G60 owners ...please read this.

[Tempest 0]

Good work, Darren. Just sent my German contact to investigate his local dealer, so if more are needed, I am over in Germany visiting my mate next weekend and will collect the bolts.

 

Tempest

[Tempest 0]

OK, as my Dad has arrived from germany a few days ago with said bolt and washer, I had an attempt at changing the G60 crankshaft 12-point bolt, my Dad pushing the brakes like mad, and the crankshaft still spinning, actually driving the drive shaft on the right hand side (where the bolt is located, the drive shaft spinning inside of the CV joint, as the brake disk was held tight by my Dad pushung the brakes (wheel off on that side too for easier clearance. I then stuck a screw-driver into the flywheel, that stopped the crank from spinning, but didi I get that bolt out? Nope, not with any breaker bar that I lying around, as part of my pressure went into moving the engine (at least the mounts are OK :lol:

 

So, short of me going to a garage where they have direct-drive air-powered ratchets, thereby applying the torque directly to the bolt rather than via breaker bars etc. what other ideas have you guys got? No, I don't have a compressor with air-ratchet ...

 

I want to get the job done tomorrow, as it's still a bank holiday.

 

Tempest

[andycowuk 0]

Me or my mate couldnt get it, but half the battle was we were using the brakes method - so about 1/4 a turn was used to wind up the gearbox and clutch springs - everyone one else experienced this?

 

Are we sure that using a screwdriver on the flywheel is safe? The ring gear isnt supposed to take that much torque!

[Tempest 0]

Had a garage do mine in the end. Success at first, as their air impact gun got the old bolt off in less than 5 seconds, but that's where things went pearshaped.

 

The tension of the other 2 belts on their relevant pulleys apparently had dislodged the crankshaft pulley (all 3 pulleys plus vibration dampener are to all intents and purposes one unit), so that they couldn't get it back on straight (you could tell as a 22mm socket wouldn't go in any more). They then tried to undo the 4 Allen head bolts holding said pulley assembly together and rounded 2 off, then decided to take the whole assembly off incl. timing belt, reinserted the whole thing, went on straight this time (after having taken off the tension from the V-belt and polyribbed belt), tightened up the lot with the new DX bolt and washer, ... cost me 3 hours labour :angry:. They allegedly only charged me 1.5 hours. Still, they could have then actually changed the cambelt and tensioner while they were at it, I suppose.

 

Tempest

[olly elworthy 0]

Had a garage do mine in the end. Success at first, as their air impact gun got the old bolt off in less than 5 seconds, but that's where things went pearshaped.

 

The tension of the other 2 belts on their relevant pulleys apparently had dislodged the crankshaft pulley (all 3 pulleys plus vibration dampener are to all intents and purposes one unit), so that they couldn't get it back on straight (you could tell as a 22mm socket wouldn't go in any more). They then tried to undo the 4 Allen head bolts holding said pulley assembly together and rounded 2 off, then decided to take the whole assembly off incl. timing belt, reinserted the whole thing, went on straight this time (after having taken off the tension from the V-belt and polyribbed belt), tightened up the lot with the new DX bolt and washer, ... cost me 3 hours labour :angry:. They allegedly only charged me 1.5 hours. Still, they could have then actually changed the cambelt and tensioner while they were at it, I suppose.

 

Tempest

 

pretty obvious that this would happen you should always loosen off the serpentine belt tension and the power steering pump tension before removing the bolt, :cuckoo:

[gibber 0]

I ordered my bolt and washer from the stealers on thursday last week and got it friday no problems!

 

Boy thats a big washer!

[Riley 0]

Just thought id bump this up with part numbers as im currently working on a m8's mk2 G60:

 

Head off,replacing cambelt/tensioner/all top end gaskets/repairing a broken (maybe 2) exhaust manifold studs/replacing valve stem seals/and the new mk1 gti crank bolt and washer... :!:

 

Anyway,part numbers:

 

Mk1 gti crank bolt:N 040 1064

Mk1 gti crank bolt washer:068 105 193A

 

You may want to double check the numbers as my etka isn't working properly...

 

Neil.

[peteTDI 0]

will this bolt snap if its never been undone before or is if you/someone reuses the old one it snaps? as being a strech bolt it will need replacing once undone anyway

[Dazz_G60_Wales 0]

This has just happened to me doing 75 mph down the M4.

