Yandards 0 Posted April 5, 2010 Well of you turn upto a show this will make you a f***ing hero lol. Is your throttle cable fraying in the sleeving as mine felt similar on throttle release lile it was sticking, well it was sticking and holding the revs slightly near idle and eased off as it freed itself but sometimes needing me to physically pull the pedal back with my foot. It's a new VR6 cable so should be ok, I need to have a look at the pedal end but it may just be that as both the TB and pedal have not been used in a while they need a spot of lube, same with the bonnet release cable/latches. Checked the BTS, engine air temp sensor and earth points yesterday, they are all within the limits so I will re-run the initial set-up tomorrow to try to sort the cold start idle out. ISV seems a little dodgy so I am going to swap that over with a new spare one just to confirm correct operation prior to the set-up. Will have an MOT pass or fail by this time on Wednesday and getting a little nervous now. Assuming an MOT pass I still need to fabricate the fuel rail wiring loom holder, ISV bracket, get a male/female plug for the radiator fan and a selection of various clips to hold pipes and cables in the OEM way. Oh and run it in :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
craigowl 0 Posted April 5, 2010 Good luck with the MOT! :bounce2: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OSV 0 Posted April 5, 2010 Love a well engineered OE looking bay with no gaudy colours,chrome or polish. Hi spec but low key :salute: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtytorque 0 Posted April 5, 2010 good luck with the MOT. You can really see all the time and work in that engine bay now. Good things to those that wait as they say. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yandards 0 Posted April 6, 2010 Final MOT pre-checks finished this morning, re-set the basic engine settings so it now finally advances probably when cold and the CO2 is on the money at 0.7% according to my gas annalyser. Bonnet release cable is finally working ok again, cut the extra bit that comes with the new battery clamps and fitted that and checked both the radiator fan run-on circuit and BTS operating temperature were working ok. Coolant temperature is still high, I had 105 degrees indicated during the basic engine setting phase, I am not sure if the gauge temp sender is working within limits as the radiator fan switch is kicking in at 95 degrees like it should and turning off again. I would not expect a variation of 10 degrees + between the gauge sender and the radiator. Throttle cable is resolved, seems the VR6 cable has a slight moulding ridge at the base of the bullet moulding at the pedal end, this was getting stuck on the edge of the plastic tube that travels through the bulkhead. A little bit of light fileing and it now slides in and out without sticking. I seem to get the same sort of pedal feel that I was getting with this cable in other VR6s, comparing my new G60 throttle cable I need to fit the G60 bullet is smooth - both the G60 and VR one are/were brand new VAG items. Everything else feels pretty good aside from the brake pedal, if I am going to get a fail it will be on the brakes but I will be making some heavy use of the pedal on the way to the testing station. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted April 6, 2010 How old is the fan thermoswitch mate - do you have another? That said it may just settle down, newly built engine and all that plus could be some air pockets in the system. Brakes - they only have to 'work' but rears are always close to fail if you still have the MK2 style calipers - could drive it with the handbrake slightly on to clean the discs as the rears take ages unless you have MKIV calipers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
big ben 10 Posted April 6, 2010 your bay is looking MINT !!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yandards 0 Posted April 7, 2010 MOT results are: Advisorys for: Brake pipe corrosion in engine bay on bulkhead O/S/R wheel bearing has slight play N/S/R wheel bearing has slight play All brake discs corroded on inside and a pass Taxing it today then I need to get the running in period done and dusted, I suspect the knock sensor mounting location is pulling the timing back as it felt a little flat on the way back from the MOT. I do have a plan to sort that though.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
big ben 10 Posted April 7, 2010 sounds good to me, bet your chuffed!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Walesy 0 Posted April 7, 2010 Fair play mate that's a lovely looking install :salute: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alex_G60_Fanatic 0 Posted April 7, 2010 and a pass was there ever any doubt? :salute: congrats Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
