange) Check condition of clutch arm, as they can bend / crack as mentioned all ready. Check small core plug it's about the size of a ten pence piece, fits in the eng block just behind flywheel top left I think. Replace gearbox oil with new if it hasn't been done in a while. Hope this helps. Si

Thanks for donating to the forum top job. Nice one Paul and Jim.

Hello there, I've been looking at a few things on the internet, and looks like quite a few people have had this on their MK3 Golf / Corrado 2.0 8v (ADY) - (2E) as you are having with your Corrado. Right so I take it you are getting fault code 00515 = Hall sensor / cam sensor. 1) Faulty Hall sensor 2) wiring fault 3) Faulty crank sensor 4) Distributor is a tooth out 5) Cam timing is out by a tooth 6) Fault with ECU (or not set to normal setting ?) I would go back to the beginning and start again and check what was done and how, clearly something isn't right. To remove any distributor you should always have the engine timed up to TDC = Top Dead Centre, double check timing marks are inline on flywheel, crank pulley, and camshaft pulley, once the engine is correctly timed up the rotor arm should now be pointing to number one contact on the distributor cap, or be inline with the cut out mark on the top edge of the distributor housing (normally facing the engine block) Once all this is correctly lined up you can then remove / refit the distributor = (it is easy to have the distributor out by a tooth due to it being gear driven) On the 16v Corrado / MK3 Golf engines the distributor is driven by the camshaft and locates into a half moon notch in the back of the cam, so you can't really get it wrong, but on the 8v engines like I say the distributor is gear driven the teeth are roughly at 45 degree angle. The ignition timing should be checked / adjusted using a timing gun when ever the distributor has been refitted. The firing order should be 1,3,4.2 with number 1 cylinder being the cam pulley side i.e (drivers side) plus I think the distributor rotates clockwise on the 8v engine. Any of these errors will keep brining up the fault code 00515 Hope this helps. Si