davidwort's 16v - looking a bit shinier

[Supercharged 2]

What about the W8 light Dave -

 

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=40735&start=45

[davidwort 0]

What about the W8 light Dave -

 

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=40735&start=45

 

yeah, I'd forgotten about that, not sure if it would be an issue having a non-sunroof car though?

and I don't think it would throw enough light to see what's in the centre cubby hole, I guess you get a nice glow on the whole dash centre unit though from the passat downlights.

I'd really like to have a stab at the door pulls and I've got an A6 illuminated heater vent too, keep meaning to see if I can graft the vent thumbwheel into the corrado vent as the illumination on that is neat, sort of: but illuminated

[Supercharged 2]

Yeah the Audi interior lighting is amazing...

 

The W8 light doesn't include a sunroof switch so would be perfect, especially as it's a late car as if you had a sunroof you'd have to fit an early motor cover and switch

[davidwort 0]

For anyone thinking about a high level 3rd rear brake light, this one is suitably cheap and nasty but as a quick solution it actually fits and works really well for a fiver delivered I thought it was worth a go.

I'll add a pic of it fitted soon, I intended to have a go at setting it into the tailgate trim but it's not really suitable for that, but stuck to the screen as it's intended to fit it looks fine, it's pretty slim and you can't see it in the rear view mirror at all as it doesn't drop below the rear headlining and trim level. It's only a cm deep, doesn't look bad at all fitted and for piece of mind on a daily driver especially commuting I think it was a pretty good investment.

 

led-brake-light.jpg[/attachment:1163y81r]

 

e-bay LED brake light

[davidwort 0]

this saturday I mostly serviced the spoiler mechanism on the 8v, plus a bit a a gearbox oil top up

 

a squeak had started when the spoiler came to rest so I thought I'd strip out the drive cables and clean and re-grease

the drive cables and their metal tubes were pretty grubby so with a bit of a wipe and a smear of grease and a general clean of everything including the main spoiler support seals and support arms it all works more smoothly now.

A definite 'preventative maintenance' job

 

edit: OK reverse order for the pics, getting the hand of the new forum :)

 

more pics over the page -->

Edited February 6, 2011 by davidwort

[davidwort 0]

here's more pics:

[davidwort 0]

Been putting this off for ages, an alarm and immobiliser or two in it's lifespan and the old 8v's got a few electrical gemlins.

It's never operated the central locking so I thought I'd investigate.

Checked out the drivers door handle first, there's a loom join for the live feed and switched (lock and unlock) feeds inside the door under the vacuum locking valve and under the dash above the fuse box.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]46457[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]46458[/ATTACH]

so first I checked continuity when handle lock is operated in lock and unlock positions, testing from the common live (red) to the switched wires in turn showed the handle switch and short length of loom was OK. ('1.' on the multimeter is no circuit 0.00 shows circuit, using the 20K ohms setting)

 

no problem with the handle and loom, so went to the next section, from the other half of the connector block in the door to the connection point above the fuse box (pig to get at)

[ATTACH=CONFIG]46459[/ATTACH]at this point no continuity :( traced it back and although I thought the obvious place would be a break in the door hinge area (always flexing), eventually I found this:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]46460[/ATTACH]blue arrow points to a totally corroded join in the original loom where the feed to the connector block splits to provide a feed to the vac valve position switch - yuck.

Set to and soldered that up, cutting back to sound wire and adding a new short length then insulating.

 

Now I can wind up the driver window with the driver (or passenger) lock, yay

 

.. but wait a minute... still no central locking going on from either door, fuel flap and tailgate not locking either :scratch:

 

I've never got to grips with the Corrado window and locking electrics (my early 16v has CL but dealer fit elec windows so no control box.

 

It seems the C's with factory elec windows (control box in offside rear Q panel) have a linked but separate (and different) CL pump and control unit, probably changed in 1992 when the electrics got a minor update (sunroof auto closing etc).

So typical, can't use my 1990 16v CL pump and control to check out the 8v one.

There's 12v permanent live to the CL pump/control unit and it gets separate 12v switching feeds when the door locks are operated, but no sucking or blowing occurs :)

 

Anyone got any ideas? all the units, locks in door fuel flap etc, lock and unlock fine if I suck/blow on the vac output from the control unit (in boot), must be the unit I guess.