craigowl 0 Posted April 7, 2010 Great! Those advisories about brake pipes and particularly discs were nearly always there until I had most of pipes renewed. My cynical view on the powers that be's "discs corroded" ? "Shock, horror - iron-based material is rusting when it goes outdoors and gets wet! - the apocalypse is nigh!" :lol: What a bunch of tedious bureaucrats. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mrbeige 0 Posted April 7, 2010 Nice work Yan! MOT testers always say that about rear wheel bearings. I'm sure half of them don't know that they are taper fit. Get driving it :) 8) :norty: :nuts: :salute: :cheers: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swiftkid 1 Posted April 7, 2010 looks soo tidy and oem! fantastic work put into it, must be well happy with that! and first time as well!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dukest 0 Posted April 7, 2010 congrats Yan, great news Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevej 0 Posted April 8, 2010 congratulations ! it must be a great feeling having invested so much time and thought etc, into putting this together. a bit off track, but any info on the wiper motor cover that you have on this ? cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CazzaVR 0 Posted April 8, 2010 Well done, Yan. Those advisories are all easily sorted too :) :clap: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted April 8, 2010 a bit off track, but any info on the wiper motor cover that you have on this ? cheers It's from a Passat of the same era - still available new from VW Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mattnorgrove 0 Posted April 8, 2010 Fantastic news Yan!! All the hard work has finally paid off! What shows are we likely to see this at this year? Would love a closer look round it! 8) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CazzaVR 0 Posted April 8, 2010 a bit off track, but any info on the wiper motor cover that you have on this ? cheers It's from a Passat of the same era - still available new from VW Anyone got a part no? Can't find it in Vagcat :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted April 8, 2010 3A2 955 128 - £6 ish from TPS Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CazzaVR 0 Posted April 8, 2010 3A2 955 128 - £6 ish from TPS :salute: Thanks Steve! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yandards 0 Posted April 8, 2010 Fantastic news Yan!! All the hard work has finally paid off! What shows are we likely to see this at this year? Would love a closer look round it! 8) First of all thanks for all the great comments, it's nice to see it (nearly) finished finally. Just looking at a run to BVF this year, no plans to do any other shows or trips as yet. Been doing some running in mileage and so far so good, coolant temps seem to be creeping down with more miles and the oil temp is showing 76 degrees on longer runs at 60mph. Had the revs up to 4k and I don't plan on going past there for now, up until 3k rpm the engine is quiet and then from 3k-4k is starts to build some serious induction noise. I have unfortunately run into classic Digipants management where it can't decide if you want to accelerate of decelerate so I have decided to go aftermarket management. I figure I would be spending £300-£400 on mapping Digi and I would rather spend that on a management system that works consistantly. Looking at an Adaptronic ECU as it allows me to keep the ISV and knock sensors etc and is designed to support FI. As for longer term stuff, I consider this engine to be the development block, I want to refine the design over the next couple of years and then build another core block with silly internals and higher compression ratios. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtytorque 0 Posted April 8, 2010 I figure I would be spending £300-£400 on mapping Digi and I would rather spend that on a management system that works consistantly. Looking at an Adaptronic ECU as it allows me to keep the ISV and knock sensors etc and is designed to support FI. Been waiting to hear you say that mate.They need "tuning". Aftermarket ecu will give you the flexibility that you need.Rolling road time will still be beneficial but I don't think you can beat road tuning for real driveability. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yandards 0 Posted April 9, 2010 More running in miles today, trying not to bang too many on at once so I can monitor any oil consumption etc. On my run home from work on Wednesday night I was alarmed by the very yellow lights and lack of battery volts on the gauge, with the main beam on I was only getting a rubbish 10.4V which is useless. So I went for the main earth strap to the engine and gave it a good file to get all the crud off it, lo and behold my battery volts are now working as expected (initial 13V+ and gradually coming down to 12.2Vs during running. As an added bonus my coolant gauge is now reading correctly so the coolant temperature problem I though I had is not there. Again on runs I am seeing around 80 degrees of coolant temp and this now matches the oil temp within a few degrees C as you would expect. Only downside is the basic setting procedure needs re-doing given the ECU etc were probably under volts when I did the last set-up, at least a minor fix has sorted the problem with ease. Driving today it feels really good, still keeping it under 4k and only using the smaller throttle butterfly, but it pulls strongly through the gears and I am loving the induction noise starting to build from 3k up. Brakes are still pretty nasty but gradually improving. I will be ordering the E1280s Adaptronic ECU shortly as I have had the quote back from the UK distributor, I will report back on how that progresses over time. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites