flusted

Its a mk3 gti 1! andy im sure that will be fine!|

Mate, just remove the boost return pipe and get a kit from g-werks, approx £35. Comes with blank for charger and filter for oil breather. Gives the dumpvalve ppptttiiissssshhhhh but you also get an awesome woooosh on acceleration that you will never get close to with a turbo. That should answer you question

I forgot to update this thread, since fitting the g60 box to mine, its alot better, 3rd goes on for ever! Still wheels spins but no where near asd bad of dangerous

i thought you had to use the 5stud wishbone,roll bar and ball joint as the balljoint is different? obviously not :lol:

i didnt realise he was running a cnc head?

As i said before, it will never be as good as the real thing, my heatsheild is badly cut not laser cut etc and i the cost of buying all the bits new must be very high

first real injury for me in 14years of playin! The second inlet adaptor i got off a member on here

his spec is in his signiture, standard bottom end,big valve head,manifold etc

I done my leg playing roller hockey! the first cast they fitted rubbed, so i went back and had another fitted which also rubbed so i took a hacksaw and took 2" off the bottom, fits a treat now :lol: Now i just need to work out how to mod it :lol: Get the hose as low down as poss and in direct airflow, air is coldest approx 6" from floor

nope

mikeg60 is pushin 251bhp

I cant drive it for another week till the cast is taken off my leg :cry: . Fittin a cold feed is different on my car as i have a rs bumper

Im am no way saying this is better than a swg jobby its just i like to make my own stuff with whatever is in my shed :lol: I already had a jabbasport induction kit and heat shield and a spare alloy inlet adaptor so thought id make a twin inlet. First i added a cold feed through the cc hole using a bit of landrover airbox pipe 8) Then trim the heatshield Then using some more flexi ducting (think it was for the airvents in the dash of some car :oops: ) i routed the second inlet onto a renault 5 turbo jr cone filter which is the same brand as the jabba 1. All the tubing is 3" to the filter and the 3" stainless pipe is the tailpipe i cut off my mates spare cossie 4x4 exhaust (he doesnt know yet :oops: ) heres the finished artical The second filter cost me £20 from ebay, £6 for jubilees, piping was free and the inlet adaptor was £10 so a totalof £36 8) What do you think?

good top tip!

The washer is sposed to be there, just remove king lead/coil lead to prime

thought its better to use throttlebodies instead of carbs?

silencer kit = woofter

you really need a chip n pulley, this can give upto 20-30ish bhp alone and really makes a difference

the ecu is the ignition module

The chip will need re-writing to suit tho

Im just waiting on a idler wheel from darren to make my belt work again. Solid tensioner arrived today and im guna space the alternator pulley out 3mm aswell

What engine

I flowed my old 50mm one, you prob wont feel any difference. The head to manifold gaskets are the same whether 42mm or 50mm

the non gtis dont use aero blades do they?

do i aboost leak test, spray soapy water on all joins and then shut dumpvalve linkage for 2 secs and look for bubbles. Think theres a guide in the wiki