Edited April 25, 2011 by davidwort

[Wild-Animal 0]

Hey, I popped the cover of the back of my central locking pump when mine was not working, the little plastic tags hold it on, and I could see moisture was sitting on the circuit board I presume that was why mine had stopped working. So I replaced the unit with a second hand unit it could be worth a looksy . Also the foam it was sitting in was damp so I dried it out and wrapped it in a clear polly bag to prevent moisture reappearing.

[davidwort 0]

yeah, I popped the unit apart, no obvious signs of damage inside, a few surface spots around some of the tracks but nothing that looked like moisture had affected it at any time, I'm pretty sure it's dead, hopefully try to test it on someone else's car before buying a new one, or try someone else's on mine.

Anyone else had them go bad and what were the symptoms? It doesn't click, strain, anything, and yet has power and gets live switching feeds from the doors.

[dragon green 5]

I had one reconditioned,£30 and a years guarantee !

The early ones are discontinued, and according to my parts guy the newer ones won't fit !

[davidwort 0]

yeah the late ones have a slightly different plug (diff lugs on it, but same no. of pins) and from what I can see the late one has one extra pin wired in (one blank as opposed to two blanks on the early cars)

I reckon this is just for triggering sunroof closure which was not a feature on the early cars.

The units look so similar I bet they can be interchanged, there are plenty of spares around as mk3's use the same part no as the late corrado (early car is passat part), I'd just like to test my old one first.

[dragon green 5]

I could send you a known good one to try ? Unless there is anyone closer

It's no problem for me to post it !

[davidwort 0]

thanks for the offer, I'm hoping I can find someone nearer first, just to quickly try a swap as it's only one nut holding it down under the carpet :)

if I draw a blank ther I might come back to you, cheers again.

[davidwort 0]

OK, pretty sure my CL unit is stuffed, will keep an eye out for a mk3 golf one as it's the 1H0 part.

 

On a better note I finally sorted the ignition timing/idle issues on the 8v.

It's a PITA to do, but seems pretty critical that you get the base ignition timing right on these damn 2E/digifant engines regardless of the fact that the ECU actually controls all of the advance and timing unlike the simpler 16v system.

You really do need to follow a set number of steps, no idle screw or mixture screw or anything and you don't want to alter the throttle stop as it's factory set (unless someone's already meddled with it)

 

1. clear any faults

2. run ISV, throttle pos sensor cycles using vag com or a suitable diagnosic computer

[ATTACH=CONFIG]46516[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]46517[/ATTACH]

3. remove and block off breather pipes

4. run car to temp

5. remove water temp sensor plug

6. run engine at 2-2,500 rpm

7. check timing with strobe, if it's on 6/7 deg fine, if not alter dizzy

8. plug water temp connector back on, revs will rise a fair bit and timing should advance by 20 odd degrees

9. job done, unblock and reconnect hoses etc.

 

car now pulls smoothly from no throttle and revs drop to a nice smooth low 800 or so rpm at idle, before I had smooth running but the idle would hang at about 1100 and the isv would struggle to bring it down to 900 after about 10 secs.

Edited April 28, 2011 by davidwort

[davidwort 0]

Gave the old girl a good clean inside and out today and couldn't resist finding some more jobs to do while the weather was nice.

Front and rear seats out, all carpets up and half a ton of underlay/soundproofing added to the driver and passenger footwells, rear footwells, under rear seat and in the boot, should quiet things down a bit on the motorway, already done stick-on sound deadening inside the front doors rear panels and on other bare metal under the floors, given the 8v engine plus the standard exhaust and suspension, this should be one quiet Corrado :)

In the process I noticed the footrest was bust at the top, so with a small bodge using a bent kitchen cupboard securing bracket all was made well.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]46569[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]46568[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]46570[/ATTACH]

 

looking clean and tidy inside

[ATTACH=CONFIG]46571[/ATTACH]

 

cutting out soundproofing for boot floor, under the carpet.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]46566[/ATTACH]

 

and lastly, anyone know what this is? two relays and two 30A fuses behind the glove box :scratch:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]46567[/ATTACH]

 

oh, one other thing, the CL pump is goosed, cheers for the swap and test Jim :)

Edited May 2, 2011 by davidwort

[Yandards 0]

ABS relays behind the glovebox.