Wish I had seen this first maybe it needs stickying so all will see first !!

[a98pmalcolm 0]

my bolt came undun and screwed up the hole crank!!! cost me just under £1k!! so i got a custom bolt on there!!! this is such a pain with the G60 happens to all of them!!

[DiTch 0]

scirocco gtx 8v has the dx engine find one find your bolt..... so are us 16v boys safe then??

[saysomestuff 0]

scirocco gtx 8v has the dx engine find one find your bolt..... so are us 16v boys safe then??

 

Nope, my crank sprocket sheared its key, no doubt due to the bolt working loose over time.

[DiTch 0]

poo! ............ il check it out

[g60ff 0]

I've just managed to get my crank bolt out, took a big breaker bar and bit of scaffold tube for leverage but it's finally out!

 

Question is, there's no washer on the original, should there be and should i put the new one in that i've got as the bolts are the same length?

[Supercharged 2]

The original one is shouldered - the washer on the new one should have them the same effective thread length so yes

[Dazz_G60_Wales 0]

Just an update-just got the car back and there was no damaged caused,think

I must be one of the lucky ones as said before I was doing 75 mph and was sure it was f***ked.

[Riley 0]

Just a note for everyone...

 

80nm torque setting for the mk1 gti bolt

Dont dare thinking about these being tightened upto 200nm!

 

Neil.

[Jay2 0]

Went to the Stealers a few weeks ago, both parts back in stock and about £4 for the bolt and washer.

 

Added to my list for next visit to garage.

 

Cheers for warning.

[Dub Style 0]

What are the symptoms when this bolt breaks does the car not run at all? or will it run and becuase its jumped a few teeth run like shit?

[davidwort 0]

Just to add to this thread, although not a common problem on 16v engines, the crank bolt can cause problems if it has been replaced at any time in the car's life. Occasionaly a garage or owner will mistakenly remove this bolt when doing a cambelt change, particularly if the v-belt pulley gets siezed onto the cam belt/crank pulley, and then either incorrectly torque it up again or re-use a stretch bolt.

In this instance, rather than snapping the bolt, it will work loose, the keyway and key will then get damaged as the crank pulley vibrates.

The end of the crank can be re-surfaced 'in-situ' with the right VW tool and a new pulley should fix the problem, however too much damage would require a new crank and complete engine rebuild ££££

If you're really paranoid you can mark the bolt head against the inner part of the pulley and regularly check the marks are still aligned (e.g. when you check your tyre pressures) along the lines of those yellow arrow tags they put on lorry wheelbolts!

To get the correct torque on these bolts I believe you are not supposed to use threadlock, but just lightly oil the threads of the new bolt (much the same way as headbolts come supplied), although this may apply to the stretch bolt version.

[sim0n_parker 0]

rang up today and orderd mine, cost me 2pound for the bolt and 90p for the washer, will be getting them tomorrow,

also so i have to tighten these up to 80NM??

[DOGG 0]

Mine went twice in a week first time was on way home from work, second time was faulty bolt supplied by VW. Wrecked the thrust face of the key way, so I had to dowel the bottom pulley to the crank. Been fine since touch wood! Thanks to Darren for all his help despite him just about to go on holiday.

[sim0n_parker 0]

so then what is the actual torque setting for the DX replacment bolt??

[ninoG60 0]

mine was done up to 80nm plus a little nip, bout 85ish

not the 200 nm for the standard bolt cos reckon it would shear

threadlocked too :D

[Rob Heath 0]

Did mine yeasterday whilst fittin the toothed belt set up. I knew it would be tight, so i got the 110v 1/2" drive impact gun on it and it wouldnt shift anywhere :shock: .....so i had to get the big 3/4" impact gun out......she soon came out :D

 

Tightened it up to 60lb/ft, wasnt really sure, but i remember 80nm was stuck in my head

 

To convert lb/ft into nm:

 

lb/ft x 1.5= nm

 

So workin with that, 53.333lb/ft = 80nm (So i guess i slightly overtightened mine, but didnt have a computer in my dads workshop so couldnt double check the figures)

 

Hope this helps to those who's torque wrenches use lb/ft