 

Was going to suggest the CL unit as the odds on both door locks failing are pretty slim but you know that now anyway!

 

Waiting to see what the new VR is like as that has had a good attack with extra sound deadening material, although I still maintain most of the noise in a Corrado comes from the rear bench and rear arch area not the front, the self adhesive sound deadening foam does seem to make quite a difference when tap tested though.

[davidwort 0]

yeah, I've done both cars rear quarters with stick on panel deadening and felt and it makes a big difference, rear bench really benefits if you have a noisy exhaust too, I need a bit more behind the dash now (up high on the bulkhead) but the run to work this morning shows it's a lot better, only downside is more wind noise is noticable now the road noise is lower :lol:

[davidwort 0]

In my never ending quest to keep everything on the old daily runner working, I cleaned the mirror switch contacts today and noticed this:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]47036[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]47037[/ATTACH]

made me :)

Edited May 28, 2011 by davidwort

[Yandards 0]

In my never ending quest to keep everything on the old daily runner working, I cleaned the mirror switch contacts today and noticed this:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]47036[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]47037[/ATTACH]

made me :)

 

Heh, guess they need to ID them in the factory that made the electric mirror switch PCBs for VW.

 

Had a mega geek out last night with reido whilst I was showing him the level of detail in the Corrado in Forza 3, we spotted the instrument surround cover caps are missing as you can see the screws and the steering column trim has a gap where it joins! Talk about accurate modelling!

 

Still couldn't work out what market the car came from though as it has knee bar, speedo is in km/h, no side repeaters in the front wings or the front bumper and the rear parcel shelf does not match interior leather (black shelf, light grey interior) and thats before the mystery of the black headlining. I guess the car they used to scan for the game was not as original as it should have been.

[davidwort 0]

8v MOT ran out 2 weeks ago :lol:

To be fair I was on holiday and it's the first time I've needed to put one on this car (can't believe I've had it for nearly a year)

Friday is D-day, front right abs sensor needed, fault scan pointed to that and a quick test spinning the wheel with a multimeter across it showed it is indeed dead.

More seriously I'm pretty sure it will fail on emissions, think a new CAT is going to be required, ironically it's set to fail on the two items the 16v doesn't have, ABS and a CAT.

[davidwort 0]

well the CAT was shot, ECP came up with a new cat for 47 quid trade :lol: it did the job, put it on this morning and it flew through the retest, 9 quid abs sensor and I'm sorted, at least I've got another 12 months ticket on it :)

The old cat was good for a chuckle, was the original VAG one and had managed 17 years which I doubt the new pattern one will, but it was well clogged, could see no daylight through it at all, should help with power and economy a little now I reckon.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]47249[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]47246[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]47247[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]47248[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]47250[/ATTACH]

[Supercharged 2]

47 quid??? You can weigh a cat in for around £100 I was told!

[davidwort 0]

Depends on the type I think, the original vag one is probably full of precious metals, maybe worth a little scrap, the Ecp one is made from cheese I reckon, still its working spot on.

[davidwort 0]

just fitted a new rear engine mount on the 8v, smooth or what?

apart from being squashed 1/2 cm lower than the new one (off the car) there didn't seem much difference in movement between the two, but on the road all of the vibration and judder I had under hard acceleration (well as hard as you can get in an 8v) has gone, and it just feels smoother and quieter all the time, very glad I changed that :)

[davidwort 0]

Got round to taking a couple of pics of the surface mount LED panel fitted into the main interior light fitting, e-bay £2 job with 48 small surface mount LEDs.

The LED bulbs that directly replace the 10W 42mm festoon bulb are just not up to the job, not enough light output, I tried one with two supposedly 'superbright' 1W LEDs and although they are bright, the light output is not enough, more like a 5W festoon so that's been relegated to the boot light where the white light it gives is an improvement on the glowing yellow old one.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]51458[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]51459[/ATTACH]

The LED panel however is very good, bent it into a 'V' to fit in the unit and distribute the light a bit better, the light is very bright and much whiter than the conventional bulbs, hard to take a representative pic of how it looks, but these give an idea.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]51455[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]51456[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]51457[/ATTACH]